Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

I absolutely loved this video from Sandro -



I wonder how many people are put off detailing altogether after using products like this. The need to make these products safe for all users is due to a need reduce a retailer's liability if something goes wrong. As a result, the cleaning ability is lacking.

Professional grade products get around that need and therefore end up being more effective under the assumption professionals will show appropriate caution. From my perspective, I guess using a pro product and it's more effective ability would limit exposure to the product, as in you wouldn't need to keep re-applying in an attempt to get a good result.

[DFB FGXR6]

Carpro Perl 101 – A Picture of Versatility.

Carpro Perl is one of those products everyone should have in their detailing arsenal. Perl is an Si02 enhanced water-based dressing for interior and exterior uses. Perl can be used to enhance the appearance of tires, rubber, plastics, vinyl and even leather. It will also provide an element of UV protection and is said to offer superior water repellence than other similar products. The finish of Perl is best described as matte to semi-gloss, depending on dilution ratio.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...l&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://store.primefinish.com.au/pro...13168972070965
https://vgautopaints.com.au/products...59ac55e5&_ss=r
https://www.ausprodetailing.com.au/p...-coating-500ml



For interior dressing, Perl is best diluted at 1:5 in a spray bottle using distilled water. This dilution will give a milky consistency for ease of application using a towel or applicator pad. If find it does need a follow up wipe after 15-20min to level it down. In most cases, you would use Perl on plastic surfaces, however it can also be used to dress leather/leather like trim. I would probably not use it for leather myself as it makes seats too slippery. Another interior use would be to refresh rubber floor mats, I would use this sparingly to avoid a slippery surface.



For unpainted exterior trims and wheel arch liners, Perl is best diluted to 1:3, again using distilled water to limit variability. Apply the product into a towel or applicator pad and work it in. Avoid spraying Perl directly onto the surface to reduce over-application or drips. Depending on weather conditions, you will get 2 – 6 weeks out of Perl when used on exterior surfaces.

Perl can also be used to dress your engine bay plastics. For this use, dilute at 1:1 to 1:3.



Perl’s best application though is as a tire dressing, and I think this is what most tend to use it for to be honest. Carpro recommend a 1:0 (Neat/Undiluted) or 1:1 for tires, myself, I prefer it undiluted straight from the bottle. Apply evenly to the tire with the aid of a brush or foam applicator pad. After 15-20min, you can wipe off any excess if desired. Undiluted and without a final wipe, Perl will be at it’s glossiest. Diluted and wiped, you will have a matte appearance. Because Perl is water based, it is unlikely to sling onto the bodywork. Another observation, I have found Perl to be one of the best dressings for Michelin PS4S’s.







A couple of product specific notes –

-Perl undiluted is far too thick to be dispensed through a sprayer. If you want to use Perl like this, I would add a pop-top lid to make dispensing simpler. (I repurposed an old Adams one)





-If you are dumb with maths like I am, finding something to make calculating dilutions is key. This website is very simple to use and will make your dilutions accurate.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

-Carpro Dilute bottles are a very easy way to mix up dilutions, available in 500 and 1000ml sizes. I have both but always end up using the smaller size. Simply fill the bottle with (distilled) water to the ratio line on the bottle, then fill the rest of the way with the product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...e&_ss=e&_v=1.0







-Unless you are a pro-detailer, the 500ml bottle will be more than enough for most people.

-A microfiber pad is the best way to apply Perl to interior or exterior trim. Have a towel on hand to knock it back if desired.

-For tires when diluted to 1:1, spray the product into the head of a detailing brush and work it in. When used neat, I prefer a foam applicator.







-For engine bays, most definitely dilute Perl to the 1:3 as it allows for a more natural finish. I also find that the runnier consistency can be distributed better here. I like to mist the various black plastic surfaces with the product, then use compressed air to distribute it into all of the grooves and crevices. Hold a towel in the other hand to shield excessive splash.









It actually took me a while to fully appreciate Carpro Perl. My first bottle took me a long time to use up, but it now gets regular use. Well worth having.

[hackney]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Carpro Perl 101 – A Picture of Versatility.

