Powershift transmission fluid change DIY - Page 2

bundybear75 · 13-07-2017, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rondeo

Some photos would be great.

The required temp in Ford manual is 35 to 45 deg C. Probably good enough to have it warm to the touch?

I have one of those laser thermometers. The outside of the filter housing would be close enough within a few degrees

Jasonp · 13-07-2017, 02:07 PM

Yeah, and I found it takes a while for the new oil temps to increase, so there's no rushing like on the ZF transmission.

I was too lazy to use Your tubing idea Rondeo

Didn't take too long to clamp up the air box

bundybear75 · 18-07-2017, 08:12 AM

Well, fluid change done. Quite simple if you follow Rondeo's step by step. Hardest part I found was undoing the f^$@#^g tight level check screw - Required a pipe over the end of the socket handle and a whole lot of swearing to get it undone.

20170714_150851 by bundybear75, on Flickr

Oil had been in for around 45000km (since speed sensor replacement) and came out a beautiful honey golden colour so no burning of clutch that I could tell.

Passenger front wheel must be removed - I thought I'd cheat and just turn it to the side but no luck. Oil filter has a 32mm "nut" on the end, I used a ring spanner from the side and a wedge in the plastic retaining clip.

20170714_153252 by bundybear75, on Flickr

All up used just shy of 7 litres of Penrite DCT. I probably added a little too much on the 250ml top ups at the end as it takes ages for the oil to start flowing out the level check hole.

cobrin · 18-07-2017, 09:45 AM

Great work bundybear

Jasonp · 18-07-2017, 10:02 AM

Hmm, my oil came out like used engine oil at 94K

So would appear to have not been changed at 60K when serviced by previous owner.

Wish I hadn't bought the car now. Tranny shifts fine, though concerned the internal filter is full of more **** than should otherwise have.

My thinking is no oil change-internal filter blocks- oil starvation- tranny f k d Being the cause of most failures we read about with these transmissions.

Love my mondy but wish I'd taken more due diligence. No point crying over it now.

bundybear75 · 18-07-2017, 10:09 AM

By the way why does the breeze always come up just as the oil finishes draining?

Bloody oil everywhere. Happened both with the engine oil and then the tranny oil.......

Used to always happen when I did the transmission fluid on my Commodore - oil everywhere

rondeo · 18-07-2017, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jasonp

Hmm, my oil came out like used engine oil at 94K

So would appear to have not been changed at 60K when serviced by previous owner.

Wish I hadn't bought the car now. Tranny shifts fine, though concerned the internal filter is full of more **** than should otherwise have.

My thinking is no oil change-internal filter blocks- oil starvation- tranny f k d Being the cause of most failures we read about with these transmissions.

Love my mondy but wish I'd taken more due diligence. No point crying over it now.

According to the ATSG service information there is an internal sump filter.

I guess its a coarse filter to pick up relatively large particles before the fluid is pumped to the external filter.

This would be required to prevent the fluid pump from eating plastic or metal shards from component failure.

On that basis I wouldn't think dirty fluid would be a problem for the internal sump filter.

rondeo · 19-07-2017, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bundybear75

By the way why does the breeze always come up just as the oil finishes draining?

Bloody oil everywhere. Happened both with the engine oil and then the tranny oil.......

Used to always happen when I did the transmission fluid on my Commodore - oil everywhere

Fate?

or Fortune?

Seems to me the black may be from the clutches.
So the fluid colour will get darker sooner in the city?
Thanks for the pics!!

stefcio007 · 25-08-2017, 06:39 PM

This is a bit weird but I have a Focus as you all know but it uses the same trans as the diesel Mondeo and Ford extended the warranty on wet-clutch transmissions to 7 years.

Personally haven't had the same issues to the extent of the dry clutch petrol Focuses but makes me wonder if Ford has found something that we don't know about? or did they just make it wet-clutch extended warranty as well so that for the ones that do get issues they don't have to explain to people wet vs dry or that there should be no issues.

Mondaveo · 27-08-2017, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stefcio007

This is a bit weird but I have a Focus as you all know but it uses the same trans as the diesel Mondeo and Ford extended the warranty on wet-clutch transmissions to 7 years.

Personally haven't had the same issues to the extent of the dry clutch petrol Focuses but makes me wonder if Ford has found something that we don't know about? or did they just make it wet-clutch extended warranty as well so that for the ones that do get issues they don't have to explain to people wet vs dry or that there should be no issues.

!! That's very interesting. Is this a new initiative? How did you find out your diesel Focus has a 7-year transmission warranty? Are they sending out letters to owners?

