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22-07-2022, 06:35 PM | #1801 | |||
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Quote:
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...o-kneeling-pad https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...g-kneeling-pad If you are struggling, it might be worth having a look at these which are designed for gardening. They give you something to hoist yourself up against - https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-...lster_p0149063 https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-ga...frame_p0241576 I actually have the Cyclone one for work, it's pretty sturdy and doubles as a seat. Is seating an option? https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...g-creeper-seat https://detailingshed.com.au/product...7c976383&_ss=r
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23-07-2022, 07:19 PM | #1802 | ||
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Anyone have any advice on cleaning fabric car seats.
Seats are very dirty, had covers on them since new and looks like they have never been removed. Any advice on what products to use. Thanks in advance. |
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23-07-2022, 07:31 PM | #1803 | |||
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I don't have an extractor, I would do and use the following - -Thorough vacuum. -Spray with a fabric cleaner, in my case it would be Koch Chemie Pol Star but if you wanted something readily available, try Bowden's Fabra Cadabra. Avoid using APC, these can be strong and risk discoloration. -Use a microfiber towel or interior brush to agitate. -Remove excess residue with a clean, dry towel. -Follow up with a vacuum. https://www.bowdensown.com.au/fabra-cadabra https://detailingshed.com.au/product...3baca053&_ss=r https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...holstery-brush
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23-07-2022, 08:32 PM | #1804 | ||
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At the risk of incurring the wrath of DFB I just used store bought stuff from Godfreys.
Enzyme Wizard which is brilliant on stains and the Bissell Little Green Carpet Cleaner, which is almost identical to the Bissell sold by Supercheap but about $40 cheaper. As DFB said vacuum first then go to work with the spray and Carpet cleaner. The Dragon Lady's Terry was previously owned from new by a middle aged single lady, no kids and only 3 The end result and the stuff used....................
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Last edited by GasoLane; 23-07-2022 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Grammar |
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24-07-2022, 07:04 PM | #1805 | ||
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Hey dfb.
What brush do you use to clean your rims ( xr8 ) ? I'm cutting up my hands reaching in to clean them with a sponge. Is there a brush that gets past the rotors that still has enough grunt to clean the inside of the rim ? Again thanks in advance Last edited by ford12; 24-07-2022 at 07:14 PM. |
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24-07-2022, 07:48 PM | #1806 | |||
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Quote:
From start to finish, the brushes I use to clean these wheels - RaceGlaze XL Brush for lug nuts (Substitute: Detail Factory Boars Hair, long handle version) - https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...g&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...ium-boars-hair Flexipad Finger Mitt for wheel face and back of the spokes (Substitute: Maxshine Finger Mitt) - https://www.obsessedgarage.com/colle...kin-wheel-mitt https://detailingshed.com.au/product...f9ee9a86&_ss=r Microfiber Madness Incredibrush Flat for the wheel barrels, this almost gets past most of the front brake combo. (Substitute: Gyeon Q2M Wheel Brush, this will struggle to get behind the caliper) https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...redibrush-flat https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...sh-small-large EZ-Detail Brush Small is handy to have to help around the Brembo Calipers. https://autobuff.com.au/collections/ez-detail
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24-07-2022, 07:51 PM | #1807 | ||
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I have put a "go-to" product listing in the Car Care section for anyone interested -
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11494985
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25-07-2022, 09:11 AM | #1808 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
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Quote:
One tip though for fear both these threads become duplicate topics... If you haven't already, you should get given mod status, then you can lock that thread and just update the list if and when required.
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UA2 TREND 4WD BI TURBO |
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25-07-2022, 05:56 PM | #1809 | |||
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Quote:
I note the thread has been make a Sticky, which is kinda what I wanted. I also want to update it when needed, which I assume I would need to consult a mod.
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28-07-2022, 07:39 PM | #1810 | ||
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Stoner's Tarminator - A Detailing Sledgehammer!
