Mowing ..

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by FTE217

PJ, I have buffalo, over summers its weekly easily mowing with the aggressive amount of growth and the rains we've had.
IF I left it fortnightly I'd be in horror how long it would be and time added to cut it down and yes would look terrible ( yellow and looking half dead) cutting at the usual height I cut.
How much area is your lawn for trimming and cutting whilst DFB is lookign up options for you
I notice those battery trimmers have pretty thin wire like 2mm, that would last 5mins for eg in my yard.

88sqm in total
Probably about 25 metres of edge so in terms of trimming, doesn't take long

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

If you weren't flush with cash right now and had to buy a mower and a line trimmer, what would you buy?

I used a Ryobi electric line trimmer recently and was really happy with it - after not wanting to deal with a petrol equivalent.

I also have ryobi drills etc in the house and believe the batteries are interchangable which is obviously a good idea.

But the mower, I have no idea really..

Ok..............

I totally understand not wanting to deal with petrol/2-stroke machines, they can be extremely frsutrating. Most of that comes down to improper storage over the cool season, the fuel gumming up in the fuel lines and carby from lack of use. This is easy to deal with, simply drain and run the engine till it dies to remove the fuel from the lines. You machine will then start correctly in the spring.

I say all of that because, depending on how much space you are dealing with, petrol is still a viable option for the increased stamina, range and ultimate grunt. (I'm talking the line trimmer here).

Don't mess about, get a Stihl FS38 or FS45 (bent shaft) or the FS 55 (straight shaft). The FS38 should be all you need for about $220. Don't bother with the FS45 C-E, this is the assisted spring starter that is just something to go wrong, ask me how I know this, and most guys are strong enough to start a small 2-stroke without the spring assistance.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-38.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-45.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-55-RC-E.aspx

If you want to stay with the Ryobi battery system, just make sure you have enough battery capacity to get through the job without having to wait for a recharge. I like this one as it looks to be more ergonomic than the cheaper versions, much more like a traditional brushcutter/trimmer -

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18...-only_p0396290

For the mower, this is going to be a harder decision. First a couple of basics warnings/recommendations -

-Do not buy an American-style mower. These usually have compromised catching ability by having a small discharge chute and a bar blade. This hampers catching ability. Think Toro, the cheaper Honda's and the variety of spaceship looking battery electric machines.

-Overall, avoid models fitted with a single piece bar blade. In addition to them being fitted to US mowers, they are usually fitted to entry level lawn mowers as they are cheaper for the manufacturers to make. These blades will compromise the crankshaft if you accidentally hit something. They also compromise the catching ability.

-Brands to consider looking at closely include mid-spec Victa, Masport and Bushranger mowers.


Mower Recommendations -


Because you have Buffallo, this tends to soak up more power than say fescue. It's thick and spongy and you really need to have the engine to handle that. Restarting a bogged down engine gets old real quick.

That may mean looking at a good used mower, plenty of which pop up on Facebook Marketplace, although I completely understand if dealing on the platform is not your thing, it's certainly not for me! In this case, look at something like a Victa, Masport or Rover with a 190cc Briggs and Stratton engine. Although these are their older style engine, these have plenty of torque for the job.

I'm not sure what you budget can afford, but I would say buy the biggest engine you can. Most mowers these days sit anywhere between 125 - 140cc. I would say aim for at least the 150cc Briggs, ideally the 163cc Briggs, or if you can reach that little bit higher, the 190cc Briggs. For Victa's, DO NOT buy their V-Series powered models, these have cheap and nasty Chinese motors on them.

Some to consider, I have highlighted the value picks in red as these offer more engine for the money -

Mid Level -

Victa Power Mulcher 163cc $800 -
https://www.bunnings.com.au/victa-po...mower_p0080735

Victa Corvette (625EXi) 150cc $699
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...00-625exi.html

Victa Corvette 300 (675EXi) 163cc $799 -
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...vette-300.html

Masport 2000ST DOV 161cc $709 - (This engine is stronger than the 163cc above)
https://masport.com.au/outdoor-garde...sident-2000-st

Higer End -

Masport 4000ST 190cc $879 (Great engine!)
https://masport.com.au/outdoor-garde...0-st-s19-combo

Victa Easy Walker 163cc (Self propelled) $950
https://www.bunnings.com.au/victa-ea...mower_p0080736

Victa Mustang (725EXi) 163cc $999 (Alloy chassis) -
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...ng-725exi.html

More than happy to help further if needed.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Went in to pick up my old BG 86C this morning. At first, I thought it wasn't mine as the unit had the model badge on the recoil housing, mine having lost that a long time ago. Then I spotted the tech screws holding the tube on and realized what they did.

image

A secondhand recoil housing costing me all of $30. I actually went looking for something similar online, but none were available for sane money or in the country.

