AU Scantool Experiments (codes/live data!)

[auIILTD]

My guess without seeing the software or the hardware, is that this data you are seeking will vary between ECUs or families of ECUs. With my Quarterhorse tuning, I rely on a strategy file - which is effectively a memory map between the software and the ECU memory locations of each PID. Strategy files vary between the different ECU families, so my guess, no one database, if it existed will cover all ECUs and PIDs.

For the sake of $10, I have bought a ELM327 to check it out. I know my tuning software has the ability to report OBDII functionality which requires a strategy loaded. I will report back when and if I can find out more when my scanner turns up.

Cheers
Stu

[Evgeni]

Originally Posted by Strattos

Awesome thread and info. Just bought an ELM327 and with FORScan works perfectly.

However, is there a database somewhere with what the correct values should be for many of the PIDs?

I'm trying to identify bad o2 sensors, and while I'm getting the readings fine through the live data feed off FORScan, I don't know if the readings are good or bad as I've got nothing to compare them to.

Would be helpful for many of the other areas as well.

Hi Mate,
Normal narrow band O2 sensors will switch above 0.5v and below 0.5v in closed loop. The reason they switch is that the computer will adjust the pulse width of the injectors once it receives a signal from the o2. <0.5v equates to lean and >0.5v for rich. It switches from rich to lean in order to obtain the ideal stoichiometric. This would be the first sign of life when inspecting the o2.
To check o2 response, pull a vacuum line somewhere. You want to see voltage drop towards zero.
To check computer response, you will need to identify the signal wire of the o2. There will be 2 heater wires reading battery voltage and a ground that should be <100mv. This will leave the signal wire. By using a test light, jump battery ground to the signal wire to simulate a lean signal. You should hear a change in RPM as the computer tries to add extra fuel to the mix.
Hope this helps.

[auIILTD]

Great post Evgeni.

Further to that, I have read that the reason the ECU will swing the mix rich to lean is to maintain the functionality of the catalytic converters. They go rich/lean to maintain the oxygen levels outputted. The swing will only go rich or lean by about 3% from stoich. Those with a ELM327 and Forscan will see this in their Short term fuel trims at idle.

Cheers
Stu

[Strattos]

Thanks heaps Stu and Evgeni.

My readings were between 1.7 and 1.74 in closed loop, so something's definitely a miss there by the looks. Way rich.

I'll do the more thorough testing Evgeni suggested and stop hijacking this thread!

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by Strattos

Thanks heaps Stu and Evgeni.

My readings were between 1.7 and 1.74 in closed loop, so something's definitely a miss there by the looks. Way rich.

I'll do the more thorough testing Evgeni suggested and stop hijacking this thread!

When it comes to narrowband o2 sensors, there is no such thing as way rich or way lean. Just rich and lean. As Evgeni mentioned, a value above is rich, below is lean. At idle, if you are measuring the voltage on the signal wire you should see it swing low as well. For a healthy o2 sensor, you need to see both high and low voltages.

I don't believe we are thread jacking. We are discussing the output you see from the scantool.

Cheers
Stu

[Evgeni]

When you get readings outside of the set parameters, it can be useful to backprobe the sensor directly. With the ELM you are seeing what the computer sees as opposed to what the output of the sensor is, in the case that there is a discrepancy in the wiring.
1.7v may represent a partial short to power on the heater circuit for example. Should this be the case, you can probe the sensor side of the harness with the harness to the o2 unplugged. The zirconium element in the o2 produces its own voltage, so you can eliminate any effects from other power sources. Anyway, just a theory.

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by Evgeni

When you get readings outside of the set parameters, it can be useful to backprobe the sensor directly. With the ELM you are seeing what the computer sees as opposed to what the output of the sensor is, in the case that there is a discrepancy in the wiring.
1.7v may represent a partial short to power on the heater circuit for example. Should this be the case, you can probe the sensor side of the harness with the harness to the o2 unplugged. The zirconium element in the o2 produces its own voltage, so you can eliminate any effects from other power sources. Anyway, just a theory.

In my data logging, I see HEGO logged values between 1.6 and 1.7 on the rich swings, but that is from a wideband o2 Sensor. Lean I see 0.06 and rich I see usually around the 1.6 level. HEGO is the simulated narrowband signal as reported by the ECU.

Stu

[mrapocalypse]

Adding to this, I have an AU3 XR6 (VCT, Manual). Have connected a bluetooth ELM327 and logged some data to see why it's running crap and using too much fuel.

Getting some weird values, up to 2.8V on o2 (same with new sensor) and 10 degrees C on the ECT. Does not seem to go into closed loop, and long term fuel trim is at 0% (because it isnt in closed loop ever I assume?)



