Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 13

CyberWasp · 09-03-2021, 08:51 PM

That is a nice set up.

As I am always searching around I have noticed this attachment online and if you dig, they have adapters to suit most brands. Not sure if it will fit under a Mustang. Might be good for a 4x4 or normal height car.

What I am more interested in is the replacement Lance with the angle at the end. With the angle it lets you get between the spokes of a wheel to clean behind. Also helps with the inner guards ect.
The standard ones are straight so this I think will be a good upgrade to add to my list.

**anobserver** · 10-03-2021, 12:07 PM

Got a lovely, thoughtful birthday gift from wifey today ...

The TOWEL was the present, in case you were wondering.

**FTE217** · 10-03-2021, 01:01 PM

Is that why there called BIG Green Sucker/s

ok soz forget this lol......
HBDay mate, wipe your mess up haha

**FTE217** · 10-03-2021, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

That is a nice set up.

As I am always searching around I have noticed this attachment online and if you dig, they have adapters to suit most brands. Not sure if it will fit under a Mustang. Might be good for a 4x4 or normal height car.

image

What I am more interested in is the replacement Lance with the angle at the end. With the angle it lets you get between the spokes of a wheel to clean behind. Also helps with the inner guards ect.
The standard ones are straight so this I think will be a good upgrade to add to my list.

image

Sure looks the goods this but happy enough using the hose or gerni in spray mode.

Top_Ghia · 13-03-2021, 07:37 PM

First time poster in this section.
I’ve got a new Mustang landing next week and I’ve been gathering a few detailing bit over the last few weeks.
I bought a Kärcher K7 which I’m very happy with. I also bought the upgraded foam gun and quite a few Bowdens Own products to keep it clean.
I will be detailing this car myself from new as the Ford dealer guys won’t be touching it.
What extra steps should I take on a brand new car? Fingers crossed the paint arrives in a good state.
I do have ceramic coating ready to go on.
But other than washing, decontaminating and clay barring the paint, is there anything else I should be doing?

**Burnout** · 13-03-2021, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

First time poster in this section.
I’ve got a new Mustang landing next week and I’ve been gathering a few detailing bit over the last few weeks.
I bought a Kärcher K7 which I’m very happy with. I also bought the upgraded foam gun and quite a few Bowdens Own products to keep it clean.
I will be detailing this car myself from new as the Ford dealer guys won’t be touching it.
What extra steps should I take on a brand new car? Fingers crossed the paint arrives in a good state.
I do have ceramic coating ready to go on.
But other than washing, decontaminating and clay barring the paint, is there anything else I should be doing?

I'd go the Bowdens Claying Rubber. It is excellent, much better than Clay Bar.

Top_Ghia · 13-03-2021, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burnout

I'd go the Bowdens Claying Rubber. It is excellent, much better than Clay Bar.

Yes I’ll be picking one up this week.

**DFB FGXR6** · 13-03-2021, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

First time poster in this section.
I’ve got a new Mustang landing next week and I’ve been gathering a few detailing bit over the last few weeks.
I bought a Kärcher K7 which I’m very happy with. I also bought the upgraded foam gun and quite a few Bowdens Own products to keep it clean.
I will be detailing this car myself from new as the Ford dealer guys won’t be touching it.
What extra steps should I take on a brand new car? Fingers crossed the paint arrives in a good state.
I do have ceramic coating ready to go on.
But other than washing, decontaminating and clay barring the paint, is there anything else I should be doing?

New car detailing -

1. Wash the car. Seeing as you wont be removing any dealer applied products, you wont need a strip wash soap. Normal car soap will be fine.

2. Apply a iron remover such as IronX or Bowdens Three Way. This step is optional, but if you are planning to properly (not ceramic "infused" sprays) ceramic coat, I would be doing this step. Apply to paint, wheels and glass. Even though it is brand new, there will still be an amount of iron fallout present.