Importantly, there will be NO MORE TOOL LENDING!

Whilst I was in the Stihl shop, I bought my two-year-old cousin a chainsaw.......

image

The little guy is just too cute pushing his toy lawn mower around the yard, exactly like I did at that age. I joke to his mother that he will be a gardener one day and that I will be offering him a job soon! Apparently, he loves anything that makes a noise or go's vrooooom. I think I'm going to have to start influencing him with Mustang's and XR8's........

Too cute......................

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Ok..............

I totally understand not wanting to deal with petrol/2-stroke machines, they can be extremely frsutrating. Most of that comes down to improper storage over the cool season, the fuel gumming up in the fuel lines and carby from lack of use. This is easy to deal with, simply drain and run the engine till it dies to remove the fuel from the lines. You machine will then start correctly in the spring.

I say all of that because, depending on how much space you are dealing with, petrol is still a viable option for the increased stamina, range and ultimate grunt. (I'm talking the line trimmer here).

Don't mess about, get a Stihl FS38 or FS45 (bent shaft) or the FS 55 (straight shaft). The FS38 should be all you need for about $220. Don't bother with the FS45 C-E, this is the assisted spring starter that is just something to go wrong, ask me how I know this, and most guys are strong enough to start a small 2-stroke without the spring assistance.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-38.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-45.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-55-RC-E.aspx

If you want to stay with the Ryobi battery system, just make sure you have enough battery capacity to get through the job without having to wait for a recharge. I like this one as it looks to be more ergonomic than the cheaper versions, much more like a traditional brushcutter/trimmer -

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18...-only_p0396290

For the mower, this is going to be a harder decision. First a couple of basics warnings/recommendations -

-Do not buy an American-style mower. These usually have compromised catching ability by having a small discharge chute and a bar blade. This hampers catching ability. Think Toro, the cheaper Honda's and the variety of spaceship looking battery electric machines.

-Overall, avoid models fitted with a single piece bar blade. In addition to them being fitted to US mowers, they are usually fitted to entry level lawn mowers as they are cheaper for the manufacturers to make. These blades will compromise the crankshaft if you accidentally hit something. They also compromise the catching ability.

-Brands to consider looking at closely include mid-spec Victa, Masport and Bushranger mowers.


Mower Recommendations -


Because you have Buffallo, this tends to soak up more power than say fescue. It's thick and spongy and you really need to have the engine to handle that. Restarting a bogged down engine gets old real quick.

That may mean looking at a good used mower, plenty of which pop up on Facebook Marketplace, although I completely understand if dealing on the platform is not your thing, it's certainly not for me! In this case, look at something like a Victa, Masport or Rover with a 190cc Briggs and Stratton engine. Although these are their older style engine, these have plenty of torque for the job.

I'm not sure what you budget can afford, but I would say buy the biggest engine you can. Most mowers these days sit anywhere between 125 - 140cc. I would say aim for at least the 150cc Briggs, ideally the 163cc Briggs, or if you can reach that little bit higher, the 190cc Briggs. For Victa's, DO NOT buy their V-Series powered models, these have cheap and nasty Chinese motors on them.

Some to consider, I have highlighted the value picks in red as these offer more engine for the money -

Mid Level -

Victa Power Mulcher 163cc $800 -
https://www.bunnings.com.au/victa-po...mower_p0080735

Victa Corvette (625EXi) 150cc $699
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...00-625exi.html

Victa Corvette 300 (675EXi) 163cc $799 -
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...vette-300.html

Masport 2000ST DOV 161cc $709 - (This engine is stronger than the 163cc above)
https://masport.com.au/outdoor-garde...sident-2000-st

Higer End -

Masport 4000ST 190cc $879 (Great engine!)
https://masport.com.au/outdoor-garde...0-st-s19-combo

Victa Easy Walker 163cc (Self propelled) $950
https://www.bunnings.com.au/victa-ea...mower_p0080736

Victa Mustang (725EXi) 163cc $999 (Alloy chassis) -
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/produ...ng-725exi.html

More than happy to help further if needed.

