free advice on the 83-87 telstar

[elliezeb]

have a 895 telstar with a leaking heater unit - leaks badly into the car once the car is pressurised. Is there a cheap solution to fixing - have been told it would cost about $700 to fix

[dirty hands]

you can disconect the heater and leave it off and blank of the two hoses with strong clamps depends on where you live

the heater

the dash has to be removed to get to the heater box
inside is a small radiator

If someone could take the dash out
all you would need to do is take that heater to a radiator repairer

other wise the main cost is the labour in removing and fitting the heater back in

$700 is a lot compared to the value of the car
shop around to get a lower price

try radiator repair shops
a wrecker for a second hand heater

[njla]

Dirty Hands,

I still have an issue with my girlfriends AS telstar not starting. Its deffinetly an electrial problem as we are getting no spark to the plugs. I have tested the battery and coil, we have 12V to the B+ side of the coil. When the engine is cranked I cant get any spark out of the coil. I have replaced the coil with one i know works. I have also replaced the ignition module inside the distributor with a new one (This could still be the problem as im not sure if it is the exact module needed) I have also had the distributor out and tested by an auto elec.

Is there another ignition control unit somewhere else or just in the dissy? Do you have a diagram ( even a rough hand drawn job) of how the ignition system is wired up from battery to plugs? Apart from taking it to an auto elec is there anything else i can check or test? Thanks in advance

Nathan

[dirty hands]

some coils have an exciter (replaces the condensor)
small black item close to the dissy
that may be faulty

with the ign on
check the voltage of the wires going onto the + side of the coil
there should be 7 or more volts into the coil

if there is no voltage
might be a fuse in the engine bay cluster

use another coil lead and hold it close to the metal see if it arcs to the body
when someone else turning the motor over

the problem may be the engine management computer

check the carbon contact in the head of the dissy is ok

I dont have a manual for the AS only up to 1987 carby motors

[njla]

Thanks mate,

I will have a look first thing tomorrow morning. Where does the engine management computer live? Its not the lead either ive tried another that i know works.
Thanks again

[dirty hands]

something missing or broken connection to that coil wire

it has to have voltage coming into the coil with ign on

only a guess
eci/ecu metal box ( size of a paper back with wire connections )

behind the glovebox -passenger kick panel against the fire wall

another common problem
you may have a faulty fuel relay that is in the same area

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

just a few more helpfull bits of information :
firing order is 1-3-4-2
plug gap .8mm
inlet and exhaust valve clearence hot .30mm
idle when hot -manual rpm 800-850--automatic 900-950
timing 6 deg BTDC
with the automatic there is a metal canister looking thing on it -- that sometimes fills with auto oil and needs to be replaced usually the cause of most problems with an auto
with a gasket kit the nm torque settings are on the packet so i wont post them

hi there i was just after the tension the exhaust manifold should be at for a 87 telstar

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by EB Pete

hi there i was just after the tension the exhaust manifold should be at for a 87 telstar

the tensions aren't posted on the packet for this one

[dirty hands]

exhaust manifold = 29 nm

inlet manifold = 26 nm
head bolts = 88nm
rocker cover = 4 nm
camshaft sprocket = 66nm
camshaft rocker gear 27 nm

[Syze_1989]

Dirty Hands.

Hi, New to Forums...

Got a 83kb 1.5 Laser (plus an 83 etc same but 1.3 for parts)

I'm looking at going to a Wrecker to check out If they have Air con unit in any of their Lasers.

I'm Guessing 82-85 Lasers with Air con would Fit as they are almost the same Model and how hard do you think it would be for me to remove the parts then put back into my own Laser my car??? I'm trying to save as Much $$$ as I can

[dirty hands]

you need to pm vippin . a guru for laser information

for the aircon on most cars you need
the compresser belt and tensioner + idler pully holder
all the bolts
timing pully of the motor if your car doesnt have the double belt capability
the large condensor in front of the radiator
the aircon unit behind the glove box and switches
air con pipes
the aircon regasser will supply the dryer and orings

[Matt_T85]

Hi Dirty Hands

Thanks for all the really useful info here - you opinion counts for a lot

Telstar AR 85 Hatch 310,000 km on the clock

My aim is to get the motor and transmission up to scratch to last another 5 years.

I have 2 Q's...
1) Fixing block flatness/warpage possibly caused by a recent over heating/head gasket failure.
2) Sump removal - what needs to be disconnected ?


Background :
A hole in the radiator lead to an over heating, and coolant all through the oil.
Though I guess its possible the radiator blew when the head gasket failed and the resultant exhaust crossover fed into the cooling pipes and then sucked the coolant in on intake.

Either way the engine was sludged, but only for a very few km (I stopped the car once it was obvious there was a lack of coolant).

