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12-03-2007, 05:31 PM | #1 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
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Just thought I'd share my little project of mounting my lights on the wagon with everyone. The lights are Lightforce 240 Blitzs' and I wanted to be able to take them on and off the car quickly and easily on the run if necessary and mount them onto a Smartbar. This presented a couple of problems, not the least of which was there really isn't anywhere on a poly Smartbar to actually mount spotlights. "Just go and get one of those Unibar mounting brackets that fix on behind the number plate", I hear you say; well I looked at them and they have 3 major drawbacks for my liking. Firstly, mounting the 240s' on one of these bars would have the lights close together and basically blocking the grill intake, secondly they'd sit too high for my liking and be out in the breeze too much as well as causing the lights to be in the line of sight where the covers would reflect back at me when the lights are on, and thirdly, and most importantly, when in place they only protrude 50mm from the front of the bar which isn't enough to get the Blitzs' to sit properly without major surgery to the bar, the light mount base or both. So what to do, hmmmmmmm.......... well, after a bit of research and a bit of a think I came up with a custom mount that I had fabricated at the local Metaland outlet out of 5mm aluminium for under $75 which is a very competitive price compared to the Unibars out there where I saw prices ranging from $65 at Kmart to $99 at Repco with the other auto supply places around here somewhere in between. Not only that but it's a damn site stronger than any Unibar I've seen and allows the lights to be mounted lower and wider so as to cause minimal interference to airflow and the headlights plus they're able to be put on and taken off in under a minute with a battery drill or power screwdriver and a spanner with the power leads tucked neatly away in the lower air intake when not in use.
It needs a coat of paint to match the bar I recon but otherwise I'm very happy with it The number plate is more to cover the gusset and help redirect airflow back into the grill than to be seen as I'll have a sticker made this week that'll locate on the top crossbar so it's easily visible. The whole thing not including the Blitzs' came to just over $500 bucks so I'm stoked. Smartbar - $50 (ebay) freight - $72.50 new mounting kit - $75.00 (old one lost in transit by Star Track: ) replacement 70mm fogs - $125.00 (Old ones broken) Amber dye for bar lights -$10.00 dash switches -$8.00 auto electrician -$100 assorted bits& pieces - $40 Custom light bracket - $75 --------------------------------- Total $555.50 I do like it when things go right, I'm : : : Cheers all Bushbasher
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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12-03-2007, 06:45 PM | #2 | ||
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I'm pretty sure that you will find your light mounts deemed an "illegal foward protruding extension" that doesn't meet "adr airbag requirements"
But other then that well done on the budget front and as long as it does the job you want it too all good.
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12-03-2007, 07:36 PM | #3 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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12-03-2007, 07:52 PM | #4 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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I also agree guys that it's probably not to ADR requirements that's why I needed it to be able to go on and off quickly and easily. The idea is to leave the lights on it permenently, and hopefully correctly adjusted for the most part, so I can just pull over at dusk, whip it out and put it on then at sun up or there abouts pull it back off again. It was never intended to be on while in built up areas just for open road night driving. I don't think there's ever a need for driving lights in populated areas so having big lights on in town is overkill for the most part and just something else to get damaged in a busy car park. Having said that, if I get harrassed about them it won't take much to add a nudge bar on that protrudes out past the front of the lights. I considered that but didn't want to add the extra weight unnecessarily considering its intended use.
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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12-03-2007, 08:02 PM | #5 | ||
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Nice install ... the Unibars that you can buy are absolutely crap ... I tried one ages ago ... and it was weak as anything.
So I bought a nudge bar. I see you have a Combo Filter and a clear cover ... I have found the Combos on both lights will be fine ... as you can still get a decent spot from the light (as the actual spot beam comes from outside the diffuser and concentrates in the centre (about 750m down the road). I still need to upgrade my globes to the GL06 ones though ... I have been meaning to get around to it Orbit ... trust me :hihi:
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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12-03-2007, 08:52 PM | #6 | |||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
Also , I like my clear covers and one combo is enough for me as I think the +50 globes in the headlights throw enough lateral light for me to see anything I need to worry about, especially as I tend to straddle the centre line unless there is other traffic coming at me, so I've got maximum time and space to react if something jumps out at me.
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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12-03-2007, 08:58 PM | #7 | ||
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I have been using the GL01's for about ... ummm ... nearly 2 years ... still going strong ... and they get a lot of use out on the highways at night ... and out near home in the evening.
I might try a GL06 and a GL01 side-by-side and see what the difference is going to be. I find the peripheral light beam from the Combos to be bloody awesome ... there is a massive difference compared to using the factory headlights with +50s (as I am using projectors with +50s on my AU ... and I find the peripheral beam on mine fantastic .... I just find my 240 Blitz with the combos great indeed.
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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12-03-2007, 09:44 PM | #8 | ||
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The GL01's will last longer and are therefore better if you travel dirt alot.
The GL06 are a highperformance globe with about half the life of the GL01's Remember you have the option of both vertical and horizontal filaments, if you need to see far you need the vertical if you want spread you want the horizontal. Also you the best upgrade you can do is to blue combo filters. The survival test of the GLO6 on your truck during day will amount to a pooftienth of SFA... The only significant damage that occurs to a filament (in general use) is while it is hot, a filament is ALOT stronger when it is cold... especially with the GL06 as it is thinner and "burns" hotter is more prone to thermal (on and off alot) and physical shok while in use. But even so you will get atleast 50hours out of the Gl06 on very corrugated roads, before the vibration fatigue stresses become too much. The GL06 is a significantly better globe to the GL01 in terms of output and as such more then justifies it's added expense of more regular replacement. ORB>
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12-03-2007, 09:58 PM | #9 | ||
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BTW the nudge bar weight is not heavy enough to even be a consideration in economey etc.
