Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Waxit has launched an EOFY sale, with up to 50% off storewide.

Having just made a sizable order, which I had been holding off on until today, the Carpro line is especially attractive at the moment, with up to 40% off depending on the product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/carpro

Of note, Reset in 500 and 1000ml bottles is great value at $19.95 or $31.95.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...s/carpro-reset

Likewise, Hydr02 Lite -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...41196342116441

At under $13.00 for a 500ml bottle, InnerQD is a steal at that price................I bought two.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...carpro-innerqd

ECH20 has become one of my favorites, a 500ml bottle sitting at just on $15.00 is amazing value when you consider how much product that will mix up. And while its sold as a "water-less wash", ECH20 makes a great quick detailer/drying aid as well.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...20-concentrate

In addition to that, the NV range is very enticing at the moment. Of note, Purify in either 500ml, 1000ml or 4-liter sizes is brilliant value for an iron remover. Of all that I have used, the NV duo (Purify and Purge) are the least putrid smelling iron removers on the market, without sacrificing cleaning power.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...nt=17821329412

[jgmdat]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Same! Do you dilute it for the foam cannon? I use it straight and let the foam cannon dilute.

Having said that, iK have now fitted a schrader valve to select models so that you can pressurize it with an air compressor or inflator.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ro-2-sprayer-1
https://detailingshed.com.au/products/ik-multi-pro-12

They will also have (poorly integrated and overpriced) battery powered models of the larger units, with the smaller ones arriving at the end of this year.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...attery-powered
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...attery-powered

I use it straight and let the cannon dilute it, so easy and convenient.

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Likewise, Hydr02 Lite -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...41196342116441
]

I'm a big fan of carpro and was browsing their products recently and was meaning to ask if you'd tried hydr02 and hydr02 lite.

Also elixr I think was another one from memory. I've been using the NV spray on coatings (lustre, jet, boostv2) and was checking out the carpro options.

I was using the glass cleaner clarify for a while until I knocked over the bottle and wasted most of it. I noticed they do a clarify phobic or something?

So to summarise, looking for feedback on
Hydr02 and hydr02 lite
Elixir
Clarify phobic
Reload 2.0

Thanks

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

I'm a big fan of carpro and was browsing their products recently and was meaning to ask if you'd tried hydr02 and hydr02 lite.

Also elixr I think was another one from memory. I've been using the NV spray on coatings (lustre, jet, boostv2) and was checking out the carpro options.

I was using the glass cleaner clarify for a while until I knocked over the bottle and wasted most of it. I noticed they do a clarify phobic or something?

So to summarise, looking for feedback on
Hydr02 and hydr02 lite
Elixir
Clarify phobic
Reload 2.0

Thanks

Ooooo, my favorite type of question!

Hydr02 -

I have been using this for many years now, mainly for a quick and easy way of getting some protection/hydrophobics onto wheels without having to remove them. I also use it as a "rinse-aid" on cars I that have absolutely no protection on them, mainly to make drying easier, but it also boosts gloss and slickness. I only use it like that on other peoples cars though.

There are three versions of Hydr02 -

Hydr02 Concentrate - as the name suggests, this needs to be diluted prior to use. I've found it a bit unstable when mixing my own, can't pin down why though.

Hydr02 Foam - basically the product suspended in soap and foamed on and rinsed off. I have not tried this version, nor do I recommend it.

Hydr02 Lite - the one to buy. This is pre-diluted and much more consistent in how it works.



EliXir -

This is a hybrid between Reload and ECH20, basically a ceramic quick detailer. I've found this product to be a bit finicky, so I rarely use it. But, I have had great results using it as a topper to a Carpro ceramic coating, product synergy in other words. Personally, I prefer Boost v2 or Meg's HCD.



Clarify Phobic -

I have a bottle of this but hated it. I'm in the minority here because others who have tried it loved it. I found it to be a smeary mess, leaving a ghosted finish that I had to go back and fix with a real glass cleaner. I suspect it didn't play well with my Gyeon glass coating.



