Au Boot Strut Mount Rusted - Page 2

InfernoSR · 20-12-2011, 07:10 PM

thanks for the info guys, i have 2 au's to fix cause of this issue... i'll have to order in the replacement sections.

hortiboi · 12-09-2012, 08:58 AM

Hey guys, sorry to bring this thread to life. I have a question about the strut mount. Pre-rusting through, is it a bolt with a thread screwing into the panel or is the ball the strut moves on part of that whole section? Mine has rusted to the point of not being able to tell if it is removable before it rusts out the body. Thanks in advance.

FG Brake · 12-09-2012, 12:31 PM

I got 2nd hand struts from the Wreckers, but make sure you get the ball socket as these generally rust out first. And Ford in their wisdom dont stock em.
I just welded a nut on each side an inch away and was back in business.
Marvellous but the boots I saw at the wreckers didnt have any rust at all!!

hortiboi · 12-09-2012, 06:39 PM

Mine hasn't rusted to the thread. I'm currently giving them a soaking with WD40 for a couple of days then I'll try to get them out with a pair of multi-grips. Picked up a couple of new mounts for a few bucks each and I'll just put new struts on ($77/pair)

Ramonrainman · 06-02-2013, 12:26 PM

Hi - my first ever posting to a forum. Have just spotted rust around the boot strut mounts on my 99 AU1 XR6 - ball mounts still seems to be solid, so will clean back area and repaint, but does anyone know why/how this rust occurs? Thought it may have started under the strut mount where mud can accumulate, but actually seems to have started under the paint around the ball mount. Disappointing, as I regularly cleaned out with a toothbrush the crap which built up in this area.

mik · 06-02-2013, 05:23 PM

g`day mate welcome to the forum, not sure really but i suspect it could well be a bit of crap/grit gets between the ball bit and a bit of flexing over the years it gets through the paint and begins the rust process, or the wind catches the bootlid at some stage and stress cracks the paint, i can actually remember this happening on mine one day.

Ramonrainman · 07-02-2013, 05:51 PM

Thanks for quick reply, MIK, your comment makes sense, since that area is under constant stress from the loaded strut when boot down. Will paint area and keep an eye on it to see if rust recurs - will also fill gap between strut mount and panel to stop dirt build-up in there.
Next job - get the torn firewall fixed properly at clutch cable entry point, had a temporary fix there for three years now .......

Shambles · 07-02-2013, 08:39 PM

If I recall correctly the E Series had a threaded ball which may fit.

rmack · 07-02-2013, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shambles

If I recall correctly the E Series had a threaded ball which may fit.

Same with the B Series.

drmini · 09-02-2013, 07:22 PM

My AUII Futura sedan rusted both its strut lower balls off last year.
Attempted to unscrew them but nothing was there except the flange and remnants of the ball, both sides.
They put it in a stupid place where you can't drill straight to get it out and there's no room for a MIG welder, either.

So,here's what I did and it's still fine:
1. Grind the ball back to the flat flange with a dremel or die grinder.
2 Bend up a bit of sheet steel or S/S to sit behind and below the ball and protect the paint from burning.
3. Buy a new ball stud and cut all the thread off, then machine or file its flange flat.
4. Silver solder the 2 flanges together with oxy acetylene or oxy LPG. I used SBA45 solder (45% silver) it is strong stuff, & #2 flux. I tinned both faces with the solder first, then held the new ball with vice grips square against the old flange, and sweated the 2 parts together. Hold it still until the solder flashes off, and it's done. A bit of paint touchup and good to go.
I am a fitter & machinist by trade.
If you think this work is beyond your expertise, prep the parts, then go find a friendly plumber for the silver soldering job..

disco80 · 16-01-2015, 09:13 PM

Anyone have any luck with this?
Had it happen and told the spare part is now obsolete

begee08 · 28-01-2015, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco80

Anyone have any luck with this?
Had it happen and told the spare part is now obsolete

Same happened to me last week.

My strut mounts were both rusted away, and the plastic ends on the struts had also been damaged by the rusted balls. The gas struts themselves appeared ok.

For the princely sum of $7.70 I got replacement ball mounts and strut ends from a strut specialist supplier here in Perth.

Screwed the new ends on the struts, and drilled new holes for the mounts in front of the seized and rusted old ones.

A bit of bluetack on the finger to allow positioning of the mounting nut behind the panel without dropping it and the job was done in 30mins.

Fixed for under $10.

Got to have a win some time.

TK-421 · 30-01-2015, 05:36 PM

Do they have a mounting nut from the factory or was it added? Mine is stripped and keeps spinning.

begee08 · 30-01-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TK-421

Do they have a mounting nut from the factory or was it added? Mine is stripped and keeps spinning.

My replacement ball mount came with nuts.

Not sure what is on the back of the original ones as they are enclosed in a box section. I just left the old ones in situ and drilled new holes in front of them.

BlueBear · 05-05-2016, 09:05 PM

Thought I might resurrect this old thread to show how I fixed it, no welding or soldering involved.
1st up you need 2 ball joint pins, I got mine from the bonnet of a wrecked AU.
2nd you need a Nutsert Tool, I just got an el cheapo from ebay, like this.

This is the rusted off bit we have seen no doubt many times.

This is the hole, problem is it's essentially a double panel and the rear is not accessible without wrecking things.

The hole will need massaging to suit the M8 nutsert, but i just used a drill to ease it out a bit.
Nutsert is a bit tricky to get in as you can't get it to 90Deg to the hole, but I just did the best I could and then massaged it flatter with a hammer and small dolly.
Should end up looking like this.

Screw the ball joint thingo in and hook it up.

I did both sides in about 1/2 hour.

Bit of pressure pack paint sprayed in while your at it and it should be good for a fair while I reckon...

Cheers.

**George V** · 06-05-2016, 12:37 PM

BlueBear,

As they say, Necessity is......

Well done. Mine is showing some rust too.

Regards,
George

XRQTER · 01-06-2016, 08:40 PM

BlueBear, great write up. Few questions;
1. How did you get the ball joint out of the panel
2. How did you get the new ball joint fit into the hole

Thanks

Spurious · 14-06-2016, 04:16 PM

Prevention always being better than cure, I had a look at mine today, ball fitting looks ok ( bet I'm wrong though!) but there was an amount of moisture laden debris gathering in the cavity behind the fitting.
Makes sense as I usually park downhill slightly & rain has nowhere to go...I think.

Is there in fact a drain in those corners?

So at this stage I blew out all the muck & sprayed some WD40 everywhere.
That'll do 'til summer at which point I'll get into it with rust converter.

Regarding the drain comment, the WD40 didn't go anywhere when I sprayed in the corners. Ie: it didn't drain away.