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Old 22-12-2007, 02:13 PM   #1
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Default Launching an I6 at the track

Whats it like launching from the line?
Is it instant wheelspin if you have it stalled up?
Im getting a helmet after xmas and would like to have as much knowledge before I go to WSID.

My transmission guy said, I got maybe 8 months life left out of my auto, this was like 10 months ago, might aswell set a benchmark with the slowing dying auto hey.

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Old 22-12-2007, 02:25 PM   #2
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lol launching hmm... Put it in Nutral rev it up to around 4500rpm and click it to Drive when the light goes green.
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Old 22-12-2007, 02:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by stiddy
lol launching hmm... Put it in Nutral rev it up to around 4500rpm and click it to Drive when the light goes green.
This would probably give you the best launch, but I'm not sure if you'd make it down the remainding 350mtrs of the track.
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Old 22-12-2007, 02:31 PM   #4
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LOL ahh ive done worse.. NA fairlane, 6200rpm D SLAM.. left the diff all over the road. haha
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Old 22-12-2007, 02:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
This would probably give you the best launch, but I'm not sure if you'd make it down the remainding 350mtrs of the track.
that would be my guess to lol
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Old 22-12-2007, 02:57 PM   #6
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No burnout, bit of PSI out of the tyres (I run about 28 in my 235/45 17's), Foot on the brake HARD, put your foot down till it nearly is breaking traction, on the last ORANGE light, let your foot off the brake and mash the accelerator.
I pulled a couple of 2.19's on a stock auto driveline using this technique (3.08's, no LSD, no stall).
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Old 22-12-2007, 03:03 PM   #7
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does it hook up good, no pedalling the throttle ?
Ill be using my 45, 235, 17" kelly chargers
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Old 22-12-2007, 03:03 PM   #8
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Yeah if your running street tyres you want them cold so no skids
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Old 22-12-2007, 03:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Monty
No burnout, bit of PSI out of the tyres (I run about 28 in my 235/45 17's), Foot on the brake HARD, put your foot down till it nearly is breaking traction, on the last ORANGE light, let your foot off the brake and mash the accelerator.
I pulled a couple of 2.19's on a stock auto driveline using this technique (3.08's, no LSD, no stall).

yep thats the way, i can launch my el turbo this way, run low 13 with no wheelspin at all, can launch with 5psi on the guage and still hook up so u should hav no probs at all

helps to hav good rubber tho

best of luck
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Old 22-12-2007, 03:13 PM   #10
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the track is about 1000x stickier than the road mate
my 2400 stall worked GREAT at the track..
on the street its all wheel spin LOL
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Old 22-12-2007, 03:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackers10
the track is about 1000x stickier than the road mate
my 2400 stall worked GREAT at the track..
on the street its all wheel spin LOL
I thought it would be the other way around on street tyres.
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Old 22-12-2007, 04:05 PM   #12
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How about those of us with a third pedal? I have no idea how to launch my car properly yet. Its either bog down or sideways action! Whats the best technique for a manual I6?

Evan
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Old 22-12-2007, 04:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ClassicAU
How about those of us with a third pedal? I have no idea how to launch my car properly yet. Its either bog down or sideways action! Whats the best technique for a manual I6?

Evan
you need some practise . minimum spin and dont drop the clutch , modest revs and drive it away then work out from there what hooks up best .
couple of goes and you will realise sideways or spins are slow.
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Old 22-12-2007, 05:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ClassicAU
How about those of us with a third pedal? I have no idea how to launch my car properly yet. Its either bog down or sideways action! Whats the best technique for a manual I6?

Evan
Drop the clutch at about 2500 to 3000rpm, then feather the throttle to avoid wheelspin, then grab second - no clutch, off the throttle though. Then 3rd (will need clutch for that one), then fourth (no clutch).
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Old 22-12-2007, 05:22 PM   #15
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Doesn't all this special "preparation" kinda ruin the fun? It's like cheating.

Imagine if you had someone pull you back on an elastic rope and then let you go in a baton relay.

Nothing wrong with a normal launch.
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Old 22-12-2007, 05:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobman
Doesn't all this special "preparation" kinda ruin the fun? It's like cheating.

Imagine if you had someone pull you back on an elastic rope and then let you go in a baton relay.

Nothing wrong with a normal launch.
how is it like cheating? is it cheating to come on the forums and ask for a diagnosis on a problem with your car? or should you just go in blind? little extra info can go a long way as i'm sure you know.
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Old 22-12-2007, 06:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JC
Drop the clutch at about 2500 to 3000rpm, then feather the throttle to avoid wheelspin, then grab second - no clutch, off the throttle though. Then 3rd (will need clutch for that one), then fourth (no clutch).
No clutch?!? Wouldn't that just shatter the gearbox? Sounds pretty scary, I don't know if i am that game to get a good time!

Evan
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Old 22-12-2007, 10:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ClassicAU
No clutch?!? Wouldn't that just shatter the gearbox? Sounds pretty scary, I don't know if i am that game to get a good time!

Evan
i'm with you i don't think the old t5 would last to long changing gears without the clutch.

when i launch i do a little bit of a skid to dry the tyres,then stage it.i try to hold the rpm around the 3500/3800 mark and just let it out and plant the right foot at the same time.
if the tracks a bit slippery i laucnh around the 2000rpm mark slipping the clutch a bit.
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Old 22-12-2007, 10:15 PM   #19
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No clutch?!? Wouldn't that just shatter the gearbox? Sounds pretty scary, I don't know if i am that game to get a good time!