So despite this, I think the engine is worth fixing - everything was preserved in oil the last 12 months Haha...ha...heh...hmmmpft

Had the Head replaced (original one cracked) 12 months ago.
But an oil leak around the head gasket existed from the time they put the new head on. Took it back a week later but 2 re-tensions later didn't help any, and I lost confidence in their approach to fixing the problem.

So after leaving it for so long (and one starter motor later) I decided to fix as much myself as possible.

When I took the head off myself (amazing what you can attempt with the right website) the head was warped and I got a different local shop to surface it and clean up the valves and seat clearances (ie reco'd head).

The head gasket was in good condition still, but you could see burned oil marks across the narrowest part between the 1,2 & 3,4 cylinders. (expected that from the overheat, but the surprise was that the rest of the asket looked untouched.

Also my block has got got a bow in it (longitudinally convex) - this has probably existed from before the 1st head replacement & I guess they thought it would be too much to machine it ? or didn't check it.
You can see from the picture that the back of the oil port is shiny where I assume the gasket didn't seal.

http://www.bigpondphotos.com.au/imag...mageId=8991920

http://www.bigpondphotos.com.au/imag...mageId=8991919

http://www.bigpondphotos.com.au/imag...mageId=8991918

http://www.bigpondphotos.com.au/imag...mageId=8991917

http://www.bigpondphotos.com.au/imag...mageId=8991916

1)
I was planning to use a stone and straight edge/feeler guage to give me the required flatness. Ever heard if it can be done by hand with a diamond-stone ?

2)
Got a problem removing the sump pan, I can follow the procedure in the gregory's manual I have, but there's no room to move the pan out after all bolts have been undone (6 hrs of trying in the cold - I gave up : ). My thinking is that I need to undo the top right engine mount and lift the block high enough. The manual mentions undoing the lower right mount/pulley/
etc but not this top one - & the damn bolt wouldn't budge. I'm thinking it restricts the upward block movement to gain enough clearance... or is there a special trick ? ...like have to remove the water pump and turn crank to x degrees ?


Sorry for the long read : ... but advice would be very (virtually ) appreciated

cheers Matt

[Matt_T85]

above links aren't accessable try these :

fudge anyone?


Block 1 - note the clean spot behind the oil port where the gasket didn't seal


Block 2 - quite a deposit in the piston chambers


Sump 1 - can't quite see the bolts from the water pump impeding the pan's exit


Sump 2

[dirty hands]

the pictures help a lot / the block looks good / very little corrosion.

ok if you can remove the brace below the sump where the brick is resting
that would be ideal
the brace should only be held in by bolts and not welded to the chassis

if not you would jack the motor up until there is eneough clearence
for the sump to drop

you should fit new rings while you have the chance

block warpage and head warp limit is .15 MM for both

if there is more you can fit 2 head gaskets

I use ACL blue gasket stuff in a spray can or you can use the copper stuff

find the warp ,use an oil stone to reduce the warp

not wise to use a circular stone/grinder it has to be flat

but if the block warpage is a lot ,, the block should be refaced

you check diagonally with a straight edge and feeler guage method

check the block over for cracks

hope that helps

to lift the motor up further a lot has to be undone

[Matt_T85]

Wow thanks for all the really great info ! we're really lucky someone as knowledgable and as giving with your time is on these forums.

sump remove bracket - that will save me a lot
should fit new rings - thanks yes I will - I''l be buying a piston/ring sleeve tomorrow.

Good to know the flatness of the block and 2 gasket method (never would of occured to me).

After what you said about the block I have confidence that I can flatten out the warpage with a stone fairly easily (just time consuming)
the block is 0.09mm flat now, but my main concern is the adhesion of the area behind the oil port, without relying on sealant.

or will the ACL seal hold up 50,00 km until the next head check ?

corrosion... well I originally thought that the block wasn't worth saving, I blew a lot of scale out and the welsh plugs were almost through. But after the clean up it didn't look too bad.

As for checking for cracks, I had planned to make a 'home made' pressure test but guess it'll have to wait until I have the pistons back in.

Thanks again DH... You're a champion!!! :

cheers, Matt

[suasage]

Try checking the white plastic air filter/back-pressure /unit, mounted on inlet manifold. Place hand under unit and block relief hole. If motor returns to normal idle,unit is faulty. Hope this ois some help. MARK- 0423298076

[Matt_T85]

Hi DH/Everyone

Well my engine has been cleaned up alot, and i think I've stopped finding wornout components. Starting to put it all back together...
I have got a bit of a problem now though.

I used a loctite threading compound on the connecting rod end cap bolts.
When i tightened the nuts the very last one suddenly went loose.

If I haven't yeilded the bolt, i have probably stripped the thread - will find out when I get it back out again (and take some pictures). I think the Standard torque setting may have been a fraction high, given the loctites viscosity.

So anyone know where I can lay my hands on some more end cap bolts?