I have had a bottle of Stoner's Tarminator in my cabinet for a while now. I first learnt about this product while watching Matt from Obsessed Garage using it to clean brand new tyres in preparation for dressing. As the name suggests, Tarminator is primarily designed for removing stubborn tar, sap and bug deposits. In comparison to citrus oil based tar removers, Carpro TarX for example, Tarminator is a much stronger solvent and should be used with care. In fact, it can be harmful to clear plastics, adhesives, decals, and solvent sensitive materials. Being mindful of that, it's best used to spot treat contaminants with the aid of a microfiber towel, making sure to rinse well afterwards to remove any residue. Tarminator can also be used to remove baked-on carbon deposits from exhaust tips. Best applied to the towel rather than the tips themselves, and again, rinsed afterwards. The main reason why I got a bottle of Tarminator was for tyre prep. Whatever is in this product works really well at deep cleaning rubber. Tarminator will strip any lingering oils, release agents, fitment soap and other contaminants from a tyre sidewall, leaving a completely bare surface ready for dressing. It's best applied into a towel rather than directly to the rubber to avoid overspray onto the wheels. Once applied to the towel, scrub the sidewall aggressively. You will destroy a towel doing this, so choose wisely. In my experience, some tyres clean easier than others. The Michelin PS3's on my XR6 seem resistant to a variety of other rubber cleaners. Tarminator had no problems stripping them bare! Stoners Tarminator is not as freely available in Australia as their brilliant glass cleaner. Autobuff are the only retailers of this product now, Car Care Products having deleted it recently. https://autobuff.com.au/collections/...-remover-295ml Tarminator is not a product that will be used very often, but it's certainly good to have around.
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28-07-2022, 07:49 PM | #1811 | ||
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After using a fair bit of Tarminator on some very hard tar deposits earlier in the week, I needed to replenish my stock. As mentioned above, the only place selling this stuff is Autobuff, so I bought two for good measure.
Gyeon Wet Coat and Sonax Perfect Finish also needed to be restocked, along with some microfiber application sponges. https://autobuff.com.au/products/gye...c&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://autobuff.com.au/products/son...f&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://autobuff.com.au/products/trc...7f15e705&_ss=r Despite looking like a toilet brush, this version of the EZ-Detail Brush will be good on wheel arches and more open designed wheels. https://autobuff.com.au/collections/...ez-wheel-brush The EZ-Detail Brushes are probably the best of their type, having a much better quality of bristles and handle shaft. I also use them for engine bay cleaning. https://autobuff.com.au/collections/ez-detail
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30-07-2022, 07:41 PM | #1812 | ||
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As a general rule, you should never polish a set of headlights as it removes the UV protective coating applied when they were manufactured. However, when headlights have become yellowed and UV damaged, there are really only two options, wet sanding/polishing or complete replacement.
In my opinion, if the lamps are looking like below, there is no point in worrying about removing the UV coating as the lights are already damaged anyway. In these cases, I generally use a cutting compound and a cutting pad to clean away the oxidation. Once polished, it's best to apply some sort of sealant, or even better, PPF. In my case, I have been using McKee's Headlight Protectant Spray. https://carcareco.com.au/product/mck...tectant-spray/ Unless PPF is applied, expect the UV damage to return, and probably faster than before. Having said all of that, Waxit launched a new headlight restoration kit earlier this week - https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...estoration-kit https://invisionsales.com/products/h...storation-diy/ There are two kits offered, a "Mild" version for modest repairs and a "Heavy" one for more extensive restoration. The Mild version contains a cleaner to remove the oxidation and a "clearcoat" wipe to lock in the restoration. The Heavy version contains both of the chemicals from the mild kit in liquid form rather than prepackaged sachets. This kit also includes wet-dry sandpaper for more intensive restorations. I went ahead and ordered the heavy version, mainly so I could have more of the cleaner and clearcoat products.
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30-07-2022, 08:14 PM | #1813 | ||
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My XR6T Headlights are close to the condition of photo 1 - 2.
Another job on my to do list. How often do you re-apply the protectant spray?
