Door Lock Fuse Blows

[GeoNazi]

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11248844

Iam having a problem like this

Hey people, just went for a drive to local shops and went to lock the car, no sounds of the door locks activating and then the car beeps 3 times to give the indication the car didn't lock.

I checked the fuses and the 30amp Door lock was blown, I went to replace that but it blew once I put it in, I then thought maybe cause the doors were open. I closed the doors and it blew again.

3 fuses, and the car is sitting there unlocked.

I havn't down anything to warrent creating a short. The car is exactly the same as it was on Monday and Tuesday. I am thinking something happened Tuesday night but I don't know, how can **** just break without warrant.

Just went out again and blew another 2 fuses.... I don't get it I have down NOTHING, haven't installed anything, havn't played with anything what the!!!!!

I just went around the car opened all the doors and eyed the loom and didn't see nothing outta the whack, checked the loom going to the boot also, which I had to crawl into too open. I can only lock the drivers door with the key.

Were could the short be? Bloody Hell!!!

I have moved my car under the car port and disconnected the battery... I had another look around the door jams and boot jam and doesn't look like nothing is pinched etc

Just had a thought that maybe that the power antenna loom is touching the body maybe?

I can find alot of material on EF/ELs but none on AU and the stuff i did find on AU's were actuator related.

Was on the Street Fords Forum and Sam suggested that I go round and unplug the door looms at a time and see if they have a fault but when I went out to the car and proceeded to unplug the drivers loom to start going one by one and I put my hand up the kickpanel area and it is VERY damp almost to the point of being wet?

Could the conbination of the wet weather the cold and foggy nights has put alot of condensation up there? Thus creating something for the power to ark with ( i may be wrong ) I have removed the carpet and alike and made some space for it to 'air' out to dry.

So the car is sitting outside with the battery unplugged and carpet pulled up... no that keen on playing with the power with wet damp area near the fuses.

Today I unplugged a few plugs and found they were wet. I got the missus hairdryer and dried all the wet area. Once dry I installed a fuse and it blew straight away. I am outta ideas

[GeoNazi]

:

[GeoNazi]

I unplugged the rear doors both left and right, put the fuse in again and it started to short so i pulled it out before it blew... I was going to remove the passengers side loom but it started to rain.

I have unplugged the drivers side earlier in the week and it blew so I assume it isn't the right front & rear doors. so If it blows when i remove the left front door loom it must be something else... and this means i will have to take it to the auto electricry

[Mr Hardware]

and this means i will have to take it to the auto electricry

wise move.

[GeoNazi]

Today I unplugged the door loom on the passengers side (all looms bar the drivers were unplugged) and fuse blew. And as I did this proir with the drivers door thus all door looms have been unplugged.

I rang a local sparky and he found it wierd, and said to look at it will cost me 50 to 100 dollars hmmm.

[GeoNazi]

I am leading to think, maybe my bcm is on it's way out or the fault exists near the loom that plugs into it.

[whiskers]

mate you might be better of taking it the sparky and forking out the $50/$100 at least you will have a better idea of what is happening, once he finds the fault and tells you, then you can go ahead and fix it.

[GeoNazi]

Well I unplugged and removed the BCM and SAP!!!! still blew..

Any ideas? Unless it is a direct short start to the body or something.

could a circuit with-out a gound blow fuses?

To recap..

All doors have been unplugged from main loom near doors.

Boot loom unplugged,

BCM unplugged.

Hmmm NO IDEA.

The auto elec is the last resort.... I just don't understand all the wires and alike look fine no damage or anything...

[GeoNazi]

I did find that the sound deadner on the sill is midly damp and that up near the area behind the fuses are "cold" doesn't feel damp just cold,

I have pulled the centre fascia out the cluster the fuse box holder, hmmm

[GeoNazi]

I have unplugged the cluster, a few looms removed the center facsia, removed BEM.

I got my fat *** put my head up and looked around and couldn't see no bare wires or loose items etc. I have look at the wire diagram for the central locking and I have up plugged all things.