The best and most consistent glass cleaner for me is Stoner's Invisible Glass, and it's readily available from Supercheap/Autobarn ect too. It doesn't have the WOW factor, but it just WORKS. I also rate Gyeon Glass as well.



Reload 2.0 -

Reload was one of the original spray sealants, but as the competition responded, it got left behind a little. The second generation keeps the impressive gloss and slickness, but improves on the longevity and ease of application. I really like it and prefer it to the NV "twins" (Lustre/Jet) as I find those finicky to get right. Reload, to me, is easier to apply and a product I regularly recommend.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by jgmdat

I use it straight and let the cannon dilute it, so easy and convenient.

Agreed!

Just be mindful that Brake Buster, while relatively safe/mild on wheels, is hard on the equipment. I've yet to kill a foam cannon with it but have destroyed numerous spray heads. Depending on what foam cannon you use, you might need to replace or clean the mesh filter at some stage.

[prydey]

Thanks as always DFB. I should have known you'd have sampled all of them.

The clarify phobic seemed a bit gimmicky to me. I found clarify to work quite well. Currently using NV clarity simply because I bought it for the paint cleaning process and because I'm tight will use it up before buying more.

Yet to use stoner's but it is universally liked so that will be next.

Elixir I'll give a miss.

Hydr02 I've read can be used in a similar way to bowdens happy ending. Foam on, spray off, as a post wash finish. Do you agree with this?

Reload2.0 sounds like it will be next on my list. I don't have enough NV product left to do a full car so perfect opportunity.

Thanks again for the feedback.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Thanks as always DFB. I should have known you'd have sampled all of them.

The clarify phobic seemed a bit gimmicky to me. I found clarify to work quite well. Currently using NV clarity simply because I bought it for the paint cleaning process and because I'm tight will use it up before buying more.

Yet to use stoner's but it is universally liked so that will be next.

Elixir I'll give a miss.

Hydr02 I've read can be used in a similar way to bowdens happy ending. Foam on, spray off, as a post wash finish. Do you agree with this?

Reload2.0 sounds like it will be next on my list. I don't have enough NV product left to do a full car so perfect opportunity.

Thanks again for the feedback.

No problem.

NV Clarity is a better glass cleaner than a paint prep product, it has no lubrication to it and I always found it grabby. A rare dud from NV in my opinion.

Hydr02 is a spray and rinse sealant like Happy Endings (Hydr02 Foam) and Wet Dreams (Hydr02 Lite), or Gyeon Wet Coat ect. Always wash before applying, always apply to a wet surface and rinse immediately. Do not use in the sun.................trust me, you don't want to do that, ask me how I know.

You will like Reload, its super glossy and slick and a very simple spray, wipe, wipe application.

[fordomatic]

What kind of longevity do you find with Reload 2? I really didn't like the first version, lucky to get 2 months out of it with a car outside. I've used Lustre for years and get 5-6 months for a car outside and for a garaged car I got to 18 months and it was still beading, but applied some more.

I'm keen to give reload another go but if it only last 2-3 months, it's not for me.

I've not had issues with NV Lustre or Jet except hazing. I've found if you use too much it will haze but then on the first wash it sorts that out. Very similar to Collinite 845, hazes a lot, first wash removes it.

I'm looking as getting a few things, i'd like to try a new sealant/wax and also another polish.

[swamp]

hi
My detailing regimen for a high quality job .

Regular wash with a Mother wash N wax

Clay bar with a dedicated clay spray
Rupes Coarse compound and blue pad
Polish with either Rupes green or yellow pad and coresponding polish
Apply Synthetic Hard Wax
Apply Synthetic Carnauba paste

Tools
Rupes 15mm DA Big foot 240v corded series 1
Flex tool 3 inch rotary ,,,very good machine for glass polishing and spot paint correction


NB RUPES have a terrible warranty via GNG sales [importer] . I used it 4-5 times just outta warranty and 10weeks and 250$ for the speed control unit to be replaced

Performance
Rupes mark the pad with marker pen , light pressure and let the machine do the work . /If heavy handed the DA part will not work

