Oils aint oils

[BillC]

I ended up putting in Nulon synth and also added the nulon additive. I flushed the engin with nulon flush. The nulon oil claims 32% less friction than other leading synth oils. After reading ronwest's article from Tech Resources it would have been interesting where nulon fits in. I also wonder how these figures compare to mineral based oils.

[BillC]

Just an update, I am so surprised how much different my Ute is going now. I am not sure if it was the engin flush or the Nulon synthetic oil or the Nulon additive but the care is running so much smoother and I can feel the difference in power.

I think I will do the same to my XR8. Its done 120,000. Is it worth doing the flush ?

[Erich]

whats the price of the Nulon??

[Hords]

Originally Posted by dreadly

Also the magnetic bonding stops any loose particals from falling into the sump, hense not coming out with your oil change.

Yeah? How so...

[BillC]

The Nulon full synth oil was $56 from supercheap, the additive was about $40 to $50 (its the 80,000 Klm stuff) and the nulon flush was about $10 to $20 I seem to recall.

[Mainlube]

Originally Posted by BillC

Just an update, I am so surprised how much different my Ute is going now. I am not sure if it was the engin flush or the Nulon synthetic oil or the Nulon additive but the care is running so much smoother and I can feel the difference in power.

I think I will do the same to my XR8. Its done 120,000. Is it worth doing the flush ?

Flushing everything, everytime you change fluid is well worth it and can easily make quite a difference to the running of any machine.

There is a paper in the Mainlube Forum on this, there is no use applying new oil if you're going to carryover metal from the old oil.

(As I have said, one piece of metal makes 10, make 100, make 1000, makes 100,000 make it fail. 80% of wear is erosion from metal debris being carried by the oil flow across load bearing surfaces damaging your machine) no mater who's oil you use, it won't change this.


Cheers

Steve

[blueoval]

BillC - I too have just switched to Nulon Full Synth http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php...ing_Engine_Oil

I did a Nulon engine flush treatment prior, and have noticed with this oil on a performance setup like mine, it has quietened the lifter noise more so that anything I have used previous. I think going back to a 10w/40 as opposed to a 20w/50 previously has certainly helped. I should have just used the right oil from the start.

But now I reckon Nulon is the way to go for me along with a engine flush treatment every time.

[Erich]

so with the Nulon flush - you are just adding that to the old oil?

[AUbigfoot]

Originally Posted by BillC

Just an update, I am so surprised how much different my Ute is going now. I am not sure if it was the engin flush or the Nulon synthetic oil or the Nulon additive but the care is running so much smoother and I can feel the difference in power.

I think I will do the same to my XR8. Its done 120,000. Is it worth doing the flush ?

What is the benefit of an additive as well as changing the oil? Sorry if it's a silly question but I'm new to this business!

[bodes-sh]

Originally Posted by GK

Yep!

I tried Penrite HPR 10 Gas. That worked well. I've also given Pennzoil a very good run. That also worked well, but now my SuperCheap don't stock it.

I've decided to give the Shell Gas 15W/40 a run, as the Penrite was a little expensive, and I change the oil at 5,000 kay intervals.

GK

i've been using the Shell LPG oil too, last change probably went a bit over 5000km, maybe 7 or 8, haha, but the oil still looked reasonable when it came out. i have been using that for about the last 4 changes, and seems to be going well so far

[bodes-sh]

Originally Posted by Kensbigfoot

What is the benefit of an additive as well as changing the oil? Sorry if it's a silly question but I'm new to this business!

the additives help stabilise the oil, much like a friction modifier in lsd diff oil. there are a few companies that make additives, but it basically stops the oil from breaking down so much under high load / engine temps. if you have a look at the nulon site, it should tell you about it

[GK]

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

i've been using the Shell LPG oil too, last change probably went a bit over 5000km, maybe 7 or 8, haha, but the oil still looked reasonable when it came out. i have been using that for about the last 4 changes, and seems to be going well so far

How does the Shell go for timing chain rattle?

GK

[Mainlube]

Originally Posted by Erich

so with the Nulon flush - you are just adding that to the old oil?

If you're going to use any flushing additive to assist with flushing any machine (motor gearbox and diff etc) to assist with dissolving sludges you should use this additive with new (cheap) oil or you will increase the "carryover' of debris into the new oil many times.



A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long. (or longer)


Cheers

Steve

[bodes-sh]

Originally Posted by GK

How does the Shell go for timing chain rattle?

GK

i haven't had any issues with mine at all. i do have a tensioner that isn't the best tho, squeaks a bit when its cold. but idling with the engine warm it is very quiet..

does yours have a rattle?

[Mainlube]

With 2 of the largest car forums using large amounts of flushing additives I thought I better check out what you're all using and unfortunately I didn't like what I found.

The Nulon flushing additive is 30 to 60% Kero :

Kero is a no-go in your oil.

See the msds

http://www.nulon.com.au/files/msds/M..._Oil_Flush.pdf

Not having a go at Nulon, I guess if we check most these shelf products they would be similar.

The Mainlube flushing oil is the go (no solvents) however, a little $$$ so depends on your budget.

(When I say use a cheap supermarket oil with a flushing additive, around a 20w30 (not too thick) and it must carry at least a SJ, SL spec, that would be fine for 30 minutes with no load.)

