LS Focus starting/ignition key? problem

[64ORD]

Hey guys

2006 LS Focus Zetec 140k on odometer

Anyone have experience with this starting issue.. insert key and turn, ignition on but won’t move any further to start engine. Problem is intermittent but getting worse by the day.. tried brand new spare key and still the same issue.

Any help much appreciated

Cheers Johnny

[fiestaz]

Originally Posted by 64ORD

Hey guys

2006 LS Focus Zetec 140k on odometer

Anyone have experience with this starting issue.. insert key and turn, ignition on but won’t move any further to start engine. Problem is intermittent but getting worse by the day.. tried brand new spare key and still the same issue.

Any help much appreciated

Cheers Johnny

Battery?

[64ORD]

Good battery and new starter motor.. it’s an issue at the ignition switch

[brucewarring]

I was thinking I hope it was in Park and the foot on the brake?

[marg99]

On the auto models they have a cut out so you cannot start unless the car is in neutral or park It may be that the selector cable/rods are out of adjustment and not putting the lever in the right spot to enable the engine to be cranked over.

[LaserLikeFocus]

I suggest you get a new ignition barrel. They last about a decade with regular use so the timeframe for your car fits. I replaced mine last year for around $220, for parts and labour.

Mine got worse over time and I did not notice that until it just failed and would not start. I presumed the engine bay and CPU ignition components were just getting old.


I've seen some unsolicited advice which says a heavy key ring puts strain on the washers in the ignition barrel tumbler device over time, but I'm a bit sceptical of this notion.

[LaserLikeFocus]

It could be the electronic switch per se but that will not be turned on unless the tumbler can rotate far enough (if the small springs and so on are damaged).

With mine, you could turn it somewhat (1 and 2) but it could not be pushed to 3 (before it would normally be clicked back towards 2 after the starter turned the engine over and successful cylinder ignition occurred).

I tried gentle tapping with a small hammer, a lot of dilithium grease, hard strikes with a big hammer and I gave up.

The barrel and switch are more or less one unit even if they are sold and installed as separate parts. They complete a circuit. I would replace both even if they are separate and one "still works".

The only other issues I can think of are bad contacts (battery [unlikely, you probably checked this over and over again], switch, ignition or sensors), an ECU issue or the relay switch. If you have a no start, no cranking condition it probably isn't the relay. You can probably test the relay with a multimeter or a circuit tester. I checked my fuse box and they were all fine.

I had to call in the NRMA. I always find it embarrassing but I love chatting to the towies when they give you a lift, they probably think I'm a nuisance like a hypochondriac at a doctor's.

If you're in a bigger place, you might be able to get the barrel replacement in less than a day.

[LaserLikeFocus]

I apologise.

I may have given you a bum steer. My car's issue was the ignition switch - found it on the receipt.