Flex 3 inch rotary
comfortable , smooth
great for hard water stain in glass ,. Also great for tight profiled area polishing/compounding

--------------------
Alloy polishing
Craft line 100mm polish kit from bunnings ,,use it in your drill
Aluminium deoxidizer by Calfornia customs ,helps remove heavy tarnish
Pink stuff bunnings ,, usethis as a heavy compound turns alloy silver
Autosol 1 kg tin turns alloy to mirror finish

[prydey]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

What kind of longevity do you find with Reload 2? I really didn't like the first version, lucky to get 2 months out of it with a car outside. I've used Lustre for years and get 5-6 months for a car outside and for a garaged car I got to 18 months and it was still beading, but applied some more.

I'm keen to give reload another go but if it only last 2-3 months, it's not for me.

I've not had issues with NV Lustre or Jet except hazing. I've found if you use too much it will haze but then on the first wash it sorts that out. Very similar to Collinite 845, hazes a lot, first wash removes it.

I'm looking as getting a few things, i'd like to try a new sealant/wax and also another polish.

I also noticed the NV coatings had great longevity. My territory was a daily driver and lustre/jet combo lasted well over a year although I was using boostv2 fairly regularly on my drying towel. I only have it the proper coating treatment once and after that it was just during the drying process and water was still beading great even after a couple of years. Can't be bothered searching back through the thread to see when I first applied it.

I'm willing to give carpro reload2 a go though. Given the ease of application, longevity isn't really a massive concern for me.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

What kind of longevity do you find with Reload 2? I really didn't like the first version, lucky to get 2 months out of it with a car outside. I've used Lustre for years and get 5-6 months for a car outside and for a garaged car I got to 18 months and it was still beading, but applied some more.

I'm keen to give reload another go but if it only last 2-3 months, it's not for me.

I've not had issues with NV Lustre or Jet except hazing. I've found if you use too much it will haze but then on the first wash it sorts that out. Very similar to Collinite 845, hazes a lot, first wash removes it.

I'm looking as getting a few things, i'd like to try a new sealant/wax and also another polish.

Reload 2.0 is supposed to "last up to 3 months on daily drivers", but as we know, those claims can greatly vary depending on a number of factors. From memory, the original version would last 6 to 8 weeks (don't hold me to that though).

To be honest, I can't really provide a longevity observation on Reload 2.0 owing to the use of drying aids with varying degrees of "protection". For the most part, a spray sealant is often a compromise in terms between longevity, ease of use and gloss/slickness levels. Personally, I don't put a lot of expectation on how long they last.

So, I think you'd probably be disappointed with Reload 2.0. The difference between the original and the 2.0 is incremental, not a revolution. I've found it more forgiving during the application process, but not night and day.

Two products I would direct you too, both simple spray and wipe applications, one lasting considerably longer than the other.

Koch Chemie S0.02 - if you can get past the price, which is 3 time more expensive in Australia than the US, this product is probably the easiest spray sealant on the market to apply. Gloss and slickness are its hallmarks, along with very good water beading. I've noticed this last very well on a car parked outdoors 24/7. While the bottle is expensive, a little goes a long way.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...e2a0013b&_ss=r
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...747f6280&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/spray-sealant-s0-02/

This Range Rover was hammered when I arrived, covered in swirls and looking quite dull. After a full decon wash (iron remover, alkaline soap, acidic soap), I applied S0.02. While I didn't polish the car and the marring still present, it at least left with some nice gloss and slickness.







Gyeon Can Coat EVO - this is a strange one, it's not a traditionally applied ceramic coating, it behaves like one. That may or may not be a good thing. On the plus side, you can easily get 10 months and beyond from it, I got 12+ on my a car parked outdoors 24/7. It's also very simple and fast to apply and delivers true ceramic coating hydrophobics. On the negative, it brings with it the usual ceramic coating hangups, ie water spot susceptible, needs periodic decon washing, and lacks slickness.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...d1924599&_ss=r
https://www.repco.com.au/car-care-pa...rch=can%20coat

Important to note, this is not sprayed directly onto the vehicle surface, rather 2 sprays into a towel or applicator per panel. Also, its best applied in a garage, and away from other vehicles, overspray can cause high spots. Other than that, Can Coat delivers longevity far beyond its ease of application would indicate.

