Water in the Sump oil

beancounter1 · 22-08-2006, 08:04 PM

My EB has water in the sump. I have removed the whole sump, and I can see radiator coolant slowly dripping down from number 4 cylinder. I presume this means that there is a quantity of water sitting on top of this cylinder.

I changed the head gasket only a month ago. There are currently no visible oil/water leaks coming from the head gasket. Cylinder no 4 was exactly where the head gasket had previously blown. I did not touch the block when I did the head gasket, as it looked in reasonable condition.The head was shaved - but it was a pretty average job.

What could this be ? Cracked cylinder. The motor has done over 300,000km.

Any suggestions how to fix it..

The motor is running fine (at the moment). What are the consequences of ignoring the problem ?

ratter · 22-08-2006, 08:06 PM

Did you get the head pressure tested when it was off?

Did you fit new head bolts?

39ClevoUte · 22-08-2006, 08:08 PM

It is probably still a head gasket, maybe leaking water into the cylider. Sometimes the block needs a shave also (deck). At 300k It should have been rebuilt if it was apart.

beancounter1 · 22-08-2006, 08:14 PM

Yes, the head was pressure tested as OK. Yes, new head bolts were used and properly tensioned.

39ClevoUte · 22-08-2006, 08:17 PM

The block can be just as "warped" as the head and allow the gasket to not seal properly and hence leak water into the cylinder.

XR Martin · 22-08-2006, 08:18 PM

Yeah you should check the trueness of the block (with a long metal rule) But being cast iron its unlikey its been warped. Actually im 99% sure it doesnt warp, it just cracks.
Might also still be head related

ratter · 22-08-2006, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54Ghia

The block can be just as "warped" as the head and allow the gasket to not seal properly and hence leak water into the cylinder.

Very rarely.

39ClevoUte · 22-08-2006, 08:20 PM

Technically probably more correct, can also be burnt.

ratter · 22-08-2006, 08:20 PM

The heads can corrode around water jackets and may not seal correctly, but that should have been picked up while the head was off.

ratter · 22-08-2006, 08:21 PM

Was the block cleaned properly, no old gasket material left?

beancounter1 · 22-08-2006, 08:34 PM

The block was fully cleaned when the head was off. Absolutely no old gasket remnants left. The block was not shaved or scientifically tested for flatness.

39ClevoUte · 22-08-2006, 08:38 PM

A really easy way is to do a "draw file" across it. You might be shocked at what you see.

blownba · 22-08-2006, 11:39 PM

Another good way to clean and check the block is to scrape the excess with a good quality scraper then use a new oilstone (yes the ones you sharpen knives with) to sand the block down. This will show all the high low spots of the block and give a good indication if its flat. When finished you should always check the block with a straight edge. Falcon sixes are not too bad for warpage, but they do pull up around the bolt holes a little. This can be flattened a little with the oilstone.
The biggest thing to check is the size of the water passage holes when they are corroded and that they do not intrude into the firing ring of the head gasket. You can lay the new head gasket on the block and check the dimensions that the water passage should be if the hole is more than say 3 or 4mm bigger than the original hole its time to worry. The passage should be miles away from the steel firing ring of the head gasket.
Another good tip is to always replace the head locating dowels. They only cost a couple of bucks from ford.

beancounter1 · 23-08-2006, 07:07 PM

Thanks for the tips on the block.........

Just to keep things on point -

1. Any guesses what the problem could be ?
2. What are the best solutions ?
3. What are the consequences of ignoring the problem ?

The Goodz · 23-08-2006, 08:36 PM

1. When you put the head back on did you put in the head dowels? (2 round tubular pins that line the block up with the head). Could be cracked head, could be bad sealing, head not aligned properly, dodgy gasket, warped block, warped head, could be anything.

2. Pull the head back off and start again. Also check that the holes for the head bolts aren't filled with oil or anything, because if there is any liquid in the bottom of the holes the bolts won't screw in far enough due to pressure build up underneath.

3. Consequences? Other than compression locking cylinder 4 and bending a conrod, letting the oil continue to mix with water, effectively like running your engine with water instead of oil and seizing the thing, and the fact that it will cost you 3 times as much, if not 10.

Alex