I will have to go back to the libary and look at the manual again. I will give my self til monday to sort it out or i will bite the bullet and take it to the auto elec.

[Mr Hardware]

wow mate you must be hard up to do all this kinda fart-arseing around to save yourself a bit of coin
best of luck with it aye

[GeoNazi]

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

wow mate you must be hard up to do all this kinda fart-arseing around to save yourself a bit of coin
best of luck with it aye

Well I don't have a job, the missus don't have a job.. this is my only car for a family of four and between rent and food....

I am fartarseing around because I don't have money to spend....

A comment like that is useless, a more constructive reply like try this check this or that....

:

[bodes-sh]

have you got a multimeter? if you have, check for continuity between both sides of the fuse terminal and ground. this will at least give you an idea of where to look. check everything with a multimeter, especially between the output of the fuse and input to the bem. if a short is going to be happening anywhere it will more than likely be here. it is very hard to try and diagnose problems like this over the internet as i'm sure you have worked out by now. good luck sorting it out

[GeoNazi]

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

have you got a multimeter? if you have, check for continuity between both sides of the fuse terminal and ground. this will at least give you an idea of where to look. check everything with a multimeter, especially between the output of the fuse and input to the bem. if a short is going to be happening anywhere it will more than likely be here. it is very hard to try and diagnose problems like this over the internet as i'm sure you have worked out by now. good luck sorting it out

What setting should i put my multimeter on?

[Mr Hardware]

Start with Volts.

[GeoNazi]

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

Start with Volts.

what setting?

[Mr Hardware]

what have you got, 2V, 20V and 200V? If so, start with 20V as your car has a 12V system, and i *assume* that so will the electrical components. If it peaks out on 20V then go to 200, it just won't be as accurate.
But i think your problem would largely surround a spike in amperage, i mean thats what a fuse is there for, to stop a spike in amperage, thats why they are limited to a certain number of amps. Are you sure you are using the correct amperage fuse?
ps last time i took a car to an auto elecs i had fartarsed around for 2 hours getting nowhere and the auto elec charged me $20.

PS sorry i wasn't having a go at you before. Bad luck hey. Going to drive cabs anytime soon?

[GeoNazi]

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

what have you got, 2V, 20V and 200V? If so, start with 20V as your car has a 12V system, and i *assume* that so will the electrical components. If it peaks out on 20V then go to 200, it just won't be as accurate.
But i think your problem would largely surround a spike in amperage, i mean thats what a fuse is there for, to stop a spike in amperage, thats why they are limited to a certain number of amps. Are you sure you are using the correct amperage fuse?
ps last time i took a car to an auto elecs i had fartarsed around for 2 hours getting nowhere and the auto elec charged me $20.

PS sorry i wasn't having a go at you before. Bad luck hey. Going to drive cabs anytime soon?

I must scream it to the world, my excitement from the top of someplace very high.

I fixed it, I fixed it, *jumps round room like a little kid...

I put the car back together, I unplugged the towbar loom and the boot loom remains unplugged and the boot and fuel release switches and unlock/lock dash button...

So one of them are the problem..

Also..... My multimeter is : you can move it side to side on various settings and it displays something.

Thanks man for your imput,

Geoff.

[bodes-sh]

Originally Posted by GeoNazi

What setting should i put my multimeter on?

bit late now, but i would have started with ohms, this is for measuring resistance.

seeing as you may have found the problem, plug the boot loom back in, but leave the towbar loom unplugged. do you know if the car has had an electric brake controller installed at some stage? if it has, they may have tapped into the central locking wire for power...

may seem strange, but just a thought

[GeoNazi]

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

bit late now, but i would have started with ohms, this is for measuring resistance.

seeing as you may have found the problem, plug the boot loom back in, but leave the towbar loom unplugged. do you know if the car has had an electric brake controller installed at some stage? if it has, they may have tapped into the central locking wire for power...

may seem strange, but just a thought

Maybe, will have a closer look. tomorrow

[whiskers]

glad you got to the problem mate.