It's probably as you say, they've just extended it to cover all Focus models for expediency, but then in the past they've been very adamant about what models are and aren't included, so that seems like a reversal of position.

I'd be very interested to read the detail of this warranty, if it mentions the 6DCT450 transmission directly I'd definitely argue it should apply to Mondeo as well.

stefcio007 · 27-08-2017, 11:23 AM

The wet clutch was diesel only as we all know, I'm not the original owner of my car so even if they did send something out I wouldn't have received it. Seems to big of a statement to be a typo.

Mondaveo · 27-08-2017, 11:40 AM

Oh sorry, I took it that you had a diesel Focus.

Where are you reading that diesel/wet clutch Focus is included in the extended warranty program?

This is a statement direct from www.ford.com.au/faq (emphasis mine):

Quote:

The specific vehicles that may be affected by technical issues including a shudder under light acceleration are 2011-15 Focus, 2010-2016 Fiesta, and 2013-16 EcoSport models with petrol engines and Powershift automatic transmissions.

Manual or diesel models are not affected.

stefcio007 · 27-08-2017, 11:47 AM

No, your assumption is right. I have the diesel.
Here -> http://www.caradvice.com.au/570740/f...-and-remedies/

Quote:

“Any repairs, including the latest clutch fitment, are completed under warranty. We’ve extended the warranty for wet shudder up to seven years, dry shudder up to five years and 10 years on the TCM. Any which way, we’ve got you covered,” he added.

I assume by wet shudder they mean wet-clutch type? Unless they are talking about something else? Unless this is unofficial and accidentally slipped the mouth of the employee during the interview?

This one line raises a lot of questions.

jandj · 27-08-2017, 05:38 PM

I had a workshop at Rothwell service my wifes 09 Focus TDCI auto , for $300 we got a fluid flush and new filter.
It's a completely different car if actually changes gears properly , when gearbox was serviced by ford it wouldn't change gears you would except for an auto.

Mondaveo · 27-08-2017, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stefcio007

I assume by wet shudder they mean wet-clutch type? Unless they are talking about something else? Unless this is unofficial and accidentally slipped the mouth of the employee during the interview?

I've read that article. They are naming three faults with the dry-clutch transmission: oil leak ('wet' shudder), overheating and degradation of the clutch material ('dry' shudder), and TCM failure.

Quote:

The initial issue was leaky seals on the gearbox that let to oil contamination of the dry clutch module, which presented to customers as a shudder.
[...]

What Ford found was that there were two additional and unrelated issues with the PowerShift transmission that could cause shudder or jerky behaviour when accelerating [...].

“One of which was the heat transfer of the clutch material, and that wasn’t presenting consistently either – sometimes in urban situations and sometimes in situations where there was no pattern, so you had to go through a bit of analysis,” Whickman said.
[...]

“And thirdly, and unrelated to the clutch itself, the transmission control module (TCM), the computer chip [was an issue] and over a long time that chip can or may have a solder crack, and with that, the capability to talk in microseconds [is compromised]. That can present itself in a jerky or rough shifting situation.”

As for "accidentally slipped from the mouth of the employee", the quotes above in the article are from current head of Ford Australia Graeme Whickman, and for your snippet, head of communications Martin Gunsberg. So very official, and unfortunately definitely not addressing issues for owners of wet-clutch Powers#t vehicles

stefcio007 · 27-08-2017, 10:09 PM

Cheers, looks like I have nothing to worry about then.

rondeo · 22-03-2018, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rondeo

FLUID CHANGE
Getrag 6DCT450 on MONDEO 2007-2014

1. PREPARATION

Ford specification WSS-M2C936A.
OR
FUCHS part number 4377
FUCHS Titan DCTF

6 litres is the normal amount of fluid to drain,
7 litres will be needed to refill because about 0.5 to 0.75 litre is lost during level adjustments.
Transmission filter kit, comprising filter plus housing and seal.
Temperature of transmission fluid: 35-45 degrees C (Forscan)
Transmission must not be in limp mode or have DTC's.

Remove passenger side wheel.
Remove the retainers (three are underneath) and pull the wheel arch liner out to the side to gain access to the transmission filter from underneath.

Remove air filter housing etc to gain access to filler plug.
Alternatively arrange a tube with an elbow at the end to fit in the filler hole. A 1/2" drive 8mm hex and ratchet just fits under the air box, and the plug can be reached by hand.
Raise car to a convenient height.
Remove undertray (10mm socket)
Place waste container to hold about 6 litres.

Note: CAR MUST BE LEVEL FOR THE FOLLOWING

Engine running, brake pedal applied, select all gear positions for 20 seconds each. Return to PARK and switch engine off.

