The Kokoda Track Experience

[Dark Horse]

Well, for those of you who saw my previous thread regarding this trip, I'm sure there were a few that were awaiting this. Before I commence, I would like to thank wulos for his time in editing a large number of images that are included in this write up. Rather than provide the whole story in block, this journal is posted in day by day segments of the actual trek itself, hopefully this will allow for some discussion along the way and a somewhat easier read for all.

Apologies for the delay (it's been 2 months since) in getting this to the forums for those interested to read!

Also here is a map:

Friday 15th April, 2005 - Fly Up

Everyone arrives at the airport at the crack of dawn. No one sleeps well with the excitement and anticipation of the trip. Bravo Company (Trek 51-B is our group) falls in.

Check in goes fairly smoothly with only a few hiccups - one of the ladies tries the security guards out with pen knife, scissors and tweezers. Most of the Kokoda crew take the no frills Virgin 737 flight to Brisbane. I go my own way - chasing the crew down from a Business Class seat on the competing Qantas 767 flight. No stooged luxuries for me.

Once in Brisbane the Virgin trekkers book two maxi taxi’s to get to the International Terminal. I meet up afterwards catching the train. No complaints about the delay - it was free if you kept your boarding pass!

Our group is in trouble with security again - no you cannot take your concealed weapon (ala walking stick) in cabin. How many times some of our belongings are demoted to the cargo holds who knows! The connecting three hour Air Niugini flight in the 767 passes uneventfully, coral reefs and clear skies make for a pretty backdrop along the way.



The descent into Jackson’s International Airport, Port Moresby gets interesting - an instrument approach is in order says the First Officer. If it’s no good, we divert to Cairns. It’s pretty bad, cloud cover all the way down to 2,400 feet altitude, strong turbulence, heavy rain and whitecaps on the surface of the water below. Everyone agrees this isn’t great trekking weather, and the slide felt during the heavy landing reflects this.



Accommodation is at the Gateway Hotel for the first evening - it’s about 2 minutes from the airport. A briefing session with Gail, the trekking agent, highlights the concern of a delay in getting to the starting point, Owen’s Corner, because of the heavy rains. A few intrepid drinkers visit the bar, I get savage with weight of my pack. I repack four times.


A health message on behalf of the Australian Government. It's the first thing you see as you step outside the International Terminal building at Jacksons Intl.

[Dark Horse]

Saturday 16th April, 2005 - Day One

It rains all night. The 0600 start for the trek is delayed until 1000. Most of the crew have a delicious buffet breakfast at the hotel before preparing to board the troop carriers. It takes 1.5 hours to reach the start of the trek, which is now relocated to Sogeri because of the road conditions. Lots of switchbacks and twisties with few crash barriers.


The hilly roads to Sogeri are a real test of nerves for many.

The drop off at Sogeri means a 17 kilometre trek just to get to Owen’s Corner. The crew are all surprised at the reception from the locals as the convoy of troop carriers make their way past the villages, cheering and waving at the trekkers.


The Crew.

Many find it pretty difficult and exhausting on this section of trekking, a couple of our gang wisely order a porter each to begin the official trek tomorrow. I stick with carrying my own pack. It only weighs 16kg.



Along the way the crew are again overwhelmed by the reception from the locals. The kids here are big Rugby League fans, if there’s a footy it is passed to and fro as we trek by the villages, if there‘s not, Bravo company talk footy anyway. We can’t help but stop and hand out the biscuits and chocolates from their ration packs. It’s truly a heart felt experience to put a big smile to these kids’ faces, who literally have none of the luxuries taken for granted back home.


Yeap, those rains are clearing.

Owen’s Corner is reached late in the afternoon. Camp is set up, the porters and guides assist - it’s really amazing to see a tent go up in seconds when there’s a half dozen porters on hand. Food is eaten, and into the songs, the ukuleles are played.


