au i6 rpm limit/qter times

[FS5]

i have always been a big fan of changing gears right on the limter when running down quarter .i have personaly found changing as close to the rpm cut out gives me the best results.
after watching monty run some excellent times last night(for the mods he has done)i reckon one of the best mods would be to get your rpm cutout raised to at least 6000/6100rpm.
i was wondering what rpm cut out most of the top au's are running ?
especialy trypowers beast,i know tuners don't like giving away there secrets .
hamo's cut rpm cutout was @ 6000rpm???
gezza ???
siksix ???
stav, your @6000rpm (correct me if i'm wrong mate)
casper ???
nik / me 5900rpm
frdgal_au6 ???
loxxr6 im asuming 5750 with the unichip
death xr ???

just looking into ways we can knock a tenth or 2 off our quarter times.even if it is a something as simple as raising the rpm limit .

[Casper]

Cut out at 6000, change at 5800rpm.

[Stav]

Mine is at 6200 to 6400 rpm rpm memory.

[ten[A]cio[U]s]

haha 6200 for the i6 stav... nice :

[xr8ute]

Be careful base rpm shiftpoints off the factory tach...i dont believe its that accurate.

I was shifting my XR8 at as close to the rev limiter as i could manage. The dash tach was indicating ~5800rpm, and the signal from the "clean tach output" pin of the EEC was indicating 5500rpm.

IMO, thats a massive difference, but which one is the more accurate?

[Mr_4.0]

Originally Posted by xr8ute

Be careful base rpm shiftpoints off the factory tach...i dont believe its that accurate.

I was shifting my XR8 at as close to the rev limiter as i could manage. The dash tach was indicating ~5800rpm, and the signal from the "clean tach output" pin of the EEC was indicating 5500rpm.

IMO, thats a massive difference, but which one is the more accurate?

yes i have found the EXACT same thing.

[Stav]

The au tacho only reads accurately in first gear. If you want to know your rev cutout drive the car in first gear to limiter.This is accurate.2nd and third gear are not accurate and read higher than it actually is.

[xr8ute]

Originally Posted by Stav

The au tacho only reads accurately in first gear. If you want to know your rev cutout drive the car in first gear to limiter.This is accurate.2nd and third gear are not accurate and read higher than it actually is.

I didn't find that with mine Stav. The dash tach in my ute was consistently high in each gear.

[Stav]

Originally Posted by xr8ute

I didn't find that with mine Stav. The dash tach in my ute was consistently high in each gear.

Dave if the ute gets going try what I suggested and then try to hit the limiter in 2nd gear .This should confirm what I am saying.

[stiddy]

I flatchange pretty much on the limiter..
5800rpm rpm, keep it nailed.. pull it out of gear, flick the clutch and dump it to the next gear.. its just taps limiter between changes. Thats how ive found the best times..
Ive short shifted to *too keep it in the torque band because theres no point revving* as some people blab on about.. and I get 2/10ths slower.
I want my limiter moved up to about 7200rpm lol.

[FS5]

mmmmm..,i think i might have to give chip torque a ring and see how much it is to get the rev limit increased to 6100rpm.
how do you reckon the flywheel handle those kind of revs?you reckon it would be worth getting it lightend and balanced?

[stiddy]

Ive got a lightened billet alloy flywheel, I recommend them. Its just so much more responsive and revs up alot faster.

[Stav]

A lightened flywheel will be alot more responsive but not as strong. In saying that ..if I had a manual I would do it anyway!!

[FS5]

Originally Posted by stiddy

Ive got a lightened billet alloy flywheel, I recommend them. Its just so much more responsive and revs up alot faster.

if you don't mind me asking,where did you buy it from and how much did it cost?

[SIKSIX]

unicip for me so change at 5600-5700.

[stiddy]

Originally Posted by FS5

if you don't mind me asking,where did you buy it from and how much did it cost?

Hey mate,
The flywheel was included in the price of my clutch kit, all up worked out to be $1300. They sorted it all out, I just handed over the money.
The flywheel itself cost around the $380-400 mark from memory, but I got the complete kit at a discounted rate.

[The Monty]

I was going to 6000 in first, and around 6200 in second. On the note of Tacho innacuracy, it read 6600 in second on the first run, but the rest were all around 6200, with one I kept into it till 6400.

[OED666]

this is something i have thought about many times...

with my original flywheel from my conversion (ea parts) i had heaps of problems changing over 5000rpm. Since getting a BA Mk1 Turbo flywheel and 10 1/2" clutch i have NEVAH had a problem. The tacho swings WAY TOO quickly to see what i am changing at. I just go by how it feels. From there on, i generally pick another gear around 5700-5900rpm. My limiter is set at 6000rpm.

My clutch and flywheel weigh what my old flywheel used to weigh. ACE Clutches have an 11" alloy flywheel and clutch for E/AU I6's. Not sure on the cost yet, but thats the bad girl i am getting.

[FS5]

Originally Posted by OED666

this is something i have thought about many times...

with my original flywheel from my conversion (ea parts) i had heaps of problems changing over 5000rpm.

my clutch is the same at the moment,if i take it easy its fine ,but once i put some revs under it and change gears it takes quite a bit more force.

[OED666]

you can get a ba mk1 turbo flywheel for $240... i know its probably not as light as the alloy one, but still a cheap option and much lighter than a standard one.

[FS5]

thanks guys