free advice on the 83-87 telstar

dirty hands · 20-01-2006, 10:17 PM

just if i can help a newbie or other person stuck with a problem :newangel:
i can help with information or a how to do or something
if someone needs a second opinion on something about this model i can help
feel free to email me
knine000yahoo.com.au
oh i dont know anything about modifications or turbos

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dirty hands · 28-01-2006, 10:07 AM

mm dont run on unleaded to well i guess
but the heads can be modified
:ymca:
helped a few members out so far ..thats good

meanbow · 09-02-2006, 08:46 AM

hi there.
i just registered on here to see if anyone can help me with a problem i have on my 83 telstar 1.6 ghia with the 4 speed manual gearbox.i have just purchased the above mentioned car from a gentleman who has had the car for a while, and upon driving the car back home, i noticed the digital speedometer and revcounter were not registering, yet the analogue mileometer and odometer were still clocking up the miles. does anyone know where i can begin looking to recify this problem, as i wish to get this car back to original and full operational status and show it off a bit.
there's just one thing i'd best mention first tho, both myself and the car DO NOT live in austrailia, the car was imported to the U.K, so don't go saying try this place in.... because i wont be able to sorry

dirty hands · 09-02-2006, 09:29 AM

thats an intresting one are you any
good at auto electrics
you need to check the voltage
but if the std speedo is working then i would say the other has been disconnected or its a fuse
the digital isnt in the stock australian telstar
mazda 626 and ford telstar are the same over here for that year
you may have to take the instrument cluster out to have a good look
i dont have any wiring diagramms and i didnt see any uk ford forums for you to go to after a web search
ill look around see what i can find out

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meanbow · 10-02-2006, 07:59 AM

i'm not too good on auto electrics, but i talked to the prevoius owner, and he said something interesting...which i'm yet to check out.
he told me that if you run the car for 20 minutes, the dashboard starts working again and all the digital dials register, as he claims that there's a faulty diode somewhere on the dashboard rear panel that starts working again when warm. can anyone confirm this piece of info, as i can then take it to an auto electrician for rectification.

dirty hands · 10-02-2006, 03:26 PM

the back of the dash is a printed circuit no sign of any diode
where the wiring connection goes into the printed circuit it can rub off the copper contact thus giving you no circuit /contact

recheck all the fusable links and clean the fuses at each end and the
contacts

looks like it might be a faulty connection in one of the wiring loom connectors
a dry connection is possible
spray the connections with a bit of wd 40 or similar

not to hard to remove the instrument cluster to have a look before taking your car to an auto electician

my australian wiring doesnt show your type of dash so i cant help with wire colour

meanbow · 22-02-2006, 09:46 AM

i've pulled the dash out on the car and had a look behind it, checked all the connections to it,sprayed everything in WD40 and it still doesn't work properly. the speedo drive cable is intact, and all fuses are fine.
have i overlooked something, or is there a sensor drive somewhere on the gearbox that may be at fault.
i hate having no plans or manual to refer to, it's like flying blind in a snowstorm

dirty hands · 25-02-2006, 08:44 PM

time to take it to an auto electrician cant help you from here on

out:

frdgrl · 14-11-2007, 03:10 PM

g'day i had the same prob with my 1990 EA. it had to have the dash ripped out and was sent to sydney for analysis. get ur auto elec to test the computer behind ur speedo, it may be faulty, after 17 years, that was the prob wit mine.

deleese · 12-03-2006, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirty hands

just if i can help a newbie or other person stuck with a problem :newangel:
i can help with information or a how to do or something
if someone needs a second opinion on something about this model i can help
feel free to email me
knine000yahoo.com.au
oh i dont know anything about modifications or turbos

:

