Jacking up an AU

[Polyal]

I know this will sound odd but if I have a 2.5t hydraulic jack, I usually place it just behind the front wheels to lift then insert axle stands.

Problem is that the jack has a circular face/contact and sometimes to make it flush I have to be at a large angle to still squeeze the stands in.

Can I lift front the front straight up underneath the k frame?

I can do it my old way but if I can go straight from the front it will be a lot less stuffing about.

[Uncle_Ken]

I would like to know the answer as well. I've got the stands but where is the best place?
UK

[mcfly94]

Big block of wood on k frame to spread load
Rear I do individually on rear control arms closest to front mounting mounds as exhaust goes under diff

[AUwindsor]

I always lift my AUs from the front steel crossmember, which is under the radiator, not via the alloy one further back which the engine/steering rack/lower control arms mount to.

The AU-BA etc don't have a one peice steel K-frame like the older cars, rather it is 2 separate crossmembers, the steel one at the very front of the engine bay, and the mid one which is made of cast aluminium.

The steel one infront seems much more sturdy. Ive had no issues lifting from there with a 3 tonne jack, and getting the car up high. You don't want to be cracking the aluminium crossmember, I doubt it would, but I prefer using the front steel one.

[Bushbasher]

I always jack from the flat frame section just behind the front wheel, with my trolley jack. It's the same spot that you put the lift pad on a 2 poster hoist. I figure if it's strong enough to take 35%+ the weight of the car completely off the ground it's strong enough to take an average trolley jack lift, which would be considerably less.

[Bill M]

I lift my AU like Bushbasher does.
I had a conversation with a workshop manager who mentioned that the aluminum alloy cross-member was known to bend when used as a jacking point.
cheers
Bill.

[Polyal]

Originally Posted by Bushbasher

I always jack from the flat frame section just behind the front wheel, with my trolley jack. It's the same spot that you put the lift pad on a 2 poster hoist. I figure if it's strong enough to take 35%+ the weight of the car completely off the ground it's strong enough to take an average trolley jack lift, which would be considerably less.

I think that's what I do but its a huge pain to get the axle stand and its footprint in between the jack and the tyre.

[Bushbasher]

Why would you try and squeeze it in that way ? Why not just slide it in from the front. Or just jack it up, take the wheel off and then slide the stand in through the wheel well around the disc.

[Polyal]

Because I'm to lazy to take the wheels off when servicing it...no need too.

[Bushbasher]

If it's for servicing, to drain the oil and change the filter, just drive it up on ramps then.

[Uncle_Ken]

Thanks for the replys
UK

[Bill M]

Using ramps when servicing an AU XR ?
check your front bumper lower lip does not hit the ramp before driving up.
cheers
Bill.

[mik]

i have a heap of railway sleepers i bought and cut up for general purpose jacking and for driving up on too,
i also have a couple bits of square steel tube (about 2" x 3" wide) i welded together with a big stud in the centre of it so it now sits in the jack where the little round disc used to sit.
it also has a keeper on one end so the x member cant slide off the slippery steel,
i set it to go across from the alloy x member to the steel one in front of the engine, that way the 2 x members share the load, it works pretty well as long as you drive it up on blocks first.

for the back end i usually jack it up from the lower suspension arms , i dont like jacking it under the irs,
i have always wondered if jacking falcons and territorys by the irs is responsible for some bush failures ???
i dont know , havent had to touch one them , just a thought though.

[Spurious]

For an oil change on an AU it's best to just run it up some ramps. The sump drain plug is at the rear anyhow, so it makes sense.

PLUS I too have a lowered Fairmont & must use some extra 800mm long sections of wood seated about half way up each ramp. I made up 2 bits just for the job. Otherwise the front bar hits the ramps.

Rear bar also hits ramps without the extensions.

I used 2 lengths of 65x30mm treated pine, screwed together using hardwood blocks underneath. The hardwood also serves to sit against one of the ramps rungs so it doesn't slip off/downwards, & the high end of the 65x30 sits on the next rung up, for added stability. This also stops the 65x30 from flicking up into the sills as the tyre rolls over it.