Wow thanks for that!

I'll definitely take that on board and have a look at those mowers.

A mate of mine was suggesting he had a mower that "mulched" the grass as he went, therefore not needing a catcher.

What is this madness?

I can't imagine even if it did mulch that it would leave my lawn looking very nice.. but not having to empty a catcher certainly seems tempting. Doubt it would be something I'd do though as again, probably doesn't leave the lawn looking as nice as it could

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

Wow thanks for that!

I'll definitely take that on board and have a look at those mowers.

A mate of mine was suggesting he had a mower that "mulched" the grass as he went, therefore not needing a catcher.

What is this madness?

I can't imagine even if it did mulch that it would leave my lawn looking very nice.. but not having to empty a catcher certainly seems tempting. Doubt it would be something I'd do though as again, probably doesn't leave the lawn looking as nice as it could

Mulching can be a very good thing. Apart from the time saving of not emptying the catcher, it helps to add nutrients back into the lawn that would normally be taken to the green waste or put in your compost.

Most mid-level and up mowers come fitted with a mulching blade system and a mulching plug that fits into the chute instead of the catcher. The plug keeps the cut grass circulating inside the deck for longer, cutting the clippings finer in the process.

There are a few key things to consider with mulching -

-It works best when the lawn is cut tall and/or often. Trying to cut too much length when mulching can leave a messy finish.

-Mulching works best on completely dry lawns, the finely cut clippings then fall down into the lawn more readily. If the grass is wet, it hampers this process. Not entirely undoable, but best results are from dry grass.

The finish left by a mulching mower can be variable, but when done so correctly, you won't even notice the difference.

This is using my dedicated commercial mulching mower, but my other mowers with mulching functionality work the same way.







Sometimes, if you bite off more than the machine can chew, you may end up with some visible clippings. My method in that situation is to quickly run over the lawn with my blower to distribute them more evenly.



Even when using the blower, the time saving factor is still worthwhile.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

Wow thanks for that!

I'll definitely take that on board and have a look at those mowers.

A mate of mine was suggesting he had a mower that "mulched" the grass as he went, therefore not needing a catcher.

What is this madness?

I can't imagine even if it did mulch that it would leave my lawn looking very nice.. but not having to empty a catcher certainly seems tempting. Doubt it would be something I'd do though as again, probably doesn't leave the lawn looking as nice as it could

I’m not a fan of mulching mowers, their benefits are grossly overstated. I either catch or slash(lift the flap and spread the clippings out) the rougher lawns or winter weed growth.
One client I have uses his mulching mower for a fescue/kikuyu lawn, the only advice he can give is, you MUST cut small amounts off frequently, or your lawn just clags up and gets covered in clippings.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

I’m not a fan of mulching mowers, their benefits are grossly overstated. I either catch or slash(lift the flap and spread the clippings out) the rougher lawns or winter weed growth.
One client I have uses his mulching mower for a fescue/kikuyu lawn, the only advice he can give is, you MUST cut small amounts off frequently, or your lawn just clags up and gets covered in clippings.

The key factor!

When I had a very long, time consuming job that involved three adjoining properties, they liked their lawn cut weekly. As such, I was only ever cutting the very tips off the grass, leveling the finish if you will. Using a mulching mower here was extremely good for saving time and effort without compromising the finished results.

In some situations, the mulching function can be a nightmare, that would typically be on damp or taller grass. In this case, the finish will be terrible and the machine will bog down too much.

Mulching is about picking your mark, knowing when to use it to save time, knowing when to just put the catcher back on.

[Poetic Justice]

Yeah I think I'll stick to the catch and discard

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

Yeah I think I'll stick to the catch and discard

In that case, its important to choose a mower with a full width discharge chute. I harp on this aspect a lot, but only because I know how frustrating it is to unblock half-chute mowers that clog up with clippings, especially on damp or medium-long grass. This makes the whole mowing task more of a chore than it needs to be.

Full width Honda, all of the mowers I linked above are full width.



Half width Honda, the gearbox takes up the rest of the space. This is common to all American style mowers -

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In that case, its important to choose a mower with a full width discharge chute. I harp on this aspect a lot, but only because I know how frustrating it is to unblock half-chute mowers that clog up with clippings, especially on damp or medium-long grass. This makes the whole mowing task more of a chore than it needs to be.