3. Once the iron remover has changed colour, thoroughly rinse the car. In fact, I rinse, re-foam the car and then rinse at this step. I want that stuff gone!

4. Clay bar or towel with a quick detailer as lubricant. I do this while the car is still wet, drying the car in the process.

5. Even though it is new, Polish, polish, polish. Using a clay bar can introduce some paint marring. Polishing at this point will remove them and any other imperfections present. If you are going to the effort of ceramic coating, you don't want to lock in any imperfections.

6. Some will re-wash the car at this stage to remove polishing dust. Otherwise, wipe the car down with an IPA product such as CarPro Eraser or Bowdens Flash Prep. This step prepares for your wax,sealant or coating.

7. Apply your chosen wax, sealant or coating.

8. For wheels, you can protect with specific wheel products or even the stuff you used for the paint. Alternatively, use a water activated coating such CarPro Hydr02 or 303 Touchless Sealant. If your Mustang is coming with the standard Performance Pack wheels, consider this step essential! This will make them easier to clean in the future.

I would also be adding some of these brushes to help with cleaning those wheels -

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...-of-all-wheels

You will need both the small and large versions as the large one wont fit behind the front brake calipers.

9. Dress the tyres and black trims and your done.

10. Take photos and show us your work! This step is mandatory!

Top_Ghia · 13-03-2021, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

New car detailing -

1. Wash the car. Seeing as you wont be removing any dealer applied products, you wont need a strip wash soap. Normal car soap will be fine.

2. Apply a iron remover such as IronX or Bowdens Three Way. This step is optional, but if you are planning to properly (not ceramic "infused" sprays) ceramic coat, I would be doing this step. Apply to paint, wheels and glass. Even though it is brand new, there will still be an amount of iron fallout present.

3. Once the iron remover has changed colour, thoroughly rinse the car. In fact, I rinse, re-foam the car and then rinse at this step. I want that stuff gone!

4. Clay bar or towel with a quick detailer as lubricant. I do this while the car is still wet, drying the car in the process.

5. Even though it is new, Polish, polish, polish. Using a clay bar can introduce some paint marring. Polishing at this point will remove them and any other imperfections present. If you are going to the effort of ceramic coating, you don't want to lock in any imperfections.

6. Some will re-wash the car at this stage to remove polishing dust. Otherwise, wipe the car down with an IPA product such as CarPro Eraser or Bowdens Flash Prep. This step prepares for your wax,sealant or coating.

7. Apply your chosen wax, sealant or coating.

8. For wheels, you can protect with specific wheel products or even the stuff you used for the paint. Alternatively, use a water activated coating such CarPro Hydr02 or 303 Touchless Sealant. If your Mustang is coming with the standard Performance Pack wheels, consider this step essential! This will make them easier to clean in the future.

I would also be adding some of these brushes to help with cleaning those wheels -

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...-of-all-wheels

image

image

image

image

You will need both the small and large versions as the large one wont fit behind the front brake calipers.

9. Dress the tyres and black trims and your done.

10. Take photos and show us your work! This step is mandatory!

Thank you so much. That is pretty close to what I had planned.
But I’m not too confident in polishing it. Should I do it by hand or machine? What product would you recommend? If you recommend machine polishing what’s a reasonable machine? What type of pads? This would be the most concerning part to me.

The has the optional Forged alloy wheels. I was planning to remove these and ceramic coating them too.

**DFB FGXR6** · 13-03-2021, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

Thank you so much. That is pretty close to what I had planned.
But I’m not too confident in polishing it. Should I do it by hand or machine? What product would you recommend? If you recommend machine polishing what’s a reasonable machine? What type of pads? This would be the most concerning part to me.

The has the optional Forged alloy wheels. I was planning to remove these and ceramic coating them too.

Nice choice with the forged wheels, much easier to care for! In terms of ceramic coating them, follow the same process as the paint.

