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Old 25-04-2008, 10:20 AM   #1
DodgeVenom
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Default Dodgy roadworthy

I got a roadworthy done yesterday on my '93 XG, and the bloke came up with a few things which made me raise my eyebrows.

"Brake caliper bolts tie wire" Basically he reckon's the holes in the head of the top caliper bolts is for a wire to go through the bolt and wrap around the stub axle to stop the bolt from falling out. Interesting. : If i'm not mistaken that hole is for a wire, but it's to hang up the calipers when you remove them so they're not hanging off the brake line.

The 17 x 8 mags wheels i have on the car are too large, there isn't enough clearance between the inside of the rim and the top ball joint. Plus apparently they're 2 inches larger than standard which makes them too big.

My LPG system doesn't have a "Gas box safety switch" so the entire system needs to be rewired to fit one. Conveniently this bloke just happens to be a R/W tester and LPG installer. What i can say is the bloke who fitted my S/H motor last month said my gas safety switch was faulty, and that's why my car wasn't switching onto gas properly. I watched him reconnecting the safety switch myself, so i'm pretty damn certain my car has one.

Tester also says that my tank is out of date. I had it retested 2 years ago, and fair enough the idiots didn't stamp my tank they just gave me a certificate from the tester. But the certificate still has the tank serial No. etc to prove it. Testers says its rubbish though. Conveniently he can retest my tank for $220.

Alignment is out. Curious. Tyre wear so far is spot on, i also work at a tyre place doing wheel alignments and mine is schmicko.

He says my Whiteline rear sway bar kits needs to be removed or engineered. I have no idea if this is true or not, but at this point i can't tell what's BS and what isn't.

Of course just to do me a favour, they said they would keep my test off the books to give me longer than 7 days to fix it all. What the??? I'm no mechanic so i don't have a clue if they've picked legitimate things or not, but this test stinks like crap to me :

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Old 25-04-2008, 10:34 AM   #2
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not sure if your allowed but incase your in melb, i and im sure others would like to know who this dodgy guy is.
As far as the r/w goes i thought you get a month to fix... or is that a month that it's valid for after it's fixed.... hmm not sure, and as far as wheels go, in melb you can have 2'' larger just no more than 2''.
Stay away from him mate.
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Old 25-04-2008, 11:29 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by T-BOOST
As far as the r/w goes i thought you get a month to fix... or is that a month that it's valid for after it's fixed
No, you only have 7 days to fix it and return it, otherwise you have to pay the $85 testing fee again.

The Roadworthy Certificate is valid for 30 days upon receiving one.
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Old 26-04-2008, 06:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobman
No, you only have 7 days to fix it and return it, otherwise you have to pay the $85 testing fee again.

The Roadworthy Certificate is valid for 30 days upon receiving one.
And the tester is required to inform the Transport Department that your car is of an unroadworthy state, and they can deregister it!
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:37 AM   #5
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Depending on which state you are in.
Brake caliper bolts tie wire is correct
Rims, 1" larger in width and diameter is permitted from factory- what was the XR option from factory, 15" or 16"?
Other than that a second opinion would be my suggestion.
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:37 AM   #6
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Sounds Dodgey to me mate, If your in Melb, Go through the RACV or something..
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
I got a roadworthy done yesterday on my '93 XG, and the bloke came up with a few things which made me raise my eyebrows.

"Brake caliper bolts tie wire" Basically he reckon's the holes in the head of the top caliper bolts is for a wire to go through the bolt and wrap around the stub axle to stop the bolt from falling out. Interesting. : If i'm not mistaken that hole is for a wire, but it's to hang up the calipers when you remove them so they're not hanging off the brake line.
:
He's right...
Its to lock the bolt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
The 17 x 8 mags wheels i have on the car are too large, there isn't enough clearance between the inside of the rim and the top ball joint. Plus apparently they're 2 inches larger than standard which makes them too big.

