FORD technical service bulletin : ICC touch screen display - Page 13

JasonACT · 29-03-2020, 05:58 PM

I now have a fully operational DEATH STAR!

Oh wait, it's a fully operational SD card slot using some MX31 SD source code for a driver, that I've been hacking away at for the past 10 days.

The Sat-Nav software runs off it pretty nicely. Faster than the USB stick mod.

roboy07 · 29-03-2020, 07:06 PM

[QUOTE=JasonACT;6419049]I now have a fully operational DEATH STAR!

What does that all mean??? any photos to show??? I hoping all is well with you and your family and job life etc. but if you happen to have more time (as i will) i am really wanting to upgrade my maps, but i need a video to see how to do it all. Im game enough to do it, but with just photos im not. Any chance at all?? Only if you have time

JasonACT · 29-03-2020, 07:16 PM

The photos were quite a few pages back, I soldered in a SD card holder, but it did nothing. The idea is, mid-level units can be expanded now to have new software on permanent media. Any unit with a really bad flash chip can be repaired by moving most (if not all) of the packages onto stable media.

There's a thing called "OpenAuto" I want to see what I can do with, having a working SD card slot is a big step in that direction.. The USB on this device is locked down and slow - but if I can get some sort of WiFi thing happening through the new SD slot, then maybe it will work.

Unfortunately, time is going to be spent in that area.. But maybe someone else will pick up the video doco thing?

Citroënbender · 29-03-2020, 10:31 PM

This remains my most enjoyed thread on the site. It’s like you’ve taught yourself all the instruments in an orchestra, written a great symphony and recorded it.

JasonACT · 29-03-2020, 11:08 PM

Tubular. Thanks man.

roboy07 · 05-04-2020, 07:43 AM

Is the FGX unit the same as the Ford territory titanium SZ model? I might be able to pick one up second hand for around ~$300. When I say the same, I mean, same look, satnav etc? I am wanting to do the same as you JASONACT, but want to test it on a backup unit first before I do anything with my main one

raceteam · 05-04-2020, 07:46 AM

NO. FG-X uses sync 2. SZ (series 1) and FG II are the same.

roboy07 · 05-04-2020, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raceteam

NO. FG-X uses sync 2. SZ (series 1) and FG II are the same.

Thanks for the quick reply. That's a shame. Has anyone tried to do a full swap from a non sync unit to a sync 2/3 unit?

raceteam · 05-04-2020, 07:59 AM

roboy07, suggest you use the search function, your questions are already answered in existing threads, rather than adding to this one. https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11482241

JasonACT · 09-04-2020, 12:38 AM

It's funny, the other thread I had referenced a while back (on a different forum) turned solely to sat-nat cheats and died. If you're not confident, you may break your unit, and I don't want to be part of that. Sorry. I would say though, I had heard of Mike Oldfield's story when I was a teen... a long time ago... Tubular, though it might have been a lost story here.

The stereo and mono SWSA libraries here though do switch off the SD card device's clock (oh yeah, audio should mess with other devices ??? - nice one SWSA!!! You idiots). Some sort of after thought, I guess. Save power - etc. Easiest way, sort of thing.

So after hacking those two libraries, I can boot all the factory packages off SD - but it doesn't survive a sleep-wake cycle. The test for SD card-ready doesn't consider the time in a sleep (a SWSA special condition) which I'm still working on... The QNX provided libs don't seem to have a way to inform them more time has passed (clocks stop while sleeping) so they don't ask if the SD card is still present (which happens after non-access in relatively short periods normally). If I can get that working after a sleep-wake cycle then I think the SD card may be a reliable peripheral - which it isn't at the moment.

Working on it...

JasonACT · 09-04-2020, 02:41 PM

Ok, I've hacked the program "pin_iomuxer" which I noticed being signalled to go to sleep at the same time my SD card stops working. Turns out that program switches all the chips devices/pins into low power mode and back when sleeping/waking. So I may now be wasting half a mA more? I don't care though, it's working properly now.

The Flash memory device is also not altered (there's an init function, but no sleep function for that one) so I think I'm in good company.

JasonACT · 09-04-2020, 08:52 PM

Numbers for those who like 'em: (screen is off in wake mode in both tests as it uses more power than my meter can read accurately)...

My FDM with a GPS add-on and USB hub and stick - 278mA wake, 6.7mA sleep.
The Terry FDM+GPS mod, but missing the BT chip - 264mA wake, 10.4mA sleep.

So I've increased the sleep power consumption by 50% by not powering down the SD components. Say my battery normally dies in 12 months for not driving the car - it would now go at ~8 months. Meh.