[bangm001]

Put the seat together, nice simple bit of kit. Should save my back and neck for the next polish, but i'm sure i'll use it for more than that too! Wheels around most flooring with ease.

[bangm001]

Wow that Range Rover above looks fantastic in the pics! Such a deep blackness to it!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Wow that Range Rover above looks fantastic in the pics! Such a deep blackness to it!

I was surprised at how well it came up. Naturally, up close the marring is still there, the result from years of washing with the soap broom at a pay-n-spray.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Reload 2.0 is supposed to "last up to 3 months on daily drivers", but as we know, those claims can greatly vary depending on a number of factors. From memory, the original version would last 6 to 8 weeks (don't hold me to that though).

To be honest, I can't really provide a longevity observation on Reload 2.0 owing to the use of drying aids with varying degrees of "protection". For the most part, a spray sealant is often a compromise in terms between longevity, ease of use and gloss/slickness levels. Personally, I don't put a lot of expectation on how long they last.

So, I think you'd probably be disappointed with Reload 2.0. The difference between the original and the 2.0 is incremental, not a revolution. I've found it more forgiving during the application process, but not night and day.

Two products I would direct you too, both simple spray and wipe applications, one lasting considerably longer than the other.

Koch Chemie S0.02 - if you can get past the price, which is 3 time more expensive in Australia than the US, this product is probably the easiest spray sealant on the market to apply. Gloss and slickness are its hallmarks, along with very good water beading. I've noticed this last very well on a car parked outdoors 24/7. While the bottle is expensive, a little goes a long way.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...e2a0013b&_ss=r
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...747f6280&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/spray-sealant-s0-02/

This Range Rover was hammered when I arrived, covered in swirls and looking quite dull. After a full decon wash (iron remover, alkaline soap, acidic soap), I applied S0.02. While I didn't polish the car and the marring still present, it at least left with some nice gloss and slickness.

image

image

image

Gyeon Can Coat EVO - this is a strange one, it's not a traditionally applied ceramic coating, it behaves like one. That may or may not be a good thing. On the plus side, you can easily get 10 months and beyond from it, I got 12+ on my a car parked outdoors 24/7. It's also very simple and fast to apply and delivers true ceramic coating hydrophobics. On the negative, it brings with it the usual ceramic coating hangups, ie water spot susceptible, needs periodic decon washing, and lacks slickness.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...d1924599&_ss=r
https://www.repco.com.au/car-care-pa...rch=can%20coat

Important to note, this is not sprayed directly onto the vehicle surface, rather 2 sprays into a towel or applicator per panel. Also, its best applied in a garage, and away from other vehicles, overspray can cause high spots. Other than that, Can Coat delivers longevity far beyond its ease of application would indicate.

image

image

Thanks mate, will stick with lustre/jet combo and 845 for the garage queens.

Going to try the Can Coat on the tops of the Sportsman, the Nova Evo on the tops of it are toast. Need to correct it again and then do the Can Coat.

Going to give NV Finnese a go as well.

So close to buying that 3", it's hard to justify for me as I know I don't actually need it.

EDIT: Nova Evo on the Territory is starting to die now, I topped it with Boost last wash. It's covered in water spots, bad ones. I'm not going to correct it again, just going to chuck Lustre on it and forget about it. It's the daily hack and my love for it is non existent.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Thanks mate, will stick with lustre/jet combo and 845 for the garage queens.

Going to try the Can Coat on the tops of the Sportsman, the Nova Evo on the tops of it are toast. Need to correct it again and then do the Can Coat.

Going to give NV Finnese a go as well.

So close to buying that 3", it's hard to justify for me as I know I don't actually need it.