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30-07-2022, 09:40 PM | #1814 | |||
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Quote:
Application is very simple, so it would be a pretty easy thing to do on a regular basis. It can also be used on brand new lights, instrument panels, plastic windscreens, vinyl convertible windows, goggles, visors, motorcycle headlamps, fiberglass and Plexiglas. McKee's recommend the lenses be free of oxidation prior to application. Once polished and cleaned with some IPA/Eraser, spray the product directly onto headlight and distribute using a microfiber towel. Flip the towel and remove the excess. It's also advised to do a second coat directly after to ensure good coverage.
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31-07-2022, 11:17 PM | #1815 | ||
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This is a old video from Obsessed Garage, but I think it doesn't get covered enough. Modern detailers push ceramic coatings so hard and doesn't talk about the negative aspects of it. As with anything, there are pros and cons to it.
https://youtu.be/X0Ej_Q-X_rI |
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01-08-2022, 08:31 PM | #1816 | |||
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As an example, for a daily or more regularly driven car, a ceramic coating would be quite desirable, offering resistance to chemicals, road grime, industrial fallout, UV protection and reducing the risk of bird or tree etchings. It's then easier to clean off those contaminants. A garage queen on the other hand won't fully benefit from a ceramic coating as it lives a pampered life and would be less likely to be exposed to the above contamination. This would be a case where a traditional wax or sealant would be more than sufficient, without sacrificing gloss or slickness. I was actually reading and thinking about the effectiveness of full-ceramic coating last night. This led me to finding this on a Gyeon Mohs EVO - Using Mohs as an example, this product has a 3 - 4 years durability. That reads really well doesn't it? Now look at the picture above and note a couple of key points - "Use Gyeon maintenance products like Q2M Bathe+/Wet Coat/Cure at least once a month." To me, this is very interesting. At what point do you judge which product is doing the job, the 4-year coating or the product put on top of it once a month? Needing to put something on so regularly, what is the point of the base layer coating for then? And if you skip those, what is the longevity of the coating then? If you need to do this so often, why bother going to the time and/or expense of installing a coating? "Attend your service every 24 months or 25,000km with your Gyeon Certified Detailer." In this case, the Gyeon Certified Detailer will do a decontamination wash and iron removal, and perhaps do a light maintenance polish with an appropriate ceramic polish. They will then coat the car with a maintenance topper like Gyeon Cure. Where I'm going with this is that ceramic coatings need attention, sometimes even more than a wax or sealant. However, they are promoted and sold on longevity and ease of maintenance. Detailers will also push ceramic coatings because it's what separates themselves with someone simply waxing their car on the weekend. Having said all of that, I certainly appreciate what ceramic coatings can offer, in fact, I installed Gyeon Can Coat today on a car. What makes me agitated is how these coating are sold, they are not the maintenance free and as long lived as they make them out to be.
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01-08-2022, 08:40 PM | #1817 | ||
Rob
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How you have the time and motivation to do your daily job as well as detail cars to the level that you do, I'll never know.
That Mazda looks mint.
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01-08-2022, 08:45 PM | #1818 | |||
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Quote:
I'm very happy with how the CX-5 turned out. I also used Colour Lock Leather Shield on the interior.
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01-08-2022, 08:46 PM | #1819 | ||
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I had my little Black German Taxi professionally done ( coz I knew that I'd stuff it up) in Opti-Coat a little over 8 years ago.
There weren't that many choices back then but Opti-Coat was the only one that was tested by the CSIRO. https://www.opticoat.com/wp-content/...i-Coat-Pro.pdf
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02-08-2022, 06:43 AM | #1820 | ||
Barra Turbo > V8
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So my ute had a maintenance detail completed yesterday.
Also had the interior cleaned. As ive said before i prefer to buy stuff in kits because im lazy Thoughts on this https://www.waxit.com.au/products/wa...39887747416153
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02-08-2022, 09:39 AM | #1822 | ||
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A sponge on a stick that is velcroed to the door so that it's not deemed a 'loose object'?