For polishing, obviously doing it by hand is going to be much harder and there will be a limit to how much defect removal you will achieve. For hand polishing, I would choose CarPro Reflect.
https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...nishing-polish

For machines, I seem to recommend going for a kit as these get you started with a machine, pads and polishes. D/A polishers are very forgiving and you would have to be trying very hard to cause damage with them. The Scholl S20 Black included in the kit would be my go to.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ex620-15mm-kit

You will also have to be mindful of choosing polishes that will play well with a ceramic coating. Obviously an all-in-one type product that polishes and protects wont be ideal as you want the paint to be bare when you apply a coating. The polish compounds supplied in those linked kits will be a good starting point.

What Ceramic coating have you chosen?

CyberWasp · 14-03-2021, 02:50 PM

I didn’t do the the seats in my mustang but Carpro and others have a ceramic type coating you could apply to them as well.

**DFB FGXR6** · 14-03-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I didn’t do the the seats in my mustang but Carpro and others have a ceramic type coating you could apply to them as well.

I'm not sure how I feel about leather coatings. I kinda feel compelled to do it, and if I did I would be looking closely at these -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...rotectant-30ml
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...eather-coating
https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...r-shield-50-ml

However, I have read about leather needing to breath, so ceramic coating them will prevent this. Now I know most of the "leather" in most car is not actually leather, but everyone treats it as leather anyway.

For me, the cars I have leather in NEVER see a dirty backside, let alone be subjected to greasy cheeseburger fingers. And I love the leather detailing process!

NV Cleanse and Nourish are designed for the mixture of leather and synthetic materials found in cars. I really like the matte finish these products leave. No glossy, slimy looking leather with these two.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ish-leather-qd

I also really like Bowdens Leather Love, it punches well above it weight and leaves a clean and matte finish also.

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/leather-love

There is some really interesting information on automotive leather here -
https://www.bowdensown.com.au/guides/leather-care-blog

Top_Ghia · 17-03-2021, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Nice choice with the forged wheels, much easier to care for! In terms of ceramic coating them, follow the same process as the paint.

For polishing, obviously doing it by hand is going to be much harder and there will be a limit to how much defect removal you will achieve. For hand polishing, I would choose CarPro Reflect.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...nishing-polish

For machines, I seem to recommend going for a kit as these get you started with a machine, pads and polishes. D/A polishers are very forgiving and you would have to be trying very hard to cause damage with them. The Scholl S20 Black included in the kit would be my go to.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ex620-15mm-kit

You will also have to be mindful of choosing polishes that will play well with a ceramic coating. Obviously an all-in-one type product that polishes and protects wont be ideal as you want the paint to be bare when you apply a coating. The polish compounds supplied in those linked kits will be a good starting point.

What Ceramic coating have you chosen?

I have a Auto Smart branded hybrid ceramic coating.

Top_Ghia · 22-03-2021, 11:38 PM

On Friday morning the truck turned up with my Mustang. I text the boss and told him I was having the rest of the day off.
My car was unusual as I am doing everything myself. I peeled off all the production stickers, plastic wrap and seat covers. I then carried out pre delivery inspection.
Then I pulled off the standard exhaust and fitted a 3 inch Borla ATAK cat back system. Holy busted ear drums is it loud.

I then took it home and washed it a couple of times. I started with a coating of nanolicous foam and rinse. I then carefully hand washed it and rinsed it.
I then vacuumed inside and cleaned the windows which had quite a lot of sticker glue on them.
I then drove it around a bit Saturday afternoon and evening.
On Sunday I pulled the wheels off and really focused on them. They were extremely dirty and covered in salt wash.
I cleaned them inside and out with Bowdens own wheel cleaner and rinsed them off. This did a great job of removing all the dirt and salt.
Next I clay barred them inside and out and dried the and cleaned them down with pre ceramic coating solution.
Then I applied the ceramic coating again to both inside and outside surfaces, trying the cover the whole wheel. Then I buffed off the excess.
The results are stunning. The wheels are spotlessly clean and super slick to the touch. They look like they are wet.
While I had the wheels off I cleaned up the calipers as best I could paying more attention to the front Brembos.