2. DRAIN THE OLD FLUID

There are 3 drain plugs before 02/2009, 2 drain plugs after.
Remove all the 8mm hex socket drain plugs.
After the fluid has drained replace the drain plugs.
Unlock and remove the filter (32mm socket).
The filter housing has a plastic locking clip, a
plastic wedge is handy to hold it open.

3. FILL WITH FRESH FLUID

Prime the new filter with fluid (about 0.1 litres) and install.
Fill transmission with 5.5 litres of fluid.
Install the filler plug.

4. LEVEL ADJUSTMENT

Level adjustment is done in two stages.

1.

Engine running, brake pedal applied, select all gear positions
for 20 seconds each. Return to PARK and switch engine off.
Remove the level check plug (8mm hex).
A two-foot long extension with a universal joint makes it easy.
Allow fluid to drain until it begins to drip.
(maybe 250ml lost)

Note: THE FLUID THAT ESCAPES AFTER
THE FLUID LEVEL CHECK HOLE IS OPENED
IS NOT AN INDICATION OF CORRECT FLUID LEVEL.
FLUID MUST BE ADDED THROUGH THE FILLER OPENING
WITH THE LEVEL CHECK HOLE OPEN UNTIL THE FLUID AGAIN
RUNS OUT AT THE LEVEL CHECK HOLE, AS FOLLOWS:

2.

Top up via filler hole in 250ml lots until fluid flows again
through the level check hole,
(be patient, may need up to 750ml)
allow to drain until it begins to drip.
(maybe another 250ml lost)

Install level check and filler plugs etc.

See also:

http://www.furitech.com.au/

for a better level check procedure.

stefcio007 · 22-03-2018, 08:38 PM

More direct link to what was posted above http://www.furitech.com.au/index.php...-fluid-change/

rondeo · 24-03-2018, 07:48 AM

FLUID CHANGE
Getrag 6DCT450 on MONDEO 2007-2014

1. PREPARATION

Ford specification WSS-M2C936A
OR
FUCHS Titan DCTF
OR
Penrite DCT Fluid.

6 litres is the normal amount of fluid to drain.
7 litres will be needed to refill because fluid is lost during level adjustment.
Transmission filter kit, comprising filter plus housing and seal.
Temperature of transmission: 35-45 degrees C (Forscan)
Transmission must not be in limp mode or have DTC's.

Remove air filter housing to gain access to filler plug.
Alternatively arrange a tube with an elbow to fit in the filler hole.
A 1/2" drive 8mm hex and ratchet just fits under the air box, and the plug can be reached by hand.
Remove undertray (10mm socket).

Remove passenger side wheel.
Remove the retainers (three are underneath) and pull the wheel arch liner out to the side to gain access to the transmission filter from underneath.
Place waste container to hold about 6 litres.

Note: CAR MUST BE LEVEL FOR THE FOLLOWING

Engine idling, brake pedal applied, select all gear positions for 20 seconds each.
Return to PARK and switch engine off.

2. DRAIN THE OLD FLUID

There are 3 drain plugs before 02/2009, 2 drain plugs after.
Remove all the 8mm hex socket drain plugs.
After the fluid has drained replace the drain plugs.
Unlock and remove the filter (32mm socket).
The filter housing has a plastic locking clip, a
plastic wedge is handy to hold it open.

3. FILL WITH FRESH FLUID

Prime the new filter with fluid (about 0.1 litres) and install.
Fill transmission with 5.5 litres of fluid.
Temporarily install the filler plug.

4. LEVEL ADJUSTMENT

Level adjustment is done in two stages.

1.

Engine idling, brake pedal firmly applied, select all gear positions
for 20 seconds each. Return to PARK and switch engine off.
Remove the level check plug (8mm hex).
A two-foot long extension with a universal joint makes it easy.
Allow fluid to drain until it begins to drip.

Note: THE FLUID THAT ESCAPES AFTER
THE FLUID LEVEL CHECK HOLE IS OPENED
IS NOT AN INDICATION OF CORRECT FLUID LEVEL.
FLUID MUST BE ADDED THROUGH THE FILLER OPENING
WITH THE LEVEL CHECK HOLE OPEN UNTIL THE FLUID AGAIN
RUNS OUT AT THE LEVEL CHECK HOLE, AS FOLLOWS:

2.

Top up via filler hole in 250ml lots until fluid flows again through the level check hole.
Allow to drain until it begins to drip.
Several lots of 250ml may be required.
The fluid level adjustment is then complete.