Mainlube can make a flushing additive concentrate (with the same non solvent, non flammable safe detergents as my Mainlube 245 Flushing Oil) however, my biggest problem is distribution, we're not geared up to send out large amounts of small items, its too hard, courier is my only easy way and in most cases would double the product cost.

This would be added to an oil like I've described above, then you could all flush every time you change oil, big benefits. (motor gearbox diff)

Repco or some one would be good, but again, it takes allot to get these guys to stock your product, we need it available off the shelf somewhere in each city / area??

That's the problem.

Let me work on that.

Mean while, I'll formulate a 500 mil to the 5 litres Flushing additive (in a basic industrial no flowers packaging) and get it ready for use.

If your engine holds 6 or 7 litres 5 is fine for flushing.

Maybe some of the tuning shops will wish to stock it.

Cheers

Steve

[blueoval]

Hi Steve,

Thanks for that added research into these products. Its good to know of such things that can harm engine parts etc.

Do you know much about the Liqui-Moly products? In particular their engine flush treatments?

Also what would be the average RRP on a bottle of your flush treatment to be sent to SA?

[prydey]

not sure on mainlube's opinion, but i don't believe in putting additives in your oil! friction modifiers, stabilisers etc.. call them what you will but half the time the ingredients in them are already in the oil. the other thing is oil company's spend a lot of time and money developing their products only for you to come along and add something else to it, without knowing what sort of reaction this might have.

also i don't believe in judging an oil on the colour it comes out. just because it comes out still looking fairly clean doesn't mean its good just like if it comes out dirty doesn't mean its bad. modern oils have many ingredients in them some of which are cleaning agents.

for the record i've used shell helix ultra (5/40) for as long as i can remember. it may not be the best oil around but it gives me no grief and performs well. one thing i always tell people when discussing oil is to choose a good product and then stick with it.

one thing i've noticed with the last 3 or so cars i've owned is that the mileage over a long period (12months+) seems to improve by 30km or so to a tank. i run helix ultra and bp ultimate exclusively with no modifications to the engine so something is working right it tells me. i don't use these products for the purpose of saving fuel but its just an observation. it may be totally coincidental.

[Mainlube]

Originally Posted by prydey

not sure on mainlube's opinion, but i don't believe in putting additives in your oil! friction modifiers, stabilisers etc.. call them what you will but half the time the ingredients in them are already in the oil. the other thing is oil company's spend a lot of time and money developing their products only for you to come along and add something else to it, without knowing what sort of reaction this might have.

also i don't believe in judging an oil on the colour it comes out. just because it comes out still looking fairly clean doesn't mean its good just like if it comes out dirty doesn't mean its bad. modern oils have many ingredients in them some of which are cleaning agents.

for the record I've used shell helix ultra (5/40) for as long as i can remember. it may not be the best oil around but it gives me no grief and performs well. one thing i always tell people when discussing oil is to choose a good product and then stick with it.

one thing i've noticed with the last 3 or so cars i've owned is that the mileage over a long period (12months+) seems to improve by 30km or so to a tank. i run helix ultra and bp ultimate exclusively with no modifications to the engine so something is working right it tells me. i don't use these products for the purpose of saving fuel but its just an observation. it may be totally coincidental.

prydey

We are referring to draining your oil, putting a cheap 20w30 oil in, adding a safe powerful flushing additive in the clean cheap oil to assist with cleaning your engine between changes, flushing your engine to clean it.

I agree its not a good idea to go dumping all sorts of "off the shelf" additives in your new engine oil you're going to run your car on. (allot of these can shock you with whats in them as well)

Do be aware on one thing with engine oil specs, they are the minimum requirement, the lowest the spec is allowed to be for that designation like SM.

Its like a high jump, if you clear the bar by 2 metres, you only break the record for what the bar is set at, not how high you cleared it by.

You can easily build a spec higher, there is just no designation for it to document what it is.

They are all built to a budget, just throw a bucket of money at it, that'll bring an oils spec up.

Cheers

Steve

[prydey]

Originally Posted by Mainlube

prydey

We are referring to draining your oil, putting a cheap 20w30 oil in, adding a safe powerful flushing additive in the clean cheap oil to assist with cleaning your engine between changes, flushing your engine to clean it.

directly above my post, yes, but earlier in the thread there was reference to running an additive with the oil.

[Mainlube]

Originally Posted by blueoval

Hi Steve,

Thanks for that added research into these products. Its good to know of such things that can harm engine parts etc.

Do you know much about the Liqui-Moly products? In particular their engine flush treatments?

Also what would be the average RRP on a bottle of your flush treatment to be sent to SA?

blueoval

With the Liqui-Moly (I guess we're still talking about engine flushes as you've mentioned) don't know jack about their products, quick way to get some indication is check out the MSDS.

Courier to Adelaide would be about $15 however, filling small products and sending in all directions in singles is not profitable, too time consuming for an export supplier, we're not set up for this.

Would be better if we can get a forum sponsor or someone like Autobarn to stock, then we can send out multiples at the same time and keep the cost down.

To market through retail outlets (which we've never done being industrial) we would need to make it look a little pretty and go with a 1 litre tin (we have a pretty one of them

It's worth us looking into as we do have a very good safe product for this.

Leave this with me and we'll see what we can come up with.

Cheers

Steve