Carpro Perl is one of those products everyone should have in their detailing arsenal. Perl is an Si02 enhanced water-based dressing for interior and exterior uses. Perl can be used to enhance the appearance of tires, rubber, plastics, vinyl and even leather. It will also provide an element of UV protection and is said to offer superior water repellence than other similar products. The finish of Perl is best described as matte to semi-gloss, depending on dilution ratio.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...l&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://store.primefinish.com.au/pro...13168972070965
https://vgautopaints.com.au/products...59ac55e5&_ss=r
https://www.ausprodetailing.com.au/p...-coating-500ml

image

For interior dressing, Perl is best diluted at 1:5 in a spray bottle using distilled water. This dilution will give a milky consistency for ease of application using a towel or applicator pad. If find it does need a follow up wipe after 15-20min to level it down. In most cases, you would use Perl on plastic surfaces, however it can also be used to dress leather/leather like trim. I would probably not use it for leather myself as it makes seats too slippery. Another interior use would be to refresh rubber floor mats, I would use this sparingly to avoid a slippery surface.

image

For unpainted exterior trims and wheel arch liners, Perl is best diluted to 1:3, again using distilled water to limit variability. Apply the product into a towel or applicator pad and work it in. Avoid spraying Perl directly onto the surface to reduce over-application or drips. Depending on weather conditions, you will get 2 – 6 weeks out of Perl when used on exterior surfaces.

Perl can also be used to dress your engine bay plastics. For this use, dilute at 1:1 to 1:3.

image

Perl’s best application though is as a tire dressing, and I think this is what most tend to use it for to be honest. Carpro recommend a 1:0 (Neat/Undiluted) or 1:1 for tires, myself, I prefer it undiluted straight from the bottle. Apply evenly to the tire with the aid of a brush or foam applicator pad. After 15-20min, you can wipe off any excess if desired. Undiluted and without a final wipe, Perl will be at it’s glossiest. Diluted and wiped, you will have a matte appearance. Because Perl is water based, it is unlikely to sling onto the bodywork. Another observation, I have found Perl to be one of the best dressings for Michelin PS4S’s.

image

image

image

A couple of product specific notes –

-Perl undiluted is far too thick to be dispensed through a sprayer. If you want to use Perl like this, I would add a pop-top lid to make dispensing simpler. (I repurposed an old Adams one)

image

image

-If you are dumb with maths like I am, finding something to make calculating dilutions is key. This website is very simple to use and will make your dilutions accurate.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

-Carpro Dilute bottles are a very easy way to mix up dilutions, available in 500 and 1000ml sizes. I have both but always end up using the smaller size. Simply fill the bottle with (distilled) water to the ratio line on the bottle, then fill the rest of the way with the product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...e&_ss=e&_v=1.0

image

image

image

-Unless you are a pro-detailer, the 500ml bottle will be more than enough for most people.

-A microfiber pad is the best way to apply Perl to interior or exterior trim. Have a towel on hand to knock it back if desired.

-For tires when diluted to 1:1, spray the product into the head of a detailing brush and work it in. When used neat, I prefer a foam applicator.

image

image

image

-For engine bays, most definitely dilute Perl to the 1:3 as it allows for a more natural finish. I also find that the runnier consistency can be distributed better here. I like to mist the various black plastic surfaces with the product, then use compressed air to distribute it into all of the grooves and crevices. Hold a towel in the other hand to shield excessive splash.

image

image

image

image

It actually took me a while to fully appreciate Carpro Perl. My first bottle took me a long time to use up, but it now gets regular use. Well worth having.

I have been using Perl for a few years now, it is one of the best products for detailing engine bay plastics.Just a great product!

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Carpro Perl 101 – A Picture of Versatility.

Carpro Perl is one of those products everyone should have in their detailing arsenal. Perl is an Si02 enhanced water-based dressing for interior and exterior uses. Perl can be used to enhance the appearance of tires, rubber, plastics, vinyl and even leather. It will also provide an element of UV protection and is said to offer superior water repellence than other similar products. The finish of Perl is best described as matte to semi-gloss, depending on dilution ratio..

If you used distilled water instead of demineralised you can get it free if you have a condenser clothes dryer

[prydey]

I have carpro perl. I bought it for a tyre dressing but great to hear how versatile it is. I have one of those measuring spray bottles as well. I'll use that as a mixer and then tip it in to other spray bottles and label what dilution it is.

[hackney]

Originally Posted by prydey

I have carpro perl. I bought it for a tyre dressing but great to hear how versatile it is. I have one of those measuring spray bottles as well. I'll use that as a mixer and then tip it in to other spray bottles and label what dilution it is.