This is my first go at applying any ceramic coating and I’m quite pleased with the result.
Now I need to prep the paint and do the entire car. The paint it pretty good in general but does need a little work. I’m looking into buying a DA buff at the moment.

This is also the first time I’ve detailed a brand new car. It’s quite a lot of work really. I now have more respect for the dealership detailers who generally do a pretty good job considering the tine restraints they are under.
Of course they wouldn’t go to the levels I will on my own car as I spent about 5 hours just doing the wheels and brakes.
So much more to go.
I’ve also spent millions on detailing gear which is mostly Bowdens own. It all seems pretty good. But I’m sure their three way cleaner is the same as their wheel cleaner.
Happy detailing.

**FTE217** · 23-03-2021, 12:36 AM

Pics are a requirement here

**DFB FGXR6** · 23-03-2021, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

On Friday morning the truck turned up with my Mustang. I text the boss and told him I was having the rest of the day off.
My car was unusual as I am doing everything myself. I peeled off all the production stickers, plastic wrap and seat covers. I then carried out pre delivery inspection.
Then I pulled off the standard exhaust and fitted a 3 inch Borla ATAK cat back system. Holy busted ear drums is it loud.

I then took it home and washed it a couple of times. I started with a coating of nanolicous foam and rinse. I then carefully hand washed it and rinsed it.
I then vacuumed inside and cleaned the windows which had quite a lot of sticker glue on them.
I then drove it around a bit Saturday afternoon and evening.
On Sunday I pulled the wheels off and really focused on them. They were extremely dirty and covered in salt wash.
I cleaned them inside and out with Bowdens own wheel cleaner and rinsed them off. This did a great job of removing all the dirt and salt.
Next I clay barred them inside and out and dried the and cleaned them down with pre ceramic coating solution.
Then I applied the ceramic coating again to both inside and outside surfaces, trying the cover the whole wheel. Then I buffed off the excess.
The results are stunning. The wheels are spotlessly clean and super slick to the touch. They look like they are wet.
While I had the wheels off I cleaned up the calipers as best I could paying more attention to the front Brembos.

This is my first go at applying any ceramic coating and I’m quite pleased with the result.
Now I need to prep the paint and do the entire car. The paint it pretty good in general but does need a little work. I’m looking into buying a DA buff at the moment.

This is also the first time I’ve detailed a brand new car. It’s quite a lot of work really. I now have more respect for the dealership detailers who generally do a pretty good job considering the tine restraints they are under.
Of course they wouldn’t go to the levels I will on my own car as I spent about 5 hours just doing the wheels and brakes.
So much more to go.
I’ve also spent millions on detailing gear which is mostly Bowdens own. It all seems pretty good. But I’m sure their three way cleaner is the same as their wheel cleaner.
Happy detailing.

Love it!

I would love to be able to do that one day, take delivery of the car as is and "unwrap" it myself.

You also did it the right way, doing the wheels straight away. Doing it that way means not having to be as aggressive in de-contaminating them in readiness for ceramic coating.

That then allows you to tackle the paint when you are ready, and picking up a DA polisher will be a good move.

And as mentioned, where are the pics?

Top_Ghia · 23-03-2021, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Love it!

I would love to be able to do that one day, take delivery of the car as is and "unwrap" it myself.

You also did it the right way, doing the wheels straight away. Doing it that way means not having to be as aggressive in de-contaminating them in readiness for ceramic coating.

That then allows you to tackle the paint when you are ready, and picking up a DA polisher will be a good move.

And as mentioned, where are the pics?

What is the real world differences in the 2 DA polishers you referenced?
I’m not a professional and won’t use it that much. But I don’t mind spending money on good gear.
Is a bigger more powerful unit much of a benefit?
This car doesn’t need a lot of work but I also want to polish my 2015 Territory which is in reasonable shape but has some swirl to it.
I’m a complete noob to all this.

