free advice on the 83-87 telstar

[telstar85AS]

good idea, i'll give it a crack tonight

[dirty hands]

just had a thought
what fuel are you putting in your tank



the lead suppliment is an absolute must if its a leaded car and it cant be hit and miss - its better to have a higher percentage of the addative
engine timing performance and all kinds of wierd stuff happens ?

[telstar85AS]

the car is a Dec 85 AS Unleaded. So i use just regular unleaded. New dissy cap and lead are now on. starts all good now but still has the problem with the hiccups when driving and idling. Now thinking i'm getting too much air is getting in. runs smooth no hiccups) with the choke on (just at higher revs). but when the choke is let back out it starts to hiccup again.
someone said to get a motor vac done. and that might fix it.

[dirty hands]

well you have spent a lot of money chasing an electrical problem
now that everything has been replaced
that has been eliminated as a cause
good unleaded thats another cause crossed off

If the engine runs well- no valve or head problems
or uneven cylinder compressions
fuel filter clean and fuel pump works

no problems on choke (not familar with the term motor vac)
only leaves you with the carby
symptoms ----it wont idle and has irregular revs
lets talk carby
if you feel confident do you want to take the top off your carby ?
and clean it
or take it off the car and do it properly?
a carby rebuild kit from repco ?

[telstar85AS]

Yeah atleast with all the electrical it starts fine now. just gotta keep the engine going once it's started.

motor vac apparently flushes out fuel system and it increase vacuum pressure. so i've been told.

Being a uni student the buget is tight so i'll probably have a go at cleaning the carby first before i worry about a rebuild.

[dirty hands]

ok this is how to take the top of the carby off

I hope you have one of these - air pump - bicycle pump- compressor

if not just blow as best you can even use a straw if you have to
hope that helps

[dirty hands]

sorry people I used up my max upload space
I had to remove some :

[hrb93]

Hi,

Just purchased 4 weeks ago an 85 Telstar with a 2.0 Auto. It was owned by an old bloke, it has done 35,000Kms and was serviced every 6 months. (Immaculate).

Anyway, i noticed straight away that it used a fair bit of fuel ie: 15l/100kms around town. But yesterday, it started to idle extremely rough and splutter, and was very fumey. But when actually driving along, it goes fine.

any ideas?

Thanks.

[dirty hands]

for that small amount of km the car was over serviced in my opinion

auto matic choke may be the problem
let me know what the idle is cold and hot and if it does butterfly opens all the way when hot

if you want to pull the plugs out and have a look at them

what do the leads look like

and see what the timing is on the engine

[Holbrookau]

Also I found you cant run a leaded engine with auto on pure unleaded

Been running unleaded in my daughters '85 auto AR for a couple of years now - no problems at all.

[dirty hands]

Holbrookau want to share the info
about timing carburation valve settings?
did you do the head up ?

[dirty hands]

well mine was the 1984 2 litre 3 speed auto gl with air con carby leaded
no power steering standard tyres no modifications

its true the car will run on unleaded but not very well in my case
made a trip from brisbane to melbourne - not good on unleaded for mileage

you will find over time the valve stems might wear and you will need to
recondition the head if you are not using the leaded suppliment

what I found was I needed more acceleration and after doing fuel consumption figures I found it was costing me more to use unleaded than when super was availiable
the car certainly lost more than 10 percent power loss on unleaded
no matter what settings I used
head was done up carby rebuilt new timing belt
adjusted timing during that testing period and no better

see what you come back with ?

[Holbrookau]

To be honest nothing was changed, timing is fine and mixture is probably no different. She normally runs the car on 91 unleaded but occasionally puts a tank of premium through, although it (premium) nor LRP seem to give appreciable power gains and fuel consumption has been pretty much the same on all types of fuel. Never used additives in the 2 years she has owned the car.
I did put a carby kit through it some 18 months ago but that was mainly to fix a crook needle & seat and apart from replacing the timing belt the motor hasn't been touched. No doubt I'll have to do the head at some stage (if she hasn't upgraded before then) but at this point all is looking OK.
Just for info - its a TX5 Ghia but no air or power steer and has about 240,000 kms on it now.

[dirty hands]

good thats the answer then

with the air con on it certainly took the power away

dont know if the TX5 ghia had a better gearbox ratio or diff ratio

[Holbrookau]

No doubt A/C would be a big factor in power & fuel usage if you use it often. The Telstar/626 is not a light car (the TX5 hatchback more so), couple that with a carby motor & auto and extras such as A/C and they really are underpowered for Aussie conditions.
In regards to gearbox/diff in the TX5. I dont have the specs here but I would doubt they would be much differant to other models - no overdrive and a diff ratio that has the motor doing near 3500 at 110kph (South Australian speed limit) is not condusive to good fuel consumption!

[minux]

Quick question, have a KC laser which use as a work car (great little car i might add) other day i went out to start it and power was completly dead. Tried jumping it, nothing it just turn's over maybe 1 or 2 cycle's then die's. Wondering if it is possible it could be the starter motor? The power drain's instantly as soon as the car is turned over and the battery will not hold any charge. Won't roll or tow start seem's as if something is draining the power before it can even run?? Any idea's?

