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Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Club and Speciality Forums > Forum Community Car Clubs > OzECruisers (E/N/D Series) > OzECruisers General Discussions

OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 02-03-2005, 02:29 PM   #1
MustangNicko
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Default More Problems (EL XR6)

Ok guys, here it is...

The car starts....

Drive it around....

It gets warm (normal operating temperature)...

Its fine for a few minutes...

Then all of a sudden it just stalls (drops dead)...

I try to start it then it doesnt start (its not a battery problem) It feels like the starter motor struggles to engage the flywheel...

Then, i leave it for an hour or so and it starts up fine and does it all over again...

Anyone have any suffestions, it has me stumped to why it will just "stall" then not start.

Thanks
Nick

PS. I just joined the E-series club you blokes have to help hehe ;)
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:39 PM   #2
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ignition coil !
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:41 PM   #3
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Fuel pump! Like I said in your other thread :P But Dellboy's probably more on the money
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:49 PM   #4
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mmm fuel pump and ignition coil... ill give them a go... by why does it only do it when the car is warmed up??? When it doesnt start, i switch to ignition and i can hear the fuel pump goin, so i dunno ????
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:02 PM   #5
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Ignition coils usually just go bunk and don't work at all.

I'd be more inclined to look at the TFI module, it's the gadget which is screwed to the side of the distributor.
They quite often go intermittent.

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Old 02-03-2005, 03:20 PM   #6
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Thats what i was thinkin of Soxx. Apparently if moisture gets in there its "ta ta mate". But why does the car only f*** up when its at operating temperature?
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:23 PM   #7
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Ive had a diagnostics test and its come up twice with ECU faults. Ive replaced the ECU (bloody manual XR6 ECU impossible to find) and it still plays up :/
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:25 PM   #8
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Heat causes things to expand, so when it gets hot cracks open up, and cause failure, when it cools all is good again
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:29 PM   #9
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The thing is... i dont trust diagnostic checks... nothing ever comes up and the car never plays up :(
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:45 PM   #10
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I've seen the same thing happen a long time ago on a Morris 1100. I put a brand new coil in and it started doing this after a month or so. I'd get in it, drive it up my street and it'd stop dead. Checked everything and in the end chucked in a S/H coil from the shed and it never missed a beat again.

I pulled it apart to find out what was wrong and the H/T lead wasn't attached inside.
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:48 PM   #11
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Ill go to the garage now and pull shit apart. Is there a way i can test the TFI module or the Ignition coil out of the car??
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:32 PM   #12
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Took the TFI module off and it looks really ratty!!! Any way i can test it?
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:37 PM   #13
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I think you would need a test rig to do this and you would also need to simulate the temperature rise so it might be a bit difficult. Do you have a spare coil you can throw in to test?

Hang on a minute, did you say the starter motor isn't working properly when it happens? What else do you see when you try to start it while it's hot - like the dash lights, etc? Just wondering if it might be an electrical fault, say in a battery connection or something like that.
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:53 PM   #14
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It's near impossible to test that sort of stuff, because it's intermittent.

Only easy way is to replace it with known good stuff.

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Old 02-03-2005, 08:08 PM   #15
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try temporarily disconnectting the o2 sensor so it doesnt go into closed loop mode(?)

it could possibly be warming up, going into closed loop mode and the o2 sensor/wiring is faulty so it dies? or would it just go into limp home mode if that was the case??...

my other thoughts are coil (common), dizzy (common), ECT, HT leads??
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:28 PM   #16
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my eb actually did this when i re built the motor, what it was in my case was a small split in the map sensor vac hose. this was causing it to run rich at warm up like it should but when it was warm it flooded its self and died. i talked to the mechanics at work and they said the extra petrol in the combustion chambers caused it to have higher compression making it crank slower and cos it was flooded not start that also caused the stall. once i left it for a bit and the petrol exaporated it started fine and did it all again. all that cos of a split in 1 vac hose.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:48 AM   #17
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Hmm but theres so many fricken vac hoses... Ill give it go today sometime, check all the hoses for splits or leaks, thanks mate
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Old 07-03-2005, 10:54 AM   #18
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update...

Theres no spark at all coming from the plugs/leads...

I dont know if this is normal or not but the rotor arm on the dizzy is facing 9 o'clock when looking at it from the front... Isnt it supposed to face the finish mark at all times?
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Old 07-03-2005, 11:04 AM   #19
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if you have no spark, means Ignition coil is cooked most likely

With it being at 9oclock, have you moved the dizzy or taken it out at all??
The only way to find out if the dizzy is at the "roughly" correct spot is to turn the crank to TDC then check to see if the rotor button is sitting at the first sparkplug lead spot.

I had a simular problem with my old ZK but i changed Coil, leads, fuel pump, and AFM and the car still did it even when i got rid of it
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:17 PM   #20
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Ill try and get my hands on a test coil to see if thats the problem...

I only move the dizzy slightly to advance/retard ignition timing. Ive never taken it out. It just took me by suprise when i saw the rotor arm facing directly at cylinder1. Usually its facing "Finish"
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Old 20-03-2005, 02:10 PM   #21
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ok guys...

The hall effect sensor in the dizzy was KO'd!! Got a new dizzy, ignition coil and TFI module and she runs like a fkn champ! Also got the ignition timing done properly through the ECU and its never ran so well/quick thanks for your input fellas

Nick
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Old 20-03-2005, 02:12 PM   #22
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is this the first time ur cars run well?
congrats on fixin it :P
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Old 20-03-2005, 02:21 PM   #23
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lol nah when i first bought her she ran sweet, then i started getting problems :( Now shes all good and im back on the street whoopin *** ;) Might take her to calder friday night to see how shes goes, try and beat that shithouse time from a while ago

Thanks dude
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Old 20-03-2005, 02:46 PM   #24
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what was ur last time?
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Old 20-03-2005, 07:18 PM   #25
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15.6 :(

It was dead stock at the time and i had rear supsension problems at the time which would make it bog through 1st and 2nd
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Old 21-03-2005, 12:31 AM   #26
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And Tramp....

Mine used to maul yours cuz you couldnt get traction..
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Old 21-03-2005, 08:53 AM   #27
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15.6 aint bad for a sick car...
be interesting to see what it gets now!
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Old 21-03-2005, 11:13 AM   #28
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Good luck with it nick, glad to hear it's all sorted..
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Old 22-03-2005, 10:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny
And Tramp....

Mine used to maul yours cuz you couldnt get traction..
Yeah only off the mark :P ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yagz
Good luck with it nick, glad to hear it's all sorted..
Thanks big fella

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFFalcon
15.6 aint bad for a sick car...be interesting to see what it gets now!
Yeah i thought it wasnt bad... just not what i expected. I was thinkin of hitting Calder pretty soon before i sell it, just to see what she can pull. Its drives so different to when i first got it

Last edited by MustangNicko; 22-03-2005 at 10:59 PM.
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