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Old 29-05-2008, 10:14 PM   #31
DJR MAN
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You'll be in for an interesting day tomorrow - end of month this week end - got to get the sales figures in by C.O.B.

Remember, ITS YOUR MONEY.

And they want that more than you want a car, and they know there are more cars on the used car market than there are people with money to spend.

Stay calm and good luck
(good advise gngtho).
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Old 29-05-2008, 10:34 PM   #32
David See
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJR MAN
You'll be in for an interesting day tomorrow - end of month this week end - got to get the sales figures in by C.O.B.

Remember, ITS YOUR MONEY.

And they want that more than you want a car, and they know there are more cars on the used car market than there are people with money to spend.

Stay calm and good luck
(good advise gngtho).
Hmmmm....NEVER THOUGH OF THAT ANGLE but will remember it tomorrow!

So, let's cut to the chase here:

The sticker price is now $34990. They are wanting me to give them a figure I am happy with. A buy it now price, if you will.

What should I go in at to "sign for the car now"?

Sure don't want to go in too high!!!

These cars are pulling pretty good money - funny, considering the price of fuel (even though they are no much heavier on fuel than a Falcon/Territory). Private sellers are asking too much for them in my opinion (same as dealers and more in some cases)
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Old 29-05-2008, 10:40 PM   #33
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Does the vehicle have service history ? If so where did they get it from ? Was it traded or was it bought at auction ? Have you looked to see what the dealers would generally give for this vehicle if it was traded in. You could also get a rough idea of the going price at the auctions as well, that should give you a better indication of what they may have paid for it. Most of the larger car yards (from what I have been told) don't bother to keep a lot of trade ins nowadays unless they are in very good condition and can be resold without spending a fortune on them getting them up to scratch. If they really want your business they will negotiate with you but just make sure you compare all 3 vehicles carefully and take into consideration how many k's on the clock, service history, how well each one drives on the road, paint and body work, tyres, how much rego ....... the list goes on. If there is something you don't like about one of them, then try to use that as a negotiating tool, for example if the one in Sydney has new tyres but the one in Gosford's are badly worn, use that to try and get the price down further or ask if they would consider fitting another set of tyres. In the end the decision is yours and obviously you want to get the best deal, so just stick to your guns as you have so far and take your time. Best of luck !!!

Cheers
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Old 29-05-2008, 10:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apolloxbgt
A 220 would be a 3,and you expect to pay a premium if you are going to buy from a ford dealer.

I wouldn't be buying anything other than new,or demonstrator from a ford dealership,especially something as old as an au.
sounds like the equivelent of holding a naked flame to thousands and thousands of dollars.
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Old 29-05-2008, 10:55 PM   #35
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David,

Some pretty good advise there from most.
They may have some play left in it, but wouldn't be surprised if they didn't. It does happen.

I think you should go with your gut feel about it and keep emotion out of it.

Also, don't go in saying you found one somewhere else for $29999. Firstly, it can't be the same car as all used cars are different. If they say they can't do it and you offer $31000 lets say, then they know you are lying. So effectively you have cost yourself money as most won't come down.

Good luck and let me know if you need anymore advice.
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:03 PM   #36
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I guess, as long as the local car comes up to scratch, then it would be a smarter buy as I wouldn't have to drive to Sydney (Fuel $$$$) for the services/warranty, but then again maybe I could save some more serious money if I decline the warranty in the first place. That's if they would allow it.

It's a clean car, no doubt about it, reasonably low km's (88,000 for a 2004 model) and looks great (that is if you like 4WD's).

