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Old 30-09-2005, 05:13 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buickman
I have used the ultimates . Besides the dust problem they chewed through the front rotors quick. I now use bendix advance which leaves hardly any dust & does not wreck the rotor so quick & still pulls up well. But I have IRS, Yokohama C drive 17" tyres & lowered springs with sportrider struts which help a lot in handeling & stopping.

Some guys spend money on performance on the engine to go faster only to leave the car with poor braking & nearly unroadworthy or secondhand tyres & stock suspension which are the main parts on saftey.

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That's why I am upgrading the suspension and brakes first ... I have already chucked on the 17" Territory wheels (heavy though ... but help with traction ... but loss in acceleration) with rubber.

I am lowering the ute 1.5" very soon ... have all the necessary parts to install (inc. new lower leaves with stronger 2nd stage for load carrying) ... got my coils made up for the front with shorter gas shocks as well.

Next big thing for me is the brakes.

THEN ... I'll look at increased power.

Plus I NEED pretty decent brakes for work anyway ... I am finding the AUII twin-piston stock brakes are only just capable for my work ... ONLY JUST.
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Old 30-09-2005, 05:19 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by buickman
I have used the ultimates . Besides the dust problem they chewed through the front rotors quick. I now use bendix advance which leaves hardly any dust & does not wreck the rotor so quick & still pulls up well. But I have IRS, Yokohama C drive 17" tyres & lowered springs with sportrider struts which help a lot in handeling & stopping.

Some guys spend money on performance on the engine to go faster only to leave the car with poor braking & nearly unroadworthy or secondhand tyres & stock suspension which are the main parts on saftey.

buickman
Each mod in its time mate.I think that its good that I am focusing on this now and being aware of the danger. I drive slow. If I get better brakes it will be a safer drive.

I did not expect the car to get that much quicker.
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Old 30-09-2005, 06:20 PM   #33
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IMO, if the ABS is kicking in often, then you do not have enough road grip (tyre). Bigger brakes will only make this worse.

Stav, when you say it "travelled another 1.5metres" are you talking about the distance between hitting the brakes and the car starting to slow down? I reckon you'll find during that is the front suspension compressing i.e. fit stiffer front springs (say from XR) and your car will start pulling up earlier.

I have AU1 brakes in a heavy V8 Ute with DBA rotors, and Ferodo TD2000 pads. The pads cost as much as the rotors, and work MUCH better than the std rotors with Bendix Performax pads.
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Old 30-09-2005, 10:58 PM   #34
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I think you are right on this.I will be getting som decent dba rotors and some super pads. The front shocks are new ?I may actually have a chat to Spiro on this topic as well.
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Old 30-09-2005, 11:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santoitaliano
okay...

change your pads to "Bendix Ultimate"
make a load of dust, but will allow you to stop on a ten cent piece...
Don't forget the brake squeel you'll also get :
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Old 30-09-2005, 11:24 PM   #36
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Stav as my sig says i fitted Dba slotted and ebc black stuff and a full set of braided lines and Yes the car is 100% better in slowing down no typical taxi feel.
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Old 30-09-2005, 11:43 PM   #37
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What is ebc black stuff?
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Old 01-10-2005, 08:57 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
Can anyone make suggestions for brakes on the au 1 wagon.I cant stop the car quickly.Its got me worried. The abs seems to let the car roll to far forward.Any help is welcome..it is a bit scary.
Forget the brakes for now, you need some decent tires.
If the ABS is working, that means you have a traction problem, not a brake problem.

The AU1 brakes aren't the greatest, but decent pads are really all you need for road use.

Bigger brakes are only an advantage if you are doing repetitive stops from 100k's or greater.

For 1 or 2 stops from 80 or so, the standard brakes, if in good condition with good tires, actually do a decent job.

Don't waste money on big brake upgrades if you're not using it on the track or 'spirited' driving on mountainess windy roads.
I believe most of your driving is in the city.

Tires, brake fluid, and pads, in that order. Then re-evaluate.

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Old 01-10-2005, 11:42 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Sox
Tires, brake fluid, and pads, in that order. Then re-evaluate.

Rick.
I agree with Sox. I paid almost a grand for a set of Yoko ES100's 225/45ZR16's and the difference a really good set of tyres makes is impressive.

I would say having seen them the tyres are your weakest link.
I would prbably say a change in wheels would be a good idea and a set of AUII futura rims with 225/50ZR16's or a set of AUII XR6 rims with 235/45ZR17's would be a great move. Still cheaper than the brake upgrade too.

Brakes wise I am running RDA slotted rotors and bendix ultimates and the brakes are very good for street driving more than adequate.
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:30 PM   #40
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Quote:
I will be getting the 4-pots when they are ready for mass production ... in the meantime I might just get myself a set of Tickford twin-pot calipers and then sell them later when the 4-pots are ready.
Mechan1k : Be sure to let us know when he releases the kits. I def be needing this for when I bolt on the turbo.
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Old 01-10-2005, 03:58 PM   #41
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Thanks guys.
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FG 1 2 and 3 gauge holder in stock now! https://stingraycar.com.au/shop/
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Old 01-10-2005, 05:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
Can anyone make suggestions for brakes on the au 1 wagon.I cant stop the car quickly.Its got me worried. The abs seems to let the car roll to far forward.Any help is welcome..it is a bit scary.
Sounds more like a booster problem more than tyres/ brake pads. Find a nice quite road and turn the engine off at about 60kmh, pump the brake pedal and compare this with the engine running.
P.S. removing key from ignition whilst trying this test is NOT recommended
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Old 01-10-2005, 06:20 PM   #43
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won't squeal if you put a bit of grease on the caliper where the pad travels horizontally...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moya
Don't forget the brake squeel you'll also get :
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Old 02-10-2005, 02:44 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbays
I agree with Sox. I paid almost a grand for a set of Yoko ES100's 225/45ZR16's and the difference a really good set of tyres makes is impressive.

I would say having seen them the tyres are your weakest link.
I would prbably say a change in wheels would be a good idea and a set of AUII futura rims with 225/50ZR16's or a set of AUII XR6 rims with 235/45ZR17's would be a great move. Still cheaper than the brake upgrade too.

Brakes wise I am running RDA slotted rotors and bendix ultimates and the brakes are very good for street driving more than adequate.
Got to agree there with Yokomahas I have had Goodyear16", Falken17", Simex17" & now the Yoko cdrive 235/45/17" which cost over a grand with a front & rear alginment & the difference is really noticeable in handeling & braking.
I always change the brake fluid yearly & never let the pads get to low before I change them. Being a series1 it still pulls up well for street & h/way use.
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:32 PM   #45
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Almost had an inncident last Sunday arvo on the Bruce Hwy at Caboolture
A moron with a old Commodore VH or VK with a overloded box trailer gets the death wobbles at 100k and jack knifes I am in the left land behind him and a bug eye STI REX was next to me the same speed and we both hit the skids when the Commonwhore lost it
Mine has the Premium brakes and I think the STI has Brembos ???? the big heavy Falcon pulled up to a complete stop about 2 car length before the REX - lucky there was no one behind us.
So IMHO the Premium brakes on these AU's are the ducks guts and that is stopping power :1syellow1
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:08 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by loxxr6
Mechan1k : Be sure to let us know when he releases the kits. I def be needing this for when I bolt on the turbo.
Trust me .... I will let you all know

Here's a pic on an E-series (after a bit of modification)
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