FORD technical service bulletin : ICC touch screen display

[raceteam]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

FYI: Some don't seem to happen at all if the instrument cluster isn't turned on.

The cluster works as a gateway between buses.

[JasonACT]

Originally Posted by XRPete

If you would like me to send my old one, PM me and we can arrange something. but ill probably keep it for a few weeks, just in case something happens with the second hand one i just bought.

Thanks Peter, yeah, it's important you have a backup. I'm more interested in someone with an exchanged unit, to take photos of the boards (for a small fee ~ $20) to locate the problem quickly. But if you don't have any luck and give up on the boards, I'm more than happy to pay you something for it.

It would be fairly easy to replace that whole 9v / ?v (dimmed) LED Driver part with a custom mod (9v regulator, Arduino & MOSFET - PWM driven with a new plug for the red/black wires). So one way or another, I reckon it will live again.

I'm going to try to link pins 1 & 5 on the large board today - to see if it'll power up without the small board plugged in.. With them sandwiched, it's hard to take any readings while it's on.

[JasonACT]

I had no luck getting the LCD board to fire up without the smaller board connected - so I put it on hold until we know if the MOSFET fixes things.

Back to my little ICC projects this weekend though... The new radio unit I have is from G6E and complains about not being able to talk to the AMP. I checked out my wiring:



Nope, no AMP connectors are present - so there will be no wires for one elsewhere in my car :(

I found one on ebay for $30 though, so I prepared my new unit:







AMP connections, and medium speed CAN BUS available when I need it by pulling out the tissue box holder! I didn't bother to expose the AMP's shield wire, I'll sort something out later if there's any issue.

I noticed the AMP uses its own 20A fuse, which I also don't have, but I think I'll just wire it into the cigar plug - which is also 20A. The only thing I ever had connected to that was my GPS - which is now in the centre console box for use when the maps in the ICC are out of date for the route I enter (shouldn't happen too often).

[raceteam]

Perhaps try loading the asbuilt config from your old ACM to the new - there will be a subwoofer config in there somewhere that it is complaining about.

[JasonACT]

It's only in Forscan that I can see it complain. I've got a 8" sub-woofer on order too! I want this thing working! I've also bought 2 pairs of JL's C2 600X speakers, not sure if they will fit in the back? There's a how-to that shows they work in the front. I chickened out though, I don't want to gut my original speakers for the housing (they are going in storage). I've ordered 3rd party speaker mounts - but that's getting a bit off topic and has all been done before.

Except to say, I like having no FG radio hiss!

[XRPete]

damn, just realised I can’t select my reverse camera, since I put in this second hand display ☹️ Strange thing is that sonar still works, just doesn’t give me the selection buttons to select sonar/camera.

Isn’t the reverse camera connection part of the main loom connector to the icc or did I forgot to plug something in?

[JasonACT]

It's an option you can turn on when you get the ELM327 device & the two month Forscan license.

[XRPete]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

It's an option you can turn on when you get the ELM327 device & the two month Forscan license.

Ahhh! Cheers Jason, I got my elm327 on order, should be here in the next coming week. I haven’t had a chance to purchase a license yet, it’s on my to do list for tomorrow, along with getting a new mosfet.

I might also change SMD capacitor C186 that’s closest to the mosfet as well, because when I test it the yesterday, it seemed dead.

[JasonACT]

BTW: I didn't "buy" a Forscan license, I just registered on their forum and used their "generate key" forum page (along with typing in the code on the portable PC machine I want to use it on) for a free trial. It gives you a Windows registry file to download that you can double click to load the contents, and the next time you start up - it's fully enabled for two months.

Can't hurt to replace the cap either. C186 looks to be one of the large ones, so not too much trouble.

[XRPete]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

BTW: I didn't "buy" a Forscan license, I just registered on their forum and used their "generate key" forum page (along with typing in the code on the portable PC machine I want to use it on) for a free trial. It gives you a Windows registry file to download that you can double click to load the contents, and the next time you start up - it's fully enabled for two months.

Can't hurt to replace the cap either. C186 looks to be one of the large ones, so not too much trouble.

Cool, even better. i can save some cash there .
yeah i thought the same about the cap too, from what i can tell its a 150uf 16v cap right?

[JasonACT]

Yep

[JasonACT]

Just documenting the FG MK2 Subwoofer & AMP...

