Oils Aint Oils - Page 2

bindi · 14-07-2005, 06:53 AM

Ok so what should I be buying for a) my EA and b) my Rolla?

I am sick of the oils I currently use, I think it's Mobil I've got in the Rolla but I want to do complete oil changes again on both cars because they really need it... and I would like to fill em back up with some Penrite (but which one?).

Also... bit of a thread hijacking here, but I was wondering what everyone thought of Slick 50. Years ago I put it in my HZ and it ran so much better. But was wondering what prolonged use does or indeed if there are any horror stories out there.

Ta

cogdoc · 14-07-2005, 09:13 AM

Have tried Slick 50, did it work....don't know. I CAN however vouch that the SLICK50 grease works amazingly well in light bearings, such as bicycle wheels. MUCH faster downhill, so at least the grease has me convinced!

Bindi the Penrite webpage has oil recommendations for aussie cars.

AUII_Forte · 14-07-2005, 09:15 AM

A car is more likely to have consumption problems with thinner oil rather than thicker stuff. The 0W stuff is like water. Basically the lower the first number the colder the conditions it's designed for 0W oils are meant for -25deg or something like that. How often does it reach that sort of temp in Australia??

johnydep · 14-07-2005, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUII_Forte

A car is more likely to have consumption problems with thinner oil rather than thicker stuff. The 0W stuff is like water. Basically the lower the first number the colder the conditions it's designed for 0W oils are meant for -25deg or something like that. How often does it reach that sort of temp in Australia??

No, that is not correct.

Oil consumption is controled by the quality of the oil & engine.

If you check out the oil manufacturers Material Safety Data Sheet, you'll find info on the oil's flash point, evaporation numbers & boiling point, also important is the high-temperature, high-shear specification. Oils are volatile.
The more volatile the oil the greater the consumption. Full Synthetics are less voatile than mineral oils.

And I have experienced this first hand; a previous question vehicle I had (Turbo intercooled) would use a small amount of oil between services, recommended oil was 10W40. I was given some 0W20 to try out, as I was planning on trading in the car I thought 'what the hell', that oil was amazing, power went up & oil consumption stopped (due to low volatile oil).

Engine oils are a very controversial subject, everyone has a different opinion, in the end it is best to use what's best for you.
Only oil analysis can give an answer that is 99% correct.

One thing to remember though, is that the European oil standards are the toughest in the world.

Learning The New Language of Motor Oil http://www.autoserviceworld.com/issu...6012005&PC=JOB

http://www.acea.be/ASB/ASBv1_1_new.nsf

TheSneakiness · 14-07-2005, 09:59 AM

I use Castrol GTX3. Must check it actually, haven't since the service.

Sox · 14-07-2005, 10:38 AM

'johnydep' is correct, you need to use the oil which is the correct viscosity for the design of the engine.
Things like bearing clearances, piston to bore clerances, etc, come into play here.

My personal preference is Penrite, not only because it is a very good oil, at least as good as the best or better, but it is also Australian made.

BTW, I notice several E series owners here are using HPR30 - You should actually be using HPR15, you will find your engine will produce slightly more power and run cooler with the recommeded thinner oil.
E-series cars use HPR15, and AU/BA use HPR10.

Rick.

MustangNicko · 14-07-2005, 10:41 AM

Is there MUCH difference? I just find that HPR30 makes her run quieter

Sox · 14-07-2005, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustangNicko

Is there MUCH difference? I just find that HPR30 makes her run quieter

Depends, typically a high mileage engine 'may' benefit from a thicker oil.
If you engine has less than 200,000k's, and is in good condition, then HPR15 should be a better choice.

Rick.

brenx · 14-07-2005, 11:03 AM

I usually run HPR 30 or 50 in my XB. I tried synthetic once. Cleveland seals aren't made to keep it in. Lasted 1500k's before it only had 2lt in the 7lt sump.

I run HPR 15 in my 02 Mazda and my EL I use whatver. The reason I use whatever in the EL is because it's the car thats caused me grief. It doesn't deserve it!

If I did put Penrite in it? It'd be HPR 30 as the EL's got a few k's on it now. Poor cars getting old.

Sourbastard · 14-07-2005, 11:28 AM

OK then, whats the recommendation for a rebuilt 302 windsor with modern gaskets and seals? The block is 1968 but will be hot tanked, should I still run a thicker oil with it? Or a lower viscosity such as HPR10?

brenx · 14-07-2005, 11:33 AM

68 model block/seal design won't hold anything synthetic in. Your best bet is to stay with a 20/50 oil which is what the engine/seals were designed.

Perana · 14-07-2005, 11:35 AM

In my old 250,000km EA motor i used Helix Plus (15-40), never used a drop...
Have got Helix Ultra (5-40) in the new AU motor though atm might get some Penrite HPR 10 for it next though... and have used Helix Ultra in dad's AU XR since the first service..

johnydep · 14-07-2005, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

OK then, whats the recommendation for a rebuilt 302 windsor with modern gaskets and seals? The block is 1968 but will be hot tanked, should I still run a thicker oil with it? Or a lower viscosity such as HPR10?

