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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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11-04-2008, 11:19 AM | #1 | ||
416w 10.5@127mph
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 337
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hello ALL
Bollards (sorry if ive put this in the wrong section) Im looking at doing a bulk purchase/order of some bollards like seen below. Bollards are increasingly becoming an important feature in preventing motor vehicles from being taking from garages. Installation is easy, just drill 4 dyna bolt holes deep into the ground and its done, all is needed then is to go and buy a heavy duty lock. Depending on how many people are interested in the bollards, im thinking they will cost around $250 each. If I can get 20-30 people interested, I should be able to get them for about $200 each. If anyone is interested, please add your name onto the list Thanks 1.
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the Fleet - 360rwk XE ESP - 314rwk G6ET - 245rwk XR GT - 205rwk '67 Stingray |
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11-04-2008, 11:28 AM | #2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 295
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Thats a damn good idea. Too bad I don't have a car thats worth stealing :P
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11-04-2008, 11:49 AM | #3 | ||
Live Life To Full BOOOST!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Radelaide, SA
Posts: 58
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Ohh the size of your Garage! :O! I want i want!! That is a very good idea, this is going to sound like a really dumb question and probably is but how do you drive out? Do you just lift the "bollards" up, and if so how heavy are they?
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11-04-2008, 11:56 AM | #4 | ||
OMGORDZ
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SE, Melbourne
Posts: 2,352
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thats very pricey. Many - a - small sheetmetal workshop would do even one offs for less than that
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11-04-2008, 12:03 PM | #5 | |||
416w 10.5@127mph
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 337
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yeah you just undo the padlock and they slide out, they are not that heavy
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the Fleet - 360rwk XE ESP - 314rwk G6ET - 245rwk XR GT - 205rwk '67 Stingray |
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11-04-2008, 12:05 PM | #6 | |||
416w 10.5@127mph
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 337
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ive been ringing around and getting some prices, for a bit under 200 you will get ones that are fixed, for abit over 200 you will get ones that require the concreate to be drilled as they 15cm is required to go into the floor.
But ill ring a few sheetmetal places and see what they say Quote:
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the Fleet - 360rwk XE ESP - 314rwk G6ET - 245rwk XR GT - 205rwk '67 Stingray |
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11-04-2008, 12:28 PM | #7 | ||
Critical Thinker
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 20,409
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I dont think thats an unreasonable price for removable type bollards. Especially if your trying to protect your pride and joy.
I guess it depends on the manufacturer, style and design of the product and how user friendly the product is. http://www.imagebollards.com.au/removable.aspx http://www.okal.com.au/0/1/12/Lockab...-Bollards.html http://www.trafficguard.net/removable/index.html BTW - sorry to go off topic, but FRDPWR, you XE is my most favourite car on this forum. I bar up looking at the pics and videos you have of it. :
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11-04-2008, 12:48 PM | #8 | ||
Mr old phart
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Northern Terrorist
Posts: 1,715
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Good idea...just remember they are only as good as the padlock you use. A set of bolt cutters to deal with the padlock and the bollard is just as easy for them to remove as it is for you with a key.
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11-04-2008, 12:50 PM | #9 | |||
Cane Farmer
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tom Price, WA
Posts: 4,056
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I can see the value of doing this if say the car you wanted to 'protect' wasn't a daily driver. Would be very impractical if it was driven daily...
Do what I know a close friend has done to protect his genuine 327 HKS Bathurst Monaro....get a 1 tonne concrete block and dump it in front of the car!
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11-04-2008, 02:06 PM | #10 | |||
416w 10.5@127mph
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 337
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thats true the looks you choose are very important, the look i choose cost me 100 bucks each there supposed to be the highest rating locks, only way to cut through them is with a grinder and trust me thats gona make some noise plus my garage is fully alarmed, i guess im just when it comes to the security of my cars ;)
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the Fleet - 360rwk XE ESP - 314rwk G6ET - 245rwk XR GT - 205rwk '67 Stingray |
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11-04-2008, 02:10 PM | #11 | |||
416w 10.5@127mph
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 337
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thanks mate, its always a good feeling when someone apprecates all the hard work ;)
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11-04-2008, 04:50 PM | #12 | |||
He has, the Knack..
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,042
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We had one of these big f-off steel mechanisms for our boat trailer after we came back one day and someone had tried to nick off with our trailer. The lights and chain were disconnected from the 4wd, the only thing that stopped them was the little built in barrel lock. A screw driver was all they needed. Surpising how many actually get pinched! When the padlock is closed, it is physically not possible to get to the padlock loop. You have to manipulate the loop through the hole to get the key to face you. Combine that with an expensive padlock, and you will need serious gear and time (and make a lot of noise) to get it off.
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11-04-2008, 05:03 PM | #13 | ||
Lowriding
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cruising
Posts: 3,174
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I'm interested... I'll look into some serious locks too, I MIGHT be able to get a deal happening there also...
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11-04-2008, 05:33 PM | #14 | ||
Ex EL Falcon
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bris-bane
Posts: 683
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I had considered chaining my car's axles to metal U loops on the ground but I'm lazy and the car isn't really bothering to nick. I think the bollards that insert into the ground would be better though.
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11-04-2008, 06:30 PM | #15 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bundoora
Posts: 7,199
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If you did some hard yakka you could probably do a better version
You will have to get a concrete corer to drill or cut a hole into your concrete, concrete a gal sleeve into the hole with a heavy duty lid that flips down when bollard is removed. Get a bollard made by a local steel engineering place with a bracket to fit the lid and lock through, and a shroud to cover the padlock, that way boltcutters cant be used. This way when bollard is removed the lid is shut and looks neater, and no dynabolt nuts sticking out the top (unless recessed in) We have installed these in parks before, they were timber but same principle with steel and they worked well and less vanadlism |
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