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#1 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Hey all, went to replace rear brake pads on my Apr 2002 ute and already bought the correct rear pads for a series 2/3 ute ( DB1376). When i removed the old pads i found they are to suit a series one (DB1086) and the series 3 ones i bought won't fit (caliper won't fit over them even with piston all the way back). Has anyone else had the same issue or know why this would be. I now have to return the pads and swap them for series one pads which i aint very happy about.
Thoughts? |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Seaford, Victoria
Posts: 607
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Possibly been in a stack, gone up a gutter etc?
Might have just put a s1 rear end in it. That'd be my guess
__________________
FG MK2 XR6 Turbo ute. Swift Green. 307rwkw. AU T3 TE50 Congo Green. |
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#3 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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A rear end hit that would cause someone to change the diff including brakes surely would be quite massive and write off the car. The XR6 ute i recently wrecked was hit at the left rear that hard the chassis rail was bent badly but the diff appears to be ok. I think more likely the original diff shat itself for one reason or another and was replaced with a series one diff.
Incidently i have kept the diff out of that AUII XR6 ute including brakes, i have a few options now: 1. Stick to putting the series one pads on it for now, this is the most economical solution. However one of the rotors are badly worn so they may need replacing anyway, so i would need to get series one disks to go with the pads. 2. Keep the series 3 pads, buy a set of rotors to match, take the series 3 calipers off the XR6 diff and have them fitted. Downside is a) i would have to take it somewhere to get done because i hate bleeding brakes and b) condition of those calipers are unknown so may need a rebuild which all adds up to $$$$ i didn't see myself spending. 3. Just fit the series 1 pads on the worn discs and sort it out later when the funds permit. |
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#4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: vic
Posts: 434
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I would say use a bit of common sense.
If the disc isn't bad, stick with pads . If the disc is bad, fit a new set of S1 discs/pads and be done with it for a long time ! Discs aren't expensive. |
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#5 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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I think I will most likely go that way because upon inspection of the other side, the inside pad is down to absolute metal and the disc is very scraped so will definitely need replacing. Except these discs are expensive, DBA slotted. I can put in cheap discs in there but I can't get myself to do it so I'll just bite the bullet and get like for like.
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#6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: vic
Posts: 434
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Stock style discs on the rear will be fine.
You don't do track days ? |
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#7 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Don't do track days but the ute has coilovers and fair bit of poke so it gets driven 'spiritedly' often
![]() Bit more info is coming to light, I swapped the 1376 pads for the 1086 and found that the caliper still doesn't fit over them. Seems that I could have fitted the 1376s after all, turns out the only difference between the two pads is the series 2/3 (1376) are 1mm thicker than the series 1 (1086), but now that I have the 1086, i'll just fit them. Next time i'll buy the 1376s and they will fit fine. Why is the caliper not fitting over the pads you ask? one of the sliding pins is seized badly (still can't get it out) which was the reason for the caliper not fitting over the 1376 pads, not because they are the wrong pads for the caliper. This caliper is the same one which has a very badly worn inside pad and disk The other caliper fits fine over the new pads. The other thing I found was the thickness of the rotors is about 15mm, which means they are the 503 series 2/3 discs, so the ute has the correct discs. Series one discs are 501 and have maximum thickness of 10.5 mm. So the conclusion is the car has the correct brake rotors and calipers but it appears someone put series one pads in it which can be an easy mistake to make as they are identical except for the 1mm thickness difference. Now to have some fun with the stuck slider, I have ordered a set of DBA slotted 503S rotors to be installed when the caliper is sorted. Any questions fire away. |
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#8 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney , N.S.W
Posts: 427
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edited, it seems you worked it out
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#9 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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So I managed to get the seized slider out, just used a long bolt with a whole heap of round things in between it and the slider (washers, spanners, hole saw bits
![]() Here is a pic ![]() And here is the sliding pin, clearly was seized because of all that corrosion ![]() And here is the bottom one on the same caliper for comparison ![]() And here is why the discs need to be changed. This is the same side as the caliper with a seized pin. ![]() And finally the inside pad and the outside pad, no wonder the grinding noise was making me cringe. ![]() Tomorrow I'll get some Bendix grease and pick up the DBA rotors and install the lot. |
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#10 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Removed the old discs last night, the driver's side one with the seized pin is badly damaged
![]() New T2 DBAs, man DBA's are high quality stuff, just little things like packaging etc enhance the quality image. Also made in Australia. ![]() ![]() Put some of this on the hub to stop the disc rusting on to it in future, good stuff this. ![]() ![]() New discs on ![]() Job done ![]() Here is what the inside wheel hub face looked like ![]() after a quick wire wheeling ![]() and some anti seize ![]() While the car was up on the hoist I noticed it was weeping coolant, I found the thermostat housing was leaking, when I removed it, I found it was held on with clear silicone. So I applied some gasket maker stuff to it which cures in 24 hours and put it back on so couldn't really test the brakes (after all that work) or even start the car therefore it will have to wait until later tonight. |
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#11 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Took the ute for a long drive Friday night and I can definitely say this is the best it has ever braked. The feel is awesome, sheds speed very quickly with minimum fuss and no shudder.
Should also note the front rotors and pads were replaced from the brembo units I had (never buying them again) to the DBA rotors and Bendix SRT pads off Dean's XR8, the change was done two days before the rears were done but the transformation did not show as much until the rears were changed. Maybe I should do a thread for the ute as the work I have been doing do it is quickly adding up ![]() |
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#12 | ||
FG XR50 TURBO
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: reservoir
Posts: 4,536
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Sam you should've got my rear DBA 4000 rotors that i have
as going by the part # on the DBA box they are the same size as the one i got cheers Dean |
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#13 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Yes the rears are the same on sedan and ute. I would have definitely grabbed them if i knew i would need them.
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