If it has modern seals & tight clearances and has been run in properly, a full synthetic is the best choice.

Something in the range of 10W-something or 15-something.

Sox · 14-07-2005, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

OK then, whats the recommendation for a rebuilt 302 windsor with modern gaskets and seals? The block is 1968 but will be hot tanked, should I still run a thicker oil with it? Or a lower viscosity such as HPR10?

I'd discuss it with your engine builder, as it depends on what clearances he has used.
I would assume it isn't as 'tight' as later engines, so I suggest HPR15 as good middle ground.

If he hasn't replaced pistons, just honed bores, and used standard sized bearings with just a linished crank, then HPR15-HPR30 would be ok.

If he has new pistons/bored, and new undersize bearings/ground crank, new lifters, new oil pump, etc, then HPR10-HPR15 should be ok.

Discuss it with your engine builder first.

Rick.

Sourbastard · 14-07-2005, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sox

I'd discuss it with your engine builder, as it depends on what clearances he has used.
I would assume it isn't as 'tight' as later engines, so I suggest HPR15 as good middle ground.

If he hasn't replaced pistons, just honed bores, and used standard sized bearings with just a linished crank, then HPR15-HPR30 would be ok.

If he has new pistons/bored, and new undersize bearings/ground crank, new lifters, new oil pump, etc, then HPR10-HPR15 should be ok.

Discuss it with your engine builder first.

Rick.

The engine builder... *looks around* oh yeah thats me.
Apart from machining the block, im doing a majority of the work myself.
Essentially the only thing remaining from the 68 engine, will be the block. Everything else, every welshplug, every thing I can find, will be replaced with an aftermarket part or new ford part.

This is the current shopping list
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=15152

Sox · 14-07-2005, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

The engine builder... *looks around* oh yeah thats me.
Apart from machining the block, im doing a majority of the work myself.
Essentially the only thing remaining from the 68 engine, will be the block. Everything else, every welshplug, every thing I can find, will be replaced with an aftermarket part or new ford part.

This is the current shopping list
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=15152

Looks to be an awsome package.
Considering you have mostly new parts, HPR10 or HPR15 would be my choice.

You might still want to talk to your engine machinist, as he will be boring and honing the block to give the correct piston to bore clearances and bearing clearances (though bearing clearances may be already determined by the new crank).

EDIT: Just make sure you use running in oil for the first 500-1000k's.

Rick.

4.9 EF Futura · 14-07-2005, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnydep

No, that is not correct.

Oil consumption is controled by the quality of the oil & engine.

If you check out the oil manufacturers Material Safety Data Sheet, you'll find info on the oil's flash point, evaporation numbers & boiling point, also important is the high-temperature, high-shear specification. Oils are volatile.
The more volatile the oil the greater the consumption. Full Synthetics are less voatile than mineral oils.

And I have experienced this first hand; a previous question vehicle I had (Turbo intercooled) would use a small amount of oil between services, recommended oil was 10W40. I was given some 0W20 to try out, as I was planning on trading in the car I thought 'what the hell', that oil was amazing, power went up & oil consumption stopped (due to low volatile oil).

Engine oils are a very controversial subject, everyone has a different opinion, in the end it is best to use what's best for you.
Only oil analysis can give an answer that is 99% correct.

One thing to remember though, is that the European oil standards are the toughest in the world.

Learning The New Language of Motor Oil http://www.autoserviceworld.com/issu...6012005&PC=JOB

http://www.acea.be/ASB/ASBv1_1_new.nsf

Great post this one. One thing's for sure - you'll do well to find a common opinon.

I'll throw my hat in the ring and throw another vote to Mobil 1 over the magnatec. I was running mobil 1 in the windsor for a while, had to give it up as i cant justify that kind of expenditure when i do oil everyu 5000km... was a beautiful thing while it lasted to - no oil consumtpion and heck, it just felt smoother. Currently on HPR and it's treating me well, nothing special.

Head down to repco and see the pricing on both oils - I think you'll find Mobil 1 around the $70 mark, magnatec around the $30 mark. Whilst this says little about quality - i question the dealer for charging an extra $80 for a $30 oil.

Shonky · 14-07-2005, 12:13 PM

What kind of oil would you guys recommend for an old XP 170.

Penrite only please...

Would HPR30 be the best for the job?

Sox · 14-07-2005, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Young 'un

What kind of oil would you guys recommend for an old XP 170.

Penrite only please...

Would HPR30 be the best for the job?

Very likely, but again, it also depends on the mileage and wear.
If it's been freshened up, HPR30 should be fine, if it's tired, maybe HPR50 would work better.

Rick.