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18-08-2010, 01:08 AM | #1 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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ABS light lit several months ago. Ford pulled the codes whilst replacing the speed transducer, told me it was the front right sensor.
My mechanic just replaced the sensor (I bought a new one from Ford) while doing my brakes, the light is still on. Is the light just on because Ford hasn't reset it? Or is there something else wrong?
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18-08-2010, 01:50 AM | #2 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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Just checked, ford did note that it was the RHF 'speed sensor' required (quoted $100 to fit -- what a ripoff!).
Just did an ECU reset. Didn't change the light. It still comes on on start-up and stays on.
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AUIII Straight LPG Done: BA XR6T Snorkel, K&N Panel Filter, EL Belt Cover, 2.5" Exhaust To Come: Extractors, Tran. Cooler, Lowering, High-flow Cat |
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18-08-2010, 10:45 AM | #3 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: searching for cubes
Posts: 6,672
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After you replace the sensor you then have to reset the system. Most auto electricians have the scan tool and will only charge you the minimum 15 min labour rate (some don't even charge) to clear the codes for you.
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18-08-2010, 12:20 PM | #4 | ||
AFF Whore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In between gas stations
Posts: 2,246
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You may need to get it rebuilt, I had to have mine done and from memory it cost $250.
They change all the linkages inside the ABS module and put better stuff than factory in. Believe me it sucks not having abs as I found out one wet, overly excited afternoon :( If it's just the sensor it will be around 100 |
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18-08-2010, 02:28 PM | #5 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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Well it was originally just the sensor. But my mechanic is completely non-electrical so he doesn't know a thing about resetting the codes etc Good bloke though.
So before I throw away $40, is it really likely that the codes need resetting? Annoying that there's nothing I can do from home.
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AUIII Straight LPG Done: BA XR6T Snorkel, K&N Panel Filter, EL Belt Cover, 2.5" Exhaust To Come: Extractors, Tran. Cooler, Lowering, High-flow Cat |
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18-08-2010, 03:35 PM | #6 | ||
With da Warlords
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Orange NSW
Posts: 1,781
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When you disconnect the battery the K.A.M is cleared, so if the light pops back up, there is still a fault somewhere.
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18-08-2010, 07:57 PM | #7 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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What's a K.A.M?
Yeah when I did the ECU reset the battery was disconnected for over an hour, but the light never even flickered off when I hooked it all back up. Still on all the time. I do have different branded front and rear tryes, but I think it unlikely they are the problem. The ABS used to work 6 months ago, but then flickered on and off, then just on all the time. Ford just quoted me $140 to read the codes. What a rip!
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18-08-2010, 10:44 PM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 2,195
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What's a sensor worth and where's the best place to get some?
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19-08-2010, 12:09 AM | #9 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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They're about $120 from Ford. Really easy just unplug & spanner jobbie.
Nice ride BTW
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AUIII Straight LPG Done: BA XR6T Snorkel, K&N Panel Filter, EL Belt Cover, 2.5" Exhaust To Come: Extractors, Tran. Cooler, Lowering, High-flow Cat Last edited by atomiclord; 19-08-2010 at 12:22 AM. |
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19-08-2010, 04:21 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 2,195
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Cheers. Uhhh Ford... $120 shouldn't be spent lightly but I guess it's the cheapest part of the ABS setup... I wonder if they can be bought non-genuine (probably for about 1/3 of the price) haha.
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19-08-2010, 04:45 PM | #11 | ||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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I saw 2 S1 front sensors on ebay for $20 a while ago.
Or there's a wrecker in the Bayswater area that had a box of them on a shelf out back last time I was there. Forgot the name...
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AUIII Straight LPG Done: BA XR6T Snorkel, K&N Panel Filter, EL Belt Cover, 2.5" Exhaust To Come: Extractors, Tran. Cooler, Lowering, High-flow Cat |
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19-08-2010, 06:34 PM | #12 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 2,195
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Quote:
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20-08-2010, 12:28 AM | #13 | |||||
I drive way too much...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orelia, Perth, WA
Posts: 68
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Quote:
So basically anyone with an OBDII scanner should be able to reset the code and pull any new ones? Ie. Autosparky, Ford, ebay shoppers etc. Quote:
Quote:
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AUIII Straight LPG Done: BA XR6T Snorkel, K&N Panel Filter, EL Belt Cover, 2.5" Exhaust To Come: Extractors, Tran. Cooler, Lowering, High-flow Cat Last edited by atomiclord; 20-08-2010 at 12:34 AM. |
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20-08-2010, 02:55 PM | #14 | |||
Former BTIKD
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunny Downtown Wagga Wagga. NSW.
Posts: 53,197
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Quote:
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Dying at your job is natures way of saying that you're in the wrong line of work.
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20-08-2010, 03:41 PM | #15 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 684
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Quote:
So I guess if you want to drive a ford in the future then buy geniune and put something back into it, use the free transport they offer, drink from that whoop **** coffee machine. Would have to beat the standing around reading car mags from the 90s and drinking lukewarm black coffee while you wait. You want aftermarket from china or tawain start thinking about modding out your great wall wingle. |
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19-08-2010, 06:56 PM | #16 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 684
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Quote:
Im sure the extra $100 will work more into your budget to get ford to fix it right the first time. Perspective is sweet |
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19-08-2010, 06:06 PM | #17 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 684
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has your car been taken back to ford to have the code removed after the new sensor was fitted?
I will give you a tip after working in dealerships for years. When late model cars have a light come on the dash it leaves a code in the ecu, if a dealer or anybody with a scan tool clears the code but doesnt fix the issue then the light comes back on an loges another code to be cleared, when your mechanic replaced the i imagine the RHF sensor he needed it to be cleared if he sent you on your way he did it half arsed. The easist thing and sometimes the cheapest take it to the dealer they diogniose it they will want you to pay a diognise time, if you agree to getting the work done they will normally but the diognoise time in the hole job(saves money) then you take it back they fit the part and clear the code all fixed onto the next thing if it dosnt fix the issue put it back on the dealership to diognoise it correctly and tell them you want be paying anything more, I have seen stupid amount of free parts and labour given out through bad diognoise. you wouldnt do it to your mechnic freind but there are diffrent rules for car dealerships. If you take the car in have them diognoise it(rember the mechanic at a dealership clocks onto you job card before he even picks up you keys and drives it in the workshop he will do this twice if you take it back twice).Pick the car, dont get them to fix it pay some diognoise time, pay your mechanic to do the job them pay ford again to clear the code its doing it the hard way in my opion and really doesnt work out cheaper. Also car dealerships dont like diognoising things to have other mechanics get the job so you may even cop some DHT (dick head tax) on top of you invoice and diognoise/code clearing labour time. |
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