Give ‘Mirch’ tyre shine ago.Fantastic result.I picked up 5 litres @ half price on their website a week a go.

[FTE217]

Such great reviews DFB Thankyou.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

I have carpro perl. I bought it for a tyre dressing but great to hear how versatile it is. I have one of those measuring spray bottles as well. I'll use that as a mixer and then tip it in to other spray bottles and label what dilution it is.

Precisely what I do!

[DFB FGXR6]

Koch Chemie GS Green Star – A Versatile All Purpose Cleaner.



All Purpose Cleaners (APC) are a staple of any detailer’s arsenal. These cleaners are high alkaline chemicals used for heavy duty cleaning, and it’s that alkalinity that gives them their power. Up until recent years, I never had an APC in my cabinet. My introduction to these cleaners was via the consumer grade pre-mixed Meguiar’s Heavy Duty Multi-Purpose Cleaner, followed by Auto Finesse VERSO.





The Meguiar’s version was pretty forgettable, probably due to it being premixed for user friendliness. VERSO on the other hand is a dilutable product, allowing users to select a dilution that suits the task at hand. I would say VERSO was good, but not great.

Enter Koch Chemie GS Green Star –

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...39773378248863
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...39301148573751
https://carcareco.com.au/product/koc...se-cleaner-1l/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...n&_ss=e&_v=1.0



Firstly, a little run down on Koch Chemie product colour gradings. Each product category is assigned to a colour to help users understand when and where particular products are used or selected from. Koch will also print the product pH level on the bottle where required. In relation to Green Star, green represents an Alkaline chemical and it’s pH level is 12.5 (very high).





Like all APC’s, Green Star can be used to clean a variety of surfaces, including engines, wheels, tyres, glass, interior plastics, interior fabric, carpets and even workshop floors. Depending on application, GS can be diluted from 1:5 right out to 1:30, this is a product that shouldn’t be used undiluted. In use, Green Star can be left to dwell for a short period and will foam up under agitation. It’s scent is not especially pleasing, but hardly offensive.

Application and Dilutions –

-For interior cleaning, Koch recommend a 1:10 to 1:20 dilution. While GS can be used to clean fabric and carpet, I prefer to use Koch Chemie PO Pol Star as it’s a gentler cleaner on these materials. For stained, dirty or oily interior plastics, Green Star is a brilliant cleaner. You can also use it to clean dirty rubber mats.







-For exterior cleaning, Green Star can be used from 1:30 to 1:5 depending on cleaning power required. I have GS mixed at 1:8 for heavy duty jobs, say engine bay cleaning. You can use a strong dilution for cleaning wheels, tyres and wheel arches. It’s foaming ability makes it suitable for adding to a pH neutral soap to increase it’s cleaning power.









Application Notes –

-For interior cleaning, either apply directly to the surface, into a towel or brush and then agitate. Green Star will begin to foam as it dissolves and lifts grime. Then remove any residue with a clean, damp towel.

-For exterior cleaning, it’s best to rinse away any residue after use. Being heavily alkaline, you do not want this product to dry on any surface. Do not use on hot surfaces.

-When using in a foam cannon with a soap, likewise, be mindful of the product drying on the surface. Work quickly, do smaller sections at a time or wash in the shade to avoid possible chemical etching. On absolutely filthy vehicles, I have found adding Green Star to a soap really helps cut through an accumulation of grime.

-At stronger dilutions, be mindful that the alkalinity may reduce the life span of your sprayer heads. Try to choose alkaline chemical resistant sprayers.

-When diluting, you would preferably use distilled/demineralised water to avoid possible variables from tap water.



-I have used Green Star for cleaning very dirty floors. It even cleans dirty workbenches or even a lawn mower.

Koch Chemie Green Star is available in both 1000ml bottles or 10lt drums. At $24.95, a 1000ml bottle will go a long way once diluted. A great all-round product.

[fiestaz]

Thinking out loud I have 5 days off work coming up from Wednesday. After my little incident with clay bar I thought maybe it’s an opportunity to dabble in the world of paint correction. New to me but thought a good start would be one of these https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18...-only_p0249432

I already have a battery so would make sense to stay in the family. Based off reviews it’s seems to be a alright thing for a non pro provided you run it on full speed.
This paired with a compound of some sorts may bring the focus up to an acceptable level for me.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

Thinking out loud I have 5 days off work coming up from Wednesday. After my little incident with clay bar I thought maybe it’s an opportunity to dabble in the world of paint correction. New to me but thought a good start would be one of these https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18...-only_p0249432

I already have a battery so would make sense to stay in the family. Based off reviews it’s seems to be a alright thing for a non pro provided you run it on full speed.
This paired with a compound of some sorts may bring the focus up to an acceptable level for me.