EDIT: Nova Evo on the Territory is starting to die now, I topped it with Boost last wash. It's covered in water spots, bad ones. I'm not going to correct it again, just going to chuck Lustre on it and forget about it. It's the daily hack and my love for it is non existent.

I've had a good run in the past using 845 as the base layer with Jet layered on top. So, a good base layer protectant with a modern Si02 topcoat to provide the next level water beading.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I've had a good run in the past using 845 as the base layer with Jet layered on top. So, a good base layer protectant with a modern Si02 topcoat to provide the next level water beading.

Haven't tried that combo, will give it whirl, cheers mate.

[swamp]

hi
Synthetic paste carnauba,, last 4-6 times longer in ***hot weather*** vs natural carnauba . Paste generally has higher concentration of carnauba and additives vs liqud versions .
I have proved this many times after switching to synthetic additives .
This was advice given to me from major name brand in USA

[swamp]

***303 Graphene trim coating
--suppose to be for external soft plastic trim but works really well on replaced dashboard of Pj PK ranger .Does not work that great on bumper trim below headlights very hard almost plastic

** Cerakote
Headlight Restorer
Trim Coat
Both work well
---Headlights sanded using my own 600/800/1000/1500... used kit 2000/3000
Applied there resin wipes looks good
---- Trim coat Used on 100% dash and radiator grille ,,will use on door/mirror trim when I`m finished mechanical

[stannoplan]

Just had a relatively new, 2 years old VW T-Cross come into the family. I was excited to learn that the previous owner had spent $2k on the premium IGL Kenzo professional coating package with a lifetime warranty. You can see where this is going.

All excited for the first wash to see how the pro coating compares to my attempts at NV-Evo and UK3.0 around the same age. Used some Gyeon Restart which I find freshens the other coatings up.

It was like it never had a coating, water just sat there, its hard to describe how sad it is to draw a towel over an 'uncoated' panel after you are used to it gliding off. I rewashed it with some decon wash i had, same thing.

Any suggestions? I am not keen to do the dance with the detailer. Interestingly, he advertises dont get ripped by the dealership, he sells the same package for $995.

I feel the coating was incorrectly applied and I wont bring it back. ATM I'm considering NV-Evo (on sale), trying G-Techniq CS Lite or MOHS combo. Evo has been great for its ability to keep dusty cars that rarely get washed (children ;( ) looking pretty clean and shiny.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Ooooo, my favorite type of question!

Hydr02 -

I have been using this for many years now, mainly for a quick and easy way of getting some protection/hydrophobics onto wheels without having to remove them. I also use it as a "rinse-aid" on cars I that have absolutely no protection on them, mainly to make drying easier, but it also boosts gloss and slickness. I only use it like that on other peoples cars though.

There are three versions of Hydr02 -

Hydr02 Concentrate - as the name suggests, this needs to be diluted prior to use. I've found it a bit unstable when mixing my own, can't pin down why though.

Hydr02 Foam - basically the product suspended in soap and foamed on and rinsed off. I have not tried this version, nor do I recommend it.

Hydr02 Lite - the one to buy. This is pre-diluted and much more consistent in how it works.

image

EliXir -

This is a hybrid between Reload and ECH20, basically a ceramic quick detailer. I've found this product to be a bit finicky, so I rarely use it. But, I have had great results using it as a topper to a Carpro ceramic coating, product synergy in other words. Personally, I prefer Boost v2 or Meg's HCD.

image

Clarify Phobic -

I have a bottle of this but hated it. I'm in the minority here because others who have tried it loved it. I found it to be a smeary mess, leaving a ghosted finish that I had to go back and fix with a real glass cleaner. I suspect it didn't play well with my Gyeon glass coating.

image

The best and most consistent glass cleaner for me is Stoner's Invisible Glass, and it's readily available from Supercheap/Autobarn ect too. It doesn't have the WOW factor, but it just WORKS. I also rate Gyeon Glass as well.

image

Reload 2.0 -

Reload was one of the original spray sealants, but as the competition responded, it got left behind a little. The second generation keeps the impressive gloss and slickness, but improves on the longevity and ease of application. I really like it and prefer it to the NV "twins" (Lustre/Jet) as I find those finicky to get right. Reload, to me, is easier to apply and a product I regularly recommend.

image

DFB do you know if Hydr02 can be applied with a foam cannon? I'm wondering what other comparable option there are for Bowden's Happy Ending. Its so convenient for the less important cars (like those of the children) to very quickly get some protection and water beading on the car after a quick wash.