So I had exposed the Premium ACM's Subwoofer AMP pins for use later:



I had searched ebay for an AMP, I made sure it came from an FG2.. I had also started documenting the FG2 ICC schematics - which are identical to the FG(1) so I was confident.. until I got this:



My first thought was, hmm - there's more pins in C-66 (here) than I expected! I double checked the service manuals - nope, there's nothing like this connector. I searched the Internet, no mention about the FG2 using a different unit. I rechecked ebay, a few different sellers have this unit for sale saying it's from a MK2.

The part number of a FG's AMP is 8R29-18T805-AA but mine is BR29-18T805-AA. The FG also has many more markings - A Sanyo Automedia model. Mine has no other details - so I opened it. It said E8 SONAVOX 2011-DEC-REV 1.2

I traced the pins to various areas of the circuit, worked out the main things pretty quickly (power, speaker, audio-input) but two pins were a bit different. I had guessed incorrectly initially and got a bunch of codes in Forscan, but retried with it as follows and got it working. C-66 as I've drawn up top is from an FG - my paper note sitting on top is what I have connected now:



(The +5v Turn-On note is just something I had tried on the bench, and it powered up and I got sound.)

I assume positive/negative (speaker output and audio input) is "+ to -" (left to right) and "+ to -" top to bottom. Happy for that to be confirmed though

Edit: Oh, and it pretty much needs constant +12v power (not from the Cigar socket on accessories) otherwise you may get Forscan codes saying it's lost connection to the AMP.

[JasonACT]

I spent quite a few evenings this week installing new speakers.

On Tuesday I did the 4 door speakers. I can't believe how "light weight" the OEM speakers are. Total rubbish, hardly worth keeping them in storage, they are never going back in the car. After my modification to the ICC to reduce the hiss (and max volume) these JL C2 600X required big equaliser adjustments to get a good amount of quality sound - pumped up the bass and mid-range, drop down high-range (I've got 6 tweeters now after all). These speakers really could use a more powerful AMP.

On Wednesday, I spent the evening decoding the FG2 AMP module's plug (documented above). I wired up things and connected it to the car (just in the passenger seat well). I only bought a very cheap 8" subwoofer speaker (more on that below) and it was sort of distorting, unless I held it steady - I would have to install it properly to really test it out. It sounded pretty good though and I had to use the equaliser again to now reduce the bass (only mid-range is higher now - bass and high-range are at 0 level).

On Thursday, I pulled the back parcel trim off, removed the padding they have that covers the subwoofer speaker hole on lower models and tried for a long time to get the speaker to be screwed in! Did I say very cheap 8" subwoofer speaker? Well, the screw holes on this cheap unit didn't quite meet up with the screw holes in the shelf, they are in the right place sort of, but this speaker is just a bit small. Out with the metal snips to remove the screw hole outer loop and it was in. I had decided to mount the AMP under the passenger seat (which would now be on Friday) so I sent the speaker wire through the car under all the plastic trims along the foot wells.

I have to say, I was worried that I didn't modify the subwoofer output like I did the 4 speakers to remove the hiss (for one there may be hiss in the sub and two, that the sub would be mismatched in volume). Nope. This premium sound AMP is pretty weak really - so it matches my modification quite well. Actually, the sound system is now really sounding good and can go as loud as I would ever want.

On Friday, I pulled out the passenger seat, cleaned up the carpet underneath, yuck, went looking for a good grounding point.. couldn't find one that worked. Tried the seat bolts, nope. Tried the ICC bolts (4 at the bottom, 2 of which look like a great connection) this didn't work either, the AMP just didn't like any of the car-body points I tried. I ended up using the cigar lighter socket ground. Then I used 2 mat holders (the type with a L shape pin you insert into the carpet) to hold a MDF board with the AMP screwed into it in place.

I'm actually really happy with the sound it produces now, the only thing I don't like is when one MP3 stops and another starts there is a slight crackle. I'm sure it was there before too, but I'm not sure if because I have the volume up more, to counter the hiss fix, that it is now more noticeable? Little things though.

Anyway, to stay on topic, I spent today documenting the FDIM's components:

Large Board

U100 LTDXS LT3972 - 3.5A Step-Down Switching Regulator
U102 ST GN LF33 - 3.3v Regulator (takes +5.0v input here)
U103 MAX1694 - USB Current Limited Switches with Fault Blanking
U104 LTUE LT1947EMS - Linear Technology Adjustable Output TFT-LCD Triple Switching Regulator
U106 LT3517 - Full-Featured LED Driver with 1.5A Switch Current