I have an '88 TX5 ghia - now leaking oil heavily from around timing cover seal area. Hubby dreading the job of repairing - any idea whether the motor has to come out or can the job be done in car - not much room under the bonnet. Any idea of the cost involved - probably have to replace timing belt etc. Good little car other than that.
Deleese

dirty hands · 12-03-2006, 11:53 PM

no the engine doesnt have to come out
i have done the job myself
i can email you the 4 pages with diagramms of how to do if needed

Repco fpr the timing belt and seal prob around $100 but not sure of Maryborough prices
This work is usually done at a cam timing belt replacement if it has done more than 50.000 km by my book
you work with the tyre off mainly and the splash guard
Just a few tricks to watch out for
all the plastic covers of the timing belt come off
now the timing belt has to be removed and then the lower crank shaft sprocket which is on a key way
if you move the cam or the timing belt sprocket during the replacement of the seal one notch you are in big trouble (I forgot and was out by one notch and my car didnt start because the valve timing was out)
make sure no 1 cyl is at TDC mark the timing belt in its direction of rotation if you are using the old timing belt
you must mark carefully the position of TDC FOR BOTH the top cam point and the belt position on the lower crankshaft sproket before removal -i use fingernail polish - mark the belt tooth to the cam notches precisely
and its a few hours work but no special tools
some sockets , rags. patience a rattle gun helps but my pully wheel just came off easy

dirty hands · 13-03-2006, 12:20 AM

remove the plastic covers and see which seal is leaking top cam shaft seal
or the lower pully seal both times the timing belt has to come off
as post above

the plastic covers had 7 screws may be 8 or 10 mm small socket was required to take them off
Still remove the tyre and the splash guard in the mudguard to get a better look at the bottom seal ok hope that helps
I was hoping it would just be the tappet cover leaking

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EB Pete · 27-03-2006, 08:01 PM

hey man hope you can help with this. me olds 87 teltsa blew the head and we have replaced it all. just have to do the timing but when we turn the key to stage 2 the starter motor kicks in. any help would be great thanks.

pete

telstar85AS · 30-03-2006, 06:14 PM

G'day,

How hard is it to change over an ignition coil in an 85 AS telstar tx5. Are there any little tricks or is it just straight forward. And do you know of anywhere in brisbane that would give me a resonable price on one.

cheers

EB Pete · 01-04-2006, 12:02 PM

about the starter motor kicking in on stage 2 we have worked out it is not the ignition but a short (we think). any ideas?

dirty hands · 01-04-2006, 10:30 PM

ok call me dumb where is southbrook
I only have the australian wiring diagrame and information
What else works when the ignition is at stage 2
If you think its a short look in behind the fuse box and also the thermatic fan
if one is fitted what is the radio doing ?

Also get in and look at all the wires to the starter from the ignition

I will have a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you
on to the wiring diagramms for the ignition circuit

Might have to look at the wires to the starter and the starter itself
just great i cant email you !!!

: yo better pm me

dirty hands · 01-04-2006, 11:10 PM

well all my ign system diagrams show ign goes to battery with 2 wires running through a inline fusable link
one goes to the control box through a fuse the last one goes to the cooling fan of the radiator if your not blowing fuses or melting wiring it comes back to the ignition sorry i cant be of more help
oh one wiring diagrame i have includes the wires as mentioned but also a white green going to neutral safety switch from the ignition

dirty hands · 04-04-2006, 01:53 PM

WIring diagramme for your ignition problem
you just need a magnifying glass
Isee you are an electrician hope it helps

if I only knew about the advanced mode option of images before

now I have to get the image size right

I can post how to does .thats great ..duh

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dirty hands · 06-04-2006, 07:11 AM

attachment is the fuse box layout
due to the download restrictions I cant make it any bigger ..sorry
If someone can help me out with advice on that it would help
If you can try to move it to a document viewer where you can magnify the document