[DFB FGXR6]

Just had a relatively new, 2 years old VW T-Cross come into the family. I was excited to learn that the previous owner had spent $2k on the premium IGL Kenzo professional coating package with a lifetime warranty. You can see where this is going.

Yep!

All excited for the first wash to see how the pro coating compares to my attempts at NV-Evo and UK3.0 around the same age. Used some Gyeon Restart which I find freshens the other coatings up.

It was like it never had a coating, water just sat there, its hard to describe how sad it is to draw a towel over an 'uncoated' panel after you are used to it gliding off. I rewashed it with some decon wash i had, same thing.

Any suggestions? I am not keen to do the dance with the detailer. Interestingly, he advertises dont get ripped by the dealership, he sells the same package for $995.

A few things could be going on here -

Firstly, the coating could be "clogged". However, you have already hit it with two rounds of an alkaline soap, so that should have revived it. The only move here would be to go the opposite direction and go with something acidic like Carpro Descale, but I don't like your chances.

Secondly, I find that a lot of "non-car people" who are sold a ceramic coating then believe the coating makes the paint indestructible. They therefore never wash it, and when they do, its usually at some sort of touchless car wash and all the harsh chemicals that come with that. Yes, a coating should resist that, but they can't resist neglect.

Thirdly, the coating didn't bond properly. However, IGL installers are generally trained before they are able to use the coatings, so in theory that should rule that out.

I feel the coating was incorrectly applied and I wont bring it back. ATM I'm considering NV-Evo (on sale), trying G-Techniq CS Lite or MOHS combo. Evo has been great for its ability to keep dusty cars that rarely get washed (children ;( ) looking pretty clean and shiny.

Sadly, I think the coating is toast. You could try Descale or a mineral remover, but I think its too late now.

NV EVO gets good reviews, it's actually a hybrid Graphene coating. I would rule out Gtechniq CSL, it's an amazing coating but I feel its longevity is lacking compared to the competition. If it were me, I would be doing Gyeon Mohs EVO, this brings the longevity up without sacrificing slickness, something missing from most coatings.

In this case, I would be giving it a light polish to remove anything that might be lingering (if at all), and/or a wipe down with Gyeon's new Total Remover, then Gyeon Prep, then Mohs.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...8c5f4949&_ss=r


My comment -

I hate this aspect of the detailing industry. People get sold a miracle cure for their paint/car from a detailer or, more likely, a car care "expert" at the dealer. The customer then buys the coating without being properly educated on the coating. The problem I see is people not understanding that a coating is just as fragile as a wax or sealant and needs constant upkeep to see those durability claims. To the average consumer, that defeats the purpose of buying the coating in the first place. Thing is, people don't get told that. So, they then go about their life thinking that when they go to sell the car, the paint will be perfect because the coating will have saved it from neglect. The complete opposite in fact. This then sours the customer from a repeat purchase. Detailers need to own up to this otherwise they will slowly erode their business.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

DFB do you know if Hydr02 can be applied with a foam cannon? I'm wondering what other comparable option there are for Bowden's Happy Ending. Its so convenient for the less important cars (like those of the children) to very quickly get some protection and water beading on the car after a quick wash.

Certainly don't foam Hydr02 or Hydr02 Lite, they are too volatile for that. You can of course foam Hydr02 Foam, think of it like a ceramic version of Reset.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...244bf42f&_ss=r

There is a number of these type of soaps on the market now, think of them as a modern Wash-n-Wax. They don't quite clean as well, nor do they have the same slickness. But, they do provide a short-term boost in gloss and water beading.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...2m-bathe-400ml
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...sh-w3-500ml-1l
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...eramic-shampoo
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-shampoo-750ml
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ply-shine-soap

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Yep!



