The AIT is registered!! - Page 2

Sick EB · 11-09-2006, 07:50 PM

well done. it should turn out even better after the mods

snypereb · 11-09-2006, 08:04 PM

Nice work mate so thats the bonnet you were walking out with on saturday at pick a part! lol

Sundeep · 11-09-2006, 09:10 PM

Sounds like your diff is dying!! Come and kill mine... the bloody thing wont die lol.

Sundeep

SileNceR · 11-09-2006, 09:26 PM

knocking sound could be trailing arm bushes take a look at those, dan did you fill it right up when it was running like crap? the guage might be completely wrong only way to know easily would be see how much it takes (ie it says about 20 left on the guage but takes 68L there's obviously a problem with the guage)

dansedgli · 11-09-2006, 09:29 PM

Hmm, it took 60 litres. How big is the tank?

The gauge was off the clock after I filled it up.

dansedgli · 11-09-2006, 09:30 PM

Ill check the trailing arm bushes. I was planning to upgrade to a 28 spline diff but not so soon.

Can I borrow your timing gun again sundeep?

EFFalcon · 11-09-2006, 09:47 PM

do they have different intank pumps?
maybe its got an EF fuel level sender or something.

the tank would be ~68litres.

dansedgli · 11-09-2006, 09:50 PM

Maybe, it has an intank and 2 external pumps :O They have definately messed with it. Ill check it out on the weekend. Until then Ill keep it topped up. Looks like I dont have fuel economy to look forward too :(

**Professor Farnsworth** · 11-09-2006, 10:24 PM

tank is 68 litres, reserve should kick in after about 58 or so litres are consumed.. dif isn't too much of an issue to replace though so you're nearly there.

dansedgli · 12-09-2006, 07:57 AM

Thanks guys.

With the trailing arm bushes if they are shagged would the diff move laterally? Say if you push and pulled on the wheel hub towards the other hub should the diff move? I put on the AJR's and noticed the diff moved in and out a little bit if I pushed on it. I thought it was a bit strange at the time. Is this movement normal?

Ill pull the tank out anyway and give it a clean, I dont think it was driven for a while before I bought it.

Sundeep · 12-09-2006, 02:25 PM

Tank is a ***** to pull out and clean. Just go buy one from Pick-a-Part or something. I remember I cleaned the one I took out of your EB Ghia and it took friggen for ever to pull out, change tanks, remove lines dry out etc.

Sundeep

2kool4u · 12-09-2006, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansedgli

Fell down the ugly tree and hit every branch.

AHAHA true :hihi:

Damo · 12-09-2006, 07:50 PM

I would have thought shagged trailing arms would be picked up on the RW test. Check the actual arms them selves is there is any kind of movement in them then the bushes are shagged. Could also be the tailshaft unis.

Sundeep · 12-09-2006, 08:23 PM

Uni's wont cause the diff to move side to side.

Watt's linkage would be the first thing to check out, and then move to lower trailing arms and then upper. You can tell if the bushes are shagged pretty much by looking at them or poking them.

Sundeep

dansedgli · 12-09-2006, 10:04 PM

Clunking was due to someone not tightening all the bolts on the rear left wheel. :O

Next job is to find the electrical fault.

Stevo · 12-09-2006, 10:11 PM

must be cool to have it on the road so quick mate. do a good burnout? (LEGAL OFFROAD FOR ALL YOU SOOKS)

dansedgli · 12-09-2006, 10:14 PM

Ive been too scared to try to be honest. With this clunking I thought the rear end was going to fall out. These new tyres are damn noisy too!

I might save it for heathcote. I dont want to break it just yet :P

pHaT`eL · 14-09-2006, 12:38 AM

wouldnt you rather break it alone where no one can see? lol.. I wouldnt mind checkin the car out Saturday, very rare car indeed.

PetesEBII · 14-09-2006, 01:30 AM

i had a knockin sound a while back and it was my uni's.
Put hand brake on, get under car and try and turn tailshaft, if you get clunkin' sound from the links that your prob

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansedgli

Clunking was due to someone not tightening all the bolts on the rear left wheel. :O

Next job is to find the electrical fault.

^^^^^

Walkinshaw · 14-09-2006, 08:36 AM

Dan, these came stock with a GT42R did they not *wink*

Ringo · 14-09-2006, 08:39 AM

Fuel problem could be one of the fuel pumps.

The good pump could be masking the bad pump. Once the fuel level drops the main pump is being starved of fuel (instead of being gravity primed) pointing to the in-tank pump not doing anything?

Usually there are two pumps because electric pumps are not so great at sucking fuel through a fuel line but are very effective at pushing it at pressure - hence why there is a primary pump in the tank and a pressure pump further down the line.

Just a suggestion....

PS your a lucky barstard.....horn car and fully legit

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringo

Fuel problem could be one of the fuel pumps.

The good pump could be masking the bad pump. Once the fuel level drops the main pump is being starved of fuel (instead of being gravity primed) pointing to the in-tank pump not doing anything?

Usually there are two pumps because electric pumps are not so great at sucking fuel through a fuel line but are very effective at pushing it at pressure - hence why there is a primary pump in the tank and a pressure pump further down the line.

Just a suggestion....

PS your a lucky barstard.....horn car and fully legit

Thanks mate. Ill check out the in tank setup on the weekend. I might fit up my surge tank if I get keen as well. That should solve the issue hopefully.

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walkinshaw

Dan, these came stock with a GT42R did they not *wink*

Nope, they did get a GT35R tho :P

Maybe a GT42R was on the special stage 3 models

NC_GHIA · 14-09-2006, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansedgli

My timing hasnt been touched since you saw it. Do you think that would cause it? I wasnt driving it hard, only 5psi.

Yeah you can be shotgun if the car runs alright. I need to get the crap out of the tank first.

if you find out what it is tell me cause thats what mine is doing... Mine is on the left side...

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 10:46 AM

Is your turbo manifold and turbo glowing red after a quick drive?

NC_GHIA · 14-09-2006, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansedgli

Oh and there is a knocking sound coming from the rear when coasting. If I accelerate it goes away. Is my diff already dying? I only did 1 burnout!!

Sorry I quoted the wrong one I meant this one... Sorry

Mr. CVE · 14-09-2006, 10:53 AM

May be time to chuck in a surge tank, as there may be too much splashing in your tank.
perhaps the timing could be adjusted, or even a timing computer fitted.
That would liven things up !!

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 10:59 AM

I advanced the timing a little bit last night. Maybe 4-5 degrees and it feels a little more responsive. I didnt notice a red glow like before either. I left it at that though and didnt try to go further.

Ill go for an aftermarket ECU after we see how far we can go with the big turbo and microfueler first.

I have a crane ignition system in my room as well, I think you can buy a timing retard module for it. That might be a cheaper option but would it work as well?

dansedgli · 14-09-2006, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6cylEA

Sorry I quoted the wrong one I meant this one... Sorry

The knocking sound was from loose wheel nuts. Check them as soon as you can. Wouldnt want a wheel falling off.