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Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 PM   #1
steerage250
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Default requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I want to make-up a trailer plug with some resistors that will fool my 2012 Titanium electronics into thinking that a trailer is connected, and disable the rear parking sensors when I have my bike rack on.

- Does anyone know what value of resistor is required (and what wattage)? (that will also fool the car into thinking the bulbs are OK)

- Presumably a resistor is needed on each light circuit (ie tail, stop, left & right indicators)?

thanks

Ian

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Old 01-04-2013, 11:00 PM   #2
AndyXR6T
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I think a magnet disables it???
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:44 PM   #3
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

You'll only need one on the reverse circuit. That's what they work off.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:26 AM   #4
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

If they have a separate fuse you could pull it out, or some of the trailer plugs have a reed switch. Have you just tried to put a trailer plug into the socket.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:12 AM   #5
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

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Originally Posted by arronm View Post
If they have a separate fuse you could pull it out, or some of the trailer plugs have a reed switch. Have you just tried to put a trailer plug into the socket.
Hence the magnet? ???
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:25 AM   #6
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

If its similar to the new ranger (which wouldn't surprise me) you will need 120ohm 3 watt
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:28 PM   #7
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Hi. If the trailer socket is like the early ones a small magnet in the lid of the socket activates a reed switch when the lid is closed, this then allows the reverse sensors to operate. Opening the flap disables the reverse sensors. An ideal opportunity to put a brake/tail lamp on the bike rack and wire it to a trailer plug. That way when you plug it in it stops the sensors from working and because it is attached to the bike rack you wont loose the plug. Cheers MD
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #8
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxtrot3 View Post
Hi. If the trailer socket is like the early ones a small magnet in the lid of the socket activates a reed switch when the lid is closed, this then allows the reverse sensors to operate. Opening the flap disables the reverse sensors. An ideal opportunity to put a brake/tail lamp on the bike rack and wire it to a trailer plug. That way when you plug it in it stops the sensors from working and because it is attached to the bike rack you wont loose the plug. Cheers MD
Magnet
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Mitsubishi Pajeros have a plug with the magnets built into the plug. maybe try one of those?
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:20 PM   #10
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

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Originally Posted by AndyXR6T View Post
Hence the magnet? ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyXR6T
Magnet
Hi Yes the socket has a magnet built in to the flap, When you open the flap the magnet moves away from the reed switch and turns OFF the sensors. YOU DO NOT NEED TO ADD A MAGNET. If the sensors dont work it is because the magnet has fallen out, you then replace the magnet in the flap to get the sensors working. Cheers MD
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:53 PM   #11
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

get a block of rubber or something to hold the flap open, ie car thinks trailer on , ie no reverse sensors
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:25 PM   #12
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I did try plugging-in my "7-pin flat-to-7-pin round" adapter, and that did not disable the rear parking sensors. I haven't had a close look for magnets and sensors in the flap of the socket, but from memory, it was all very flimsy in appearance and not something I would suspect has such a mechanism in it.

I did send an email to Ford, but they persist with their unhelpful stance of refusing to communicate with owners on technical matters and insist I contact a dealer service dept (which I will try, but with no great expectations of a quick satisfactory response).

Ian
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:48 PM   #13
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Hi. You may find it has a non genuine or non factory reverse sensors or tow pack, either of which means it will not turn off when the flap is open. Narva make both 7 & 12 pin sockets with a reed switch but it would be cheaper just to put a switch in the power feed to the sensors and turn then on and off yourself. Cheers MD
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #14
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

This is an interesting post!

My cars indicators are always flashing fast (all bulbs are normal and they're all fine). When they flash fast, it says "trailer indicator bulb fault" or something like that.

Could this mean that this reed switch has fallen out of my trailer plug cover?.. I have no idea what it looks like? :|
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:04 AM   #15
steerage250
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I carefully inspected my trailer socket on the weekend, and I am convinced there is no magnet or reed switch. I can see some clips in the flap that could potentially hold a magnet, and a corresponding slot in the body where areed switch might go - but they are empty.

A reed switch is a long thin glass tube (maybe a few mm in diameter, and 10 or 15 mm long).

I suspect that since the Titanium version senses blown trailer globes, it might be using the fact that if at least one bulb is detected as an indication of a trailer present. I am trying to follow this through with my Ford dealer, and if I get to the bottom of it, I will post the result.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:24 AM   #16
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Just went and had a look at my trailer plug and there definitely isnt a reed switch in there (although there are grooves where one could be).

In the mean time, Ive fashioned a trailer plug that simulates bulbs (so my indicators dont flash fast). It just a male plug with two load resistors connected to it (one to left and one to right indicators). The thing is, now my reverse sensors dont work.

Is there a way to keep them on whilst the ghetto trailer plug is connected?
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:50 PM   #17
steerage250
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

What value resistors did you use, and what wattage ?

My guess is that if the electronics detect any "globe", they will assume a trailer and disable the reversing sensors. Disabling the reversing sensor is my aim - whyat was your purpose in building the "ghetto plug"??
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:24 AM   #18
commz
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I think it was a 50w 6ohm resistor. I built the ghetto plug so as to slow down my indicators (back to normal). Without it, the indicator lights flash fast and everytime i use the indicator, a message on screen says that a trailer turnlight is faulty.
I would like to re-enable my reverse sensors though..anyone know how?
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:53 AM   #19
steerage250
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

The big mystery is why the system thinks you have a trailer attached in the first place. If my theory is correct, it is detecting some resistance on at least one globe connection.
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #20
commz
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Yeah, not sure how to go about it. Just using my ghetto plug in the meantime, but i lose out on rear parking sensors which is a bit of a bummer.
How are parking sensors enabled/disabled on this car (with a trailer connected)? If its something simple like the reed switch on the trailer plug, I could do soemthing to fix it.. otherwise Im screwed
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Old 23-12-2013, 05:23 PM   #21
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Thanks to mac_man_luke for putting me on the right track. He suggests 120 ohm 3W. I didn't have them in my junk box so tried 100 ohm 1W on the left and right indicators, and it worked. I calculate they should really be 1.5W, but so far they have survived due to the 50/50 duty cycle of the indicators. If you did use 120 ohm, 1W should suffice for them.
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Old 29-01-2014, 09:18 PM   #22
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Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

and another update - it needs a 3rd resistor on the stop/brake light circuit to stop it warning you of a blown stop light globe. I also went and bought some 120 ohm 1 watt resistors to replace the 100 ohm jobs I used originally, so I now have:

- 120 ohm 1 watt resistors on the left indicator, right indicator and stop/brake light circuits

Ian
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