**DFB FGXR6** · 23-03-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

What is the real world differences in the 2 DA polishers you referenced?
I’m not a professional and won’t use it that much. But I don’t mind spending money on good gear.
Is a bigger more powerful unit much of a benefit?
This car doesn’t need a lot of work but I also want to polish my 2015 Territory which is in reasonable shape but has some swirl to it.
I’m a complete noob to all this.

I guess I included the smaller machine as it might be less intimidating for a beginner.

If it was me, I would get the larger one, in kit form as linked. These machines are pretty easy to use.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ex620-15mm-kit

If you were happy to spend more on the best, I would go with the Rupes LHR15 MKIII with a selection of pads and polishes from the linked kit above. The Rupes would be the sort of thing you would have for a long time.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...bital-polisher

Top_Ghia · 23-03-2021, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I guess I included the smaller machine as it might be less intimidating for a beginner.

If it was me, I would get the larger one, in kit form as linked. These machines are pretty easy to use.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ex620-15mm-kit

If you were happy to spend more on the best, I would go with the Rupes LHR15 MKIII with a selection of pads and polishes from the linked kit above. The Rupes would be the sort of thing you would have for a long time.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...bital-polisher

I think that Rupes is a step too far for what I want.

Top_Ghia · 24-03-2021, 09:46 AM

15mm polisher kit is on the way.
Can you ever get out of this rabbit hole? I’ve spent a small fortune on bloody Microfibre cloths and Bowdens own products.

It will be good to give my Territory some love too.

prydey · 24-03-2021, 10:07 AM

Hello all, It would be nice if I had a life that allowed me to spend so much time looking after cars, but alas, I do not. These days the territory is lucky to get washed once a month... I know, that's sacrilege in a thread like this.

I'll just live the experience through the members on here. Reading through the whole thread has been very enjoyable and lots of enviable setups.

Some may be aware that my wife is about to take delivery of a new Escape, so I need to lift my game a little.

I always keep my cars looking tidy, but I wouldn't call it detailing. Just the usual 2 bucket wash and dry, then coat the tyres. I use autoglym and big green sucker and the cars always come up looking presentable however i do pour a goodly amount of the autoglym in the bucket to get it foaming good. It doesn't tend to foam much if you go by the directions.

Anyway, I don't want to be long winded, but just looking to see if there was any standout products mentioned in here that are easily and readily available, and it would appear that Bowdens Own is that product.

What I was oblivious to is the products that you spray on to the big green sucker before drying. I might look in to adding things like Boss Gloss to my collection. Is it really as simple as spraying it on the towel and then drying as per normal, or does the bulk of the water (my cars always bead even though I don't look after them like most on here) need to be removed first?

Thanks for the great read through 13 pages. Keep up the good work guys. One day when life slows down I might find the time to spend more time in my garage.

So yes, just some tips on the drying process with the added products would be good.

fiestaz · 24-03-2021, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Hello all, It would be nice if I had a life that allowed me to spend so much time looking after cars, but alas, I do not. These days the territory is lucky to get washed once a month... I know, that's sacrilege in a thread like this.

I'll just live the experience through the members on here. Reading through the whole thread has been very enjoyable and lots of enviable setups.

Some may be aware that my wife is about to take delivery of a new Escape, so I need to lift my game a little.

I always keep my cars looking tidy, but I wouldn't call it detailing. Just the usual 2 bucket wash and dry, then coat the tyres. I use autoglym and big green sucker and the cars always come up looking presentable however i do pour a goodly amount of the autoglym in the bucket to get it foaming good. It doesn't tend to foam much if you go by the directions.

Anyway, I don't want to be long winded, but just looking to see if there was any standout products mentioned in here that are easily and readily available, and it would appear that Bowdens Own is that product.