That would be a good machine to learn on. The 125mm / 5 inch backing plate is a good universal size, allowing you to pick and choose from a decent variety of pads. I would remove the D-handle for improved ergonomics and allow you to hold the polisher in a more natural position, like below.



If you are going to do the whole car in one session, you will also need more pads than what is supplied, probably 3-4 of a cutting or finishing pad (depending on how much defect removal needed), this would allow you to continue polishing by swapping to fresh pads as you go.

Battery wise, you will either have to do it in steps or get an additional battery. At which point, if you are going to be buying more batteries, I would start looking at the below.

I know these are quite a bit more expensive, but these get you started in kit form -

Battery 5 inch with 15mm orbit and two batteries -
(I like this kit as it allows you to easily add the 3 inch machine later on if required)
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-15-5-full-kit

Electric 5inch with 12mm orbit and inspection light -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...kenow-handheld

Electric 5 inch 15mm orbit kit -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit

[fiestaz]

Well i did it, purchased the Ryobi.

I so wish i could afford to go for one of the Waxit kits, maybe one day.

i bought some masking tape to use on plastics and Using Mequiars Ultra Compound i got to work on the bonnet, slowly. Kept speed low and got a feel for it. I used the polish pad rather than the compound pad provided purely due to being cautious. Ramping the speed up and then adding some pressure really started to yield results.

I'd say its an 85% improvement in terms of swirls and scratches on the bonnet. I am more than happy with this. I will do the entire car over the next few days.

I didn't have the light behind me today to get a good photo unfortunately.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

Well i did it, purchased the Ryobi.

I so wish i could afford to go for one of the Waxit kits, maybe one day.

i bought some masking tape to use on plastics and Using Mequiars Ultra Compound i got to work on the bonnet, slowly. Kept speed low and got a feel for it. I used the polish pad rather than the compound pad provided purely due to being cautious. Ramping the speed up and then adding some pressure really started to yield results.

I'd say its an 85% improvement in terms of swirls and scratches on the bonnet. I am more than happy with this. I will do the entire car over the next few days.

I didn't have the light behind me today to get a good photo unfortunately.

Well done! That last 15% is a compromise between making it look "perfect" and not taking too much clearcoat in the process. It can be hard to know when to stop chasing. As long as you are happy with the result, that 15% is not worth the hassle.

[GTP534]

What a coincidence with the Car Craft video. I was in Bunnings last Friday to get some Drain Cleaner and on the shelves next to the Drano, Glitz, cleaning vinegar, etc, were those products he bought and tested. I was tempted but after watching his video glad I resisted!!

[CyberWasp]

I have been a slack a$s and have not used the Ryobi yet that I got a few pages ago.
Don't start a Kitchen Reno, it explodes into all the other rooms around. I am sick of painting.
I have to order in some more pads as DFB is suggesting to get started.
There are 3 cars to do all with very different requirements.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I have been a slack a$s and have not used the Ryobi yet that I got a few pages ago.
Don't start a Kitchen Reno, it explodes into all the other rooms around. I am sick of painting.
I have to order in some more pads as DFB is suggesting to get started.
There are 3 cars to do all with very different requirements.

So that you can get your head around what you need, this is the Shine Mate pad progression -

Green Foam Heavy Cut Pad - Ideal for extremely heavy cut without compromising finish on medium to hard paint finishes

Yellow Medium Cut Pad - Medium to Heavy cut while providing a high gloss finish, ideal on all paint systems

Blue Foam Intermediate Pad - Excels at moderate to light defect removal on all paint systems whilst finishing down to a fantastic level

Orange Universal Pad - Ideal for a variety of compounds on all paint types

Red Finishing Pad - Ideal for light defect removal and finishing on harder clear coats. Can be used as a medium cutting pad on softer clear coats.

Gray Foam Ultra Soft Pad - Ideal for final finishing and application of waxes and sealants.