The official starting line of the Kokoda Track at Owen's Corner. For those that don't know, I'm the stooge on the right.


The Owen's Corner campsite.


The guns of Owen's Corner. It took the Aussies two months to manhandle these from Port Moresby.


A little bit of info on these guns.

To be continued...

[Shonky]

Awesome read Dark Horse!

Kokoda is on my to-do list of treks, along with Federation peak.

Really interesting. I await the next instalment with bated breath!

The pictures of the Guns didn't work though. Is this just me or is everyone else just seeing a little red cross where the pic should be?

[Shonky]

Gun pictures working now...

Whoa! That would suck!

Incredible.

[Mondie]

Great post mate :Reverend:

l've been to PNG several times with work and it really is one of the last frontiers, back during WW2 it must have been like going back in time centuries. Its hard to believe a county like this is so close to home.

Would love to hear more about the trek if you have time. How hard was it, did you feel a connection with the soldiers from the war?

Cheers

[LuvinmyEB]

I'd nearly given up on hearing about your trek, sounds very interesting so far. I'll be waiting for more instalments.

Excellent pictures by the way.

[rodderz]

Good writeup so far mate, it's a good read

My brother's fiancee's father is over there at the moment writing a book on the kokoda and changi parts of WWII gathering info, should be out next year

[Casper]

Darky you tease...give them at least a few more days worth.

[Donut Queen]

Really well done Dark Horse. I have much admiration for anybody who attempts the Kokoda Trail.

[Yummy Mummy]

My grandfather was a sniper for the 39th battalion, the first to venture down the kokoda track in the war. His stories of his experience are something that will stay with me for the rest of my life. I would love to retrace his footsteps one day.

Photos look amazing, tell us more about it....how exhausting was it?

[Keepleft]

I recommend Kokoda too. It will one day come to be as a recognisable 'must do', as Gallipoli.

When you folk visit PNG, take time out to pay respect to the thousands of Australian and allied war dead at Lae and Port Moresby's (Bomana) war cemetries, maintained by the Australian War Graves Commission.

PNG has been, and remains, a close friend and neighbour in need of the tourist dollar.

[XA-Coupe]

There's a good book on Kokoda.. called... Kokoda. Funny that.
It's a hell of an eye opener. What was expected of only partially trained militia by commanders that could only be called buffoons ( and that's being charitable ) was unbelievable. They eventually pulled through until reinforcements arrived .. although some of the stories about the quality of experienced and trained reinforcements makes you wonder.
It also has a small portion with a view from the Japanese side.

I would love to to the Kokoda track but I don't think I would live through it being the fat bastard I am

[blue fairy]

I can't wait to hear and see the pictures of the rest of the trip!
So far, it sounds awesome!

[Psycho Chicken]

Hope there wasn't any muggings, apparently it's common now days.

[Dark Horse]

Did I feel a connection with the troops during the PNG campaign? Even having trekked halfway to Owen's Corner (remembering that the troops had to physically manhandle the guns and that Sogeri is pretty much halfway between the two) my jaw drops to the deck. I did do a bit of reading about the history of the whole campaign in awe, but to actually experience the sights, sounds and smells, takes that to another dimension entirely.

At this stage of the trek, I'm thinking, it will be hard, no doubt about that, but keen to do it again if the time comes.

Anyhow now for the next instalment...

[Dark Horse]

Sunday 17th April, 2005 - Day Two

Today begins at 0500, packing away gear and eating first breakfasts from the ration packs. Finally underway at 0630, Bravo Company begins the steep descent from Owen’s Corner. It’s demanding - one of our guys snaps his walking stick not long into the trek. I'm constantly slipping over on my ****. Forget traction control, there isn’t any in this muddy quagmire.