Full width Honda, all of the mowers I linked above are full width.

image

Half width Honda, the gearbox takes up the rest of the space. This is common to all American style mowers -

image

Funny you should mention that - this was driving me nuts the other day blocking the chute to the catcher.

[Poetic Justice]

Some more of my plight:

The perspective:


Before mow:


Post mow:


And a bit later, when it has a bit more of that yellow look to it

[Poetic Justice]

And I've gotta figure out what to do here... could I make something grow, or should I tear it up and lay soil?

I'm not going the instant turf in this area as I can't afford nor justify it - but if I plant and work with it over the coming months it should give me something to obsess over.

and of course, after the builder comes back to clear up the rest of the crap they didn't pick up on the first site clean

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

Some more of my plight:

The perspective:
image

Before mow:
image

Post mow:
image

And a bit later, when it has a bit more of that yellow look to it
image

How long has the turf been down now?

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

How long has the turf been down now?

I think it was a few days before Christmas

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

I think it was a few days before Christmas

Ahh, ok.

When turf is installed, the soil it's delivered with is usually still laced with a lot of the fertiliser from the farm it was harvested from. Also, new turf is usually installed with a light "lawn starter" fertiliser.

This means a new lawn will grow like crazy for a number of months..............I can tell that by your photos. After it's been down for a while, the grass will slow down to a more manageable level. You will find that when it bounces back from winter (Buffallo can turn brown over winter depending on your climate, certainly does in Victoria), the rate of growth will not be at the level you are experiencing at the moment.

[Poetic Justice]

Thats a relief haha.

I also have to contend with my medium sized Boxer who will be back soon when our fences go up and what damage she may do!

[CFOUR]

bit late for pj but anybody else installing a new lawn should consider water crystals under the turf really helps the first couple months go smoothly.

[Tonz]

I would be watching where your dog pees, some breeds have a strong urine and can kill off some grass varieties

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by Tonz

I would be watching where your dog pees, some breeds have a strong urine and can kill off some grass varieties

Yep, I've definitely noticed my dogs ability to stain grass!

Not only that, run tracks from running around being a psycho

[FTE217]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

Some more of my plight:

The perspective:
image

Before mow:
image

Post mow:
image

And a bit later, when it has a bit more of that yellow look to it
image

PJ, with your sloping yard do yourself a favour, maybe a bit more than you'd like to pay but you'll Thank me and DFB.
Buy this as one of his suggestions
https://www.bunnings.com.au/victa-ea...mower_p0080736

Under DFB's great reviews and suggestions I went down this path not too long ago, rolls royce just makes cutting the grass that much easier/quicker using the self propelled.
One pull starts, just can't beat it.
Cuts like a sharp knife might I add.

[Citroënbender]

FTE, I’d have thought Mediterranean background would see you saying “calcestruzzo”. :p

That yard needs a landscape plan IMO, or the upkeep of outer reaches will likely end up in the too-hard basket. The other thing I wonder about is whether an agile dog could clear the fences, given height offsets.

[FTE217]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

FTE, I’d have thought Mediterranean background would see you saying “calcestruzzo”. :p

That yard needs a landscape plan IMO, or the upkeep of outer reaches will likely end up in the too-hard basket. The other thing I wonder about is whether an agile dog could clear the fences, given height offsets.

LOL bud, true so true for many of my paisano's !
Save yourself a motza of regular work, have hose will clean up nice haha

By the look of it PJ is in the wroks process getting the place in order.
I reckon a roKwiz split level retaining wall would look great

[Poetic Justice]

I've only lived there since a week before Christmas CB - and my dog isn't living with us just yet as we're waiting for a fence on the opposing side out of the picture. I have plans for moving forward with landscaping but $$ is the key as always

The fence appears closer than it is - there's quite a dip where my block drops down before the fence, a dog wouldn't be able to reach it

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Poetic Justice

I've only lived there since a week before Christmas CB - and my dog isn't living with us just yet as we're waiting for a fence on the opposing side out of the picture. I have plans for moving forward with landscaping but $$ is the key as always

The fence appears closer than it is - there's quite a dip where my block drops down before the fence, a dog wouldn't be able to reach it

If you are happy to do some of the work yourself, your local nursery may be able to help you come up with some ideas, saving you the expense of paying a garden designer or landscaper.

