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Old 09-05-2007, 12:12 PM   #1
cdsonic
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Unhappy Front end noise

Hi all

Just a question I have a 1999 au
I replaced the struts then I got a knocking noise over bumps.
So I got a pedders saftey check and they said it was the bottom ball joints.
So I replaced all the ball joints top and bottom. I also did swaybar rubbers and link rubbers as well.
And you guess it the knock is back again after a few days.

Has Any on else had this problem before or got any ideas :

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Old 09-05-2007, 12:59 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdsonic
Hi all

Just a question I have a 1999 au
I replaced the struts then I got a knocking noise over bumps.
So I got a pedders saftey check and they said it was the bottom ball joints.
So I replaced all the ball joints top and bottom. I also did swaybar rubbers and link rubbers as well.
And you guess it the knock is back again after a few days.

Has Any on else had this problem before or got any ideas :
Yep, it could be the brakes. Try throwing a calliper kit (around $40 for both sides) through the callipers. It may not get rid of the knock, but it's good to service the callipers, and it may just eliminate your knocking noise.
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Old 09-05-2007, 01:13 PM   #3
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may also be stabiliser rubbers but i would have thought thay would have found that in the check
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Old 09-05-2007, 04:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by au3xr6
may also be stabiliser rubbers but i would have thought thay would have found that in the check
He mentioned he'd done the swaybar, so I assumed that was the same as a stabiliser bar???
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Old 09-05-2007, 05:14 PM   #5
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: sorry JC missed that bit
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Old 09-05-2007, 05:41 PM   #6
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I put new pads on it at the same time as I did the ball joints. I only get the knock over rough roads and bumps, Its not there under braking so I thought the brakes where fine. :
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Old 09-05-2007, 05:53 PM   #7
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definitely soounds like calipers rattling problem was real bad in ba series factory repair was larger anti rattle springs and use adhesive on brake pads the fact noise goes with brakes applied nearly makes this definite

Last edited by brad graham; 09-05-2007 at 05:54 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:04 PM   #8
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sorry I wrote that wrong I ment I get no noise fromt the brakes at all.
The only time I get noise when driving over bumps in the road.
Could it be tie rod ends or the powersteering rack? :
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:12 PM   #9
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check your top control arm bushes
i just replaced mine this week, had exact same thing happening to my car

when you hit a bump etc it will clunk, it will get worse if you leave it, mine got to the point where it would clunk when applying brakes and also when letting the brakes off
Only took 2 weeks for it to get like that

Jack car up and take off front wheel, grab hold of top control arm and try and move it from side to side, there should be no movement whatsoever

If there's movement then bushes are gone
I paid 60 or 70 dollars (can't remember exactly) for nolathane bush kit to do both sides
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:27 PM   #10
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Thanks
I will have a look.
I throught pedders would have looked at this as I told them it had a clunk in the front thats why they had it.
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:33 PM   #11
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they could of overlooked it you never know

check that your top shock mount bolt is tight also and that rubber and plates are in good nick
you know, the bolt that comes up through into the engine bay on top of shock tower (you probably knew that though) ;)
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:38 PM   #12
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Question

the shock mount rubbers are old and have small cracks in them but they said they were alright.
They talked about a leak in the inside of the steering rack.
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Old 09-05-2007, 07:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cdsonic
sorry I wrote that wrong I ment I get no noise fromt the brakes at all.
The only time I get noise when driving over bumps in the road.
Could it be tie rod ends or the powersteering rack? :
If your callipers are sticking, the brakes may work fine, but when not in use, they will clunk. I know it sounds strange, but that's what happens. Try undoing the callipers and see if you can push the piston back in easily - if you can, then there's no problem. If you can't then the sticking calliper will be what's causing the clunk.
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

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Old 09-05-2007, 08:07 PM   #14
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What bits come in the caliper kit JC?

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Old 09-05-2007, 10:17 PM   #15
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What bits come in the caliper kit JC?

GK
You get a new piston seal, a new piston dust cover, and the rubbers for the calliper slides, and a new rubber cap for the bleed nipple (can I write that on a forum??). I got 2 sets for the EL (you need one for each side), and they were $44 the pair. EL front callipers are the same as AU1 fronts, s the AU kit should be the same kit as the EL. I didn't bother with the rears, as the callipers just about slide in with hand pressure only.