JasonACT · 09-04-2020, 11:47 PM

Now that I can load the factory packages from an SD card, I went and did it to my original unit (since I don't have to delete anything - just "mv" move the old factory folder (to factory_o) and create a symbolic link to a new one on the SD card). These are the extra symbolic links required when upgrading an old firmware (which my unit has) to the latest:

cd /bin
ln -s /packages/factory/graphics/root/bin/exhibit exhibit
ln -s /packages/factory/applications/root/bin/fpv_gauges fpv_gauges
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/bin/hmiEvent hmiEvent
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/bin/seperate seperate

(I'm not even running the fpv_gauges program - my car doesn't have the hardware it needs - and my Gauges.ino.elf program does everything it does with my own hardware - but it doesn't hurt to put in the link.)

cd /lib
ln -s /packages/factory/media_player/root/lib/libandroid.so libandroid.so

(not sure if I mentioned these navi files before? but I noticed them again on this upgrade)
cd /etc
mkdir navi
cd navi
ln -s /packages/factory/navi/root/etc/navi/synctool_check_and_exec.sh synctool_check_and_exec.sh
ln -s /packages/factory/navi/root/etc/navi/post_synctool_usb_cleanup.sh post_synctool_usb_cleanup.sh
ln -s /packages/factory/navi/root/etc/navi/post_synctool_nand_cleanup.sh post_synctool_nand_cleanup.sh

cd /usr/bin
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/usr/bin/dynamic_update_symlink.sh dynamic_update_symlink.sh
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/usr/bin/dynamic_update_process.sh dynamic_update_process.sh
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/usr/bin/dynamic_update_identify.sh dynamic_update_identify.sh
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/usr/bin/dynamic_update_hmi.sh dynamic_update_hmi.sh

cd /packages/system/trailer
ln -s /packages/factory/swsa_binaries_and_libraries/root/usr/bin/dynamic_update_hmi.sh dynamic_update_hmi.sh

--ensure the whole new /packages/persist/bluetooth folder is copied over too (not sure if it gets created, I just copied mine).

(As I had previously said, in a post a page back, a couple of the older version programs were kept because running the new ones with the old boot files/smaller-board comms indicated there were some issues.)

Seems to work pretty well.

It does "upgrade" the bluetooth firmware on the unit too - a big splash message shows up with % done... Falcon profile... I'm certain from reading the forums that the bluetooth was enhanced for new devices - but you only get it from the dealers when you complained that your phone didn't work.

JasonACT · 06-05-2020, 08:54 PM

I have not seen OpenAuto yet (I don't have a compatible Android phone) but this is CrankShaft, a free interface that loads OpenAuto when a phone is connected to a Raspberry Pi. Here, I've managed to put the device into X11 graphics mode, which required a workaround/download, and loaded a VNC server on my Raspberry Pi. I'm connected through WiFi and am displaying a remote desktop of the interface:

The plan is, to hide the Raspberry Pi in the centre console storage, without a screen. So I've configured it for 800x480 (oh, isn't that exactly what the FG2 ICC's resolution is?) so it should always power up in that mode. The audio is also set for the 3.5mm audio jack (not HDMI audio) so that should plug straight into the console's aux input port which happens to be in the same storage compartment on FG2s:

This is the powered up Pi unit:

This is an ESP32 "Internet of Things" (IoT) hobby board. It has two serial ports, one I intend to interface with the existing ICC-FDIM-GPS module, the other to serial port 5 of the QNX motherboard (the old GPS port). Apparently that's good for 1.875Mb/s according to the doco, which is like a slow network. The hobby board also has WiFi (IoT!) so I should be able to get it to connect to a VNC remote desktop server (I wonder where this is going?)...

I've worked out how to put the FDIM screen into diags mode, which gives you full access to graphics and touch events without worrying about the existing car's human-machine-interface (HMI) - the themes of the car. I can add a new "phone" button on that old interface to start up a new one which remotes into the Pi. Not sure how (the phone's) Sat-Nav will go though, that's going to be the most intensive graphics-update software I can think of, and I'll only be using a slow connection, but maybe I can tune it for 16bit graphics and get it acceptable?

I looked at compiling the OpenAuto app directly for QNX, but even if I ignore the hurdles of effort, the final binaries already consume more memory than is available on a non-Sat-Nav FDIM. It's just not going to work that way.

I'm also probably going to drop this project if I hit any other hurdle!

OpenAuto is no longer "Open" even though it's now called "OpenAuto pro" - it also requires a Pi4. CrankShaft is no longer being maintained. So if it doesn't all "just work" then that's it!

