$1200 wheel bearings!!!

[mr302xd]

Hi all
i took my car down to pedders for a check up of a few noises. I came back with a $1200 quote for the rear wheel bearings to be replaced!! Im pretty sure i can get it done ALOT cheaper than that!!

I also got told i need the intermediate shaft replaced on the steering. he wanted $488 for that, im not sure if thats a fair price but??

Your thoughts???

Frank

[james22]

hahahahah...... sorry... HAHAHAHAHA......














Ummm No..... You can near rebuild your front end, bushes etc for that much lol

[Pistonbroke]

Just what noises was it making? Mines making a noise at the back and $1200.00 is a BIG noise.

[mr302xd]

Its a clonking type noise at the left rear wheel.
i just couldnt belive $1200 just to change over the wheel bearings??

[Karnage]

did that include a super charger?

On a more serious note, if you have a trolley jack and chassis stands, and check the bearings yourself, also check your other bushes and the shock mounts (common fault)

as for the intermediate shaft needing replacing did they show you the fault?

[james22]

With all honesty dude, that sounds really rich. I'd be asking them exactly what is involved with $1200 bucks worth of work. Grab a quote of them if you can? Maybe you already have?

[mr302xd]

Ive beeen told before that it was the wheel bearing but just went to them for a second opinion. The place i wen to first only wanted $250 thats incl labour for one wheel bearing, so do the math x2 =$500. They told me that is parts, labour and a wheel alignment, which is the same as what my other mechanic offered

With the shaft, he didnt show it to me on my car he just showed me a display type thing on how it works, but my steering has a fair bit of play

Cheers frank

[b2tf]

Get the bearings from Bayford Parts on Ebay, DIY job to put them in and a wheel alignment. You will get out of it for under $300, then with the remaining $900 (if its really burning a hole in your pocket), put some good shocks in and it'll feel better than ever.

[GK]

Originally Posted by b2tf

Get the bearings from Bayford Parts on Ebay, DIY job to put them in and a wheel alignment. You will get out of it for under $300, then with the remaining $900 (if its really burning a hole in your pocket), put some good shocks in and it'll feel better than ever.

That's pretty good advice.

Don't let Pedders touch it, they are ripping you off.

There's got to be someone in the AU brotherhood in Sydney who would love a Saturday or Sunday project to help you out?

GK

[blackers10]

be sure to check your rear outter bushes
they are $440 for the set of 4 from ford (upper and lower each side)
they are like a ball joint thats in the shape of a bush
they are ONLY available from ford

also check out your upper strut mount(pull carpet back from behind seat and get a friend to bounce on the door sill to see if the shock pushes up and down(shouldnt move)

and the rear tie rods may be wearing out

[GK]

Originally Posted by blackers10

be sure to check your rear outter bushes
they are $440 for the set of 4 from ford (upper and lower each side)
they are like a ball joint thats in the shape of a bush
they are ONLY available from ford

also check out your upper strut mount(pull carpet back from behind seat and get a friend to bounce on the door sill to see if the shock pushes up and down(shouldnt move)

and the rear tie rods may be wearing out

Blackers, I take your point that there are plenty of other things that can go wrong in the rear end, but he's only mentioned wheel bearings.

Surely he would have mentioned a list like yours if that was what they gave him?

GK

[blackers10]

very true GK but just thinking of things that may cause a clunk in the rear that arnt wheel bearings etc
it was $440 plus about $500 to put them in (whole IRS cradle needs to be removed to press them out)

[sanjay]

eh? youve already seen my thread on wheel bearings for my XR6 with IRS, only $198 per bearing in the rear.

[GK]

Originally Posted by blackers10

very true GK but just thinking of things that may cause a clunk in the rear that arnt wheel bearings etc
it was $440 plus about $500 to put them in (whole IRS cradle needs to be removed to press them out)

It's certainly true that IRS could add to the labour costs of other items.

Go the live rear end, especially if it's equipped with 3:7 gears! LOL!

Cheers,

GK

[RG]

Originally Posted by GK

Blackers, I take your point that there are plenty of other things that can go wrong in the rear end, but he's only mentioned wheel bearings.

Surely he would have mentioned a list like yours if that was what they gave him?