Is anyone else getting weird spikes / errors on their oscilloscope in ForScan?

Have replaced the o2, leads, coil, air filter, VCT solenoid, oil, checked earths (were bad, cleaned them up).

Other values like MAP and IAT, spark advance, all seem OK, or at least in the ballpark.

[baboon]

From your data, it looks like the head temp is 100degC but your engine coolant temp(ECT) is 9degC. I think there is your problem, either ECT sensor is faulty, or wiring from sensor to ECU is faulty.

Hmm then again, Im not sure where the coolant sensor is on the AU's. What does your temp gauge on the dash read? Is it normal? or does it always read low temp?

I believe the ECT value needs to be closer to normal engine temp (80-93degC) for ECU to enter closed loop mode.

On the BA, I've had the thermostat stuck open, causing engine temp to stay cool and use more fuel. Might pay to check thermostat.

Good luck.

[mrapocalypse]

Cheers, yeah it seems Cylinder Head Temperature is the ECT in this case, had my stuffed for a while.
Forscan seems to be playing up, put the calculations into Torque pro last night and it gets good values.

The dash gauge is perfect, never goes above 1/3 to 1/2 really. I have to do some more diagnosis I think. It had a corroded earth clamp, but after fixing it theres been no change.

[Evgeni]

The temp sensor is in the back of the cylinder head on the drivers side and is pretty tight for access. If you need to access voltages, go to the tech resources and there is a pin out map for the electrical connector that is between the 5th and 6th intake runner. Makes life much easier.

Anyway, I get the same discrepancies on forscan. I believe it comes down to the sampling rate of the program and/or the programs ability to plot numeric values on a graph. The long time base in the scope facility is also not very useful.
Look at the injector pulse width for example. This should be a digital square wave - an on/off signal and what you have is something that is far from that.
The graph function will work for something like a tps, but anything quicker than that, which is pretty much everything else on the car, I would question the accuracy.
Don't want to be critical though - It is still a fantastic tool for reading codes, but there has to be some limitations when you are trying to look at something that exists from milli second to milli second.

[LaserBeam]

After reading this, i bought the ELM327 and downloaded Forscan but am unsure how to use them.

-What is the exact procedure for connection to the car/computer?

-Once connected, do i turn the Key to IGNITION?

-How do you use Forscan?
(what steps do you use to get the best info? How do i save that info?)

-How do i translate that info into usable information to sort out my car?

Many thanks. Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

[rvcapri]

Haven't used mine for a while, but here goes.

Originally Posted by LaserBeam

After reading this, i bought the ELM327 and downloaded Forscan but am unsure how to use them.

Note that the elm327 tools available online often don't work properly. I had to get a second one before I got the connections to work. I've heard of some people buying up to five of these things before they got one that worked.

-What is the exact procedure for connection to the car/computer?

Can't recall exactly, but the exact order in which you do things didn't seem to matter too much. Mine has a USB connection, so I plug the elm into my laptop, plug the elm into the OBD port. Next, I start of forscan on the laptop, then turn the key until the dash lights come on but without starting the engine. If everything works, forscan should now connect to the ECU and, after a minute or two, tell you the specs of your car (model, year etc.).0

-Once connected, do i turn the Key to IGNITION?

See above.

-How do you use Forscan?
(what steps do you use to get the best info? How do i save that info?)

The first thing to do is download diagnostic trouble codes in memory, I think it's just a matter of clicking on the DTC button on the left of the window. Any codes will be accompanied with a brief explanation. You need to view codes you get with some caution, as they may arise as a consequence of a fault other than what's indicated in the descriptions.

You then have the option of clearing the DTCs in memory, useful if you want to check for the re-occurrence of a problem.

The next function is to have forscan run some tests on the ECU. There are two types, key on engine off and key on engine running. Each one takes a minute or two where a series of commands is send to the ECU. Any problems encountered will be listed upon completion of the test. Again, the problems identified may be a symptom of another problem, so interpret the report with a grain of salt.

The final function I have used is the 'dashboard'. Here you can select a range of sensors around the car and have their outputs appear on a panel while the car is driving. Can be useful if you're tracking down runtime problems, but have someone else read these while driving...

Having been frustrated in the early years of my AU ownership by the lack of cheap diagnostics, this tool is heaven sent.

-How do i translate that info into usable information to sort out my car?

Many thanks. Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by FTe342

Ummmm? what did I tell you! That's one for me :

[LaserBeam]

Cool. Cheers for the help. I carried the PC to the car and plugged it all in.
But I get an error message saying that the ELM327 is a 'clone' and it will not work.

Can anyone tell me where to buy an ELM327 that will work for the AUII?

Every seller I ask says the ELM327 won't work on my car, but clearly it does as you guys are using it. If you guys have a 'link' to the place where you bought your working ELM327, that would be bloody great. Cheers. They all look the same to me. I can't use a wireless one as im using a PC.
Many thanks.

P.S. I bought my ELM327 v1.5 from ebay, just like the link posted here before.
It came with a little disc that gave my PC 2xViruses. I got the drivers from the manufacturer and they seem to work well.
Forscan starts up and gives me a couple of 'Good to go' ticks, then it says the ELM327 is a clone and it can't do anymore for me.

[Dauphin]

I've got a clone/generic ELM327 also and I downloaded and installed these 4 drivers, it all worked fine:

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/s...-obd2-software

[LaserBeam]

Originally Posted by Dauphin

I've got a clone ELM327 also. I installed these 4 drivers, it all worked fine.

Cheers mate. I downloaded those 4 drivers about 10 seconds before seeing your reply. Happy they worked for you. Glad i'm on the right track.
Keen to hook up the car to my PC. It's gonna be cool.

[Drecian]

I'm trying to diagnose an ABS warning light, but can't seem to find a 'Brakes' section in Forscan? I've tried cleaning the ABS sensors, but would rather work from specific codes than just throw money/parts at it without knowing what's broken.

Am I missing something or looking in the wrong part of the program?

[rmack]

Faults codes will be displayed on the DTC screen

[Tickford.]

So all I need to scan for fault codes on any AU (I, II and III) is a ELM 327 mini Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor, and FORScan Lite for Android and I should be able to read codes on my phone? Just checking.

Will both these also work with 2002 Ford Laser SR2 (Mazda 2.0 FSDE motor)?

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by xxxg

So all I need to scan for fault codes on any AU (I, II and III) is a ELM 327 mini Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor, and FORScan Lite for Android and I should be able to read codes on my phone? Just checking.

Will both these also work with 2002 Ford Laser SR2 (Mazda 2.0 FSDE motor)?

I highly recommend to stay away from the Bluetooth ELM327s, as I have heard may have dramas with them. Jump on the forscan forums @ forscan.org. Do some research there, and I reckon you will be in good stead.

Cheers
Stu

[Tickford.]

Originally Posted by auIILTD

I highly recommend to stay away from the Bluetooth ELM327s, as I have heard may have dramas with them.

Thanks. Yep, that rules out anything ELM327. Too risky.

If I'm going to do this, I'm thinking might as well get an adaptor that can be used on almost any OBD2 Ford from 1999>. Or even other makes.

The OBDLink MX looks like it's top shelf item. Specially reading the following in the description:

MX Bluetooth supports all legislated OBD-II protocols, plus advanced Ford & GM vehicle networks (MS-CAN and SW-CAN). MX Bluetooth works with all 1996 & newer cars and light trucks sold in the United States, and also supports EOBD, JOBD, and all other international variants of OBD-II. If you don’t require access to advanced Ford & GM networks, consider purchasing OBDLink LX Bluetooth.

But the price!!

Can anyone confirm a Bluetooth or USB type adaptor that works 100% with FORScan on AU-FG please?

[Yamonda]

I had a bluetooth ELM327 but it wouldn't communicate with my AU but worked on other cars.

I then bought this USB one off Ebay and works perfect with FORscan and works fine on the AU.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231269919...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[T MAN]

i use a elm327 wifi version and it works on my laptop and android phone

[Tickford.]

Originally Posted by T MAN

i use a elm327 wifi version and it works on my laptop and android phone

Is THIS it? Works 100% on AU-FG?

[T MAN]

no mine is a ebay one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELM327-OB...wAAOSw14xWOZTd

used it on au1 au3 ba and a toyota camry

[Tickford.]

Thanks. They both look like exactly the same unit.

What's the pro's and con's regarding Bluetooth vs WiFi? Can someone explain please?

[Tickford.]

Originally Posted by T MAN

no mine is a ebay one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELM327-OB...wAAOSw14xWOZTd

used it on au1 au3 ba and a toyota camry

So I bought the above adaptor.

And.....



Great. Now I'm stuck with an adaptor that does not work with FORScan.

[T MAN]

hmmm, i dont know what to say, its what im using, i actually used it today..

[Champ1978]

I recently bought a elm327 usb and downloaded forscan 2.2.5 software but as soon as I plug it into my au series 2 a message comes up unable to connect to vehicle please make sure the ignition key is on and try again so I've tried 7 times.in the left bottom corner it shows interface is connected but vehicle not could someone please help

[Dauphin]

Have you installed the drivers for the ELM327? The disc which came with mine was faulty so I downloaded the four drivers from here and it all worked without a problem:

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/s...-obd2-software