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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS |
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23-06-2006, 09:48 AM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 2,224
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Hey guys,
Yet another problem with the EB, but I need urgent help because it's going in for the RW today and I need it fixed ASAP, so I don't have to re-book it and waste my time again. That's why it's here, and not in TECH! The temp gauge keeps going up and up and up when you drive it around, then when you rev it high, it comes right down to normal again. I thought the new radiator could be blocked or something so I changed it back, still the same. Nothing else was changed in the cooling system, just radiator and overflow, so what could have gone out? I've just pulled the thermostat out and put it in boiling water and it didn't open. It's a 82 degree one, and I read somewhere when I was like 12 that if you put it in boiling water it should open. Doug just threw that theory out the window, he reckons it needs water pressure to open!! Ideas, opinions!?? What a HEAP OF JUNK!!! I'm gunna have a nervous breakdown. Sundeep
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1988 EA S-Pack|MPI|LSD|AIT turbo manifold|Garrett GT3540|3" Exhaust turbo back|Cooler|Sports ryder shocks|Pedders lows|Resprayed|Microtech LT8s|60lb Injectors|Bosch 044 with surge tank|3000 RPM stall|Ported AU head|Turbo grind cam|Crow double valve springs|1.3mm MLS headgasket|C4 Conversion|Built bottom end|Custom plenum|10.6@125MPH |
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23-06-2006, 09:54 AM | #2 | ||
- BOOYEH -
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Geelong
Posts: 869
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What about the water pump prop? If the coolant condition was bad mabey it stuffed it up. Might of lost a few fins.
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1993 EBII Fairmont Turbo T04e 7 psi
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23-06-2006, 09:55 AM | #3 | ||
- BOOYEH -
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Geelong
Posts: 869
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Also, mabey try running the car without a thermostat from a cold start
EDIT : Just figured it out Sunny, needs a turbo. Mabey 2. ;)
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1993 EBII Fairmont Turbo T04e 7 psi
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23-06-2006, 10:25 AM | #4 | ||
The 'Stihl' Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TAS
Posts: 27,586
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FFS...Take it to a mechanic. You said you would have a crack yourself, you have, didn't work; just give in!
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23-06-2006, 10:27 AM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,359
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I think it should open in boiling water. The spring should contract at the rating of the thermostat but that doesnt explain it getting better with more revs.
Water pump? Just rev it heaps. She'll be right. Is that heaps of revs on the spot or while driving? If its while driving the air could be cooling it enough. Did you fix the thermofans? Are they AU ones and facing the right direction?
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Turbo AU ute ~ Nice legs, shame about the face. 282rwkw at 15psi. |
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23-06-2006, 12:46 PM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 158
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Thermostat will open in boiling water. If it doesn't open it is stuffed. If you just boil the kettle then pour some water on the thermostat the water may have cooled enough not to open. Best test is pot on stove with thermostat in it. It should open just before water starts to boil.
cheers Scott |
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23-06-2006, 01:50 PM | #7 | ||
Oops, I slipped....
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Adelaide, SA
Posts: 1,861
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The thermostat doesn't need pressure to open. Like everyone else has said, put it in a saucepan full of water on the stove. Or you could replace it anyway. The genuine Ford ones are probably the best, they have the extra hole drilled in them already, and cost less than $20 from Ford.
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1995 EF Fairmont 5.0 Heritage Green - BTR with TCI 2500 stall - Ported E7's - Pacemaker Tri-Y's - 3" Mandrel-bent Lukey Exhaust 1984 XE S-Pack 250 Sno White - LPG - Single Rail - 2.5" Exhaust "Just because you don't understand something, does not make it wrong" |
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23-06-2006, 02:52 PM | #8 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 2,224
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Quote:
Me and Gill ended up figuring it out. It was a combination of a dud thermostat and air in the system. Fixed it all up, and it's sweet. Saved $120 there by not taking it to a mechanic, and $30 he would have charged for a thermostat. Got a brand newy for $13+$2 for a gasket. Question #2: Apparently you can get K-Frame end castor bushes for EA-ED that are 2 piece Urethane and don't have to be pressed in. Does anybody know of these or have tried these? RW went OK, but there are a few things that popped up out of the blue. Sundeep
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1988 EA S-Pack|MPI|LSD|AIT turbo manifold|Garrett GT3540|3" Exhaust turbo back|Cooler|Sports ryder shocks|Pedders lows|Resprayed|Microtech LT8s|60lb Injectors|Bosch 044 with surge tank|3000 RPM stall|Ported AU head|Turbo grind cam|Crow double valve springs|1.3mm MLS headgasket|C4 Conversion|Built bottom end|Custom plenum|10.6@125MPH |
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23-06-2006, 02:57 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,359
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Whats on the list Sundeep?
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Turbo AU ute ~ Nice legs, shame about the face. 282rwkw at 15psi. |
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23-06-2006, 06:12 PM | #10 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Smoking the bags in a Turbo 6-speed ED!
Posts: 1,208
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Yeah I have the two piece bushes on my car - I redid the whole front end using k-mac stuff and didnt have to press anything in, they are all two piece, and come with grease as well.
I also agree with Gubas' edit in his second post |
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23-06-2006, 06:51 PM | #11 | ||
MADED.6
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 2,676
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nah mate the thermostat opens by heat not pressure put on it and it should open easy as in boiling water but u fixed it anyway.
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TUFAU-8 Get Stroked. AU Stroked 5.6L GHIA |
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23-06-2006, 07:39 PM | #12 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,078
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you should have taken it to a mechanic you hack. :P
What does it need for RWC ? Did you get the trailing arms sorted out ? |
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23-06-2006, 08:09 PM | #13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 2,224
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Trailing arms were sorted out, took them to pedders in FTG and they pressed em in for $11!
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1988 EA S-Pack|MPI|LSD|AIT turbo manifold|Garrett GT3540|3" Exhaust turbo back|Cooler|Sports ryder shocks|Pedders lows|Resprayed|Microtech LT8s|60lb Injectors|Bosch 044 with surge tank|3000 RPM stall|Ported AU head|Turbo grind cam|Crow double valve springs|1.3mm MLS headgasket|C4 Conversion|Built bottom end|Custom plenum|10.6@125MPH |
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23-06-2006, 10:21 PM | #14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hoppers Crossing
Posts: 407
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Try taking out the thermostat again this time grab 1/8 " drill bit and drill 2 or 3 holes around the flat of the thermostat it allows minimal flow without effecting cold running see how that goesmaybe also radiator core may have a few blocked tubes so give it a good reverse flush and refill with only mixed coolant not straight water that is the worst thing you can do for alloy heads...ian
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24-06-2006, 02:26 AM | #15 | ||
Oops, I slipped....
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Adelaide, SA
Posts: 1,861
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Ford released a bulletin some time ago saying to do this to all E-Series thermostats, if you buy a genuine Ford thermostat, they have an extra hole drilled into them. It stops the hot coolant from shock loading the radiator when the thermostat opens, which causes the core and side tanks to weaken.
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1995 EF Fairmont 5.0 Heritage Green - BTR with TCI 2500 stall - Ported E7's - Pacemaker Tri-Y's - 3" Mandrel-bent Lukey Exhaust 1984 XE S-Pack 250 Sno White - LPG - Single Rail - 2.5" Exhaust "Just because you don't understand something, does not make it wrong" |
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