GK

If the mech is quoting $1200 for bearing there is a fair chance he doesn't know anything about an AU. The first thing I'd be looking at to fix a clunking noise is the upper shock mounts, you'd be surprised how many mechanics have never even heard of them.

[GK]

Originally Posted by Russell

The first thing I'd be looking at to fix a clunking noise is the upper shock mounts, you'd be surprised how many mechanics have never even heard of them.

I guess there's a stack of mechanics who have never owned one, although that issue is very well known here for sure!

GK

[mr302xd]

Originally Posted by Russell

If the mech is quoting $1200 for bearing there is a fair chance he doesn't know anything about an AU. The first thing I'd be looking at to fix a clunking noise is the upper shock mounts, you'd be surprised how many mechanics have never even heard of them.

the clunking noise get faster with the speed of the car and louder when all the weight is on the rear left wheel

[mik]

Originally Posted by mr auxr8

Hi all
i took my car down to pedders for a check up of a few noises. I came back with a $1200 quote for the rear wheel bearings to be replaced!! Im pretty sure i can get it done ALOT cheaper than that!!

I also got told i need the intermediate shaft replaced on the steering. he wanted $488 for that, im not sure if thats a fair price but??

Your thoughts???

Frank

do your self a favour Mr auxr8 should you have a go at doing the rear wheel bearing/s your self , take the the upright and hub to a ford dealer or a work shop with a well equipped press, because if they dont have the correct tools the upright starts to bend like a banana . removing the the upright/hub assembly is not too hard at all it just pressing the old bearing off and on that is the most difficult if your not equipped with a decent tool set and balljoint remover + a puller to remove the hub and upright from the half shaft i would think twice about doing the job, perhaps one of our sponsors could offer a c/o that would make the job considerably easier. i had a go at doing mine on the weekend and my mates press did not have the required tool/supports for the upright (its an odd shape) hence i needed the car for the week i had to put it back together as it was :(.

[mik]

Originally Posted by mr auxr8

the clunking noise get faster with the speed of the car and louder when all the weight is on the rear left wheel

while your at it check your universals and half shafts.

[JOSH]

most common problem with a irs au falcon is the upper strut mounts, every set of shocks on the back of an au ive replaced they have been buggered. another easy way to check is to jack the side up with the wheel hanging and get a long bar under the wheel and try levering it up. if it moves up and down the mount is rooted.

[Pistonbroke]

I'm starting to think that my rear bearings are stuffed. I get the same clunking noise that goes faster with speed. I complained to my ford service guy, and he said it was just road noise. He pointed to my Dunlops and said they are the reason. Well they got replaced with Firestones recently which are supposed to be quiet on the road. Effing no difference. I replaced the shock mounts last year. They only made noise over bumps. The noise is getting louder and starts as soon as I start moving. Ford service are #$#$%???

[RG]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-t...QQcmdZViewItem
Wheel bearings, $85 each for an AU with IRS. I can't see how labour could be $1000.

[honer]

Originally Posted by mik

do your self a favour Mr auxr8 should you have a go at doing the rear wheel bearing/s your self , take the the upright and hub to a ford dealer or a work shop with a well equipped press, because if they dont have the correct tools the upright starts to bend like a banana . removing the the upright/hub assembly is not too hard at all it just pressing the old bearing off and on that is the most difficult if your not equipped with a decent tool set and balljoint remover + a puller to remove the hub and upright from the half shaft i would think twice about doing the job, perhaps one of our sponsors could offer a c/o that would make the job considerably easier. i had a go at doing mine on the weekend and my mates press did not have the required tool/supports for the upright (its an odd shape) hence i needed the car for the week i had to put it back together as it was :(.

Agreed. Doing mine at the moment (Granted, entire IRS is out.. That was extremely easy to do !!!) Most difficult problem I had as well was getting them out.. $20 a local mob charged me.. Bearings cost me $80 a pair... Will have them pressed back in and off we go !

[itsabitsa]

Originally Posted by Russell

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-t...QQcmdZViewItem
Wheel bearings, $85 each for an AU with IRS. I can't see how labour could be $1000.

prob using genuine parts, irs comes as part of the hub $320 each side at trade bout 400 labour at a dealer :

[Muzza]

Doing my rear bearings at the moment.
They are $135 each from Ford.
The precisely IDENTICAL (NTN brand) bearing from CBC bearings are $45 each.
That's $90 a piece for the Ford cardboard box !!!

