Grechie's Cars Reborn!! - Page 2

INJECTED_250 · 30-05-2006, 08:33 PM

It should be right as long as u used cast rings and not chrome molley (hard to bed in)... When i rebuilt my au motor it ATE the oil for the first 1-2000 km, now it doesnt use a drop, .. You shouldnt have any trouble.. just make sure u keep checkign the oil usuage

Grechie · 30-05-2006, 08:35 PM

im confused as, dont want to sound like a idiot, but have i lost my window to bed them in as i let it idle for say 20 mins, and ive taken it up hill alot under load in 5th, ebs 4l u say yep that the first few km have to bed them in, but then u say itll be fine, is it screwed?

coz i checked the oil today and it was down 1 litre, now i duno if that extra oil is just circlulated around since everythign was bone dry, and also the oil filter takes a bit of oil, but i can smell it here n there...so if i did stuff up the run in process, it will just take longer to bed in??

old_mate · 30-05-2006, 08:37 PM

if its using oil after a few hundred/a thousand k's, yes its not too cosy. If not, your laughing.

INJECTED_250 · 30-05-2006, 08:41 PM

Yes it preety much will just take longer to bed in.... just drive it and stress less

Jason[98.EL] · 30-05-2006, 08:59 PM

Grechie

dont stress mate

all it will do now is take a bit longer to bed them in

just think about people that get an engine rebuilt in a local workshop does the workshop run the engine in no they leeve it to the owner

not all people have the knowlage base we have here

i know alot of people that have let an engine idle for 45 mins and not had a prob

also i have built a twin turbo motor for my old torana and i thrashed the living crap out of it from day 1 and no probs

hope this eases ya mind

jason

Grechie · 30-05-2006, 09:25 PM

hey, yea that eases my mind up heaps now thanks alot heljas and injectred 250, mr efxr and ebs 4l

but 1 more thing, i mis understood load, and put it in 5th up some short hills @ say 50 km/h it viabrated but pulled up easy, wont do it again as i found u can snap the ring or something i cant remmebr exactly, but yea i hope its not to late..

EB Pete · 30-05-2006, 09:53 PM

well i'm about to do this and i to are a little in the dark about 'load'. can you explain it please? my guess is up a nice windy hill in about 2nd or 3rd in an auto at about 60km/h? is that about right? and i shouldn't go over about 4500rpm?

ebs_4l · 31-05-2006, 01:08 AM

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

this will answer your questions, yes, you will have no probs, but, there is a more ideal way of doing it... as that article describes

mr_efxr · 31-05-2006, 07:40 AM

Putting the car under load up a hill means 2nd or 3rd and climbing up the hill at about 3000 - 4500rpm. That way the engine is doing work and the pistons travel higher up the bore.
I know people the be in the rungs and partially run motor by taking them to Mt Macedon, Mt Dandenong, Mt Buller, etc. They give it a few run bottom to top keeping the car in the rev range and she's right.
You need to have considerable fluctuations in speed not exceeding 80 kms for about the first 800 kms travel.

Grechie · 01-06-2006, 07:14 PM

ok it just hit me, u's want me to wide open throttle it in between 2500-4000 rpm in 2nd 3rd or 4th. i never knew that, and now ive done bout 400km/s n havent opened the throttle full at all .... i read that info on the link n it sed if i dont do that, then i have to re hone and get new rings n start over coz it happens in the first 20 miles (35km's) of wen its done, its still burning oil i can smell it, n wen i got home today i gave it a tiny rev n i could see a pinch of blue come out, this is really starting to me off, im taking it to 3grand just not on WOT, this is confusing and annoying, i hate this process, am i dooomed?

LUXO_8 · 01-06-2006, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grechie

.... i read that info on the link n it sed if i dont do that, then i have to re hone and get new rings n start over coz it happens in the first 20 miles (35km's) of wen its done, ?

thats more important on bikes.... and that was a bike site.....

i still reckon give it some more kms before being rash and rebuilding again

Grechie · 01-06-2006, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MADNC_8

thats more important on bikes.... and that was a bike site.....

i still reckon give it some more kms before being rash and rebuilding again

yea tru, but thats the thing, we wont be rebuilding it, if it keeps burnign oil then ah well, pos car ill sell it.

EB Pete · 01-06-2006, 08:08 PM

it really couldn't matter that much could it? it's just that when we get a new van at work we just thrash the hell out of it from day 1. i'm still going to run mine in properly but he still should be able to do an alright job? even try with a real light oil?

old_mate · 01-06-2006, 10:10 PM

mate, give the thing a hiding. Short shift it if your worried, but dont be afraid to let her rip a bit. I dont think you'll have done any damage, asses the situation once u have dumped the running in oil for some proper stuff and have done a few kays

Grechie · 02-06-2006, 12:53 AM

hey i took her for a 116km drive around town, ie different speeds, n i gave her WOT or sometimes 3/4 throttle till 3,000rpm - 3,500rpm then backed off, kept shifting threw gears, revved her a bit but nothign over 3500rpm in total, seems to only running a tad rich now, couldnt smell oil, have to see in the moarnign but wen i take off at the lights i didnt see a puff of oil to the person behind me, so far so good, more kays to come...