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12-03-2007, 10:32 PM | #10 | ||
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I find my Bpcar nudge bar was lighter than I expected ... and the ECb Nudge Bar on the Territory (larger nudge bar) ... was bloody light as well.
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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12-03-2007, 11:14 PM | #11 | ||
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Location: Sunny Downtown Wagga Wagga. NSW.
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I would have gone for Cibie, you could have solved a few problems, they're smaller than the Lightforce (albiet twice the price) therefore they would'nt block airflow or the numberplate (dont try driving in NSW like that ) The bracket may not block the grille airflow but how much air is it blocking from the front bar?
Dont forget the lower the lights the less effective they are.
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13-03-2007, 04:25 AM | #12 | ||||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
Quote:
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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13-03-2007, 07:28 AM | #13 | ||
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I really wouldn't be concerned about the extra weight foward of the front suspension ect. i've not ever seen anyone with any problems like you describe might happen.
And gasolane....cibies...the list of cons well out weighs the pros. 1. they are heavy..leading to morE vibration and bulb failure. 2. they use (last i checked) vapour deposited instead of electro deposited reflectors, also the alloy LF use for their reflector is much much better. 3. cibie are harder to mod to HID thats just to start. which cibie model were you talking about being twice the price?
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13-03-2007, 11:08 AM | #14 | ||||
Former BTIKD
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Quote:
RE: Airflow, I meant the Oscar's are a smaller diameter light and could be mounted higher giving a better spread down the road. There's two mounted behind the grille on my old Sportsman below. Yeah I know, the grille would affect the output, but I was prepared to lose some light for the benefit of not having a nudge bar and the fact no one could steal them. Plus the added benefit of scaring the crap out of people that drive in the daytime with their lights (unknowingly) on high beam Quote:
1# Heavier maybe, but much better built than most Aux lights around. 2# ? Dont know. 3# Couldn't you just buy HID lights instead of modifying. Cibie Oscar. I paid around $200 each 5yrs ago. Maybe I'm just getting old and loosing track with current trends but we used to use Cibie's for rallying. the lead crystal glass lens allowed maximum light to the road and the standard 55w globe didn't drain the engine of power. This was very important as we had 100w headlights and four 55w Oscars. Total light output was then 300w, had we used 100w spotlight globes it would have been 600w and drained far too much power from the motor. But like I said earlier to Bushbasher, had I allready owned a pair of lights that I liked I would'nt throw them in the bin then run out and Buy Oscars.
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13-03-2007, 02:32 PM | #15 | ||
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No worries gasolane!!
not bagging just pointing out a few things. The weight issue is a big thing, the strenght of the lightforce GRP housing and lexan lense is an insurmountable combination that can't be approached by a regular glass steel/alloy body and lense combination. The LF are much much stronger and more durable(no metal fatigue) they also wear very very well. As for the size i he could have gone the 140 or 170 BUt the air flow isn't really that restricted. Premium xenon filled quartz envolope bulbs 10w to 100w are availalbe. The cost of modifing the LF blitz to HID is about 1/3rd of buying OEM HID and only takes up 2hours of the most clumsy persons time. The other problem with Cibie are that modding them to HID will drastically shorter the reflector life as there is no UV sheilding or sacrifical coating on the cibie lense as there is on the 240. Not wanting to flame anyone, just point out that technology has moved on ALONG way since metal cases that crak or are heavy and glass that is the same. ORB> Yes LF are more expensive but they are just such a better light...better built, better output, longer life if well maintained and customer service is second to none.
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13-03-2007, 07:23 PM | #16 | ||
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One of the guys at work has Cibies ... and I do admit they are a good light indeed.
He is kinda jeaous that I have the LFs though ... he was surprised how light the LFs are and how strong as well. After seeing a 4" chunk of coal come off the back of a truck ... bounce on the road in front of me and smacked my driver's side driving light (then flew over the roof missing the rest of the ute) .... I literally had to change my pants ... as I thought the coal was going to come through the windscreen and hit me. I checked the light afterwards and there was not a mark on it ... I was in disbelief .... I was doing around 100-110km/h at the time following a truck and hand no time to avoid it. This was when I had the clear covers over them (before i bought the combo covers). I thought at the time I'd spend a little more for the lights (after reading many reviews in the 4WD magazine) ... but I didn't have the cash at the time to fork out for the HID version .... I also opted for the lower model Blitz as they had adjustable beam as well (as the XGTs were fixed beam along with the HID versions). I have my left LF driving light wound out a bit ... and the right one not quite on pencil/spot ... and I have lined them up that the right one is dead centre inside the left beam (kinda like a bullseye) .. and then the combo filter over it to give the flat beam of light across the road. I think the only lights at the moment that will give the LFs are a run for their money though are the newer Hellas (they are getting close in size now and they have HID OEM version as well) ... will be interesting to see how it all goes. And the Good thing about LF ... they are Australian Designed/Built/Owned.
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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13-03-2007, 07:26 PM | #17 | |||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
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. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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13-03-2007, 07:53 PM | #18 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Location: Moree, NSW
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A few of the guys at work use LF on there line trucks, while other use IPF and the LF out preform the IPF's no end. The only thing with the LF's is they don't like hitting 'roos at 110km/h but then i don't think any light would.
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13-03-2007, 08:53 PM | #19 | ||
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no worries bushbasher... i thought you were talking about using a nudgebar like on mine...which mounts to the metal framing behind the bar.
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