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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02-08-2022, 01:44 PM | #1823 | ||
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So I just transitioned to carpro reset as my sole car wash. I've always been impressed with it but the price always put me off. Anyway i just bought 4 litres and that will last me for years because it's so concentrated. It's cleaning power is like nothing else ive ever used.
I still have 3.5l of Bowdens Snow Job left and will then transition to NV Snow once the Bowdens crap is gone. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=799687237
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02-08-2022, 01:54 PM | #1824 | ||
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How did you find the colourlock mate?
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02-08-2022, 03:21 PM | #1825 | |||
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Quote:
Which version are you going for? The reason I ask is that the leather version included Carpro Leather ceramic coating. I would hesitate putting that on leather to be honest. I'm not convinced sealing leather up with a ceramic coating is the best thing to do to be honest. The rest of the package is good buying. I would just buy the fabric kit and add some NV Nourish to your purchase. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ish-leather-qd
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02-08-2022, 03:26 PM | #1826 | |||
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Reset is awesome. When I first started using Reset, it didn't foam as well as the latest version does. As such, I was using quite a bit more than recommended to get decent foam. So, I have been trying it at different dilutions recently and noticing good results from less soap. As you say, it's 500:1 dilution ration means a bottle goes a long way.
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02-08-2022, 03:35 PM | #1827 | ||
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It's a brilliant system.
I have used both the Mild and Strong versions of the leather cleaner now, both are very nice to use and give great results. Combined with their specific brush, they make cleaning leather fun. I have used three of their protection products now; Leather Sheild, Leather Protector and Artificial Leather Protector. Out of the three, I liked the Leather Protector the most. All three leave a lovely, soft natural finish with minimal shine. I like how these products are designed to take into account the differing versions of "leather" put into cars these day.
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02-08-2022, 05:12 PM | #1828 | |||
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Quote:
The interior in my ute is pretty much like new (apart from shifter that needs replacing soon) and doesnt really get dirty i might look at the colourlock leather milk Thoughts appreciated.
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02-08-2022, 06:04 PM | #1829 | |||
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Quote:
-Carpro Fabric is a textile protector. Considering you don't have cloth trim, it's use would be limited to carpet and carpet mats. I would skip this. -Carpro Leather is a ceramic coating, as mentioned, I don't really endorse those products. -Carpro Inside is an interior all-purpose cleaner. If you don't get the car that dirty, you really won't need to use a cleaner like that. Skip. -Carpro Perl is an interior/exterior dressing for plastics and rubber. Both work well on interior surfaces, although I prefer 303 Protectant for that role. The kit also includes towels, applicators and the Capro Inner Scrub mitt. The scrub mitt would be overkill on your interior, it does great work on filthy, neglected interiors though. Focusing on the chemicals, I would do the following - Carpro InnerQD - I love this product, it's designed for maintaining an already clean interior and can be used across most surfaces to remove dust and light scuffs. Lemon scented. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Carpro Perl or 303 Protectant - I don't use dressings much anymore, when I do I like to grab 303 the most. Perl needs to be diluted for interiors, but can also be used as a tyre dressing. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/30...1d8e25f1&_ss=r https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...b8dc0494&_ss=r NV Nourish/Cleanse - these two leather products are very good and could be desirable if you want to reduce your shipping costs by ordering from two suppliers. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...eather-cleaner (Cleaner) https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ish-leather-qd (Protector) Otherwise - Colour Lock Leather Milk Protector- this is an excellent leather protector, easy to use and leaves a lovely matte finish. I would add Mild Leather Cleaner and the Colour Lock brush to your order as well. And probably the application sponges as well depending on what you have. https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....or-150-ml.html https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....er-125-ml.html https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....ing-brush.html https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....sponges-1.html Seeing as you like kits, have a look at this one, you want the version for 3+ years old leather. I would still add the cleaning brush to your order - https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....-care-kit.html
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02-08-2022, 06:04 PM | #1830 | |||
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