Also I found you cant run a leaded engine with auto on pure unleaded
even with timing and carby adjustments
I tried all kinds of different settings
So the lead addative is required or a modification to the valves and valve seats is required and if you can grab an unleaded carby that fits
anyone who has succeded in doing so please post

telstar85AS · 17-04-2006, 05:40 PM

Just had a poke around in there.
Nothing jumped out at me with the carby. but then again i don't know all that much about it and just poked and proded at the butterfly valves.
i did notice one of the lines going to the manifold was a bit perished and may not be sealing fully but thats about it.
Dissy cap is next in-line and probably will happen this week. Heard a strange popping sound (maybe like a spark being thrown) inside it. and the popping sound was inline / at the same time with the revs jumping and droping. little bit of dodgey/old wiring around there too. if that doesn't work then it will be a look at the started motor. Then if there's still a problem i'll probably get my hands on a manual and worry about the carby a bit more.
Thanks a lot for all your help. it's been great.

dirty hands · 18-04-2006, 08:17 AM

hop out at night in the dark (has to have no light at all)
raise the bonnet then start the car
if there is any electrical stuff you will ]
see it light up like a fire cracker or fire works
if its all dark then we need to move on to something else :1syellow1

telstar85AS · 18-04-2006, 10:21 AM

good idea, i'll give it a crack tonight

dirty hands · 18-04-2006, 09:01 PM

just had a thought
what fuel are you putting in your tank

the lead suppliment is an absolute must if its a leaded car and it cant be hit and miss - its better to have a higher percentage of the addative
engine timing performance and all kinds of wierd stuff happens ?

telstar85AS · 20-04-2006, 12:42 PM

the car is a Dec 85 AS Unleaded. So i use just regular unleaded. New dissy cap and lead are now on. starts all good now but still has the problem with the hiccups when driving and idling. Now thinking i'm getting too much air is getting in. runs smooth no hiccups) with the choke on (just at higher revs). but when the choke is let back out it starts to hiccup again.
someone said to get a motor vac done. and that might fix it.

dirty hands · 20-04-2006, 10:09 PM

well you have spent a lot of money chasing an electrical problem
now that everything has been replaced
that has been eliminated as a cause
good unleaded thats another cause crossed off

If the engine runs well- no valve or head problems
or uneven cylinder compressions
fuel filter clean and fuel pump works

no problems on choke (not familar with the term motor vac)
only leaves you with the carby
symptoms ----it wont idle and has irregular revs
lets talk carby
if you feel confident do you want to take the top off your carby ?
and clean it
or take it off the car and do it properly?
a carby rebuild kit from repco ?

telstar85AS · 21-04-2006, 12:34 PM

Yeah atleast with all the electrical it starts fine now. just gotta keep the engine going once it's started.

motor vac apparently flushes out fuel system and it increase vacuum pressure. so i've been told.

Being a uni student the buget is tight so i'll probably have a go at cleaning the carby first before i worry about a rebuild.

dirty hands · 21-04-2006, 11:33 PM

ok this is how to take the top of the carby off

I hope you have one of these - air pump - bicycle pump- compressor

if not just blow as best you can even use a straw if you have to
hope that helps

dirty hands · 22-04-2006, 01:42 AM

sorry people I used up my max upload space
I had to remove some

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hrb93 · 02-05-2006, 10:09 PM

Hi,

Just purchased 4 weeks ago an 85 Telstar with a 2.0 Auto. It was owned by an old bloke, it has done 35,000Kms and was serviced every 6 months. (Immaculate).

Anyway, i noticed straight away that it used a fair bit of fuel ie: 15l/100kms around town. But yesterday, it started to idle extremely rough and splutter, and was very fumey. But when actually driving along, it goes fine.

any ideas?

Thanks.

dirty hands · 03-05-2006, 07:11 AM

for that small amount of km the car was over serviced in my opinion

auto matic choke may be the problem
let me know what the idle is cold and hot and if it does butterfly opens all the way when hot

if you want to pull the plugs out and have a look at them

what do the leads look like

and see what the timing is on the engine