Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Ford Australia Vehicles > Small and Mid Sized Cars > Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 27-03-2021, 03:42 PM   #1
bucknbuzz
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Default replacing alternator

It seems my alternator is knackered on my 2010 tdci 2lt diesel. I've connected the multimeters neg lead to the neg battery terminal and positive lead to the postivie terminal of the alternator and I get a reading of 12.34amps, which is the same when both leads are on the battery terminals. When the engine is running, there is no charge going to the battery. I'm on the verge of trading this unit in so am looking for a standard unit to keep it going. Where would I find a reliable recond unit, or even 2nd hand unit? I've found the video online showing the process, that's not an issue, just the sourcing of a replacement unit.
cheers
B.
bucknbuzz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 27-03-2021, 05:13 PM   #2
GTLEGEND
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,699
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Every advice post I visit where OP are seeking advice for their new vehicle, he is there and adds valuable support and advice for rectifying the problem. Really is a Legend. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: The quality of information he provides is in depth and highly valued by those posting questions. 
Default Re: replacing alternator

Does your negative terminal have a battery monitoring sensor? If so then your vehicle is fitted with smart regenerative charging, meaning the PCM will only turn on the alternator to charge once the battery state of charge falls below 80%. So if the state of charge is above 80% then the PCM to save fuel turns the alternator off, thus not charging the battery and you will get normal battery voltage. This is normal operation.
GTLEGEND is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
2 users like this post:
Old 28-03-2021, 03:55 AM   #3
bucknbuzz
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Default Re: replacing alternator

no, this is the 2010 model, it is not fitted with the sensor. If the alternator was not charging, shouldn't the battery warning light come on?
bucknbuzz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-03-2021, 09:11 AM   #4
bucknbuzz
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Default Re: replacing alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTLEGEND View Post
Does your negative terminal have a battery monitoring sensor? If so then your vehicle is fitted with smart regenerative charging, meaning the PCM will only turn on the alternator to charge once the battery state of charge falls below 80%. So if the state of charge is above 80% then the PCM to save fuel turns the alternator off, thus not charging the battery and you will get normal battery voltage. This is normal operation.
My mistake, it seems it does have something attached to the negative terminal which I now take to be the BMS, was never aware of it and never noticed it in the past. This morning I attached the multimeter to the car, started it and got the revs up. At idle, the battery continues to slowly drain, no charge. At 1500rpm the battery does charge little by little. @ 2000rpm it charges a bit quicker but it took a few minutes to get from 12.21v to 13v. So, battery is holding charge so can assume is still good, alternator is working, battery is charging, albeit slowy. Turned A/C on, very slight drop in battery v, not an issue. turn lights on, battery V drops noticably then settles when revs increased. Dying diodes on alternator? Can you make sense of this?
thanks for your reply re the BMS, never knew of it.
cheers
B.
bucknbuzz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-03-2021, 09:55 AM   #5
marg99
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 804
Default Re: replacing alternator

voltage is low if the alternator is working it should be about 14 volts to charge a battery
marg99 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-03-2021, 10:11 AM   #6
bucknbuzz
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Default Re: replacing alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by marg99 View Post
voltage is low if the alternator is working it should be about 14 volts to charge a battery
yes, thats what I would have expected, 13-14v @ idle. What is it telling me, diode's need replacing?
bucknbuzz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-03-2021, 11:51 AM   #7
foxtrot3
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
foxtrot3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,480
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Technical articles. 
Default Re: replacing alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucknbuzz View Post
yes, thats what I would have expected, 13-14v @ idle. What is it telling me, diode's need replacing?
Hi. More likely the brushes need replacing, they will be at that point where they are just touching the slip ring and pass a little current for the field windings but not enough to produce a full output. The power diodes tend to last for ever and I think I have replaced about 2 exciter diodes in 50 years. Cheers MD
__________________


HI

I'M MICHAEL

2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON

light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote
foxtrot3 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
This user likes this post:
Old 28-03-2021, 12:05 PM   #8
GTLEGEND
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,699
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Every advice post I visit where OP are seeking advice for their new vehicle, he is there and adds valuable support and advice for rectifying the problem. Really is a Legend. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: The quality of information he provides is in depth and highly valued by those posting questions. 
Default Re: replacing alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucknbuzz View Post
My mistake, it seems it does have something attached to the negative terminal which I now take to be the BMS, was never aware of it and never noticed it in the past. This morning I attached the multimeter to the car, started it and got the revs up. At idle, the battery continues to slowly drain, no charge. At 1500rpm the battery does charge little by little. @ 2000rpm it charges a bit quicker but it took a few minutes to get from 12.21v to 13v. So, battery is holding charge so can assume is still good, alternator is working, battery is charging, albeit slowy. Turned A/C on, very slight drop in battery v, not an issue. turn lights on, battery V drops noticably then settles when revs increased. Dying diodes on alternator? Can you make sense of this?
thanks for your reply re the BMS, never knew of it.
cheers
B.
Sounds like its working normal to me. Suggest leave lights on for 20 mins or longer when car is turned off to drop the battery state of charge below 80% which would only drop below if you don't drive the car often. Then start and see if the alternator charge rate is up.
GTLEGEND is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-03-2021, 12:36 PM   #9
bucknbuzz
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Default Re: replacing alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTLEGEND View Post
Sounds like its working normal to me. Suggest leave lights on for 20 mins or longer when car is turned off to drop the battery state of charge below 80% which would only drop below if you don't drive the car often. Then start and see if the alternator charge rate is up.
great thinking 99!
bucknbuzz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 09:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL