synthetic oils - Page 3

**ebxr8240** · 21-05-2012, 08:05 PM

Trust me synthetic oils run MUCH cleaner than Dino oils..
I've pulled down 1000's of imported U.S V8's..
Some engines you couldn't see the valve gear when taking rocker covers off..
Yes that as much an oil change issue too...

It's a bit like eating Mcdonalds or Steakhouse food... One is cheaper.. BUT ?? !!!

TC200six · 21-05-2012, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupic

Is it too late using a semi/synthetic grade oil with a BA XR6 04 with 166k's.
Its not as tight as it use to be and would like more protection as its a long term for me. From new I try to change every 6mths regardless of k's unless it more than 15k.Now with travel to the big smoke I want extra protection so its a good grade mineral oil or semi/synthetic oil

cheers

There's no such thing as being too late to run synthetic or a synthetic blend, especially in a car like yours. As long as you are willing to pay extra for oil, then go for it. If you maintain your oil change intervals at 5000km or 6 months, (which ever comes first), the engine most likely would out-last the car itself.

Fiesta_Man69 · 21-05-2012, 10:51 PM

More important than semi or full synth is the frequency with which you change your oil... Every 5K if you're hardcore (or have a built engine). This ensures longevity of an engine more than anything else.

TMC · 22-05-2012, 01:18 AM

On LPG the oil doesn't dirty up at all compared to petrol. I change mine at 10000km but use the best oil I can get (and believe in). I don't drive my cars hard though.

prydey · 22-05-2012, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TC200six

There's no such thing as being too late to run synthetic or a synthetic blend,

not sure if thats entirely true. i was once told that synthetics have much better cleaning properties, and if you start using them in a engine with a few km on board, they could start cleaning out all the carbon build up that is actually helping to seal in places. not sure how much merit is in the story.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMC

On LPG the oil doesn't dirty up at all compared to petrol. I change mine at 10000km but use the best oil I can get (and believe in). I don't drive my cars hard though.

this is why colour isn't really able to be used as an indicator of how well your oil is travelling.

castellan · 23-05-2012, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnz

unbeleivable, you'll learn the hard way!

Oil has to be under pressure from the oil pump ? is that so...

My engines mains have no oil pressure from the oil pump and nor does the cam and it's a OHC and it does 11000 RPM and i have been into it for 3 years now. it has pressure to the big end and that feeds to splash under the piston.
But like i said oil does not need pressure to work, as that is another subject.
Oil is oil and pressure is just pressure.

pottery beige · 23-05-2012, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by castellan

Oil has to be under pressure from the oil pump ? is that so...

My engines mains have no oil pressure from the oil pump and nor does the cam and it's a OHC and it does 11000 RPM and i have been into it for 3 years now. it has pressure to the big end and that feeds to splash under the piston.
But like i said oil does not need pressure to work, as that is another subject.
Oil is oil and pressure is just pressure.

how does oil get to your big ends... levitation....

**ebxr8240** · 23-05-2012, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by castellan

Oil has to be under pressure from the oil pump ? is that so...

My engines mains have no oil pressure from the oil pump and nor does the cam and it's a OHC and it does 11000 RPM and i have been into it for 3 years now. it has pressure to the big end and that feeds to splash under the piston.
So it has oil pressure..
But like i said oil does not need pressure to work, as that is another subject.
Oil is oil and pressure is just pressure.

Oil pressure is a restriction of flow..
Your way out of your league here!!!
What OHC engine revs to 11000RPM ??

burnz · 23-05-2012, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by castellan

Oil has to be under pressure from the oil pump ? is that so...

My engines mains have no oil pressure from the oil pump and nor does the cam and it's a OHC and it does 11000 RPM and i have been into it for 3 years now. it has pressure to the big end and that feeds to splash under the piston.
But like i said oil does not need pressure to work, as that is another subject.
Oil is oil and pressure is just pressure.

save some horsepower remove the oil pump you dont need it..

clearly your driving a 1932 rolls royce, the only engine in the world to use the splash system with spectacular failure.

**ebxr8240** · 24-05-2012, 06:54 PM

Early Briggs and Straton lawn mower engines are splash feed.. Along with Chev engines before the Blue flame 6 cylinder which work well at low rpm..
There are no modern engines using this oil lube system...
http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven...um=3&modNum=13

Pis-ton broke · 24-05-2012, 07:09 PM

i change my oil and filter every 10,000. The old oil is still clean, just has a little darker colour to it. engine is 200,000kms on it. I use moblie 2000 its semi synthic. cooper filters.

the oil splash system is still used today isn,t it? as it helps lower cylinder lubrication, is my understanding.

burnz · 24-05-2012, 07:20 PM

lawn mowers still, brigg/stratton, honda, howard.

burnz · 24-05-2012, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebxr8240

Early Briggs and Straton lawn mower engines are splash feed.. Along with Chev engines before the Blue flame 6 cylinder which work well at low rpm..
There are no modern engines using this oil lube system...
http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven...um=3&modNum=13

yes those engine were limited to 2500 rpm, but all regularly failed due road incline.

the system ok in level staionary units.

lawn mowers have a limit of 20* angle off horizontal plane.