The Goldie River awaits the crew at the bottom of the descent - it’s about 25m wide, quite deep, sharp at the bottom and packing a mighty fast moving current that can be heard a good half hour before getting to the river bank. White water rafters this place is for you! The porters rig a raft which gets all the packs across. One by one the trekkers get into the water and pulls themselves across with a rope that’s rigged from one end to the other. It's a two hour long exercise to get Alpha, Bravo and Charlie companies (in all sixty trekkers across.)


How we get across.


How our packs get across.

Imita Ridge forms the next warm up challenge. It’s a 400m steep climb using some 3200 steps to get to the top running along The Golden Stairs. Eric, Bravo Company’s guide informs the crew of a guest house we will be staying at for the evening at Ua-ale Creek. This creek is crossed some eight times before arriving at the guest house. Wet boots and socks for all.


The descent from Imita Ridge. It’s just as steep climbing it.

Some have visions of the guest house as a cosy home with cooked meals, hot showers and beds with crisp clean sheets. Not so. The rustic bamboo huts are occupied by other trekkers. It becomes a case of set a tent up if there’s room. As a result, many share a tent this evening. Out with the soap and into the creek for a refreshing wash in the cool running water. It does wonders for morale, and after tea, ukuleles and singing, the sound of Ua-ale Creek lulls all to sleep.


Ua-ale Creek Guesthouses.

To be continued...

[blue fairy]

I can't wait for the next installment! It sounds amazing.

[BAUTE]

why o why eat ration packs? they are the work of the devil and aren't even particularly light or space efficient

[Dark Horse]

Originally Posted by BAUTE

why o why eat ration packs? they are the work of the devil and aren't even particularly light or space efficient

LOL. I dunno, but for a whole days rations weighed a kilo, which I certainly had no complaints with. It's basically what each trekker is issued with each day and is covered under the trekking costs. Definitely first class cuisine compared with tins of bully beef the malnutritioned troops had to stretch out.

And we continue...

[Dark Horse]

Monday 18th April, 2005 - Day Three

Another early start introduces a predominantly uphill struggle to Irobaiwa Ridge. Again it’s quite muddy and very slippery in places. A road block halts all trekkers until Eric arrives to negotiate with the locals to pass this section of land. Everyone has to pay an additional 20 kina (A$10), before the local tribe lets the trekkers through. Irobaiwa village has on display some war relics - unexploded grenades, old rifles and helmets. The locals wanted an extra 20 kina to take photos of this stuff. Bugger 'em, there's plenty other villages around with war relics too.


The roadblock.


View from Irobaiwa Village, this is as far as the Japs got.

After lunch by the Ofi Creek, where many go for a relaxing swim, a 750 metre climb follows for a grand total of 1,300 metres in climbing and eleven false peaks for the day. I'm not too happy with my climb performance either. This is Heartbreak Ridge. Many start cursing the Kokoda Track on a number of occasions. The porters do it easy, with packs, they sing, play ukulele and climb at a blistering pace. The murderous climb for most, however, is followed by an equally murderous steep descent into the village of Naoro. I discover my ability to rapidly descend such terrain (hence the nickname "Kamikaze" dive bomber), easily catching up to the leaders on arrival into the village.


That's Nauro off in the distance.

Vegetable gardens lead into the final descent to Naoro. It’s a pretty good view here, some of Bravo Company trade aches and pains temporarily for the serene views. The tail end of Bravo Company doesn’t arrive until after dark. Today is not easy on many.

[Dark Horse]

Tuesday 19th April, 2005 - Day Four


The descent from Nauro begins.

A steep descent beckons for the longest day of the trek. Something in the order of 12 hours walking today. Descending through the early morning mist from the high country and into the swampy lands below leads to another crossing at the Brown River. This one is 50m wide with the usual fast flowing current. It’s crossed in stages, the trekkers wade part of the way, and then test their balancing skills on a half submerged log. The porters build a bridge made of vines and logs to finish the crossing. A couple of us bum hop across this bridge and get soaked. Another begins crossing only find the log collapses underneath, sending with him two porters into the water. My bag goes for a dunk as well, as the porter does his best to get the packs across. It’s into the water holding onto the remaining vines to complete this river crossing!