This is something we offer, where a will visit your property for a small fee, take some photos and rough measurements and then come up with a planting plan for you to implement yourself. All we ask is that the customer purchase the plants from us, in a way the planting plan is their discount.

Alternatively, take some photos, do a rough drawing with some measurements and take this into your nursery. Again, this is something we often advise on, and trust me, if you take the time to do a rough drawing with even rough measurements, then it makes the process soooo much easier than just squinting at a customer's phone and "I don't know" measurements. Doesn't have to be to scale, it just helps you and the staff member visualise things better.

Even if you don't want to do the construction work, and it's not something I particularly enjoy so I would totally understand that, then have the basics constructed, ie retaining walls, garden edging, irrigation ect, then do the planting yourself to save money. Again, if you unsure, ask your nursery, you are not alone being overwhelmed with that aspect and "we" are more than happy to help you along the way.

A couple of other points to consider -

- I would also 100% recommend having irrigation installed with an automated timer, this takes A LOT of pressure off, especially when you go away. Make sure it is drip irrigation, this delivers water to the soil rather than spraying it for the wind to carry away.

- Unless you like weeding, then 100% take the time and small additional cost in having weed mat installed with mulch. Again, it takes away some of the drudgery. Be sure to choose or insist on the felt type rather than the plastic woven crap which is very bad at sealing off the soil and prevents it from "breathing".

- Make garden beds as wide as you can, especially if you want to achieve to height, say to screen a fence. Far, far too often, people set out garden beds that are too narrow, this really limits your choice of plants, especially if you don't want to be trimming them as hedges to control the width or would like a couple of "layers".

- Try not to just Google plants. Certainly, use Google once you have a planting shortlist, but far too often people will come to me with plants they have seen online or on TV, only for me to tell them they won't grow in this area. Again, your local nursery (not Bunnings, they only sell what their contract growers will supply them) will help you choose plants suitable for your area.

- Consider having your soil, or soil you bring to site pH tested. Again, this is something we do for our customers free of charge. All you need is a small sample in a zip lock bag from a couple of areas. This is something very valuable to do BEFORE you start planting.

Sometimes, the pH may be imbalanced and hamper the growth of your plants. We see this a lot in new housing estates where the developer or landscaper has brought in soil. And while that soil looks and smells nice, it can often (95% of the time) be extremely alkaline with readings above 10.0. Most plants need 6.0 - 8.0 on the pH scale, when the soil becomes excessively alkaline or acidic, it locks up the nutrients in the soil, the plant then can't pick them up from the root system and eventually causing the plant to become anemic and, ultimately, die. People often reply to this along the lines of "but I have fed them heaps", completely missing the point that unless the pH comes down, then the plant won't make use of that feed.

I stress this point because 90% of the time, a plant that is not growing, thriving or generally looking sick, it's the pH that is the problem. If you do have a pH problem, then it's easy enough to remedy, you just have to know those readings before you start throwing things down.

- You WILL fail a few times, that's gardening! Sometimes, the failure will be out of your control, sometimes it will be something you did. The main thing is to not get dejected. Again, I have customers, usually younger people, who seem to treat the garden like any other aspect of their new home. As in, just start ticking boxes and it will all just "happen", shopping as if it was like choosing a wall colour or kitchen hardware. Plants are fluid, they grow, they flower, they drop leaves, they sometimes die. That's nature.

Good luck, it's certainly a big job but one that will make home more valuable in the long run. Not to mention the mental health benefits a garden can bring.

[Citroënbender]

That post deserves an invoice attached to it. So much good sense and experienced advice.

[DFB FGXR6]

Mowed the back lawn with my little red Corvette.............





I'm pretty lax in watering the back lawn, explaining the lack of "green" in the pics. The poor thing erupted into life with a generous cloud of oil smoke but ran strong. I think I might schedule a full rebuild one day, rings, gaskets and all. For such an old, low-cost machine, the economics don't make sense, the sentimental value makes it worthwhile in my opinion.

[DFB FGXR6]

Further evidence as to why you should not pi.s off your commercial customers.......................



There is over $200 of parts sitting on the bench right there, $200 spent at an online retailer from the comfort of my living room and delivered within two business days. No sitting in traffic to get to the store. No finding a park. No waiting to be served. No dealing with a smelly fat man with no retail experience or a smarmy woman with an attitude problem. And that's just a fraction of my yearly parts and machine expenditure.

We are all told support small business and shop locally. I'm all for that, but it has to work both ways! Not "I'll gladly take your money and treat you like an idiot in return". I will support local, but I expect to be supported in return.