[Holbrookau]

Try fitting a known good battery..

[dirty hands]

if a cell fails the current will not flow through

do you have a volt meter
put it across the poles when cranking see how much the battery drains

also check that the alternator is charging the battery

the starter can drain the battery if the solenoid is faulty

[minux]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

if a cell fails the current will not flow through

do you have a volt meter
put it across the poles when cranking see how much the battery drains

also check that the alternator is charging the battery

the starter can drain the battery if the solenoid is faulty

Battery is fine, have used 2 different batterie's of which both work on other car's fine, alternator was just replaced.

Just need it going, cost's far too much to drive my car too work

[dirty hands]

then its a faulty starter motor

pm vippen he is the laser guru he will know whats going on

we were talking about a faulty ignition on the first page
there is a wire going to the thermatic fan on some wiring diagramms
if that fan is faulty that will drain the battery also

ok see how you go

[dirty hands]

some tune up info is on page one near the bottom
got valve adjustment
rpm for manual 800 +- 50
rpm for auto 900+- 50 i think i had mine at 1000 because of the air con
head bolts 88 nm
water pump is internal so its harder to see if its leaking run off the timing belt
bit of a job to fit a new one but not impossible
and luckily the gearbox can be removed from underneath the car without taking the motor out yipeee

servicing simply put

10,000km service minimum
change engine oil and filter . adjust valves ,check drive belt deflection
20,000 renew fuel filter
40,000km drain and change coolant, air filter,gearbox oil,spark plugs
brake fluid and bleed,repack bearings .
100000 renew cam belt
during that time
as required brake pads, leads ,cap ,vacumme lines fuel lines belts .tyres
suspension hub bearings cv and rubber dust and grease boots

then go from there and work out everything past the 200000km by that servicing interval

[dirty hands]

front hub bearing

I was able to use arubber mallet /or neoprene hammer and tap the two parts of the hub apart without any problem
evenly so the hub pieces can apart without forcing them
the book states use a hub seperator ?

then regreased the bearing and putting in new seals then refitting
no worries
the macpherson struts can be removed in one piece without special equipment just undo the 2 bolts on the steering knuckle after undoing the three smaller nutsin the engine bay
if you intend lowering or reconditioning the units yourself then a spring compressor and much care will be needed and a rattle gun for the main strut nut at the top .

[meanbow]

been a while since i been on here, but i thought i'd give everyone an update on my '83 telstar.
since i've had it...i replaced lots of bits to get the car running perfectly again, and added a few nice bits to it as well to aid fuel consumption.
if it's available over there in oz, try looking out for a neat little device called the ecotec CB26-P, it's cut fuel consumption right down, and has also fixed the warm start problem mentioned earlier on in this thread...and as for the aformentioned dashboard problem i was bugging everyone over, it seems to have been fixed. i must have pulled the dash out so many times and pulled it apart i must know it off by heart(by the way, it was a couple of broken pins on the digital speed display was causing it all, which a little bit of solder fixed)
if i can get a new lead for my digital camera, i'll upload some photo's of the car i took of it at a classic car show i attended...damn i got sick of being asked what it was that day!

[dirty hands]

when you post a reply or ask a question everyone learns something :

[dirty hands]

finally found a forum that has more wiring info mazda and telstar are close
so try

http://www.mx6.com

they have a radio section all made up with instructions and conversions

[dirty hands]

This is only one possibility as wiring changes happen with different cars
it is reccomended a continuity light and a volt meter still be used to trace the relevant wires so you dont blow the unit you are installing
use your common sense :togo:
print out and photo copy to size or move to software you can magnify

[dirty hands]

Meanbow the good welsh lad :newangel:
just finished stripping off the panels on his '83 Telstar and reviewed the wiring he did and this is what he came up with,
Meanbow always says
use a multimeter/circuit tester as well to confirm the correct wiring :

Telstar(GC/GD Platform) radio wiring
Light Green - Permenant live
Dark Green - Ignition live
Red/Green stripe - night illumination(light circuit)
Black - Ground/Earth

Speakers
Front right
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Green - Positive

Front left
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Orange - Positive

Rear right
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Red - Positive

Rear left
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with White - Positive

[Strop]

Recently purchased a 87 ford telstar (automatic). The car is very difficult to warm up. I have noticed that it is fitted with a thermatic (electric) fan. The thermatic fan is operating the moment the car is started. Would this be causing it to take so long tp warm up? If the car is not allowed to warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes, it stalls at every corner & set of lights where the revs drop top near idle. Can you offer any advice?

[dirty hands]

take the thermostat out and check that is there is one
that it is working
and the right one

someone must have direct wired the thermo fan and bypassed the relay and temp sensor for it to run straight away when cold
if you have the knowlage trace the thermo wires see where they hook up to
correct connection set up

then recheck the automatic choke settings

idle adjustment and choke settings need to be correct
to stop the stall/cutting out when cold

[dirty hands]

all the telstars running well thats good :