|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
15-11-2011, 12:42 PM | #1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Every now and again when I'm stopped stopped at the lights on a hot day, the oil sensor warning beeps and the oil light blinks. The pressure gauge doesn't quite touch the left side red bar and the reading comes back up to halfway if I touch the accelerator.
I changed the oil about 4 weeks ago. The store didn't have 5W-?? oil (?? means whatever it said in the manual) but they said 10W-?? would do, and it also said that on the oil container. Is that the problem? |
||
15-11-2011, 12:51 PM | #2 | ||
Stroking it...
Join Date: May 2005
Location: The 'butt
Posts: 2,844
|
I would replace your oil pressure switch... They are prone to failure.. Can you hear any signs of there actually being no oil pressure? Or just the gauge reading?
__________________
Had: 347ci AU Then: Now: Busted assed EB Wagon - 5sp and Dual Fuel. |
||
15-11-2011, 01:32 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 1,022
|
I agree, change the sensor.
Just ensure you get an oil pressure sensor, rather than an oil pressure switch. The switch is used in the basic Falcons with no oil pressure gauge, as it just operates a light. I believe they are still available from Ford at a reasonable price. |
||
15-11-2011, 01:35 PM | #4 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,142
|
Also, check for proper earthing. The gauges go all silly if you dont have a good earth.
|
||
15-11-2011, 01:53 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 588
|
I had the same warning a couple of times in my EL Fairmont, idling in drive at a busy intersection with multiple light changes in other directions, very hot day...
The fact that it happens when you're stopped at the lights on a hot day, and revving slightly makes it go away (I did the same thing instinctively to try to bring up pressure), makes me think it's probably something you should take notice of... not just a dodgy sensor. What series is your AU and what's the exact brand and grade of oil you put into your engine? |
||
15-11-2011, 02:03 PM | #6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
|
done a lot of k`s? does it rattle?
|
||
15-11-2011, 05:58 PM | #7 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
Doesn't make any undue noises. It did this just once about 7 months ago when I first got it. I found the oil was a bit low, and after I topped it up it didn't do it again until just now. It has some sort of "active" oil leak, that is, it doesn't drip on the concrete, but it slowly loses it as you drive. (There's no sign it's burning it, the exhaust is very clean). Since I got the car for nothing, I'm not going to be spending much on it, nice though it is. (It's still far faster and cheaper for me to catch the train to work, so it doesnt get a lot of use). I don't see how it could be the sensor, since it always reads about half-scale when you move away from idle, no matter how fast the engine is revving. Is there some sort of oil additive (Wynns etc) that will give extra protection if the pressure is low, or is that stuff basically Snake Oil? |
|||
15-11-2011, 06:22 PM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 588
|
What series is your AU and what's the exact brand and grade of oil you put into your engine?
No point thinking about oil additives if you've got the wrong type in there in the first place! |
||
16-11-2011, 12:55 PM | #9 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
I've been topping it up with the correct grade: Shell Helix 5W-30. $49.95 for 5 litres! The oil on the dipstick is still very clean, looks like pale honey, so I don't think it's anywhere near its use-by date. Just after I changed the oil I drove the car to Brisbane and back, and it never did it once on that trip. The other thing is, it never actually drops quite down to the left red bar, so maybe the warning beeper is set too low. |
|||
15-11-2011, 07:34 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 905
|
My wifes car does the same thing . 150k on the clock and has ben doing it in summer since we have had it , bougth with 120k on it .
AU series 1 . Only now and then , i change oils at 5,000 and always run 5-30 in it . I thought about changing the switch this time but wasnt sure if its a common issue .
__________________
1998 AU VCT Ghia - Stock as a rock - Wifes car 1991 Toyota Soarer TT - 11.72 @ 116.7mph 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 - Family Ride . |
||
15-11-2011, 10:08 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
|
i would try the sensor myself, cheap an easy ones first ;), if that did`nt work i`d put a cheap capillary oil pressure gauge on the motor(0- 100 psi) and see what is really happening.
|
||
15-11-2011, 10:18 PM | #12 | ||
on the way to the RSL
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Almurta
Posts: 1,487
|
My motor on a hot day drops down to about 25psi on a low idle, bring revs up even 100rpm or less and pressure comes up to 40psi instantly. That's using a autometer mech gauge, so they will drop in pressure when hot and at idle.
I'm not overly concerned as its only at idle and there's no load on it when the pressures down.
__________________
ED GLi - DOHC - GT42R - 2 Speed - 275 Radials- Moser 9" 8.9x@160mph+ |
||
16-11-2011, 12:20 AM | #13 | |||
You can't stop the signal
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Behind a computer at work
Posts: 1,624
|
What oil brand are the two guys with low oil pressure using?