Waxit sell a pad kit which includes 2 blue, 2 yellow and 2 red. Personally, I have not used the red pads, at that end of the scale, I go down to the black for use with wax and sealant application. The blue one I tend to use the most, it's not over the top for cutting ability but is able correct quite well. The yellow I have only used a couple of times.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ate-pad-refill

Which pad you choose will depend greatly on how much correction is needed, and the hardness of the paint. That's why you ideally want to have at least 4 of each chosen color, this allows you to do test spots to see which pad is suited, it also allows you to swap to clean pads as you move around the car. I would get at least 4 of both yellow and blue, perhaps the orange too.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ting-pad-4-6-7
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-cut-pad-4-6-7

Shine Mate offer flat and diamond pattern versions, I would probably stick to the diamond -

"The Black Diamond Pad technology reduces heat generation due to a lower surface area on the panel, it is also more balanced than traditional pad designs and reduces vibration, leading to a user-friendly safe polishing experience that produces consistent professional results."

[fiestaz]

Got some photos today... Progress still slow, but not trying to rush it.

Before



After


Im sticking with my 85% better figure. Can't wait to see it in the sun and completed. Sun is due to appear on Tuesday....

I think i will need to buy a new pad tomorrow to finish the car off, it seems to still be working fine but looking a little worse for wear.

Ryobi is going well. It does chew through the 4ah battery ive got, but again in no rush, if i really wanted to i could get the work Ryobi batteries out of the van and keep going.

Will be finished tomorrow on this stage. Then it will be Wax, Sealant and tidy up plastics/rubbers and glass. Then wait for no Rain and Sun to show it off

Edit: Looking through the interwebs, it may be a struggle to find a replacement pad...

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

Got some photos today... Progress still slow, but not trying to rush it.

Before
image


After
image

Im sticking with my 85% better figure. Can't wait to see it in the sun and completed. Sun is due to appear on Tuesday....

I think i will need to buy a new pad tomorrow to finish the car off, it seems to still be working fine but looking a little worse for wear.

Ryobi is going well. It does chew through the 4ah battery ive got, but again in no rush, if i really wanted to i could get the work Ryobi batteries out of the van and keep going.

Will be finished tomorrow on this stage. Then it will be Wax, Sealant and tidy up plastics/rubbers and glass. Then wait for no Rain and Sun to show it off

Edit: Looking through the interwebs, it may be a struggle to find a replacement pad...

Great work, certainly looks better than 85% to me.

You should be able to use any 5.5/6 inch pad to suit the 125mm backing plate. Keep in mind, the backing plate is considered a 5 inch, so you need a 5.5 or 6 inch pad to allow some overlay. The "hook and loop" is a fancy way of saying Velcro.

Any of the ones I liked above, although those will take a while to be delivered. Otherwise, you can get Meguiar's DA pads at Repco or Rupes pads at Sydney Tools -

https://www.repco.com.au/en/search/?text=da+foam
https://sydneytools.com.au/category/...polishing-pads

[fiestaz]

Thanks DFB. I assumed a 6 inch would be too big (who would have thought).

Off to repco again in the morning!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

Thanks DFB. I assumed a 6 inch would be too big (who would have thought).

Off to repco again in the morning!

Took me a while to get my head around that.

In therory, the yellow Meguiar's pad would be for "polishing" and the red one for "cutting". You could probably use either the 5.5 or 6 inch. The extra inch gives you a bit more protection from the backing plate, so I would take one of your current pads with you to see where it sits in relation to the Megs versions.

5.5 -
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam

6.0 -
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam

[fiestaz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Took me a while to get my head around that.

In therory, the yellow Meguiar's pad would be for "polishing" and the red one for "cutting". You could probably use either the 5.5 or 6 inch. The extra inch gives you a bit more protection from the backing plate, so I would take one of your current pads with you to see where it sits in relation to the Megs versions.

5.5 -
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam

6.0 -
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...arch=da%20foam

I have been using the yellow pad from Ryobi. I was a bit scared to use the red compound one to be honest. Yellow from Ryobi indicated it was for polish and removing light swirls/damage.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

I have been using the yellow pad from Ryobi. I was a bit scared to use the red compound one to be honest. Yellow from Ryobi indicated it was for polish and removing light swirls/damage.

The Megs yellow will be the choice then.

[fiestaz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

The Megs yellow will be the choice then.

Yeah I think so too.

Otherwise the other side of the car may look better than the other haha!

Your help is very much appreciated! Along with your show n shine thread, I follow it closely!