I also welded some spikes on the back/bottom so the ramps don't slide (not effective on smooth concrete though, & sometimes they get bent), & I can use an extra block of hardwood on top to get an extra couple inches higher.
Tongue welded to the top/rear so the tyre doesn't roll off the end.

[Spurious]

Also, knowing that the X series K frames can crack (like my XF's did) I believe a contributing factor to this was having trolley jacks placed underneath.

On my XF I used to use the crossmember under the radiator 'cause it was a sturdy bugger (I've never done this with my AU2 though) & I often placed my trolley jack (on timber to get it higher) & then lifted under the tow bar below the frame mount. Could raise the whole rear end this way.

Bare in mind though that my XF had a huge meaty tow bar set up, with an "A" frame that extended from the gooseneck, under the fuel tank (as the "A" frame widened), & then back up to the floorpan behind the rear seat where it was bolted in 2 places about 15" apart.

[Spurious]

You could always just use 2 trolley jacks, one each side at the same time!
I use the lip on the chassis rail, right next to the box formation (between chassis rail & sill) at the bottom rear of the front wheel arch, to raise with a trolley jack.
To lift the rear I place the jack under the front of the trailing arm mount.

A note to the unwary, choc the front tyres if raising the whole rear end!

[xr6tjet]

Jacking from the tow bar mounting point will bend and kink your spare tyre frame. I've seen it all too many times before!

[Spurious]

Originally Posted by xr6tjet

Jacking from the tow bar mounting point will bend and kink your spare tyre frame. I've seen it all too many times before!

Hey, advice given here is DIY at your own risk.
I did say however, that I did this on my XF as it had a huge meaty tube steel A framed tow bar.
I never stated that I do, suggest to, or would attempt it on my AU2!

[Polyal]

I just did it the old painful way and mounted the stands on that section of the chassis rail that looks like its cut out.

Perhaps long term some good ramps are the way to go.

[aussiblue]

There are these adapters so you can use it where the car scissor jack goes:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solid-Rub...item1e995fcf51

[Grippy]

Great idea, I'm going to grab one of them.

[Mr Hardware]

My AU rides so high I can get under to change oil while it's sitting on the ground

[OffRoadFalcon]

At the front, I almost always jack from the front steel cross-member, never had any issues with this. Jack stands go behind the front wheels.

At the rear, I'll often jack from the diff and use axle stands.


Don't need ramps or a jack to do an oil change on mine

[aussiblue]

always jack from the front steel cross-member

Not recommended as it will eventually bends throwing out caster and camber.

[Spurious]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Not recommended as it will eventually bends throwing out caster and camber.

Agreed!

[FNQracing]

The amount of confusion over the jacking points is somewhat bewildering. Ford tells you where the appropriate jacking points are in the owners manual: the cut out sections just fore and aft of the front and rear wheels respectively, along the pinch weld section of the unibody. These work fine for scissor and trolley jacks alike, even the round headed ones.

Never jack from the cross members (the AU does not have a "k-frame" like E series cars), or the frame rails.

[AUwindsor]

Originally Posted by FNQracing

Never jack from the cross members (the AU does not have a "k-frame" like E series cars), or the frame rails.

Both my AU's have been lifted without an issue from the front steel cross member which is bolted very solidly to the chassis rails. They both still handle 100% with no tyre wear. If i thought the cross member wasn't strong enough, or had seen any problems like wheel alignment thrown out, I wouldn't still be using it

[aussiblue]

Both my AU's have been lifted without an issue from the front steel cross member which is bolted very solidly to the chassis rails. They both still handle 100% with no tyre wear. If i thought the cross member wasn't strong enough, or had seen any problems like wheel alignment thrown out, I wouldn't still be using it

At your peril as Ford warn against it both the front suspension and body section of the factory AU workshop manual.

[Uncle_Ken]

So where os the best place to jack the car up and place stands to steady the car (and move the jack to the other side and repeat the process?
UK

[aussiblue]

It is shown in the drivers hand book but at the front on the cross hatched /ribbed areas on the sub frame out frame rails that cross the body on each side adjacent to the marked sill scissor jack points. See this for rear jacking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucVYl3fbKYQ but again the ribbed area adjacent to the marked sill lift area.