This is the part where it gets interesting.

I discover that I have lost my camera along the way to the village of Menari. Stooged majorly some might say. The upside is that cupcakes, cucumbers, and even cans of e, not to mention mandarins are for sale here for the lunch stop. I savour a e. Heaven.


Menari Village.

It’s very hard to get moving again, but with a lot of effort Bravo Company begins the steep trek up Brigade Hill singing their hearts out working to the top. Everything from the Australian anthem to Tie the Kangaroo Down Sport. I choose to struggle on in silence. It’s hot and humid.


Test of fatigue - log crossing before the uphill climb.


Top of Brigade Hill looking back at Menari.

Tonight’s destination is the guest house at Efogi 1. To most of Bravo Company the steep descent from Brigade Hill is a hair raising experience. It is commenced in the dark. Some 400 metres altitude needs to be lost to get to Efogi. The track follows out to a ridge line with a mortally inviting switchback along one stage. One wrong footing is all that is needed to start a plummet to instant death. Eric tells of an Australian girl who lost her life trekking this section. Concentration levels are pushed hard beyond the effects of fatigue - it’s also muddy and very slippery here too.

Washed off by a cold shower in a water tank, Bravo Company finally settles for the evening at Efogi. Fresh vegies are on offer for tea. One of the guys gets sick, I'm offered a sleeping bag, and make do with soaked gear for the night.

To be continued...

[PULLY6]

Wow, an amazing story mate. I'm hanging out for more!

[Dark Horse]

Wednesday 20th April, 2005 - Day Five

Today begins with pancakes for breakfast, followed by a trek through the main part of Efogi 1, a river crossing and steep ascent to Efogi 2. The crew have a rest stop at Efogi 2 eating bananas and peanuts.


View from Efogi 2 looking back at Efogi 1. You can just make out where we made our steep descent in the top right and that fatally inviting ridgeline is there too.


The experts at work.

Another steep climb takes Bravo Company to the village of Kagi - home of the last remaining fuzzy wuzzy. It is here for lunch, followed by photos. A gradual descent follows through Myola and passes the wreckage of a Johnson bomber in a swamp.


Last accessible Fuzzy Wuzzy with the troops.

Bravo Company settle for the evening at ‘Camp 1900’ - a site by a creek some 1900 metres above sea level. It’s a pretty cold place to stay for the night, many - porters included, huddle by the fires. Tree felling goes on nearby. No one is comfortable in camping beneath the trees. It’s been a shorter walk today, only about nine hours.


No we didn't book the guesthouse at Camp 1900, so it's out with the tents in a minute.

To be continued...

[Dark Horse]

Thursday 21st April, 2005 - Day Six

An interesting log river crossing leads to a fairly uneventful climb to the Kokoda Gap, which is the highest point of the trek at Mt Bellamy. Putting things in perspective this peak is 20m taller than our own Mt Kosciusko. The views lead down the valley to Kokoda, which can just be seen off in the haze, now only some 21 km away.

A predominantly steep descent follows to Templeton’s Crossing. Again packs are taken across the river first, followed by the trekkers cautiously guided by the porters. These guys are always there to lend a hand, guaranteed never let anyone fall in when crossing.

Lunch stop is at Templeton’s Crossing 2. Bravo Company is swamped by all sorts of insects ranging from bees to bugs and flies. Not exactly a pleasant way to be spending the afternoon. After lunch and crossing the river, a steep descent leads to the Eora creek campsite - three to four hours of sheer hell on everyone’s knees. The old weapons pits hand dug by the Australian troops are evident along this section of the track too.

Camp is set up and the locals have their produce for sale. Some of the freshest of cakes, steamed sweet potato and rices are consumed. The troops share stories before settling in for the night.


That's Kokoda in the valley off into the distance.


Templeton's Crossing.