Personally, I think I would be doing well if I got the Sydney one for $32k. A lot is going to ride on the Gosford one tomorrow.
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:11 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Sam
The extended warranty isnt worth the paper its written on, it simply locks you into getting them to service it. I wouldn't factor this into to the deal, simply tell them to keep it and find yourself a quality mechanic who knows his toyotas.
+1. Good mechanic > poor warranty.
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:12 PM   #38
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maybe accept the offer (the 2k less that they offered) and then suggest some accessories to seal the deal.
once you own the car, what are you going to need to buy for it?
a dash mat?
floor mats?
ask them to throw some things like that into the deal (maybe not that easy since it is a Toyota at a Mazda dealer - or the other way round - cant remember).
how about a $500 fuel card?
a service or 2 free of charge?

it doesnt have to be all about the dollars does it?
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:13 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David See
I guess, as long as the local car comes up to scratch, then it would be a smarter buy as I wouldn't have to drive to Sydney (Fuel $$$$) for the services/warranty, but then again maybe I could save some more serious money if I decline the warranty in the first place. That's if they would allow it.

It's a clean car, no doubt about it, reasonably low km's (88,000 for a 2004 model) and looks great (that is if you like 4WD's).

Personally, I think I would be doing well if I got the Sydney one for $32k. A lot is going to ride on the Gosford one tomorrow.
Ask the question about the warranty mate. I bought a wrx a few years ago and saved $1200 not buying the warranty. Also saved countless dollars not getting charged $165 min service fee.

Some car yards do really discount there cars to floor cost or very close if the car has sat for 30-60 days. I have a mate who owns a car yard and will burn a car that has sat for over 60 days cause he doesnt want the town thinking that he never sells cars. On the other hand a yard on the other side of town has had the same BA mk2 gtp for sale for the last 18 months and not dropped the price once.

Good luck mate, be nice to the salesperson. They are just trying to make a living. But if they treat you like **** talk to someone else.
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:20 PM   #40
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act like a tight ***! my dad did when he was dealing with the salesperson, and with all others lol, of my VT 4 years ago... they were trying to sell it for around $19980, but they ended up pushing it down to $12000. We paid $13000 due to wanting new tyres, petrol, certificates, and service lol.
My dad used to be an accountant at a honda dealership and he basically knows how much they sell the cars over...
Dads advice was to make sure you give an aura to the salesperson that you really want the car... i dont know how much luck you'll get with a new car, but for a used car always say your only willing to pay half of what they're trying to sell it for... of course they wont bring it to that price, but that'll make them push the price as low as possible... say that their price is still too high, but you're willing to maybe add another gran or so... and continue... even walk out of the dealership if its not low enough because you won't be losing anything anyway, just go to another dealership... Fact is with used cars, the dealership wants to get rid of them so they're alot easier to deal with... Just from what i was told, and have seen
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:31 PM   #41
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Actually, I found them most pleasant and professional to deal with. I even got a really nice capacino! :-)

Sure, they wanted my business there and then - who wouldn't - but there is always tomorrow. Especially seeing as it is the end of the month.
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:31 PM   #42
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I have one question for you. Will you be paying cash or will you be paying the car off. If you are paying it off be sure to check out the interest rate before making any offers. Where you ask them to reduce the price, they mark up the percentage rate on payments to recoup funds they lose. It pays to not only get a reduction on car price but also on the interest rate. Also if you have a partner, send her in to negotiate with and make out the car is for her, as we did that with all the cars we have purchased. Sales people usually know that they can win over the guy more so then the girl when it comes to sales, but as we know girls know how to bargain hard. Good luck with it all. Cheers Tracey
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Old 29-05-2008, 11:50 PM   #43
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Just tell them the one you saw today was about the price you are hoping to pay (even if it wasn't), that it would be more convenient for you with regard to servicing and the like, if they could match the other price you'd be happy and sign today. I've heard that the Gorrell group in Geelong actually give discounts to Geelong residents just to keep the business in the town, been told this by customers that have bought locally through my roadside travels.

The biggest thing any salesman wants to hear is that you're ready to sign, forget what they say they need hits on the board if they're gonna make there quota for the month.