:
He's right again...
The law is + 1" from the factory wheel spec for width OR diameter....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom

My LPG system doesn't have a "Gas box safety switch" so the entire system needs to be rewired to fit one. Conveniently this bloke just happens to be a R/W tester and LPG installer. What i can say is the bloke who fitted my S/H motor last month said my gas safety switch was faulty, and that's why my car wasn't switching onto gas properly. I watched him reconnecting the safety switch myself, so i'm pretty damn certain my car has one.

Tester also says that my tank is out of date. I had it retested 2 years ago, and fair enough the idiots didn't stamp my tank they just gave me a certificate from the tester. But the certificate still has the tank serial No. etc to prove it. Testers says its rubbish though. Conveniently he can retest my tank for $220.

:
By law he's doing the right thing, can't fault that either..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
He says my Whiteline rear sway bar kits needs to be removed or engineered. I have no idea if this is true or not, but at this point i can't tell what's BS and what isn't.

Of course just to do me a favour, they said they would keep my test off the books to give me longer than 7 days to fix it all. What the??? I'm no mechanic so i don't have a clue if they've picked legitimate things or not, but this test stinks like crap to me : :
This guy is doing a CORRECT R/W and you're complaining...??? :

If he let all that go it would be dodgey, and he could loose his licence or face prosecution if something happened to your car and he let it go... good to see someone do a proper R/W.



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Last edited by 4Vman; 25-04-2008 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 26-04-2008, 08:43 AM   #8
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This guy is doing a CORRECT R/W and you're complaining...??? :

If he let all that go it would be dodgey, and he could loose his licence or face prosecution if something happened to your car and he let it go... good to see someone do a proper R/W.[/QUOTE]

What about the alignment etc?
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:53 AM   #9
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All sounds pretty legit to me too.
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Old 25-04-2008, 11:21 AM   #10
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I dont know about other states but in South Oz we allowed to go 2" over factory wheel specs also have done quite a few brake repairs and have never come across Brake caliper bolts tie wires
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Old 25-04-2008, 12:11 PM   #11
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Like i said i'm not a mechanic so don't know any better, just certainly felt like i was been taken for a ride. Cheers for the advice guys. Certainly correct in saying that people shouldn't be doing dodgy roadworthy's, but for a consumer there's really no readily available source of information to know if they've done the right job. Which is why i mentioned it here, i figured it would be sorted out fairly quickly.

Will take it back to where i had the tank originally tested and get them to sort that out on Monday. Pretty poor form charging someone $230 for a tank test and not even stamping it. Bit of wire on a bolt and removing the sway bar and she should just about be right.
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Old 25-04-2008, 12:19 PM   #12
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He's wrong about the wheels. The difference is not iin the actual size of the rim but in rolling diameter so a 17" wheel does not have a rolling diameter greater than 1.25" (that's what Vicroads stated) making it legal.

Personally I'd find a different tester, what area are you in?
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Old 25-04-2008, 12:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
He's wrong about the wheels. The difference is not iin the actual size of the rim but in rolling diameter so a 17" wheel does not have a rolling diameter greater than 1.25" (that's what Vicroads stated) making it legal.

Personally I'd find a different tester, what area are you in?
In Vic its definately +1" max.



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Old 25-04-2008, 12:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Vman
In Vic its definately +1" max.
Last I was on the phone to them which admittedly was a while ago now the stated some odd figure between 1" & 2". Thinking about it I can't remember if it was 1.25" or 1.75". I do remember though that it was definitely more than 1".
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Old 25-04-2008, 01:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Vman
In Vic its definately +1" max.
From my recent investigation 1" in radius 2" in diametre, of the largest sized wheel combination offered on that particular make of vehicle, certainly is a hotly debated topic though! (although older cars may be different?)