Pressed them out and in myself ... local servo allows me to use his press whenever needed
Only hard part was assembling the right pieces of steel to use when pressing them out.

I am also getting the 1/2 shafts checked and repacked at the same time at a CV place up the road.

[5.0 ED]

Did them myself too not so long ago, both on mine and fairlane, bearings were $80 each from ford, When doing both of them we had a lot of problems pressing one of the bearings out, had a good brace on it and all, but wouldn't budge, had to heat it up to get it to move.

Blackers 10 - those bushes are actually called ball joints by ford, i had a lot of problems trying to get them cause i was calling them a bush, and he kept saying ball joint, and im like there is no rear ball joints, well i was wrong, i paid $160 a pair from bayford.

[Mechan1k]

If you are after good suspension place in Sydney ... even though you may have to travel out west to see them ... get Wholesale suspension to check everything over for you.

I have been there on numerous occasions ... there work is excellent ... and they don't charge that much either.

Their safety check is free and will actually show you the problems on your car.

I just got my driver's top ball joint done ... along with getting a rack boot replaced and swaybar D-bushes done .. all up was $225 inc. labour ... and that included a wheel alignment as well. Not bad from a workshop really.

I found a few Pedder places to be rip-offs really.

[Muzza]

OK, finished my rear end rebuild this arvo.

The problems were:-
Rumble from rear left.
Heaps of clunking from the back (mostly the RHS 1/2 shaft but also the diff).
Diff chatter on RH cornering.
Very annoying diff whine at 100kph.

Replaced:-
2 rear bearings (LHS one was totally stuffed) - $96
2 pack nuts - $56
Both 1/2 shafts reco'ed incl new boots - $250
Preloved Diff - $350
Penzoil diff oil and additive - $35
Noltec rear lower shocker bushes - $80
Shear mounts - $160
King Springs (rear pair) - $140

Total = $1,165 plus about 8 hours of my time.

I also installed Koni shocks in the rear but those (and the front pair) were "payment" for some work I did so am not counting that as a cost.
BTW, I did a bearing replacement a couple of years ago for a friend and bought the 36mm socket and made the hub removal jig (tool 205-466-1) back then.... saved me time yesterday.

Well, all noises solved... runs nice and quite.
Handling has improved and still front shocks and bushes to be done.
The $350 diff works well... that's a pleasant surprise, they said it was a good one (out of an XR8 that was only driven gently to church on Sundays) and it appears that they told the truth

BTW... took about another hour to make a shaft extractor attachement for the slide hammer.... not counted above wrt time taken.
Still have the front to do (Noltec bushes in lower arms, Konis, Kings and Camber kit).

Info for Mr AUXR8.....
The parts cost, at retail, for the bearings and pack nuts was around $150.
The total time to remove and replace should be about 4 hours.
So, even at $100/hr for labour the cost should be around $550.

There are two traps in doing this piece of work:-
1. Seperating the hub from the 1/2 shaft...these have been know to freeze together.... A couple of years ago I had one in a vice with a heavy duty extractor tensioned to near breaking point whilst soaking in Penetrine for 4 days !!! before it let go.
Make sure they swave the hub spline with anti-seize when re-assembling.
2. Not having the correct tools i.e. the aforementioned 205-466-1 and shaft remover (see Technical Resources and doc on AU IRS Repairs)

Footnote... I am not a mechanic... just a well equipped hobbiest.

[SLYXT]

With the shaft, he didnt show it to me on my car he just showed me a display type thing on how it works, but my steering has a fair bit of play

Not sure if you got this fixed mate and i didnt read the whole thread as i have to head out soon but i can tell you this the shaft he is talking about is the steering coupling AU differ from other couplings as i have been told.
i got a quote from a place local here and he quoted.
1 - s/coupling $438
1 - labour $66
1 - W/A Toeonly $25
$529

i near fell over so went away and spoke to south coast ford and they refered me to a good wrecker and i picked up a coupling for $35 bucks which i can return if any probs but i have showed my mechanic and he said it would be fine and his fitting it tomorrow for $60.
$95 and problem is sorted. some may argue and say well its second hand wont last as long as the new coupling.. but its a chance im willing to take as 529 seems crazy!

cheers
Brad