Interesting to note that this store is having a "massive sale this Friday and Saturday"....................

I don't hold grudges......................much.

[Tonz]

send the above as an email to your 'friendly' repair shop

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by Tonz

send the above as an email to your 'friendly' repair shop

I’d give them nothing! Its the free market at work.

There used to be a small backward mower shop near me, they were helpful, but ANY repair was quoted as 6 weeks wait time. Now correct me if I’m wrong, the vast bulk of mower repairs are the same 4 things, surely they knew they could afford another mechanic to pump out the work in a timely fashion and make more money. But what do I know about mowers? I just push them.

[Poetic Justice]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

If you are happy to do some of the work yourself, your local nursery may be able to help you come up with some ideas, saving you the expense of paying a garden designer or landscaper.

This is something we offer, where a will visit your property for a small fee, take some photos and rough measurements and then come up with a planting plan for you to implement yourself. All we ask is that the customer purchase the plants from us, in a way the planting plan is their discount.

Alternatively, take some photos, do a rough drawing with some measurements and take this into your nursery. Again, this is something we often advise on, and trust me, if you take the time to do a rough drawing with even rough measurements, then it makes the process soooo much easier than just squinting at a customer's phone and "I don't know" measurements. Doesn't have to be to scale, it just helps you and the staff member visualise things better.

Even if you don't want to do the construction work, and it's not something I particularly enjoy so I would totally understand that, then have the basics constructed, ie retaining walls, garden edging, irrigation ect, then do the planting yourself to save money. Again, if you unsure, ask your nursery, you are not alone being overwhelmed with that aspect and "we" are more than happy to help you along the way.

A couple of other points to consider -

- I would also 100% recommend having irrigation installed with an automated timer, this takes A LOT of pressure off, especially when you go away. Make sure it is drip irrigation, this delivers water to the soil rather than spraying it for the wind to carry away.

- Unless you like weeding, then 100% take the time and small additional cost in having weed mat installed with mulch. Again, it takes away some of the drudgery. Be sure to choose or insist on the felt type rather than the plastic woven crap which is very bad at sealing off the soil and prevents it from "breathing".

- Make garden beds as wide as you can, especially if you want to achieve to height, say to screen a fence. Far, far too often, people set out garden beds that are too narrow, this really limits your choice of plants, especially if you don't want to be trimming them as hedges to control the width or would like a couple of "layers".

- Try not to just Google plants. Certainly, use Google once you have a planting shortlist, but far too often people will come to me with plants they have seen online or on TV, only for me to tell them they won't grow in this area. Again, your local nursery (not Bunnings, they only sell what their contract growers will supply them) will help you choose plants suitable for your area.

- Consider having your soil, or soil you bring to site pH tested. Again, this is something we do for our customers free of charge. All you need is a small sample in a zip lock bag from a couple of areas. This is something very valuable to do BEFORE you start planting.

Sometimes, the pH may be imbalanced and hamper the growth of your plants. We see this a lot in new housing estates where the developer or landscaper has brought in soil. And while that soil looks and smells nice, it can often (95% of the time) be extremely alkaline with readings above 10.0. Most plants need 6.0 - 8.0 on the pH scale, when the soil becomes excessively alkaline or acidic, it locks up the nutrients in the soil, the plant then can't pick them up from the root system and eventually causing the plant to become anemic and, ultimately, die. People often reply to this along the lines of "but I have fed them heaps", completely missing the point that unless the pH comes down, then the plant won't make use of that feed.

I stress this point because 90% of the time, a plant that is not growing, thriving or generally looking sick, it's the pH that is the problem. If you do have a pH problem, then it's easy enough to remedy, you just have to know those readings before you start throwing things down.

- You WILL fail a few times, that's gardening! Sometimes, the failure will be out of your control, sometimes it will be something you did. The main thing is to not get dejected. Again, I have customers, usually younger people, who seem to treat the garden like any other aspect of their new home. As in, just start ticking boxes and it will all just "happen", shopping as if it was like choosing a wall colour or kitchen hardware. Plants are fluid, they grow, they flower, they drop leaves, they sometimes die. That's nature.

Good luck, it's certainly a big job but one that will make home more valuable in the long run. Not to mention the mental health benefits a garden can bring.

Somehow I missed this post. Very helpful thank you.

Where are you located?