A weapons pit.

To be continued...

[Dark Horse]

Friday 22nd April, 2005 - Day Seven

We're rounded up at 0600 welcomed by early morning frosts and clear skies. Sunlight begins to fill the valley. After packing and breakfast, Bravo Company proceed on a steep descent to the river crossing at Eora.



From there, another steep ascent beckons. There are times where the trek becomes a rock climb. Some of the steepest sections are found on the three hour journey to Alola village. The struggle is rewarded with spectacular views across the valley to Abuari to the east and Kokoda to the north.



This place has a small collection of weapons and ammunition from the war. A few of us take turns in looking like the Terminator. I'm into my natural Kamikaze routine with the Jap helmet and mortar.



The local produce on offer here at Alola is some of the freshest sampled so far, which mandates a two hour afternoon siesta. Eric finally calls Bravo Company to order and proceed an hour or so to the village of Isurava - the final stop for the day. The troops applaud all arrivals, notably 81 year old Walter of Charlie Company, who also happened to serve in PNG in the war.

There is a memorial here, with commanding views to Kokoda. Four large granite pillars dominate - representing the attributes of our young soldiers; Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice. There is also a memorial dedicated to Private Bruce Kingsley VC, who courageously gave his life for the Australians to successfully undertake a fighting withdrawal.



Tonight, a large festive feast prepared on behalf of the locals is in order. Everyone in Bravo Company - guides and porters included digs in. The evening tapers off with singing and storytelling. After 12 years with the guitar, the porters show me some new chords, so I'm off strumming away on the ukelele with them singing along.

To be continued...

[Dark Horse]

Saturday 23rd April, 2005 - Day Eight

It’s a pretty significant day - the final run to Kokoda, also known as the “Kamikaze Run” for it being pretty much downhill from Isurava and a natural high speed section. The troops want to finish, today preferably.

Yet another cracker barrel early start, Bravo company gradually emerge from the guest house. An impromptu commemoration follows at the Isurava Memorial. Eric somehow gets all his porters in order and together they sing the national anthem of PNG. The trekkers follow suit with the Australian anthem.


PNG national flag is hoisted followed by the PNG Anthem.

A rapid downhill descent follows. I catch up to Alpha Company on my downhill bombing run. Some don't like the idea of a Bravo Company dude in their ranks. Oh well, these things happen! To be fair I'm not going all out anyway, nursing my left achille's tendon, which really makes itself apparent now.


Back on the track, Bravo Company heads for the village of Deniki for morning tea, which has a clear view to Kokoda Airstrip.

Lunch takes place at a village called Hoi, a nice flowing creek nearby is the scene for an afternoon dip and another siesta. Steve (roving wanderer for this trek) rounds the troops up and the final march to Kokoda begins. For many this stretch of track is quite unique - it’s entirely flat, weird!


Final march to Kokoda.

It’s a very moving experience for Bravo Company on arrival to Kokoda Village. The gratitude that the locals have for the Australians extends to this day - a feeling that is very touching and quite humbling. There is also a large reception awaiting all trekkers. We trek a total distance of 113.4 kilometres.


The welcoming committee.

The troop carriers are here, which take the exhausted trekkers to Russell’s block - the base of operations for Kokoda Trekking. Russell is Gail’s trekking coordinator. Tonight it’s a feast and for the ****heads time to hit the SP beers.

This pretty much wraps up the actual trek portion, but the Kokoda Track Experience doesn't quite end there.

To be continued...

[Dark Horse]

Sunday 24th April, 2005 - Recovery


Post trek Bravo Company.

After a big night, Bravo Company pack for the journey back to Kokoda Airstrip. Some pack, whilst others donate their tents, mattresses and sleeping bags to the porters. The flight back follows much of the Kokoda Track. It's surreal. It’s at this point onboard the Twin Otter that reality sets in that Bravo Company actually did complete the trek. Again quite a moving experience, overflying the Isurava Memorial, Alola, alongside Mt Bellamy, Efogi, Owen’s Corner and the track from Sogeri.