As an extra precaution a measuring jug may optionally be used
to check that an extra lot of 250ml indeed flows from the level check hole.

Install level check and filler plugs etc.

rondeo · 24-03-2018, 07:49 AM

Updated the fluid level check procedure.
Now includes an optional extra precautionary step when checking the level,
as suggested by the Furitech article.

The procedure outlined in my DIY instructions are otherwise in accordance
with the Ford factory workshop manual and the Volvo training video:

https://vimeopro.com/completemedia/v...video/29488374

stefcio007 · 12-07-2018, 11:03 PM

Is it not worth doing the internal filter? or is it basically one of those "lifetime" parts that may need replacing but will probably outlive the vehicle?

My old VW had a "sealed for life" transmission but obviously it was a good idea to change the fluid, it only had an internal filter, no external, but after 20 years the internal filter seemed fine and the magnet inside had no metal filings.

These transmissions have a similar internal filter but I assume most of the junk must be caught by the external filter so the internal one never needs replacing?

rondeo · 13-07-2018, 04:27 PM

The internal filter is just for large particles like swarf and plastic debris.

Normally dirty oil won't clog it.

It's not normally serviceable and would require removal and opening of gearbox. It's attached to the fluid pump.

bundybear75 · 07-01-2019, 04:26 PM

Just completed the transmission service for the second time, at 240,000km.

Re-read this forum again, and watched the videos linked. The old oil came out a beautiful honey colour, not a lot different to the new oil so it seems the internals are in good condition. Got a little bit excited on the release catch for the filter so i no longer have a catch. Hopefully it won't work loose....

Used a little over 6 1/2 litres of Penrite DCT fluid. It's getting harder to find now, Supercheap no longer stock it, but i found it at Autobarn.

Seems to drive smoother but it had a new air and fuel filter along with the engine and transmission service.

whitelion65 · 07-01-2019, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bundybear75

Used a little over 6 1/2 litres of Penrite DCT fluid. It's getting harder to find now, Supercheap no longer stock it, but i found it at Autobarn.

Seems to drive smoother but it had a new air and fuel filter along with the engine and transmission service.

My independent used Fuchs on mine recently. Similarly, I thought there was a good improvement in transmission performance.

rondeo · 09-01-2019, 05:58 PM

Torque spec for filter is 15 Nm (Ford manual) so not very tight.

Does it not need to be tighter because it's restrained by the plastic clamp or it shouldn't be tighter because it might break?

I recently bought 20l Fuchs Titan DCTF for $380, compare this to the Ford dealer equivalent price per litre for fluid only of $1080 I paid in 2013.

bundybear75 · 09-01-2019, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rondeo

Torque spec for filter is 15 Nm (Ford manual) so not very tight.

Does it not need to be tighter because it's restrained by the plastic clamp or it shouldn't be tighter because it might break?

I recently bought 20l Fuchs Titan DCTF for $380, compare this to the Ford dealer equivalent price per litre for fluid only of $1080 I paid in 2013.

I just tightened it till it went loose then backed it off a little.. Lol. Seriously, i tightened it with a 32mm spanner choked up near the head so not too tight. About the same as i do the oil filter housing to. I might put a spanner on it next service to be sure.

Oil i got for about $80 for 4L. Little bit dearer than your 20L but i only have one DCT car so it would take a while to use a 20L. I'll get away with a 4L next time as i have about 3L left in the bottle i have. (Still had 1 1/2 litres from last service)

rondeo · 05-09-2019, 06:08 PM

Mr Howatt does his first fluid change:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CERqRSK2SWM

Usefull pics from Ford somewhere around 18 min.

bundybear75 · 12-03-2020, 12:19 PM

Completed a transmission service once again yesterday.

Managed to complete the filter change and level check from below without removing wheel or liner. - I may have broken the filter retaining clip in a previous service.

Unfortunately, Penrite don't seem to sell DCT fluid in 4 litre bottles anymore. I managed to get the last bottle on the shelf in Goulburn a few months ago in preparation. Not sure which way to go next time. 20L or change brands?

rondeo · 12-03-2020, 03:11 PM

I bought 20 litres yesterday, FUCHS DCTF. $390. That's $14.50/litre.

Having two cars to do makes it worth while.

I've only ever done mine at 60000km, and the colour was OK.
Probably depends on clutch activity. In my case mostly open road so not much.

stefcio007 · 10-04-2020, 11:54 AM

Is this possible to be done on the driveway?
The only worry I have is being able to do the level check properly.

Tools I have for raising the car are a 3 ton trolley jack and 4 jack stands.

What's the safest way to do this?

In all the DIY videos I've seen they've got the car on a lift.