A few things could be going on here -

Firstly, the coating could be "clogged". However, you have already hit it with two rounds of an alkaline soap, so that should have revived it. The only move here would be to go the opposite direction and go with something acidic like Carpro Descale, but I don't like your chances.

Secondly, I find that a lot of "non-car people" who are sold a ceramic coating then believe the coating makes the paint indestructible. They therefore never wash it, and when they do, its usually at some sort of touchless car wash and all the harsh chemicals that come with that. Yes, a coating should resist that, but they can't resist neglect.

Thirdly, the coating didn't bond properly. However, IGL installers are generally trained before they are able to use the coatings, so in theory that should rule that out.



Sadly, I think the coating is toast. You could try Descale or a mineral remover, but I think its too late now.

NV EVO gets good reviews, it's actually a hybrid Graphene coating. I would rule out Gtechniq CSL, it's an amazing coating but I feel its longevity is lacking compared to the competition. If it were me, I would be doing Gyeon Mohs EVO, this brings the longevity up without sacrificing slickness, something missing from most coatings.

In this case, I would be giving it a light polish to remove anything that might be lingering (if at all), and/or a wipe down with Gyeon's new Total Remover, then Gyeon Prep, then Mohs.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...8c5f4949&_ss=r


My comment -

I hate this aspect of the detailing industry. People get sold a miracle cure for their paint/car from a detailer or, more likely, a car care "expert" at the dealer. The customer then buys the coating without being properly educated on the coating. The problem I see is people not understanding that a coating is just as fragile as a wax or sealant and needs constant upkeep to see those durability claims. To the average consumer, that defeats the purpose of buying the coating in the first place. Thing is, people don't get told that. So, they then go about their life thinking that when they go to sell the car, the paint will be perfect because the coating will have saved it from neglect. The complete opposite in fact. This then sours the customer from a repeat purchase. Detailers need to own up to this otherwise they will slowly erode their business.

This is why I'm still kind of a wax and sealant kind of guy. If I am going to have to maintain the coating anyway, why not just use a sealant or wax? That way the paint looks better, and I can switch products as I see fit without the battle to polish stuff of the car.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

This is why I'm still kind of a wax and sealant kind of guy. If I am going to have to maintain the coating anyway, why not just use a sealant or wax? That way the paint looks better, and I can switch products as I see fit without the battle to polish stuff of the car.

They are Diva's in my opinion. At the moment, I have two vehicles with coatings on them. I do like how easily they clean and how easy they are to dry, but it's like treading on eggshells trying to keep them happy.

I was all set to use Gyeon Mohs EVO on my S650, but I have decided to go back to wax for the slickness, the softer gloss and the flexibility it brings. I'll still coat the wheels, I think that makes a huge difference in dealing with brake dust. Same for the glass. But the paint is going to get either Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or Collinite 845. Actually, 845 topped with NV Jet gets you almost there in terms of hydrophobics.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

They are Diva's in my opinion. At the moment, I have two vehicles with coatings on them. I do like how easily they clean and how easy they are to dry, but it's like treading on eggshells trying to keep them happy.



I was all set to use Gyeon Mohs EVO on my S650, but I have decided to go back to wax for the slickness, the softer gloss and the flexibility it brings. I'll still coat the wheels, I think that makes a huge difference in dealing with brake dust. Same for the glass. But the paint is going to get either Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or Collinite 845. Actually, 845 topped with NV Jet gets you almost there in terms of hydrophobics.

I love Colinite 845. Never tried Jet. Maybe I should give that a go!

Are you going to put PPF on your S650?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

I love Colinite 845. Never tried Jet. Maybe I should give that a go!

Are you going to put PPF on your S650?

Funny you should ask......................

I have ordered the "Black Pack", which includes those brooding black bezel headlights, black badges, black wheels (meh), black wing mirrors and a painted black roof. So that I don't have to be a slave to the black roof, I'm thinking of having PPF applied. Just the roof though.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Funny you should ask......................