U200 MCIMX31LCVMN4D - SoC Multimedia Applications Processors For Industrial And Automotive Products
U202 Micron-MT29F1G08ABADAWP-IT_D - 1Gb Flash (128MB)
U202 Micron-MT29F4G16ABBDAH4-IT_D - 4Gb Flash (512MB SAT NAV Version)
U204/U205 H5MS1G62MFP-J3M - 1Gb DDR SDRAM (128MB) * 2 = 256MB Total RAM
U206 LTSR LTC3545EUD#PBF LCSR QFN16 Triple 800mA Regulator
U208 MAXIM 6894E - Volt Supervisor Sequencer 28-Pin TQFN EP

U400 USB83340 - Automotive USB Transceiver
U402 V25 02 02 X331 - ? 8 Pin
U405 WT245 SN74AVC4T245 - Two Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver (3-State)
U408 PCA9517A - Level Translating I2C-bus Repeater - NXP

U410 TJA1042 NXP High-Speed CAN Transceiver

U600/U601/U602 WE245 SN74AVC8T245PWR - 8 Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver (3-State)
U603 V74 05 02 X202 - ? 8 Pin
U605 TSC2007 - Very low power Touch Screen

U800 V25 02 02 X331 - ? 8 Pin
U801 LMV824-N Quad low voltage, RRO, 5 MHz op amps
U802 wm8580a - Multi Channel Audio Codec
U803 LMV822-N Dual low voltage, RRO, 5 MHz op amps

U900 bc57g687cau - Bluetooth
U901 2162 QFN20 MFI341S2162 - IC-BUS Driver

U1000 TVP5150AM1 - Ultralow-Power NTSC/PAL/SECAM Video Decoder (to 8-bit ITU-R BT.656 format)
U1001 WE245 SN74AVC8T245PWR - 8 Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver (3-State)
U1002 WT245 SN74AVC4T245 - Two Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver (3-State)
U1003 PCA9517A - Level Translating I2C-bus Repeater - NXP

Small Board

Q170 SQD15N06-42L - Automotive N-Channel 60V (D-S) 175c MOSFET (15Amps)
U170 AOE - ? 8 Pin
U171 LE80CD-TR - 8.0v Regulator (100mA)
U175 29152 - Voltage Regulator

U1300 3793-7 - Voltage monitor with watchdog Timer
U1301 F3614M2 1201KE400 (A) SGP - Programmable Microcontroller
U1302 ISL12022MIBZ-T – Real Time Clock (RTC) IC Clock/Calendar 128B I²C, 2-Wire Serial 20-SOIC
U1303 ATMLP140 08B 2 1G1354B - ? 8 Pin

[JasonACT]

Well, it looks like I'll be wiring up 100 connections (2 x 50) for testing out components in the sandwiched boards:



Got these on order, no stock of the 50 pin male, so will have to cut up a couple of smaller ones:

[JasonACT]

Because I know everyone likes pictures:











Phew.

[JasonACT]

Measurements:



U100



U102



U104



U106

[raceteam]

I'm enjoying watching the progress you're making - keep it up!

[JasonACT]

So... Now I've got an honest to goodness blank screen thanks to a forum member.

I started by attempting to power up the unit. No go. But I tested the smaller board's components and to my surprise, everything checked out ok. So I plugged it into my larger board:



What! Dual climate and Territory profile loaded! Well, I knew it was from a Terry.

Doesn't seem to be any differences between mine (top) and the donor one, except mine wasn't passed by Mr.B:



But it must contain the EEPROM containing the type of car and other settings.

Plug my smaller board back in and power it up:



Ah, back to normal.



Time to pull the larger board out:



First pass at testing any differences, red values are my working board and yellow values are the non-working board (this is the back-light circuit, the first thing noticeable as not working):



Ok, they look very different - however, when I power mine down into sleep mode, all these values end up being the same as the yellow ones. It looks like something is preventing the broken board from powering up (maybe U208 MAXIM 6894E - Volt Supervisor Sequencer - which will be next to check, another day though).

But I plugged in a 9v battery to the screen back-light... White screen. No lines. I powered down the unit and restarted it, very slight lines, but they went away very quickly - back to plain white screen.

Tested out all the other regulators I listed above - they all checked out ok.

Tested the tri-regulator (800mA) I hadn't tested before and I got A: 3.14v bad, 3.34v good, B: 1.54v bad, 1.75v good, C: 1.98v bad, 2.20v good - then powered down the good LCD and it read all the same lower voltages as the bad one!

I have looked for the 21v power source (there's one on the smaller board, but I can't see it being passed to the larger board) but am yet to find it on the larger board. I also tested out the LCD bias generator - it seems to get all the right voltages coming in but reads all the same voltages as my unit in sleep mode too.

Anyhoo, that's enough for tonight!