Grechie · 04-06-2006, 05:35 PM

hey guys!! done just over 1000 kays now (around 1060kays) ready to dump this oil now, n put more running in oil, wot running in oil should i choose, this valvoline monograde stuff seemed cheapo as its still burning a tad here n there of it...ive been driving it to about 3500 rpm, here and there, mainly only to 3000 rpm, around town, alot of different speed zones etc, am praying a newer grade of oil wont burn as i beilie this valvoine is no good and burns no matter wot.

old_mate · 04-06-2006, 06:34 PM

I'd forget the running in oil and go for normal stuff

1000ks is plenty IMHO. As i have said earlier, i would have given it more curry from get go

MADED-6 · 04-06-2006, 06:35 PM

i wouldnt put more running in oil just put some normal oil like hpr15 or something along those lines.

mr_efxr · 05-06-2006, 07:43 AM

Forget about the running-in oil now, put in slightly thicker anf good oil (matching the oil to the mods you've done, eg. HPR15, HPR30, HPR40). Use HPR as it will not turn to as quick.
You will find that the motor will use a bit of oil upto the 3000-5000kms mark.

Ringo · 05-06-2006, 08:42 AM

You'd expect with the thikcer regular oil (not the running in stuff) that the chance of blowing any smoke will dissapear.

Don't stress, from the sounds of it you've loaded up the engine gently and progressivly and had nothing happen except for the small wisps of smoke which have now disappeared...

Sounds like a job well done to me.....

Grechie · 05-06-2006, 11:30 AM

hey thankx guys for the input!, yea ill put in some hpr 30 or something, thick stuff, n see how she goes, ringo she still has some wisps of smoke coming out, even after 1070kms of driving, hopefully its just this valvoline run in oil crap, im hoping wen i dump this oil that it fixes up, if not, ill have to see if it runs in in bout the 3000-5000 mark like mr efxr said

also, wot rpm may i slowly take it to now, i havent really touched 4 that often, here n there id rev it out to 4g's but only a few times, wen can i start giving it flat stick to the limiter? n how should i go about doign it? say another 500 kays of only 4500 rpm? then after that slowly increase to 5?

ebs_4l · 05-06-2006, 01:08 PM

mate, give it all its got would ya.....

mr_efxr · 05-06-2006, 06:39 PM

I would do another 1500-2000kms in the 4000-4500 range before hitting the rev limiter, I don't mean to the point where the rev needle starts bouncing, just up to 5500.
This is personal choice but you may just want to dump the oil in the next 1500 just to ensure you've got all the crap out.

Grechie · 05-06-2006, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_efxr

I would do another 1500-2000kms in the 4000-4500 range before hitting the rev limiter, I don't mean to the point where the rev needle starts bouncing, just up to 5500.
This is personal choice but you may just want to dump the oil in the next 1500 just to ensure you've got all the crap out.

yep np !! ill only take it to 4500 wen i change oil tomoz for the next 1500 kays, or so, id rather be safe then sorry! thanx for ur advice

ebs_4l · 06-06-2006, 01:18 AM

ok, can someone explain, Y NOT rev it right out?? what do you's think the problem will be if you are revving it out?? what do you's think you are acheiving by babying a new engine?? what will high rpm wide open throttle do to it??

put it this way, the bearings will never be any newer, or fit any better than when they are installed, the pistons wont fit any better, nothing needs running in other than the rings, and even less so with the precision of modern boring/honing equipment.

you need to get the cylinder pressures up as soon as possible, which means full throttle.

many race car engines are assembled, then run up to operating temp, then run full throttle on a dyno to run them in... thats all you need

mr_efxr · 06-06-2006, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebs_4l

ok, can someone explain, Y NOT rev it right out?? what do you's think the problem will be if you are revving it out?? what do you's think you are acheiving by babying a new engine?? what will high rpm wide open throttle do to it??

put it this way, the bearings will never be any newer, or fit any better than when they are installed, the pistons wont fit any better, nothing needs running in other than the rings, and even less so with the precision of modern boring/honing equipment.

you need to get the cylinder pressures up as soon as possible, which means full throttle.

many race car engines are assembled, then run up to operating temp, then run full throttle on a dyno to run them in... thats all you need

Give FPV or any honest engine shop a call and ask them about the correct procedure for running in an engine with work done to it.
Things such a Valve springs, Cam, Crank after machining, bearings all need several thousand K's of progressive increase in revs before they are at normal operating state. You also need to get all the new bits an pieces used to the heat. Remember metal, etc expands under heat. Babying the engine around for a few thousands K's allows everything in the motor to reach operating temps and correctly bed in.
If give the engine high revs straight away chances are you'll do a ring, bearing or valve springs.

Race engines go out on track, come back to the shop after a days high rev work and and stripped down to view the results/ damage. Something always requires replacing.

I think Grechie want's this engine to last so he may as well go through the running in process correctly. It's not really babying the engine around, just gradually making your way to the high rev range.