If it's penrite, then there is your problem Cheers
__________________
Quote:
|
|||
16-11-2011, 01:02 PM | #14 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
When you only have an oil light, you have no idea what the oil pressure is doing most of the time anyway, which seems perfectly fine for the vast majority of motorists in the world. I have no idea what the benefit is of having an oil pressure gauge on a family sedan anyway. |
|||
16-11-2011, 12:29 AM | #15 | ||
Bugger!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Albany, WA
Posts: 3,307
|
Also, what revs are the engines doing? Are we talking very low idles, or a normal speed?
What oil levels in the motors?
__________________
Whoops, there goes another factory setup! Chop and change - butchering cars since 1990 |
||
16-11-2011, 12:35 AM | #16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
|
imo not really necessary to run the thin oil now, i believe they ran the thin stuff from the factory for tighter tolerances, i run mine a little thicker oil, 10/30 is recommended mine, presently running 15/40 iirc.
|
||
16-11-2011, 05:23 AM | #17 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 38
|
My V8 does the same, Low Oil Pressure warning while sitting and after a lot of research I believe its the Volts/Alternator or gauges.
If you have a volt gauge watch the Volt gauge drop and at the same time the oil pressure drops, as my volts drop from 13.8/14 volts down to 12/12.5 volts the oil pressure drops. I suspect its either the gauges playing up or the Alternator is on its way out. Personally I think its the alternator as it plays up more when Im using the Air Con Fan on high and Head Lights. btw I changed the Oil pressure switch/sender made no difference, so was just a waist of money. |
||
16-11-2011, 10:42 AM | #18 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 588
|
Quote:
AU -- 5W-30 ILSAC GF2 AU series II and III -- 10W 30 WSS-M2C-910-A2 So the grade of oil changed between S1 and S2. Which is why I asked what the OP has. |
|||
16-11-2011, 01:04 PM | #19 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
|
|||
16-11-2011, 03:55 PM | #20 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 588
|
Quote:
|
|||
16-11-2011, 05:03 PM | #21 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
I'd get more details but the thing is parked half a mile away. (Which I why I usually travel by train!) |
|||
16-11-2011, 02:10 PM | #22 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On a knifes edge!
Posts: 3,408
|
Quickly skimmed over the thread.
I'm with Cam and Mik (and whoever else suggested similiar). Purchase a gauge, tap it into the oil gallery and see what is truely happening. Grab a sensor as well and replace it if you end up finding it reading incorrectly........or just throw one at it anyway as they do fail. They are cheap enough. Also wish to back up the suggestion of low system voltage at idle. Do not disregrade this. It is the cause of many a non existence faults and errors within electrical circuits. Leave a car or machine idling long enough and the current and voltage draw is higher then the alternator output at low RPM. Idle speed? Is it to low due to parasistic loads such as worn and dragging pulley bearings for example, blah, blah, blah. Heat soak plays havic with cars and stationary machinery where it's principle design was to have movement to remove heat and not souly rely on water jacket water or some ****y thermo fans. If you can't find anything simple out of the suggestions in this thread, purchase yourself a new filter and filter cutter. Inspect engine oil filter ............with fingers crossed. Remember, inspect the outside of the filter. Not the inner area. Filters outside in, through the filter. Cut a section of the filter out once you have the element apart and squeeze excess oil out of it (use a vice if you have one available). Open it up and read it like a book. It tells a story. My experience with AU 4L's is they are generally pretty bullet proof and screwed together well enough for a mass produced factory engine. But, like everything, they are only man made and components, sensors etc do fail. Let us know how you go. I'm keen to hear the outcome. I sincerely hope it starts and stops with a simple engine oil pressure sensor. Cheers. JC |
||
17-11-2011, 05:07 PM | #23 | ||
on the way to the RSL
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Almurta
Posts: 1,487
|
I'm using Sin 20 (20-60w). Which I'm sure most of you may freak out about but its working well for mine, coming from Edge 25-50w its a lot more stable after 5+ pulls on a dyno or a few 1/4 passes.
__________________
ED GLi - DOHC - GT42R - 2 Speed - 275 Radials- Moser 9" 8.9x@160mph+ |
||
17-11-2011, 06:18 PM | #24 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sunbury, vic.
Posts: 3,110
|
Checked your earth points under neath the airbox, they cause the gauge to read low like your saying, in particular on hot days at traffic lights, the poor earth makes the gauge way over sensitive.
There is nothing wrong with running 20w-60 especially in summer. The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10psi per 1000rpm. |
||
18-11-2011, 11:46 AM | #25 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 110
|
Quote:
I actually had a problem very like this about 30 years ago in an XR 289 V8 if you can believe that. The temperature gauge used to read alarmingly high when you were driving along, but would return to normal when you stopped at the lights. It turned out the engine block was about 3 Volts negative with respect to the chassis, because the block earthing lead bolts had come loose! Tightened them up, and everything was happy again. And all of a sudden the lights were brighter, the indicators clicked at the normal speed, and the horn got a lot louder! |
|||