FDIM->Ser5->WiFi~~~~~>Pi->CrankShaft->OpenAuto
......................^->GPS

Citroënbender · 06-05-2020, 08:58 PM

You’re tenacious. I’m enjoying this path you’re exploring.

wesky · 07-05-2020, 03:56 PM

A big "thank you" and shout-out to @FADI75; and ASL in Lynbrook, Vic.

Despite spending $143 at a Ford Dealer to have them try and revive my dead ICC, ASL came to the party and brought it back to life in one very quick and easy transaction at their HQ.

Bonus mention - BT now works! [Huawei phone]

Bonus tip: don't bother going to a Ford Dealer if your ICC screen is dead. It's a cost you don't need. Save it for the replacement you do need. The quote Ford gave me to replace the ICC - $1800-1900.

@JasonACT; man this stuff is very intriguing. I just wish I was intelligent enough to; 1) understand it & 2) get it in my MKII XR6. Thanks for the great read.

JasonACT · 07-05-2020, 06:00 PM

You're welcome for the read.

And I hope the next time your car needs the battery replaced, in a few years, your ASL brought back to life unit hasn't suffered the same fate again, that all these units are tragically heading towards.

(Someone on ebay was selling an FG2 ICC with a "Repaired by ASL" sticker on it, saying it's been fixed, so is now immune to the black screen problem, but I'm not sure why they thought that would be the case. We don't know what they do to them, if anything other than reloading the firmware.)

MustangNicko · 08-05-2020, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wesky

A big "thank you" and shout-out to @FADI75; and ASL in Lynbrook, Vic.

Despite spending $143 at a Ford Dealer to have them try and revive my dead ICC, ASL came to the party and brought it back to life in one very quick and easy transaction at their HQ.

Bonus mention - BT now works! [Huawei phone]

Bonus tip: don't bother going to a Ford Dealer if your ICC screen is dead. It's a cost you don't need. Save it for the replacement you do need. The quote Ford gave me to replace the ICC - $1800-1900.

@JasonACT; man this stuff is very intriguing. I just wish I was intelligent enough to; 1) understand it & 2) get it in my MKII XR6. Thanks for the great read.

I was lucky. Ford updated mine for free and it worked

JasonACT · 27-05-2020, 11:46 PM

So, I went in a slightly different direction, using a different ESP WiFi device (ESP8266-01 instead of an ESP32 - so photos of that device were removed...)

Yep, remote desktop software works on these FG MKII touch screens.

I've got an invisible button in the top-right corner that connects and disconnects remote desktop software from a computer with WiFi running in the car now!

Sad news, the QNX 6.4.1 operating system has "quirks". You can follow the rules set out in the manuals, but things don't always work as they should (or are described). The important thing I've worked around here is the wait for data routines. I.E. You ask to wait, and call a want-to-wait routine, and expect to wake - except if the wake "signal" (a Unix thing) happens between asking to wait but before you call the final "I'm now waiting" routine... It never wakes. It's like a "race condition" in computer terms, but I'd prefer a race condition being part of my daily drive!

Sadly, the SD card driver I wrote (and posted above, and a newer one supplied to someone who contacted me offline) also suffers from this problem. It's taken me a couple of months to track down some odd things that happen (it looks random, one happened in a week, one happened 29 days later)... but I've re-written a whole lot of these wait routines about 2-3 weeks ago, now knowing the issue, and it finally seems totally solid now (extra debug output on every sleep/wake event helped).

I think all of this can now work! (It's not fast, but even navigation from a remote computer [a raspberry pi!] should work OK.)

These are the things I've accomplished - and a small list of what I have left "to do" --->