[GCRXR6]

How do you tell the difference? Are the colours a standard? Is a yellow always for polish? I have a black, that came with my Rockwell, and a yellow (Megs, I think). The black seems to be finer, but the difference does not stand out.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by GCRXR6

How do you tell the difference? Are the colours a standard? Is a yellow always for polish? I have a black, that came with my Rockwell, and a yellow (Megs, I think). The black seems to be finer, but the difference does not stand out.

Sadly, there is no standardized colouring system for polishing pads, which does make it confusing unless you are well studied or have a system of pads that you know and like.

For example, Rupes Yellow is considered a fine finishing pad and the Rupes Blue Heavy Cutting. Going to Shinemate, Yellow is Medium Cutting and Blue Intermediate.

As a very loose rule of thumb, the firmer the pad, the more cut it will achieve. A soft/squishy pad will be a finishing or waxing pad.

[DFB FGXR6]

Delivery Day!

[GCRXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Sadly, there is no standardized colouring system for polishing pads, which does make it confusing unless you are well studied or have a system of pads that you know and like.

For example, Rupes Yellow is considered a fine finishing pad and the Rupes Blue Heavy Cutting. Going to Shinemate, Yellow is Medium Cutting and Blue Intermediate.

As a very loose rule of thumb, the firmer the pad, the more cut it will achieve. A soft/squishy pad will be a finishing or waxing pad.

I suspected there would be no standard. Had to ask when reading some posts and seeing some videos, where they often say "I use a yellow pad for finish, others saying red or whatever." I figured it might have been either common use of one brand, preference for a type, or they just like colours. Thanks for clearing that one up. Perhaps manufacturers should marke the pads on the back, or it may be an idea for this ol' fella to buy a set of the same brand.

[prydey]

Sorry to butt in to the pad discussion...

Quick question that's no doubt been asked before...

Can I use Carpro Reset in the foam gun?

I'm about to run out of NV snow. Given I'm restricted in how I'm meant to be moving (or more correctly, not moving) I'm just keeping the cars looking tidy by just foaming and rinsing. If I keep on top of it, it's good enough as a one step wash.

The escape hadn't been done for a bit so I got my daughter to give it a sponge while it was foamed. Only foaming 1 wheel at a time and getting her to follow me around brushing them with the bowdens little chubby. Only foaming one side at a time too.

I have a new bottle of Carpro reset. It's a strong product. What sort of dilution should I use in the 1 litre foam gun?

Thanks in advance.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Sorry to butt in to the pad discussion...

Quick question that's no doubt been asked before...

Can I use Carpro Reset in the foam gun?

I'm about to run out of NV snow. Given I'm restricted in how I'm meant to be moving (or more correctly, not moving) I'm just keeping the cars looking tidy by just foaming and rinsing. If I keep on top of it, it's good enough as a one step wash.

The escape hadn't been done for a bit so I got my daughter to give it a sponge while it was foamed. Only foaming 1 wheel at a time and getting her to follow me around brushing them with the bowdens little chubby. Only foaming one side at a time too.

I have a new bottle of Carpro reset. It's a strong product. What sort of dilution should I use in the 1 litre foam gun?

Thanks in advance.

You can absolutely use Reset in a foam cannon -





The hard bit is figuring out how much to use. Carpro offer no information regarding it's use in a foam cannon and therefore an amount to use. For bucket washing, Carpro recommends 1:500 / 20ml per 10lts. And yet, they have a nice glossy pic of a car covered in Reset on page 31 of their product catalog -

https://carpro.global/wp-content/upl...2022_WEB_s.pdf

https://carpro.global/catalog/reset/

I use 100-150ml in my foam cannon. I got shot down on Inside the HEX for that dilution, but it's what works for me -

"Do what works best for you but I have noticed with reset the more you put the less the foam. You will have to adjust the top valve to add more water for it to foam properly. Superb foaming."

"I recommend getting a CARPRO Measure.
I use a PF 22 I put no more than an 1 oz typically."

1 oz is about 30ml. I keep meaning to try it at that dilution, but I like to use product! Perhaps try it at 50ml and see what you get.

In terms of using a Soap for foam and rinse type washing, I really like NV Snow for that as I think it seems to work better at removing road film without agitation. Also try using warm water in your foam cannon, this helps with touch-less as well.

[prydey]

Thanks. Always appreciated. I was sure the answer would be yes, it was more the dilution I was after.

Does anyone use knee pads and if so, any good recommendations? Needing to limit my bending so my knees are needing some protection.