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01-08-2013, 08:43 PM | #1 | ||
The 'Stihl' Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TAS
Posts: 27,591
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Who have you guys been using?
Also Im assuming its ok to drive around without it in place? Is there any steps for removal as I need to be careful in protecting the dash spear. Any tips would be great. Cheers
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01-08-2013, 09:26 PM | #2 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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Hi Polyal, if it's just failing segments, you don't need to send it off to anybody if you are the slightest bit handy and are prepared to have a go. Firstly to get the CC out you first need to remove the clock surround. This I can't really help you with as mine was already broken when I bought my car and my surround just virtually sits in place ... but, it's held in with 2 plastic tabs on stalks, one each side of the surround at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions. The 3 o'clock one is shorter than the 9 o'clock and that is the one that'll bereak first if you lean on it I reacon as that's the one broken on my surround. I think the idea is to gently push the surround sideways from the 3 position and flex the 9 o'clock tab and prise out the 3 tab, good luck.... anyway, once you get that off there's a screw behind it. Undo the screw and pull the whole cc unit out of the dash from that side. It just hooks into the dash at the other end. In behind is a flexi tube which connects to a heat sensor and 2 plugs. The cables aren't too long so the whole unit will only slide out just enough for you to unclip the plugs and the tube. Then the unit will come out.
The back of the unit clips together with the fascia by tabs all the way round. Lift the tabs one at a time and put pressure on the two halves as you go and once you get the first side to release the rest is easy. When you get the back off make sure you hold the fascia face down when you lift the guts out or the clock adjuster buttons will fall out . The whole job is a bit fiddly the first time but with patience and some common sense you should be able to do it without too many dramas. Then just do what I did HERE and I garuentee you'll have a perfectly working unit. I did mine the way it's described in that thread and it works perfectly, in fact better than it ever did. The Nalclips look to be a better idea but I didn't know about them at the time. It should allow you to not have to cut the cc casing like I did . Then just put the whole thing back together and put it back in the dash. Hope that helps. Cheers Bushbasher
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . Last edited by Bushbasher; 01-08-2013 at 09:34 PM. |
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01-08-2013, 09:50 PM | #4 | ||
The 'Stihl' Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TAS
Posts: 27,591
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Cheers guys, yeah I know people charge about $150 or so, Bushbusher Ill give that fix a go with those clips from office works.
Has anyone else had success with that method?
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01-08-2013, 09:54 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Salamander Bay
Posts: 5,427
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Try this thread http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11396204
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Everyone starts off with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the experience bag before the luck bag is empty. "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." Start a new career as a bus driver Rides: FG2 XR6 stock at this stage but a very nice ride xc 4 DOOR X CHASER 5.8 UNDER RESTO |
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