Add white LED reverse lights so reversing at night is easier
Add white LED rear number plate lights (why doesn't anyone sit on my..)
Add white LED fog lights + a DRL mod (turns off with headlights on)
Add a MACE air intake with pod filter
Basic tune for 15% more kW and 20% more torque
Installed indicator side mirrors with colour coded scalps
Swap to a high-end audio/radio unit
Add a premium Sub + Amp (Sub in factory pos, Amp under passenger seat)
Attenuate pre-amp speaker signals to eliminate 80% of the FG's hiss
Swap to a Sat-Nav ICC/FDIM (using a 3rd party Sat-Nav aerial, damn you wrecker!)
Swap over to silver ICC buttons on my piano black ICC
Swap over to silver steering wheel buttons
Create a paddle shifter mod (hidden + explicit paddle mods)
Hacking into the ICC operating system for root access
Hacking the media player (plays ~10,000 songs in random [x10 more than std])
Cracking the Sat-Nav software (for addding 2019+ maps)
Create custom ICC gauges + gforce meter (always displayed)
Enable Ford/FPV gauges (+touch control for Trans/Batt level switch)
Add an SD card slot for the ICC to expand storage space
Upgrading my old spare mid-level ICC/FDIM to high-end / Sat-Nav (connect a ublox chip)
Add a blue-stitched leather centre console lid
Add a blue-stitched leather gear shifter cover
Add a blue-stitched leather handbrake cover
Add a blue-stitched leather handbrake handle
Swapping blue-stitched leather passenger seat base to renew my driver's seat
Replaced my worn factory original blue-stitched XR drivers mat for a new one
Add a dash mat (specifically for the FG2's larger dash shape)
Replaced my scratched glovebox lid with a new one (now need a new tyre pressure sticker)
Swap the Ford transmission heat exchanger with a PWR model
Decoded/documented the memory mirror comms data wire for future mods
Buy and install the boot lid liner.

Create a VNC client for the FG2 ICC/FDIM + add WiFi networking
Install my Raspberry Pi 3B (with CrankShaft) with a VNC server running
TODO: Buy an Android phone that is compatible with Android Auto! (I'm a bit old school!)

TODO: Remove the exhaust restrictor ring, I'm still annoyed the mechanic wouldn't do it!
TODO: Add driver's side servo for dual zone climate (Forscan'ing my HIM)
TODO: Swap in my memory mirrors with 4 or so neat memory buttons
TODO: Buy a good XR6 limited edition 19" "grey" full size spare wheel
TODO: Buy the full-size spare wheel mounting screw/mechanism
TODO: Buy & install the full-size spare wheel rubber boot mat

So few things, I think I'll enjoy my break while I'm on leave! Thanks guys!

JasonACT · 02-06-2020, 11:51 PM

What's a you.. tube..?

https://youtu.be/6BYEmmAuPws

I'm just having fun screwing around with this now

JasonACT · 07-06-2020, 04:17 PM

Someone has asked in a PM how I get the ICC to power up and stay that way on the bench.

See attached Arduino .ino sketch (you need to rename it from .txt to .ino).

I load this into an Arduino Nano that has a CAN bus device (I've posted pictures before) attached. You need to download one of the Arduino CAN bus libraries for this to compile.

Edit: Fixing the you tube link from the previous post:

Meesen0743 · 07-06-2020, 08:58 PM

Firstly thank you to JasonACT for all his contribution to this thread, without his help and r&d I wouldn't be tinkering away on this project.

I found the following 2 frames wake the screen for 60 seconds before going into Power Saving Mode and set the screen brightness.

0x2F2, 8, 00x0 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x12 0x00 0x00 0x00
5th Byte defines Selected source
(0x00 Screen off, 0x11 CD, 0x12 CP/MP3, 0x18 Blank main screen, 0x19 AUX)

&

0x128, 8, 0x00 0x10 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
2nd Byte defines screen brightness (00 > 19)

JasonACT · 10-06-2020, 09:33 PM

I've added, via the new WiFi module, a server TCP/IP port that I can remotely connect to - which provides access to a remote terminal/shell/command-line (different computer-people, different names, same thing). Now I can go out to my car, put the key in and turn to accessories, turn off - lock the car... And... Have 10 minutes remote (WiFi) access to the car's computer from my PC in the house.

I no longer have to pull out the tissue holder to access the Debug serial port wires I've installed, and sit in the car to do maintenance to the ICC/FDIM screen computer.

Here's a picture of a Windows 10 Stick PC.. My Raspberry Pi is in the background.

The Stick PC is connected to the ESP8266-01 chip (the WiFi device I've added to the FDIM screen) which is now running in Access-Point mode, the screen here is showing a Remote-Desktop of the Stick PC, and the Stick PC is running a terminal program that's logged into the FDIM screen:

So, it's true: pop will eat itself.

I can also run the on-screen keyboard, which comes with Windows. That will allow me to control the terminal via the ICC/FDIM touch screen. And if this doesn't hurt your head - you're doing better than me!

Gobes32 · 11-06-2020, 12:14 AM

Amazing work Jason, a lot of it goes over my head but from what I can see you guys have made amazing progress.