I got mine from a specialist brake supplier, but all good auto stores should have them (so probably not SuperCheap).
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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Old 09-05-2007, 11:18 PM   #16
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I will give it a go
Just a quick question how much force is a acceptable amount.
Thankyou for your help

P.S I went for a drive to night and when I saw a rough bit of road I lightly applyed the brakes, and the clunk was still there.
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdsonic
I will give it a go
Just a quick question how much force is a acceptable amount.
Thankyou for your help

P.S I went for a drive to night and when I saw a rough bit of road I lightly applyed the brakes, and the clunk was still there.
May not be the brakes then, but given everything you've done, if it's not the brakes, then it's got me buggered.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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Old 09-05-2007, 11:23 PM   #18
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Lightbulb

what about rack ends can they clunk ?
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
You get a new piston seal, a new piston dust cover, and the rubbers for the calliper slides, and a new rubber cap for the bleed nipple (can I write that on a forum??). I got 2 sets for the EL (you need one for each side), and they were $44 the pair. EL front callipers are the same as AU1 fronts, s the AU kit should be the same kit as the EL. I didn't bother with the rears, as the callipers just about slide in with hand pressure only.

I got mine from a specialist brake supplier, but all good auto stores should have them (so probably not SuperCheap).
Cheers JC,

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Old 09-05-2007, 11:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdsonic
what about rack ends can they clunk ?
Only if they're loose, but there's no real way for them to come loose. Worth checking though, I guess.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:42 PM   #21
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Thanks I will give the brakes a go just in case.
I will also try to tighten up the top control arm bolts a bit more to see if it makes any difference to the noise.
Because it is driving me insane.
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:46 PM   #22
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hey guys i get a knocking noise similar but when turning ect also??? any ideas?
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:53 PM   #23
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Red face

The top control arm bolts are as tight as I can get them.

I will do the brakes soon within the week and let you know.

Big possibility it is the brakes as I thought Pedders would have said something about the top control arm bushes.
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Old 10-05-2007, 07:13 PM   #24
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Exactly when do you get the noise? Whilst in dealerships I had to fix alsorts of problems like this.
Is it a loud clunk or a softer knock?
Can you get it going slow or do you have to be travelling at speed?
If you "bounce" the front end can you replicate it?

Some issues I have encountered are:
Dry upper ball joints (you said these have been replaced)

Inner tie rod ends notchy. They make an annoying knock over uneven roads and under light braking at low speeds.

Worn upper inner bushes. More of a clunk.

Loose steering rack. Mainly when turning but can be there over rough roads.

Loose bolts in steering column. Steering appears loose and clunks.

Worn shocks.

Worn inner lower bushes.

Loose K frame.

Start with those and let us know how you go.
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:09 PM   #25
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Tech Trainer

Its more of a loose rattle knock.
I know that sounds weird.
It mainly more noticeable at speeds of above 40kmph
It sounds like something is loose.
Like maybe the bolt is tight but the object can still move.
It seems to be only affected by sharp bumps, potholes or rough roads.
Its there under light braking.
I have replaced ball joints due to pedders telling me it was the bottom ones. I thought while doing two I might as well do all four.
Struts have been done.
New Sway bar bushes .
New Brake pads.
I have all so tightened each bolt twice and check each one I can find in the front over and over again.
Bouncing the front end does not replicate any of the noise.
One thing I did notice was that the noise use to happen at slow speeds etc. But since doing ball joints it has improved slightly.

Thank you for any help.
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:50 PM   #26
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I had the same sort of noise, it turned out to be the steering rack plus it had a leak replaced rack all ok.
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Old 12-05-2007, 09:37 AM   #27
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my rack does have a slight leak.
I think I might just have to get this all done at once or I will be able to buy a wheel alighment shop.
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Old 13-05-2007, 06:08 PM   #28
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Ok is it a hollow type noise or a more solid type noise?

Is it coming from the left or right hand side of your car?

Have you checked your castor rod bushes?

What is your brake pedal like? Do you have to pump it up?

Sorry for all the questions but it will help me and hopefully others diagnose your concern.
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Old 13-05-2007, 06:37 PM   #29
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In between hollow and solid
I have noise on both sides
My brake pedal is fine
Sorry if this a stupid question has a AU got caster rod bushes.
I found that the bolts that go into the plate where the steering column go through the firewall where loose. When I tightened the nuts the noise improved it a fair bit, but it is still there.
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Old 15-05-2007, 12:13 PM   #30
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Could it be something like a broken engine mount??
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