Power steering pump in AUII, is it hard to replace?

[firebladejr]

ok, the power steering pump is running dry every 3 days or so, time for a reco'd pump or seal kit. My preference is towards the reco as I'm not looking forward to pulling one apart, then worrying about it leaking again or not because I didn't put a seal in properly...

Is it a hard job to swap the pump over? I'm looking at doing it on a saturday morning and I'm wondering if it can be done in a few hrs.. I'm pretty good with cars and don't see any major issues, but unfortunately I haven't had the chance to look under the bonnet to see how it connects to the steering rack.. is it via a ball joint type setup, or simply with pulleys & belts?

I'm hoping for the latter.

Cheers,
Peter.

[Racecraft]

check it is the pump leaking.. 99% of the time it is the fittings on the lines running from the pump to the rack

If it is the pump it is only a 15 minute job to replace.. Remove the fan belt, undo the hose clamp and brass fitting on the back if the pump,
Turn the pulley so you can access the 2 bolts on the front, and then undo the large nut on the back
Lift it out and slot the new one in..

[firebladejr]

thanks racecraft, exactly what I was looking for.

[ReVd_uP]

racecraft, this 'fan belt' your talking about, what fan does it run??? :



sorry mate, im in one of those moods :

[firebladejr]

racecraft, you were spot on.. it's not the pump leaking (although I think I now wish it was), but it appears to be dripping where all the connectors meet the rack. Excuse my lack of technical terms here, but it is the blue thing with a ball-joint in it with 2-3 hoses coming out of it and 1 electrical connector... funnily enough it appears to be leaking from where the electrical connector meets the blue thing. Is this bad? Any ideas on what would need replacing? I might try and get some pics up if that would help.

Cheers,
Peter.

[Racecraft]

it could be the rack switch... unplug the connector and you need a thin 13/14mm spanner to get it out..

Another tip (and don't ask me why this happens) is to check the high pressure line going into the rack is tight.. I have seen a few work loose and a quick tighten seals them back up

[firebladejr]

ok, here's a pic.

I've circled the area that is wet, and numbered two locations.
Location 1 - This appears to be the origination of the leak, as the fluid is covering this area really good.

Location 2 - I had to put this in as it is in a higher position than location 1, and common sense says that gravity doesn't allow liquid to drip upwards. The only thing to note here is that the black hoses are not wet at all and the brass hose fitting is bone dry.

ideas?

[Mechan1k]

Seeing as it is under high pressure ... it can spray ... any bloody direction as well.

I had to replace my rack as well as it was making a hell of a clunking noise. Not a fun job ... but was good practice mucking around with it.

High pressure lines are not cheap either ... if you need to replace the high pressure line make sure you fit the teflon O-ring on the fitting going into the back of the reservoir.

How many kays as the car done????

[firebladejr]

150k's... hmmm this doesn't sound very nice :( hopefully it doesn't cost too much

[Mechan1k]

That's about the kays I had on the ute when i had the power steer pump and high pressure line replaced ... I think my rack was done at that time too.

[Racecraft]

definately looks like the switch is leaking in pic 1...

I dont see a pic 2 :P

[Mechan1k]

Tibbo ... there's a No. 1 and No.2 in the one pic ... inside the oval ... there's a 1 at the top and a 2 at the bottom.

[Racecraft]

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

Tibbo ... there's a No. 1 and No.2 in the one pic ... inside the oval ... there's a 1 at the top and a 2 at the bottom.

lol yea I see it now... Thanks Simon, my money is still on the rack switch

[Mechan1k]

Yeah ... do the switch first ... then soak everything in degreaser and clean ... then inspect after a couple of days

If it's still leaking ... you should know where it's coming from after that.

[AU-MUSTD]

It'll be the switch as it's happened to mine as well. Usualy pick new ones up from ebay for 20 bucks or about 50 at repco. Make sure you dont over tighten it when you put the new one in as it threads very easy resulting in a new rack for you as i found out the hard way. It is also a ***** to get to the nut.

[firebladejr]

you blokes are champs.. thanks for the help. Hopefully it's just the switch..
btw, what would a new rack be worth?

[firebladejr]

Looks like it was the rack switch. I purchased one from Repco ($31) and swapped it in on Saturday night. Took about 30 mins, 25 of which were spent figuring out how to fit an open-ender in there. As soon as I popped the clip off the switch I could tell that's where it was leaking from as the clip was full of power steering fluid.

For anyone that needs to do the same thing, it's **** easy once you get a spanner on the switch.. the easiest way in is to put the ring end of the spanner up in near you exhaust manifold, then bring the open end down onto the switch.. you'll get about 1/4 of a turn each go but it still gets the job done.

Thanks for all the advice fellas.

Cheers,
Peter.

[aussiblue]

A crows foot spanner is much easier and be warned by one who was caught out; while the replacements are 14mm some of the originals require a 9/16" spanner.

[fordon]

how do you bleed the power steering fluid?

[aussiblue]

To bleed:

ensure engine and power steering fluid is cold.

a) fill pump reservoir to cold level and replace cap
b) Run engine for 2 to 3 seconds to drive pump
d) top up
e) repeat until the level stays constant
f) drive the car so the front wheels are on some glossy magazines (playboy mags perhaps or even Holden/Toyota etc sales brochures) or turntables so they can turn easily with little resistance.
g) with the engine running turn the steering wheel rapidly from lock to lock just and only three (3) times.
h) stop engine and if necessary top up.

This assumes you have already drained some doing a repair; if not drain by:

a) Removing the existing fluid in the reservoir with a roasting baster or similar and top up with new clean fluid.

B) Then remove the pressure switch and running the engine with wheels straight ahead (do not turn wheels while draining) with cap off the pump reservoir and only drain enough so the level reservoir at the pump just drop to the bottom (this is a two man job one watching the level and one ready to switch off on cue and replace the switch asap).

[aussiblue]

Vital cheap and disposable automotive tool:



Roasting baster. Also useful for:

a) Removing brake fluid and power steering fluids from overfilled reservoirs.
b) Adding fluid to batteries.
c) Topping up diffs and gear boxes (if are prepared to be patient you don't have an oil pump).

[GK]

A good and helpful thread guys!

Cheers,

GK