For those of us that fear losing our screens and having to pay lots of money to have them repaired, is the trick to just never let the icc be disconnected from power? And if you do have to change a battery, get the professionals to do it with those units that mean the car has no loss of power during fitting?

cm29579 · 23-06-2020, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiji

The trick is to replace the unit with a titanium navigation unit. They have a better power supply

Ive changed mine from mid spec to titanium / g6E

All good now. Even disconnected battery and it still alive. Plus I have navigation now

Bought a new battery for my G6E and this thread has got me questioning whether I want to use it! What you said above sounds correct (but is it fact?), Ive jumped my older battery multiple times without issue. The current one was only put in last year but struggles after 3-4 days not being driven and will give me airbag fault codes after barely starting sometimes. Under powered 480cca.

Stereo never been an issue aside from once going black due to a snapped usb stick, pulled the fuse and put back and all was good. The GPS has a mind of its own, came back to life with the fuse trick.

hellrc5 · 24-06-2020, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cm29579

Bought a new battery for my G6E and this thread has got me questioning whether I want to use it! What you said above sounds correct (but is it fact?), Ive jumped my older battery multiple times without issue. The current one was only put in last year but struggles after 3-4 days not being driven and will give me airbag fault codes after barely starting sometimes. Under powered 480cca.

Stereo never been an issue aside from once going black due to a snapped usb stick, pulled the fuse and put back and all was good. The GPS has a mind of its own, came back to life with the fuse trick.

i'd change that battery before it causes more expensive problems but also may be a good idea to look for battery drain and checking the alternator if it is eating the batteries, tho an undersized battery gets the hammering every day, struggling to start the car every time so premature death is not entirely surprising

Sent from my SM-N935F using Tapatalk

Meesen0743 · 28-06-2020, 11:32 AM

JasonACT talked about battery replacement in an earlier post on this thread.

If memory serves me correct he suggested that regularly power cycling the FDIM would help the system reboot and repair bad blocks before the system gets overloaded and doesn't have the resources to attempt repairs.

**russellw** · 08-07-2020, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonACT

You're welcome for the read.

And I hope the next time your car needs the battery replaced, in a few years, your ASL brought back to life unit hasn't suffered the same fate again, that all these units are tragically heading towards.

(Someone on ebay was selling an FG2 ICC with a "Repaired by ASL" sticker on it, saying it's been fixed, so is now immune to the black screen problem, but I'm not sure why they thought that would be the case. We don't know what they do to them, if anything other than reloading the firmware.)

Just adding my comment here. 2014 FGII EcoLPi which killed the original ICC in December 2017 after a weak battery caused whatever it is that corrupts to become corrupted.

It was replaced by my dealer with the ASL unit I supplied to them.

After the recent lockdown and not using the car much, I started it a couple of weeks back and got the Airbag warning and black screen again. After taking a long drive to recharge the battery, at next restart the screen came back to normal but the start after that it froze on the logo display and the one after that it went black and has stayed that way since.

This suggests to me that ASL don't modify them in any way to protect them but rather just reload the firmware.

I'll also add that battery changes are best done without powering down the vehicle which was how Beaurepaires changed mine back then.

FPV414 · 09-07-2020, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiji

The trick is to replace the unit with a titanium navigation unit. They have a better power supply

Ive changed mine from mid spec to titanium / g6E

All good now. Even disconnected battery and it still alive. Plus I have navigation now

So if I'm reading this right, XR/base/G6 low series ICC units with touch screen are more prone to fail than high spec ones with Navigation etc - G6E/TItanium with Nav?

I have had this happen in about 4 cars and it is just such a bad time. I bought a daily driver ute recently and the air con vents were munted. I pulled the ICC apart to replace the vents knowing I could brick the screen, luckily it powered up OK after an agonising 5 second wait after turning the key.

Also confirming no one has actually worked out how to fix a bricked screen?

gkhn · 21-08-2020, 12:12 AM

Hi JasonACT... I am speechless. Thank you for sharing all your pain and gains with us!
Does this only apply to MK2 screens?
I never had any issue with my mono screen(MK1) after disconnecting the battery.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonACT

These devices (a small computer) rarely ever re-boot.. A lot of the software on them is loaded into RAM (which is very stable) where it runs for years. That is, until you spike the power (jump-start) or disconnect/reconnect the battery. The Flash memory chip itself (where all the files are loaded from, at boot time) has a 10 year "estimated life" but it goes bad in the heat much quicker. Bad files do get corrected by special software and extra bits on the chips, but if they get too bad, even that fails and the units can fail to boot properly - which means "blank screen" / "lines down the screen" / "stuck on the boot splash screen". Depends on which files and how far into the boot cycle it gets before it stops.

Image files are often reloaded as they are not kept in RAM all the time - so sometimes you can see corruptions in images on these screens without rebooting.