What I was oblivious to is the products that you spray on to the big green sucker before drying. I might look in to adding things like Boss Gloss to my collection. Is it really as simple as spraying it on the towel and then drying as per normal, or does the bulk of the water (my cars always bead even though I don't look after them like most on here) need to be removed first?

Thanks for the great read through 13 pages. Keep up the good work guys. One day when life slows down I might find the time to spend more time in my garage.

So yes, just some tips on the drying process with the added products would be good.

As you said it, Boss gloss is a simple case of spraying onto the big green sucker and going for it. With a few more sprays as you get around the car. Simple as that.
Most of Bowdens range is as simple as wipe on, wipe off. If you wanted to go the extra step of doing that, Flash Prep, followed by Bead Machine for protection and more beads. Only needs doing once every 6 months.

I found Autoglym wash to be pretty average. It really does not like to sud up. Try one of the washes from Bowdens, nanolicious feels super soft and suds up really well

**FTE217** · 24-03-2021, 12:04 PM

prydey, no you need the Bowden Afterglow, you spray that on the green sucka and leaves a nice gloss look coating. There are other better products bt I don't think your inclined to go that way.
Others say otherwise but I've always gone MEH re Autoglyn, I get no satisfaction from the product, if you like easy purchase product the Megs Ultima Wash Wax suds up well or the Soft Wash Gel.
Life slowing down ? yer right thats the old days train of thought, my 3 kids are looking after themsleves pretty much and there is no slow down

Your a long time dead - I do my car/s TLC in the evening instead of sitting on my a rse watching tv.

prydey · 24-03-2021, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FTE217

Your a long time dead - I do my car/s TLC in the evening instead of sitting on my a rse watching tv.

shift work. permanent arvo's so i don't get evenings. I cycle to and from work which is near enough to an hour each way (42km round trip) so that eats in to the day as well.

Doesn't really matter on the specifics though. Everyone has their life to live the way they choose.

Anyway, enough about the boring stuff.

I'll check out some products next time I'm at supercheap or whenever repco do a discount day for nrma members.

I used to use Megs gold class but swichted to autoglym after noticing a work colleagues car always looked shiny. Like I mentioned though, if I don't use a generous amount, it doesn't quite work the same. Time to switch again. I still use megs tyre gel.

fiestaz · 24-03-2021, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FTE217

prydey, no you need the Bowden Afterglow, you spray that on the green sucka and leaves a nice gloss look coating. There are other better products bt I don't think your inclined to go that way.
Others say otherwise but I've always gone MEH re Autoglyn, I get no satisfaction from the product, if you like easy purchase product the Megs Ultima Wash Wax suds up well or the Soft Wash Gel.
Life slowing down ? yer right thats the old days train of thought, my 3 kids are looking after themsleves pretty much and there is no slow down

Your a long time dead - I do my car/s TLC in the evening instead of sitting on my a rse watching tv.

That is incorrect. Afterglow is no good for the big green sucker. It ruins the cloth. Afterglow uses the big softies.

**FTE217** · 24-03-2021, 05:08 PM

yep your right the big softies are the onjes, I just type at times without thinking this goes with that

Hey I'm multi tasking when online whilst being flat out at work.

**DFB FGXR6** · 24-03-2021, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Hello all, It would be nice if I had a life that allowed me to spend so much time looking after cars, but alas, I do not. These days the territory is lucky to get washed once a month... I know, that's sacrilege in a thread like this.

I'll just live the experience through the members on here. Reading through the whole thread has been very enjoyable and lots of enviable setups.

Some may be aware that my wife is about to take delivery of a new Escape, so I need to lift my game a little.

I always keep my cars looking tidy, but I wouldn't call it detailing. Just the usual 2 bucket wash and dry, then coat the tyres. I use autoglym and big green sucker and the cars always come up looking presentable however i do pour a goodly amount of the autoglym in the bucket to get it foaming good. It doesn't tend to foam much if you go by the directions.