[JasonACT]

Not much to report tonight, the boss gave me his laptop to fix :(

I checked out U208 and it's working as expected:



Red values are my working FDIM, black values are the broken one (showing the usual ~0.2v drop while sleeping). Brown values are the regulator outputs that are going through "voltage dividers" to make them work with the chip... 5 x TH inputs are all grounded - so it's simply testing for 0.6v on the 4 test-voltage INputs. Both powered up and sleeping it's within spec. and the PG & !Reset outputs are correct. The watch-dog function isn't being used - it's triggered in both the working and non-working FDIMs.

I find it weird though, the 3 watch-dog pins all have traces - so they are connected to something - but both FDIMs are doing the same thing here.

[JasonACT]

I'm going to just put this advice out there: When changing a battery or jump starting another car (don't do that, unless it's impossible to avoid)...

Disconnect anything you have plugged into the USB port in the centre console.

I'm still looking, and some of these soldered pins are really small - so are hard to test, but I think I've found a difference between the 2 test boards I have, and it appears to be in the USB area. In fact, I'd go as far as suggesting - don't ever use that port to charge anything. Light weight USB memory sticks only.

(This advice will possibly just be one of those things people repeat, but I don't think it's bad advice. Can anyone with a broken screen confirm they had nothing at all plugged in? I always have a 32GB stick in there.)

[raceteam]

Anything plugged into that port charges pretty slow - probably only supplies 500 mA.

[XRPete]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

I'm going to just put this advice out there: When changing a battery or jump starting another car (don't do that, unless it's impossible to avoid)...

Disconnect anything you have plugged into the USB port in the centre console.

I'm still looking, and some of these soldered pins are really small - so are hard to test, but I think I've found a difference between the 2 test boards I have, and it appears to be in the USB area. In fact, I'd go as far as suggesting - don't ever use that port to charge anything. Light weight USB memory sticks only.

(This advice will possibly just be one of those things people repeat, but I don't think it's bad advice. Can anyone with a broken screen confirm they had nothing at all plugged in? I always have a 32GB stick in there.)

Hi JasonACT,


I didn't have anything plugged into my USB port at the time when mine died.

I actually stopped using it after 2-3 uses, as it charged terribly and had connectivity issues with my iPhone 7+ <=(could of been an app problem though, as i use Youtube Music, not spotify etc). but nothing connected at start up of the car.


i do remember however, that before my screen died, a month-ish prior to that. my screen did turn off temporary and came back on that same day.


Could it possible that using the USB port when something is connected, can deteriorate the FDIM slowly? like slowly burning out tracks?

[JasonACT]

I've had the USB stick connected for almost 7 years (I bought it for the car) so probably not a slow thing. Just an extra load on the components though, where in fringe circumstances it's probably best not to have it.

It's possible the broken unit I have just had a "bad USB day" one time, the difference I see is to the port itself and I've got nothing connected on either boards on the workbench so it shouldn't make a difference.

I'm still checking components, I think I've done all the resistors now - every one of them is the same resistance on both boards.

I'm going to have to get my logic analyser out and start recording power-up details of the various chips which have pins exposed. There's also microSD tracks on the circuit board (no actual socket though) but I'll plug that into the analyser to see if both units attempt to read SD cards.

[raceteam]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

There's also microSD tracks on the circuit board (no actual socket though) but I'll plug that into the analyser to see if both units attempt to read SD cards.

Interesting.

[JasonACT]

From reading the WindowCE stuff for this SoC/CPU, you can boot off an SD card. Not sure about USB? There were things to configure to alter the boot method on the chip though.

[raceteam]

Have either of the FDIMs you have got the GPS navigation PCB as well? SD tracks may have been put in for that, then they switched to updating maps via USB.

[JasonACT]

Nah, my (3rd FDIM) GPS one is now in my car and some of the photos here are of it - no SD card socket - exactly the same as these two boards except the flash memory is much larger.

[raceteam]

I was more thinking that they designed it to have an SD card for maps (like the earlier FG and later Sync2) but changed the design or maps supplier at a later date but kept the board design to save redesign costs.

[JasonACT]

Quite possibly. Even quite likely. Is it known what map data they use? I thought the last update in 2015 needed a firmware update to read the [new] maps? Mine doesn't have that, it's got the 2nd last. I'll find out tomorrow if the ICC I bought late last week has the last version or not (I may have to pull the ICC out of my car again - in fact I probably will, since I'm sure I'll want to pick the nicest of the silver buttons to keep in my car - as I've got a whole other set now to pick from in this new ICC).

[raceteam]

At least one version was Naviextras / iGo I think.