Understand they are a push fit so it will be difficult to get aftermarket ones the exact size. But would some from a wreckers be a) acheiveable to get hold of and b) suitable given their age?

[dirty hands]

from a wrecker or a nut and bolt manufacture /retail outlet

ring ford spare parts and repco

try the yellow pages a second hand bolt and nut is ok

also mazda 626 engines may have the same bolt in its motor

it should be metric

[suasage]

Can you tell me the best site to advertise all my leftover 1983/4 telstar ghia parts.I live near beaudesert. Thanks MARK.

[dirty hands]

ebay would do

[dirty hands]

starter motor removal

starter held on by two bolts

first undo the battery terminals
remove the air filter to make some working space
undo the ignition wire (should be a push on wire )
undo the battery wire to the starter
undo the two bolts holding the starter motor on
to the engine

withdraw the starter

done
__________________

[Matt_T85]

Hi DH Hows things

I finally got my Telstar back together last month (& rebuilt my computer after it decided to die too)

New Rings, cleaned block, head reco'd, some nice new blue paint

It ran beautifully for the test run, but has had a smoke problem, and there does seem to be a problem with a slight 'tick' over the the No.1 cylinder
The smoke is only really evident on a cold start for about 30 secs (alot of smoke tho).

Originally I thought it was a dreaded gasket problem again (the reason I took it apart in the first place)

But considering how painstakingly careful I was I think this is probably not the problem....
It could be that the valve guide is a possible culprit, or maybe a bent valve ???

Certaining the 'ticking' is leaning my opinion towards that idea
Am I right in thinking a bent valve head could be causing the stem/follower to momentarily lose touch with the cam and cause this sound ?
I should take a recording and put it on here

Also if the seating wasn't flush with the valve head I guess it could let oil drain into the bore when stopped and be the cause of the smoke on a cold start.

What's do yo think DH ?

[dirty hands]

as you run the motor in, it will use a little oil and smoke
till the carbon rebuilds a seal at the top of each cylinder---
so not a problem
give it 500 kms to settle in

do a compression test if you think you have a valve problem

good pictures very neat job

[dirty hands]

wish this had a sticky

[finmac]

Hi DH,
Just a quick question, i have just bought an 84 telstar and there are a couple of thing that need to be done.
Could you please explain how to replace the idler bearing and the rocker cover gasket ? Bearing in mind that this will be the first time ive done this on any car..
Your help would be appreciated.
FM

[dirty hands]

rocker cover gasket .take off the air filter
pop off the plug leads undo the bolts holding on the rocker cover (there are 7)
lift off the cover
use permatex blue or black to seal the new gasket and prevent oil leakage

Idler pully
a guess because the repair manual is no a good guide!!! argh
undo/slacken off the drive belts -
the idler pully may have a through bolt or an adjuster set up
undo the bolt/ s holding the idler pully in place

[MotherNatureVer2]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

wish this had a sticky

Will see what I can do ;)

[EB Pete]

Hi,

I have a 87 AS Telstar sedan. Recently I have installed A/C in it from a wreck and since doing so I have found that when the A/C kicks in it puts a bit to much strain on the alternator. So my 1st question is, Is there a bigger current output alterenator that I can bolt straight in, from a later model or even a laser or anything else?

My 2nd problem is, the fans to cool the refrigerent don't seem to work that well(mainly the drivers side 1). Is there a better setup on later model or Laser models that will fit straight in?

thanks
pete

[dirty hands]

yes you can get a bigger amp output ..and regulator .. just ask an auto electrician
perhaps one out of a taxi

again ask an auto electrician about checking the cars blower and fan switch relay outputs
the motor might be getting tired
pop your head under the dash an look for cracks in the plastic piping
also might be leaking at the joints

[shiftybugger]

I recently bought an 85 AR Telstar (TX5, 2.0L, Manual) and I have a few questions:

1. Is it made for leaded or unleaded fuel? It doesn't say anything next to the fuel cap and the hole for the fuel tank is larger than the typical unleaded one. This leads me to think that it is made for leaded but I can't seem to find any info that tells me for sure.

2. The car seems to have trouble if I put my foot down at lower revs. If am at around 2000 rpm (or below) and I accelerate even slightly hard (at any speed, in any gear) the engine misses or something. Except, it's not like a miss, it's almost like one cylinder is locking up. It is quite violent, the whole car jolts almost like the brakes go on hard for a split second and occasionally the tyres will squeak. This happens whether the car is cold or has been on the highway for 2 hours. Between 2000 and 3000 rpm it doesn't happen as often, and when it does, it's just a slight jolt and quickly recovers. Over about 3000 rpm it doesn't seem to happen or isn't noticeable. Things I've checked:
- Plugs - all clean
- Leads, distributor - all appear to be in good nick
- Air filter - fairly clean, not far off new
- Carby - only a cursory check, fuel level in the clear window is good, but only checked with the engine off.

Any idea?