Anyway, I don't want to be long winded, but just looking to see if there was any standout products mentioned in here that are easily and readily available, and it would appear that Bowdens Own is that product.

What I was oblivious to is the products that you spray on to the big green sucker before drying. I might look in to adding things like Boss Gloss to my collection. Is it really as simple as spraying it on the towel and then drying as per normal, or does the bulk of the water (my cars always bead even though I don't look after them like most on here) need to be removed first?

Thanks for the great read through 13 pages. Keep up the good work guys. One day when life slows down I might find the time to spend more time in my garage.

So yes, just some tips on the drying process with the added products would be good.

Considering that you will be going with a Ceramic coating, washing and drying with a drying aid should be all that you would ever need to do. People often like to top Ceramic coatings, and while you certainly can, it is not needed save for perhaps a yearly topper (this varies from brand to brand so make sure you ask about it when you pick the car up).

Above, you mentioned Meg's Gold Class, I would say that is streets ahead of Autoglym's soap. I used it for years and I can say that it is one of the best readily available car wash soaps on the market. I also used Bowdens Snow Job regularly as bucket wash soap, it foams up beautifully in a bucket and can also be used to clean the wheels (in a separate bucket and wash mitt please).

A good soap, glass cleaner, 303 Aerospace to keep the interior plastic protected, a drying aid and tire dressing will keep the Escape looking great for years. As mentioned, Boss Gloss would be a great choice for a drying aid, however most "Quick Detailers" can be used for this task.

Hope that helps.

**DFB FGXR6** · 24-03-2021, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

15mm polisher kit is on the way.
Can you ever get out of this rabbit hole? I’ve spent a small fortune on bloody Microfibre cloths and Bowdens own products.

It will be good to give my Territory some love too.

Mate, the rabbit hole only gets deeper!

Oh, and nicely chosen regarding the DA.

**DFB FGXR6** · 24-03-2021, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fiestaz

I found Autoglym wash to be pretty average. It really does not like to sud up. Try one of the washes from Bowdens, nanolicious feels super soft and suds up really well

When I was getting ready for my XR6 to built in 2008, I did the usual buy up of new detailing gear, Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo was one of those products.

https://www.autoglym.com.au/products...oo-conditioner

From the very first use, I hated it. No suds and very little in the way of slickness/lubrication. Of all the many, many detailing products I have used since then, this soap would have to be one of THE worst. Considering how much you need to use each wash to get at least something usable, it's poor value too.

I suspect their new soaps would be better, Polar Wash for example, but I have am a bit gun shy on their soaps now.

prydey · 24-03-2021, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Considering that you will be going with a Ceramic coating, washing and drying with a drying aid should be all that you would ever need to do. People often like to top Ceramic coatings, and while you certainly can, it is not needed save for perhaps a yearly topper (this varies from brand to brand so make sure you ask about it when you pick the car up).

Above, you mentioned Meg's Gold Class, I would say that is streets ahead of Autoglym's soap. I used it for years and I can say that it is one of the best readily available car wash soaps on the market. I also used Bowdens Snow Job regularly as bucket wash soap, it foams up beautifully in a bucket and can also be used to clean the wheels (in a separate bucket and wash mitt please).

image

A good soap, glass cleaner, 303 Aerospace to keep the interior plastic protected, a drying aid and tire dressing will keep the Escape looking great for years. As mentioned, Boss Gloss would be a great choice for a drying aid, however most "Quick Detailers" can be used for this task.

Hope that helps.

Thanks very much.

I was banking on the escape being fairly low maintenance so most of my time would still be directed towards the Territory. I assume given its 9 years old the boss gloss type products would still work ok? The paint still looks pretty good after a wash and water beads every time it gets wet. Just saying it doesn't look like it's been neglected at all. It's a big car and not sure I'll ever find the time to give it the full treatment so for now I'll just take a couple of little steps...

I like reading about it but don't have the patience to spend all day, or even half a day cleaning a car