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Old 31-08-2005, 09:27 PM   #31
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I am carrying a problem figure like John Holmes but can do nothing about it.The cost of saving 15 kg will make my existence sad.
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Old 31-08-2005, 10:08 PM   #32
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I remove nothing. I even race with tools in the boot.
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Old 31-08-2005, 11:40 PM   #33
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I normally carry 150kgs of tools in the car.What effect would that have on the 1/4?
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Old 31-08-2005, 11:47 PM   #34
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If you run a 15.2 it could mean you'd run a 15.0 or just wheel spin
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Old 31-08-2005, 11:51 PM   #35
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Ta mate....
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Old 31-08-2005, 11:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
Ta mate....
your welcome.
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Old 01-09-2005, 12:21 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabba
You can lighten the car 80 kilo's by removing the driver
I wish !!!Lol...
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Old 01-09-2005, 02:10 AM   #38
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This thread makes me laugh. With the amount of time most of us spend making our cars go faster, why the hell wouldnt you spend 20 odd minutes removing all the crap from your car so it can run at its full potential? Its like going to a dyno comp with 60,000k old spark plugs, old oil, cracked leads, timing not set, etc, or turning up to a cruise with bird sh!t all over your car.

If you are taking the time to go to the track, make the most of it. Youll be ****ED if you take the cant be stuffed attitude then pull a 15.001@89.999mph on your last run of the night.
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:59 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockstandard
This thread makes me laugh. With the amount of time most of us spend making our cars go faster, why the hell wouldnt you spend 20 odd minutes removing all the crap from your car so it can run at its full potential? Its like going to a dyno comp with 60,000k old spark plugs, old oil, cracked leads, timing not set, etc, or turning up to a cruise with bird sh!t all over your car.

If you are taking the time to go to the track, make the most of it. Youll be ****ED if you take the cant be stuffed attitude then pull a 15.001@89.999mph on your last run of the night.
lol...my thoughts exactly
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Old 01-09-2005, 08:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockstandard
This thread makes me laugh. With the amount of time most of us spend making our cars go faster, why the hell wouldnt you spend 20 odd minutes removing all the crap from your car so it can run at its full potential? Its like going to a dyno comp with 60,000k old spark plugs, old oil, cracked leads, timing not set, etc, or turning up to a cruise with bird sh!t all over your car.

If you are taking the time to go to the track, make the most of it. Youll be ****ED if you take the cant be stuffed attitude then pull a 15.001@89.999mph on your last run of the night.
I absolutely agree.If I want the best I will hack away!!

However I think the best way to run this wagon is the same way it would have been tested from factory for the 400metres.The tyre jack stay.The cargo barrier goes and so does the junk in consoles and glove box .This is a fair way to say ..I have a 15 or second street car.If I get crazy I can leave the tyre and jack at home ,no air filter ,no mats,no tow bar and then what? If I get a great time it just doesnt seem right to me.Ill stick with the standard setup and keep the towbar on.If I get a 16,15 or 14 at least I will know what it really does as a daily driver.

If I wanted a full race car I would have gone a dev 6 + cam for around 200 rwkws .A full aftermarket ecu and a true 3200 stall converter with 4:11 diff ratio and ran no seats or interior trim.
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Last edited by Stav; 01-09-2005 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 01-09-2005, 08:29 AM   #41
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If you wanted a full race car, you wouldnt have a wagon

Stop the crap and get to the track and start posting times damm it!
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Old 01-09-2005, 08:33 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockstandard
Its like going to a dyno comp with 60,000k old spark plugs, old oil, cracked leads, timing not set, etc, or turning up to a cruise with bird sh!t all over your car.
I've done that and still made 285rwkw. Just didn't have cracked heads or the bird.

Tuning unset miles out etc etc.
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Old 01-09-2005, 12:48 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by useless
I absolutely agree.If I want the best I will hack away!!

However I think the best way to run this wagon is the same way it would have been tested from factory for the 400metres.The tyre jack stay.The cargo barrier goes and so does the junk in consoles and glove box .This is a fair way to say ..I have a 15 or second street car.If I get crazy I can leave the tyre and jack at home ,no air filter ,no mats,no tow bar and then what? If I get a great time it just doesnt seem right to me.Ill stick with the standard setup and keep the towbar on.If I get a 16,15 or 14 at least I will know what it really does as a daily driver.

If I wanted a full race car I would have gone a dev 6 + cam for around 200 rwkws .A full aftermarket ecu and a true 3200 stall converter with 4:11 diff ratio and ran no seats or interior trim.
But you dont need a full race car to race to its full potential. If you are going to the drags to get some info on your car as is vs stock, then your going about it the right way. If you going for the sport and trying to get the best out of your car, then use every dirty trick you can to get that car down the 1/4 as fast as possible.

Better yet, do a couple of runs in street trim, then pull all the crap out (im not talking about seats etc - just anything you can remove in a few minutes), drop the tyre pressure a bit and find out what you can do. If you drop a tenth or two without spending a $ then that is a good days work.
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Old 01-09-2005, 12:55 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
If I get a 16,15 or 14 at least I will know what it really does as a daily driver.
Better get them to scrape up all the rubber on the start line, throw some dust and crap around and drizzle some oil down the track too then.

You cant compare the track times to road times, the track itself mkes a huge difference. Just dump all the extra junk like towbar, spare and jack and have fun. Its no science, its fun.

Your overthinking the whole thing Stav. Turn up, take out what you can and go race.
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Old 01-09-2005, 01:56 PM   #45
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towbar and decklid always come off my car, had tailgate on ran 12.70, had it off 12.69, so go figure.
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:22 PM   #46
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Do what I did for the first time....secure all loose items and just run it. Don't worry about taking sh!t out. That way if you get dodgey slow times just blame it on the "extras" :
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:36 PM   #47
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Do what I did for the first time....secure all loose items and just run it. Don't worry about taking sh!t out. That way if you get dodgey slow times just blame it on the "extras" :
Hey, thats my excuse! Honestly it always has spare, full tank and heaps of crap in it (must be the block of cement in the boot) :

Lovin this thread!

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Old 07-09-2005, 11:56 PM   #48
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My first runs were with normal tyre pressure and a full tank of fuel with the spare etc and some other garbage in the car. Seeing as this would be representative of how I would have the car every other day I left it at that (although next time I'll prob drop the tyre pressure and fuel level a bit - it prob won't make that much a diff).
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Old 08-09-2005, 12:09 AM   #49
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Spare, jack etc.
And have about 1/8th of a tank of fuel
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Old 09-09-2005, 01:45 AM   #50
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Ran an 1/8 of a tank on my last run tonight and the car lost serious power off the line, no fuel at the pick up I suppose, 1/4 minimum for me.
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Old 09-09-2005, 02:12 AM   #51
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damn! if i had of removed my spare i woulda run 14's...
i only remove whats required by scrutineering.
spare etc all stays in, just loose stuff is taken out.

for some cars racing on a track is completely different to on road situations, but it depends on the car.
my car has similar traction etc on both surfaces so as close to onroad specs is what i'd prefer.
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:05 PM   #52
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I remove the spare and jack. That's pretty much it. Oh and I also take off the BBQ plate engine cover to assist cooling down between runs.
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