I have ordered the "Black Pack", which includes those brooding black bezel headlights, black badges, black wheels (meh), black wing mirrors and a painted black roof. So that I don't have to be a slave to the black roof, I'm thinking of having PPF applied. Just the roof though.



image

I had the same thoughts. Mine also has a black roof. I was thinking of doing the front bumper, bonnet, front fenders, A pillars and roof. I'd also like to put some in front of the rear wheels cause I have heard this can be a high impacts area.

Maybe I should just do the whole car at that point!

[DFB FGXR6]

At work today, I washed both delivery vans. Just quietly, it was hardly “work”!

In terms of products and equipment, I naturally didn’t have full access to my usual arsenal. I’ve had my Kranzle K1152 at work for a few weeks now, using it to clean down paths and shade cloth while customer flow has been quiet. So having that on hand made progress relatively easy. In addition to that, from home I brought a foam cannon, wash bucket, a wheel brush, and tire brush. Towels, a couple of multipurpose TRC Car Wash Towels, a large waffle weave drying towel, and an old Meguiar’s microfiber wash pad.

Chemical wise, I decided this would be a great opportunity to use up some less than stellar products from my collection. For example, Mirch Ceramic Detailer, Mirch Obsidian Tyre Dressing, Meguiar’s Quick Interior Detailer (the gallon format with the strange vinegar-like scent), and a bottle of P&S Radiance (more on that shortly).

For the wheels and tyres, I used Shine Supply Wise Guy, which easily dealt with the usual euro brake dust on this duo, a VW Crafter and Renault Traffic. For the paint, I went in for the kill with Bilt Hamber Touch-less as a pre-wash, THIS is what this product was designed for!

For the contact wash, I used the P&S Radiance Wash and Wax. I was sent this product in error after ordering the “new” version called Inspiration Radiance. I don’t normally use wash-n-wax type soaps, but in this case, I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to use this soap up on two vehicles that don’t warrant extensive effort being put into their appearance. Surprisingly, this soap is very nice to use, cleans well and leaves behind a layer of gloss and water beading that was not there to begin with.



However…………………….

When Inspiration Radiance was unveiled at SEMA late last year, P&S said that this was a newly reformulated version of the earlier Radiance Wash and Wax, updated to deliver a deeper clean and used as a "coating maintenance wash". Having used Inspiration Radiance a bit now, I appreciate that little something it adds to the paint during the wash.

After using the “old” version today, I would say they are the same product! They smell the same, they “feel” the same, the have the same consistency, the same colour, the same gloss and water beading boost. I think the only “reformulation” that went down was the new bottle and new label. Does this matter, probably not, I actually liked using the “old” version today. But I don’t think the “new” version is as new as they would have you believe.

Finishing each detail, I removed the bulk of standing water with our EGO blower (with no stubby nozzle, this one is actually used for leaves), I then went over the paint using the large waffle weave and Mirch Ceramic Detailer. The interior’s got a vacuum, a wipe down with Megs QID, the glass attended to with some glass cleaner and paper towel from the shop. I then dressed the tyres with Mirch Obsidian.

No photos today, I was on the clock and each van is covered in our company logo’s ect. Both came up great though! Two things that stood out, Bilt Hamber Touch-less is amazing for cutting through road grime and mud, and P&S Radiance made both vans look like they had been freshly waxed.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

I had the same thoughts. Mine also has a black roof. I was thinking of doing the front bumper, bonnet, front fenders, A pillars and roof. I'd also like to put some in front of the rear wheels cause I have heard this can be a high impacts area.

Maybe I should just do the whole car at that point!

All I would say is don't do half panels. As the film ages, you will end up with a defined edge as it collects dirt along that edge. When removed, you then have a defined darker and lighter shade of the paint, the unprotected side will end up lighter as it has been exposed to UV. This doesn't always come out with a polish.

So, do full coverage of any given panel, especially on horizontal surfaces.