You cannot go over 1" wider though.
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Old 25-04-2008, 04:55 PM   #16
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guys - straight from vic roads website :

vic roads - mods guide section 8:

no engineering required for :

diameter:

+15mm max diameter of rim+tyre of largest offered for that model ( -15mm of smallest factory offereing for that model)

width : +25mm over widest RIM offered by factory

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...340/0/VSI8.pdf

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Old 25-04-2008, 12:21 PM   #17
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in WA you are allowed 2" in diameter, and iirc it doesnt matter how wide your wheels are provided that they sit in line with or inside the guards.
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Old 25-04-2008, 12:52 PM   #18
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I'm in Ballarat, didn't have the test done by my regular bloke because i wanted it done ASAP and he was busy.. As far as the wheels and tyres go I'm running 235/45/17 tyres which are 643.3mm diameter, the stock wheels 205/65/15 are 647.5mm. So mine are 4.2mm smaller. Rims are just the Koya XR which is a pre-AU rim and it all fits nicely under the gaurds.
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Old 25-04-2008, 01:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
I'm in Ballarat, didn't have the test done by my regular bloke because i wanted it done ASAP and he was busy.. As far as the wheels and tyres go I'm running 235/45/17 tyres which are 643.3mm diameter, the stock wheels 205/65/15 are 647.5mm. So mine are 4.2mm smaller. Rims are just the Koya XR which is a pre-AU rim and it all fits nicely under the gaurds.
lol so am I. Have you tried Hertford Street Mechanical? Neil Cooper is a pretty good bloke.
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Old 25-04-2008, 01:05 PM   #20
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I wouldnt say dodgy, Just very, very picky! Which at the end of the day is a good thing, I have been burnt by the dodgy RW/Canary duo.
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Old 25-04-2008, 05:50 PM   #21
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lol 25mm = .984 inches. XG only came with 15 x 6 rims so anything wider than 6.984 isn't road worthy.
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Old 25-04-2008, 07:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
lol 25mm = .984 inches. XG only came with 15 x 6 rims so anything wider than 6.984 isn't road worthy.
Correct!



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Old 26-04-2008, 12:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
lol 25mm = .984 inches. XG only came with 15 x 6 rims so anything wider than 6.984 isn't road worthy.
Was there an XR version of the XG? Or a factory option of 16 inch rims, because its +1 inch of the biggest factory rim for that model series.
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Old 29-04-2008, 08:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bossxr8
Was there an XR version of the XG? Or a factory option of 16 inch rims, because its +1 inch of the biggest factory rim for that model series.
Thats spot on,xg xr's had an optional 16x7.
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Old 25-04-2008, 08:11 PM   #25
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does a freind\family member have a x series-eseries ford with legal tyres with standard rims?? if so i'd jack the sucker up and swap them for a few days lol.
not a good idea but ive done it lol
or buy some stockies

where in ballarat did you go?
ive had the last few done in delacombe. the bloke i use can be a little strict but ive found him fair on most things
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Old 25-04-2008, 09:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
"Brake caliper bolts tie wire" Basically he reckon's the holes in the head of the top caliper bolts is for a wire to go through the bolt and wrap around the stub axle to stop the bolt from falling out.
i think he is correct about the wire - although dont newer cars use loctite or similar?
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:08 PM   #27
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u didnt go to hansens tyre and mechanical in emerald qld did u
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Old 25-04-2008, 10:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeVenom
........"Brake caliper bolts tie wire" Basically he reckon's the holes in the head of the top caliper bolts is for a wire to go through the bolt and wrap around the stub axle to stop the bolt from falling out. Interesting. : If i'm not mistaken that hole is for a wire, but it's to hang up the calipers when you remove them so they're not hanging off the brake line.

............
Things might go a bit pear shaped if you tied off on the stub axle. But they certainly tie off on the knuckle and are their to stop bolt rotation.
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Old 26-04-2008, 12:12 AM   #29
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they picked the lack of tie wire on my p6's brake calipers when i was getting it off defect. it really is rubbish though, 99% of the cars on the road have bolts of smaller diameter and no tie wire provisions. brake calipers dont come loose unless they were never tightened properly in the first place!

ps

glad we dont have RWC in SA.
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Old 26-04-2008, 07:03 AM   #30
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Quote:
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glad we dont have RWC in SA.
No RWC!? You don't mind sharing the road with cars that could have all sorts of problems?
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