Awaiting the flight home.


Isurava.

Back at the Gateway Hotel, luxury awaits. Real showers, shampoo, deodorant, clean clothes and a shave! A relaxing swim at the pool. Partying until the wee hours of….

[Dark Horse]

Monday 25th April, 2005 - Anzac Day

The Dawn Service at Bomana War Cemetery begins promptly at 0530. The Catafalque party take their positions on the cenotaph. Hymns are sung, the officials make speeches. Laying of the wreaths follows. The Last Post is played, followed by the national anthems of Australia, PNG and New Zealand. The ceremony concludes with the Catafalque Party marching off the cenotaph. A browse through the cemetery follows. Another moving experience.


Bomana War Cemetery.

The adventures of Kokoda come to a close now. Whilst on the subject on PNG, I'll continue with the adventures of Port Moresby (yes it's a HOLE!)

Some head straight to the Royal Yacht Club for a look see and a feed. Myself and others head there later - the food here is ace, two up is in order and the drinks run cold and plenty. This place overlooks the harbour of Port Moresby, the marina leads out to the calm green waters. Rolling hills fill the backdrop underneath clear skies. Out on the balcony we're lapping it all up, it’s top place to be on a day like this.

This morning all attending are invited to the traditional “Gunfire” breakfast at the Australian High Commission. Basically a “Gunfire” breakfast consists of coffee laced with rum. In addition to that, eskies upon eskies of ice cold SP beer are on offer. For a feed there are bread rolls, sausages and onions. Tea and coffee are also provided. It’s all free of charge. It’s bloody unreal, I've found some fine china to drink out of, what a great country!


Sunset at the Yacht Club.

The courtesy bus returns the group back to the Hotel. Back in the pool for another swim, an afternoon siesta and then dinner. It’s farewell for of our gang as they fly out the next day, so back to The Royal Yacht Club it is for tea. My room mate and I decide to have a quiet reflection at the Hotel. In fact it is discovered that my camera has been found by another trekking group, and is returned this evening. Legends!

[Dark Horse]

Tuesday 26th April, 2005 - Reflections

A couple of our guys fly out today - time to go back to the wife and kids. My room mate and I head back to the Yacht Club for lunch. The adventure for the day is leaving the compound and walking ten minutes unescorted to the shopping centre and back. Port Moresby has a pretty fair reputation for crime, escort by a guard is recommended for tourists when travelling around the city. The others head off to do some shopping and sightseeing with Eric.


The markets

Wednesday 27th April, 2005 - The Fly Out

Everyone manages to get to the airport in time for check-in and pass through security fairly smoothly. Well, except one who has to take his shoes off, and another who sends the metal detector haywire passing through eating chips packed in foil.

The take-off in the Air Niugini Fokker 100 is to the south east, with views of Port Moresby, the Yacht Club and the harbour on the way up to cruising altitude. Flying over the familiar coral reefs, the descent and landing into Cairns is fairly routine.

Passing through the duty free stores, immigration and customs, it is here just outside the Cairns International Terminal that Bravo Company fall out. A few of us have connecting flights to Sydney, the rest elect to stay in Cairns. There is also a small welcoming party to greet the arrivals.

Whilst awaiting my connecting flight to Brisbane (avoiding the Scarebus A330 flight direct to Sydney) I grab a Double Whopper meal and instantly feel sick. After all the fresh produce I've consumed in PNG I can no longer handle fast food. My overall senses probably are now attuned to finer things, especially when it comes to this.

Back into the civility of Business Class Qantas and the two flights home on the Boeing 767's are uneventful. A serene sunset on approach to Sydney a fitting end to a momentous adventure.


Special thanks go to the following for their photography: A.Clarke, B. O'Donnell, C. Petrie, C.Thomas.