Evan
Not really. You only need a clutch so that you can get the car in gear - the clutch come sin handy to match engine and gearbox speed. You can change gears from 2-3 and 3-4 without a clutch with some practice - don't force it in, just glide it in, and if it grinds, then revert to using the clutch, get road speed back up and try again. The trick is in getting engine and gearbox speeds to match, and it will just slip into gear. I used to change those gears in my AU1 XR8 without the clutch quite often (especially at a traffic light derby to the speed limit). Never had an issue with the gearbox in the 18 months I owned it. Of course, if you're too scared/worried/nancy-boy (lol) to try, that's fine - use the clutch; it only takes a poofteenth longer to change gears using the clutch than not anyway.

Now I know they're different gearboxes and gearsets etc, but V8 Supercars generally only use the clutch pedal to leave the start line and the pits - most drivers don't need a clutch to change gears - especially up, and some (like Greg Murphy) even use no clutch when changing down.

There's a resonable article/discussion about changing gears without a clutch here (and the last paragraph is a good guide on how to do it):
http://www.se-r.net/transaxle_clutch/clutch_not_to.html
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Old 22-12-2007, 10:15 PM   #20
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Joe just give me a call when your going and if I am around Ill come with you.From there well get the best out of the beast.
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Old 22-12-2007, 11:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Not really. You only need a clutch so that you can get the car in gear - the clutch come sin handy to match engine and gearbox speed. You can change gears from 2-3 and 3-4 without a clutch with some practice - don't force it in, just glide it in, and if it grinds, then revert to using the clutch, get road speed back up and try again. The trick is in getting engine and gearbox speeds to match, and it will just slip into gear. I used to change those gears in my AU1 XR8 without the clutch quite often (especially at a traffic light derby to the speed limit). Never had an issue with the gearbox in the 18 months I owned it. Of course, if you're too scared/worried/nancy-boy (lol) to try, that's fine - use the clutch; it only takes a poofteenth longer to change gears using the clutch than not anyway.

Now I know they're different gearboxes and gearsets etc, but V8 Supercars generally only use the clutch pedal to leave the start line and the pits - most drivers don't need a clutch to change gears - especially up, and some (like Greg Murphy) even use no clutch when changing down.

There's a resonable article/discussion about changing gears without a clutch here (and the last paragraph is a good guide on how to do it):
http://www.se-r.net/transaxle_clutch/clutch_not_to.html

wow thats very interesting, i never knew that was possible. But after reading it, it makes sense.

what about flat changing? not letting your foot of the accelerator and a bit of clutch... could a stronger clutch handle it? and the gearbox?
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Old 23-12-2007, 12:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
Yeah if your running street tyres you want them cold so no skids

what?
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Old 23-12-2007, 01:35 AM   #23
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wow thats very interesting, i never knew that was possible. But after reading it, it makes sense.

what about flat changing? not letting your foot of the accelerator and a bit of clutch... could a stronger clutch handle it? and the gearbox?
You can flat change if you want - but remember the car will be bouncing off the rev limiter. I reckon flat changing would be worse than changing without the clutch.
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Old 23-12-2007, 07:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
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what?
Street tyres dont like heat, they get hot, they loose there stickiness. On the street is different, you want them warm, but deffinately not hot.
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Old 23-12-2007, 09:24 AM   #25
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Well at the moment, I have 2 techniques that Im going to try. Whether I get the same result on the track is a different story.
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Old 23-12-2007, 09:24 AM   #26
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Street tyres dont like heat, they get hot, they loose there stickiness. On the street is different, you want them warm, but deffinately not hot.

interesting tyres you guys got there ...

i consistenytly run better times with warmed up "street" tyres and that is backed up by every vehicle (falcon, commodore, subaru, nissan) i have ever raced on the strip (and that has been a few over the years)
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Old 23-12-2007, 10:00 AM   #27
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A few years back I was having the same argument, trying to tell some guys I worked with that your better off not pulling a skid, streets work better cold. After an hour of wasted words, I went out to a private road with them and gave them a demonstration of what I was talking about. Even after them seeing for themselves they continued to argue the point because rubber is rubber. Anyway, EvilChief, whatever works for you.
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Old 23-12-2007, 10:15 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by stockoau
A few years back I was having the same argument, trying to tell some guys I worked with that your better off not pulling a skid, streets work better cold. After an hour of wasted words, I went out to a private road with them and gave them a demonstration of what I was talking about. Even after them seeing for themselves they continued to argue the point because rubber is rubber. Anyway, EvilChief, whatever works for you.
Track stickiness etc is totally different to what you call a "private road". Warm rubber and the drag strip go hand in had to provide a better launch. Warm rubber and the street go hand in had to provide better grip. Cold rubber is only useful in packets, and even then, it is only potentially useable - it actually gets better use wet and warm.
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Old 23-12-2007, 10:24 AM   #29
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All I know is both on the strip (No not in a falcon) and private roads I have found I had better launches and less wheel spin if I didn't pull a skid first.
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Old 23-12-2007, 12:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiddy
lol launching hmm... Put it in Nutral rev it up to around 4500rpm and click it to Drive when the light goes green.
just like a drive train only crunchy
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