If the price is way off then start walking, if it's convenient for only 2 or 3 times a year it goes to the dealer and this is what is making your decision for you then you're really not thinking straight. The bottom line is are you happy to pay what they want, if the answer is yes then go ahead if not then move on.
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Old 30-05-2008, 02:00 AM   #44
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Go have a look at the other one early in the day. Ring the other dealer and say you are about to walk out the door to have a look at it and make him a super low offer and work on it from there. Like the others said, last day of the month etc.
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Old 30-05-2008, 07:28 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David See
Bull or not, they asked me what it would take for me to buy the car there and then....
Then again, maybe I should start at 30k and work up to $32k...the car is worth it as far as I am concerned...
why not say "ok then, $32,000 out the door drive away. dealer, gst, stat fees all included in that price.

few grand saved there
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Old 30-05-2008, 05:19 PM   #46
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Ok, day is over...not as exciting as I had hoped...

Local car is a year older ('03 4-speed auto with 80000km), Sydney car ('04 5-speed auto with 88,000km). Look identical except for them having different extras. Don't know why, the Sydney one just looked and "felt" better to me. Best (that's our price, take it or leave it) local price $34k, Sydney $33k.

It appears to me the local car has done some off-road stuff where I reckon the Sydney one has been a city car. Just felt newer.

The local car was nice, but didn't "turn me on" as much as the Sydney one did, although this might be becaue I am sick of looking.

I would say the Sydney one is the winner. They are even going to fix up some scrapes on the bumper for me and a few other things.

But I was curious as to why the Sydney dealer woudn't give me access to the books where the local dealer did. They said something to do with privacy act. Maybe things have changed since I bought my last car.

Anyway, all I have to do now is sign...

Last edited by David See; 30-05-2008 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 30-05-2008, 06:35 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David See
But I was curious as to why the Sydney dealer woudn't give me access to the books where the local dealer did. They said something to do with privacy act. Maybe things have changed since I bought my last car.

Anyway, all I have to do now is sign...
Privacy act is the reason.
the dealer that showed you the books can find himself in a lot of trouble for doing so.
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Old 30-05-2008, 06:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davway
Privacy act is the reason.
the dealer that showed you the books can find himself in a lot of trouble for doing so.
I bet dealers cheered loudly when that law was passed!

Another car directly off a lot at another dealership had the books in it when we were taking it for a test drive. I rang the previous owner who was happy to let us know what the car was like.
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Old 30-05-2008, 07:06 PM   #49
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it all works in 3's

shop around for a price youd be happy with.... hit them with a little lower and come up slowly, dont be a douche because you wont get anything

i hate hagglers but if you take it casually you should be fine.... if you dont get the price ask for the options... the mats, protection, tint something

be prepared to come up or just walk away
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Old 30-05-2008, 10:56 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David See
I have always been curious as to how much profit they have to make.

For example, if I DON'T trade in a car and they give me their best CASH PRICE on the new vehicle, why do they have to go back to the original sticker price on the new vehicle once a trade is introduced?

I mean, even their BEST CASH PRICE on the new vehicle would have some profit, would it not, otherwise they wouldn't do the deal in the first place. Then if they get a trade-in, they are going to re-sell that at a profit, one would think.

SO why, oh why, do they go back to the sticker price once a trade is introduced into the deal? I mean, they will then end up maing a profit on TWO cars then, will they not, or am I missing something vital?

FOr example:

Them: DO you have a trade in?

Me: No

Them: Ok, we can do a good deal for cash with no trade.

.....we get to the cash price, then:

Me: Ok, now what about if I trade in my car?

Them: Well, that is different...we will have to go back to the original proce on the new car.

What gives?????
It's basically so you feel better about the value of your trade.

ie $40,000 car

$35,000 no trade cash price.

if you had a trade worth say $15,000

$15,000 less an reco costs say $1500, less a profit margin $1500 = value of the trade $12,000

So on paper $40,000 for the new car less $17,000 for the trade = $23,000 change over.

Sounds better the $35,000 less $12,000 for the trade =$23,000
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