Speakers

[Mulva]

Wife's Hyundai i45 YF Premium has a ****ed speaker in front passenger door, so figure I'll grab a replacement pair during Black Friday sales.

Google tells me size is 6.5, and Hyundai forums says can't be deeper than 3.5, but ****ed if I can find out whether they are 2-way or 3-way or ???

Will it matter if they are 2-ways and I replace with 3-ways, or replace 3-ways with 2-ways? I know it has tweeters up on the dash, so am guessing these would be "mid range" speakers but don't really know what that means (don't know if that means they are 2-ways)???

Not planning on replacing head unit or adding amps or anything like that - am only replacing the speakers because one is blown - so don't want to over-invest in speakers that the head-unit/power will not be able to make the most of, but by same token want to get value for money...so wondering if those that know more than me about car audio can recommend something bang-for-buck out of these:

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/...ce_default_asc

[T3rminator]

I've been told that if you "over tweet" it can sound weird. So I'd just go the same specs as the current, whether it be 2 way or 3 way.

[Citroënbender]

Celestion G12 would do nicely.

But seriously, look on Fleabay for used OEM speakers. That should inform if they’re 1, 2 or 3-way. Might be single cones with whizzers, ye olde povo special.

[Itsme]

Most likely a single cone speaker if oem, pull out the faulty one before you buy so you know what dimensions you need.

[Toiler]

See if you can find out the ohms (impedance) of the stock speaker via fleabay as well. Close match to stock is desirable.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by T3rminator

I've been told that if you "over tweet" it can sound weird.

[Mulva]

I tried all the eBay listings but they do not give specs: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18494370...Bk9SR6K-5vL_Yg

Also tried searching on the Part No 96330 3S000 and not getting much info on that either.

I'll rip them out this weekend to get a good look

[whynot]

Originally Posted by Mulva

Will it matter if they are 2-ways and I replace with 3-ways, or replace 3-ways with 2-ways? I know it has tweeters up on the dash, so am guessing these would be "mid range" speakers but don't really know what that means (don't know if that means they are 2-ways)???

In short, no. The crossover in the speaker will (should?) correctly split the electrical input to the correct driver; be that a two-way or three-way. Typically in a two-way unit the crossover between woofer and the tweeter is around 2-3kHz. In a three-way design the crossover between woofer and mid is around 1kHz and between the mid and the tweeter is around 3-5kHz.

There are valid arguments against the three-way design that use small mids and tweeters (as is found in some car speakers). The problem is diffraction developing around the crossover frequency. The other thing to keep in mind is the harsh reality that as we get older, our hearing drops off. As a rule of thumb, people under should be able to hear up to 12kHz and people under 40 should be able to hear 16kHz. No point in spending extra on a three-way unit if there is no way one can hear it in the first place.

My advice is concentrate first on finding something that fits.

After that, look at the specifications for the frequency response. It will say something like " ... 70 - 19,000Hz ..." The lower the first number the better (i.e 60Hz is better than 70Hz).

A bass guitar has a frequency response in the order of 41Hz to 400Hz. So, if one likes their rock and roll while driving along, this is the end of the frequency range to concentrate on. While the speaker's response will start to roll off below 60Hz, cabin gain (aka "transfer function") will make the bass sound much louder.

[asagaai]

Whynot has made a number of valid points, which I will add to.

Your amplifier is sending out a full spectrum signal in the wires, which has not been separated into high frequency and low frequency signals. Lets call this full amp signal.

The full amp signal goes to the 6.5 inch speaker in the door, and the full amp signal goes to the tweeter in the A pillar etc. The 6.5 inch speaker and the tweeter has electronic components inbuilt called a splitter, which splits the full amp signal into low range and sends the low range to the woofer, and high range frequency is sent to the tweeter.

The full amp signal also goes to the tweeter which the tweeters splitter splits into a high frequency signal which is then sent to the tweeter.

As Whynot said, if it is a 3 way, the splitter separates the full amp signal 3 ways -low/mid/high and sends the signal to the tweeter/mid/woofer of the speaker.

I personally hate 3 way 6.5 inch speakers, because of diffraction issues, as usually the tweeter and midrange speaker sits over the woofer in a cradle, diffracting the woofer signal.

Another problem is that crossovers done well are expensive, and 3 way crossovers in a usual 6.5 inch speaker are crap due to cost savings and space limitations.

Another problem with 3 ways are they are deeper/thicker, because the tweeter and the midrange sit on a cradle over the woofer, resulting in a thicker speaker.

The way I went, and if you are not using separates including separate splitter boxes using a 6.5 inch, is to use an integrated 2 way 6.5 inch with unified plane woofer and tweeter, with high quality inbuilt splitter.

Have a look at Hertz Millepro 2 way with woofer and tweeter, it's a unified plane speaker with tweeter placed in the middle of the woofer, which solves the diffraction issue.

https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-...-pro-mpx165-3/

As Whynot said, the frequency range is important, a good 6.5 inch should dig low to about 50-55 hz, and the high end over 20 KHZ. Although most humans cannot hear that high, a speaker going 21K etc means that the frequency at 12K to 18K will be smooth and not beginning to break up and distort, which means that the top end you can hear up that high will be clear and what audiophiles call "sweet".

Another thing to look for is the loudness, as most car amps are power limited. You want a speaker to produce high volume for given power, measured at 1 watt power, how loud in decibels (db) at 1 metre.

A good car speaker should be getting no less than 87db for 1 watt sensitivity at 1 metre.

A 90db for 1 watt sensitivity speaker will be audibly louder for the same power, than say 87 db at 1 watt sensitive speaker. Aim for a speaker 90 db, or higher.

To get an increase of 3db in volume, you need to double the power of the amp.

So if you have a speaker with 87 db for 1 watt compared to a speaker of 90 db for 1 watt, for that speaker of 87 db at 1 watt to get to 90 db, you have to double the amplifier power to 2 watts to get the 3db volume increase. To get that speaker to go to 93db, the amplifier now needs to be 4 watts, for 96 db the amp needs to be 8 watts and so on....... You can see why the db sensitivity in car speakers is so important, if using the OEM headunit.

About doubling up tweeters- if you get quality speaker that has high sensitivity and a sweet high frequency sound, it will envelop and swamp the cheap OEM tweeter, and will not be an issue- at least it was in my case putting 4 Hertz Mille Pro into my Falcon FGX, which had crappy poor quality speakers- the OEM tweeter is just nullified by the sweet top end of the Mille Pro which is sensitive and loud.

Anyway- enough nerd talk- good luck in your searches.

[Mulva]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the responses

[foxtrot3]

Hi. Haven't yet seen a full crossover on a set of 3 way car speakers, they just tend to use caps to cut the low frequencys out of the signal going to the hi-mids and tweeters but don't put a choke on to cut the highs going to the low-mid driver. If the factory system has splits it will probably be a single cone bass driver connected straight to the head unit and a tweeter with a cap to cut out the bass. Even though they send the full range signal to the bass driver it cant reproduce the higher frequencys that the tweeter can so other than some wasted energy (getting turned into heat) its not really a problem. For replacement speakers go with some entry level splits from a well known supplier and just fit the bass drivers to start with as it may be more trouble that it is worth to change the tweeters (ie: changing the tweeters on a nissan means cutting the retainers for the a pillar trim and at the moment these are unobtainable and would need replacing to hold the trim in place if air bags go off). Cheers MD