Rough idling AU3 XR8 (and some other stuff)

[SpeedBandit]

Hi guys and girls
I just bought an AU3 XR8, 220kw auto with 103k's on it. The idiot (Ford)dealer had used ULP in it, not PULP. It runs a little rough at idle (even after filling with PULP), coughs and misses. Only a bit, but enough to be annoying. It also has what sounds like tappet noise under power, goes away on over-run. Its a high frequency noise, can't hear it with the window open, or even standing next to the car revving it, but in the relative quiet of the cabin, it's audible.
Are the idling problems a result of some sort of carbon buildup from having ULP run through it?
Do these hand built engines have "special" llifters that would cause the noise? Or could it be injector noise?
Oh and while I'm having a whinge about an otherwise great car, my LH front wheel seems to be fouling the wheel arch and pulling the guard lip out. Is this a sign of undue suspension wear on that wheel? It has standard 17 inch rim/tyre combo.
But I LOVE my Tickford!
Any thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated!

[RG]

That will most likely be it pinging, very bad noise, cost me a small fortune (well not so small really). Put a bottle of octane boost in it and try to get rid of that fuel but don't hammer it until it comes right. About the idle, it's a V8 they aren't supposed to idle smoothly.

[SpeedBandit]

I'll try the octane boost, but I've had 98 PULP in it, all the ULP should be gone by now? Done about 600 k's so far, the first 50 with ULP, the next 300 with 1/2 ULP and 1/2 98, then full 98 for the next 250, but still makes the noise.
If it does screw up, I guess the dealer is up for a rebuild under warranty!

[philstoj]

If its pinging hard like you say, you are already doing damage to it, best to take it easy and get the dealer to sort it out...

Good luck if its a ford dealer though!

[SpeedBandit]

Rather than trust the Ford dealer, maybe someone can recommend a reasonably priced workshop in inner west Sydney who could have a listen and give me an unbiased opinion?

[b2tf]

Its definitely pinging, Ford are idiots for putting 91 in there when it clearly states they need 95 minimum.

Get the fuel out asap, run some 98 in it and try a battery reset.

[SpeedBandit]

Got 98 in it now.
What's a battery reset? Is it just a disconnect/reconnect? And how does this fix pinging? Not that I doubt, just trying to learn!

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Got 98 in it now.
What's a battery reset? Is it just a disconnect/reconnect? And how does this fix pinging? Not that I doubt, just trying to learn!

yeah thats right, just disconnect the battery for a few hours. it wont instantly fix the pinging but it'll reset the comp so that when you drive it with new fuel afterwards, it will "learn" your driving style and hopefully correct the pinging gradually. I would be very careful driving it if it is badly pinging though, dont give it a hard time.

[FRDTUF]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Got 98 in it now.
What's a battery reset? Is it just a disconnect/reconnect? And how does this fix pinging? Not that I doubt, just trying to learn!

It will reset the ecu, so it has to learn it self again, therefore adjusting to the higher octane fuel... _2:

[SpeedBandit]

Sounds reasonable! Thanks guys, will try it in the morning before I take it for another run.
Any ideas on the front left wheel fouling the guard? I had an AU2 Ghia as a company car for a while and it did it on the front RIGHT wheel on that one. Is this a common problem?

[b2tf]

I'm a bit stumped on the wheel one, Ive never heard of it happening unless the car is lowered. My ute is quite low and on the stock 17's it doesnt rub, not much clearance there either. Are the tyres the correct profile etc?

[SpeedBandit]

The Ghia had wrong sized tyres, but I just checked my XR and it has 235/45/R17's which according to the owners manual is the correct size.
I'm wondering if the previous owner hit a pothole or something and damaged the spring or shock.
I've disconnected the battery, and I will reconnect it in the morning and see how she runs.
Oh, and what's this EDIT I keep reading about?

[b2tf]

mmm, 235/45/17 is the right profile so im not sure what it would be.

the edit is basically a tune done on a dyno where the factory ECU program is "edited" (hence the name) to provide better performance etc. Common gain is around 10rwkw and a bucket load more torque. Ive had it done myself and am very happy with the results.

[SpeedBandit]

Thanks for your time on this b2tf!
I'll let you know how things go after a run tomorrow.
Fingers toes and everything else crossed!

[FTE217]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Rather than trust the Ford dealer, maybe someone can recommend a reasonably priced workshop in inner west Sydney who could have a listen and give me an unbiased opinion?

Matey a good guy is at Stanmore, the place is called Carneeds.
On Parramatta Rd, speak to Rob on 95192608.

[GK]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Sounds reasonable! Thanks guys, will try it in the morning before I take it for another run.
Any ideas on the front left wheel fouling the guard? I had an AU2 Ghia as a company car for a while and it did it on the front RIGHT wheel on that one. Is this a common problem?

Here's some info on how to do it and why etc. Originally posted by LG on AUfalcon.com.

WHY DO IT?
Often, resetting the ECU can give the car a fresh start, improving performance, economy and smoothness. It is recommended that an ECU reset is done after any modification to allow the computer to relearn the car and the driver.

PROCEDURE:
Disconnect the battery (Take off the positive terminal lead) for approx 40minutes to 1 hour.

Once reconnected do the following:

AUTO Transmission:
- Start car and idle in this sequence?
- 2 minutes idling with the transmission in drive and A/C on.
- 2 minutes idling with the transmission in drive and A/C off.
- 2 minutes idling with the transmission in neutral and A/C on.
- 2 minutes idling with the transmission in neutral and A/C off.
- Drive the car on the road, for at least 5 minutes under variable throttle positions.

MANUAL Transmission:
- Same as above, except put the transmission in gear for (drive).

Cheers,

GK

[SpeedBandit]

Seems the problem is not as sinister as first thought.
Took a mechanic friend for a spin, he's not a Ford specialist but has owned a few V8's, both injected and old school. As soon as we started off, he said "when are you gonna fix that exhaust leak?"
Seems I have some blowby on a header.
pfft pfft pfft pfft pfft pfftpfftpfftpfftpfft
Sometimes the simplest of things!
Oh and I've fallen even more in love with the XR.....now for a pet name heheheh

[JC]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Seems the problem is not as sinister as first thought.
Took a mechanic friend for a spin, he's not a Ford specialist but has owned a few V8's, both injected and old school. As soon as we started off, he said "when are you gonna fix that exhaust leak?"
Seems I have some blowby on a header.
pfft pfft pfft pfft pfft pfftpfftpfftpfftpfft
Sometimes the simplest of things!
Oh and I've fallen even more in love with the XR.....now for a pet name heheheh

Mine does the same thing about every 6 months - just make sure the car is cold when you tighten the manifold bolts - hot headers will burn the skin off your hand!

[NeishaXR8_347]

I just had all my intake and rocker covers off to check pre-load and whilst underthere i decided to check all bolts after my build being only 3000kms ago gaskets all relax. To my amazement one bolt on each exhaust port was loose as a goose. This is the 4th time in the 3000kms that they have gone damn loose.

Shaun

[J.C.]

Originally Posted by SpeedBandit

Hi guys and girls
I just bought an AU3 XR8, 220kw auto with 103k's on it. The idiot (Ford)dealer had used ULP in it, not PULP. It runs a little rough at idle (even after filling with PULP), coughs and misses. Only a bit, but enough to be annoying. It also has what sounds like tappet noise under power, goes away on over-run. Its a high frequency noise, can't hear it with the window open, or even standing next to the car revving it, but in the relative quiet of the cabin, it's audible.
Are the idling problems a result of some sort of carbon buildup from having ULP run through it?
Do these hand built engines have "special" llifters that would cause the noise? Or could it be injector noise?
Oh and while I'm having a whinge about an otherwise great car, my LH front wheel seems to be fouling the wheel arch and pulling the guard lip out. Is this a sign of undue suspension wear on that wheel? It has standard 17 inch rim/tyre combo.
But I LOVE my Tickford!
Any thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated!

Mate, this thing would have gone through a roadworthy for rego reasons. Sounds a little like a dodgy roadworthy to me. Get them to fit it for you. After all, sounds to me like they started the problem in the first place. There maybe some legal ground here for you to stand on. Not sure, but it maybe worth looking into.... especially if it is going to cost you an arm or a leg to repair.

Did you take the vehicle for a run before purchase? If so, did you notice anything along the lines of what you explained above?

[SpeedBandit]

Not really noticed anything adverse during the drive. I thought I heard something once but I put it down to their stupid choice of fuel. Took it pretty easy on the test except for a coupla squirts and it seemed ok.
The issue with the tyre fouling the lh guard has me concerned, but I think that is a simple fix perhaps due to spring sag or shock damage.
It's still under warranty, only bought it last week. I'm going to book it in with them, take their service manager for a run so I can make sure he hears the noise too, then show him the minor damage to the lip of the lf guard from tyre contact and see what they say.
Hope this doesn't become a name and shame.