**ebxr8240** · 24-05-2012, 08:02 PM

Twin cam heads are pressure fed or at least have oil galleries feeding critical parts..Some early twin cam engines such as Nissan , Subaru had issues when not serviced .. The galleries would choke up and valve gear would fail...
The new Subaru's, Nissan's have larger oil galleries now..
Some sliding parts are lubricated by the oil mist that flows through engine..
Hardly splash fed the way engines where done with crank scrappers picking up the oil.. Besides there's issues when oil level drops and the level engine operated on.. Honda's etc these days have an oil pump in them feeding the crank...

burnz · 24-05-2012, 08:16 PM

my honda (hr194) lunched it self when mowing a slope in the front yard, slinger fed setup.

no info in the book but online honda states 25* slope max.

**ebxr8240** · 24-05-2012, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnz

my honda (hr194) lunched it self when mowing a slope in the front yard, slinger fed setup.

no info in the book but online Honda states 25* slope max.

YEP that's why I say slinger type oiling is old tech..
Yes o/k on stationary engines..just !!!
On OLD boat engines were oiled by hand with open crankcase...
VERY low rpm and long stroke.. Lubed be a guy with oil can..Sheesh !!

TMC · 24-05-2012, 10:23 PM

I can't believe I'm reading about splash lubrication here, on a Ford forum in 2012. Maybe this is the Fordson 1922 forum.

Olbucko · 25-05-2012, 12:48 PM

Older 2 strokes were lubricated by oil mixed with the petrol that circulated around the crankcase, and some of them seemed to go for ever.

RASER · 25-05-2012, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnz

lawn mowers still, brigg/stratton, honda, howard.

Howard don't make engines

Briggs&Stratton and Honda recommended there own oil, SAE30, and SAE10W/30 respectively

I am in the oil field, communicate with them all the time

RASER · 25-05-2012, 01:27 PM

"erwgbwer

burnz · 25-05-2012, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RASER

Howard don't make engines

Briggs&Stratton and Honda recommended there own oil, SAE30, and SAE10W/30 respectively

I am in the oil field, communicate with them all the time

i have a howard rotory hoe, peizo spark start points run.
would be an early 50's unit, at my sisters place for a lawn ornament.
possably run if i could find/make a carby for it.

Pis-ton broke · 25-05-2012, 05:02 PM

i have a 6' howard slasher

XR_6falcon · 25-05-2012, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

not sure if thats entirely true. i was once told that synthetics have much better cleaning properties, and if you start using them in a engine with a few km on board, they could start cleaning out all the carbon build up that is actually helping to seal in places. not sure how much merit is in the story.

I started using fully synthetic oil in my au with about 140 odd on the clock and it actually stopped my timing case leak so make of it what you will.

TMC · 25-05-2012, 07:21 PM

Synthetic oil in my XF stopped a large timing chain slap. Well it appears to have for now.

castellan · 26-05-2012, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pottery beige

how does oil get to your big ends... levitation....

Pressure from the oil pump as i just said to the big ends but the mains are not it's a 450cc dirt bike.
Mains are bathed in oil and the timing chain feeds the top end.
So you know that pressure is only one thing and the oil does the work as oil pump pressure is only pressure feeding to where it has to be for a reason and that's all.
So if it needs pressure it has to do with why it needs it, oil is oil.

Olbucko · 26-05-2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMC

Synthetic oil in my XF stopped a large timing chain slap. Well it appears to have for now.

The timing chain in my XE was still good after 330,000 km on synthetic oil. normally with ordinary oil and a bit of neglect they were lucky to last even 100,000 km.

Rfordsfun · 29-05-2014, 10:44 PM

Hi all, I'm running nulon semi 10 30, in 2001 xr6 engine about 70k km on clock. Nulon have a full syn 10 40 thinking of using? As about to replace lifters, and getting the tick ford tick! On inlet 1 or 2. Any input welcome! Probs bite the bullet next week, also nason or dynotec lifters? Cheers.

_Ben · 29-05-2014, 10:54 PM

Old thread, nice bump :P
You shouldn't have any issues with it, I run my BA on 5w-30 full synth with nearly 150 ks, other people run 15w-40 (I personally wouldn't).

Bushbasher · 29-05-2014, 11:02 PM

switch to Penrite HPR 10W-50 and your tick will probably go away.

Our wagon has 350k on it now and I've tried Nulon and Valvoline and Mobil but I always came back to Penrite and have stuck with it now for the last 150k and the motor is still happy as with no ticks.

Franco Cozzo · 29-05-2014, 11:59 PM

Whats the consensus on Penrite Racing 5W-30 fully synthetic for a road car? I used it in the WS Fiesta which used to run Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 and it stopped lifter tick on cold startup which would occur until the engine was up to operating temp.

Car is serviced by me every 10,000km.