Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Another method for applying products like Wet Coat is to use your pressure washer to distribute the product.

Ignore the younger guy, he is way overusing the product. Keep watching for Yvan using the stream of water to carry a couple of sprays of the product onto the car, spreading and rinsing it in one streamlined action.

Skip to 11min 20 sec, then to 12.20 for the process in question -

[DFB FGXR6]

Following on with glass, this time polishing.

]Glass Polishing[/B]



Polishing glass is one of those next-level detailing tasks that can really transform the look of the car overall. Obviously, the main goal is to improve clarity but somehow it can really take a car to another level.

Glass is an incredibly hard surface, making it very durable and hard to scratch. That hardness also means it’s almost impossible to remove deeper scratches. While you may improve the appearance of deeper scratches, you won’t be able to totally remove them, even with the most aggressive of glass polishes and pads. I mention this so that readers can be realistic in what they can achieve with glass polishing. For that reason, polishing glass is more about deep cleaning the surface to improve clarity rather than removing scratches.

With that said, how do you polish glass? Just like paint, glass can be tackled in various forms of aggression. And also like paint, you can polish glass by hand or machine. I would also say that prep is key, so decontaminating exterior glass with iron removers and a clay bar is advisable if the glass is neglected.



Hand Polishing -

The first product that comes to mind in terms of hand polishing would be something like Autoglym Car Glass Polish. This is a non-aggressive option and is a deep cleaning solution designed for use by hand on exterior and interior glass. It is not suitable for use with window tinting, as in the film type, factory darkened glass will be fine. I really like how simple and easy this product is to use, simply apply to a towel and then working in circular motions across the glass. Leave it to dry and then buff away. The only drawback to this product is the dusting.

P&S Clarity Creme is another glass polish able to be used by hand. Use in conjunction with a foam or microfiber applicator.





Machine Polishing -

The next options involve more aggressive forms of polishing and are generally only suited to exterior glass surfaces. Because of the hardness of glass, you can safely skip finishing polishes and pads that you would normally start with on paint. Using more serious cutting compounds and pads will maximise your results, especially when using some sort of DA or Rotary machine.



But first, here are a couple of considerations to make when using a polisher on glass –

-Mask up the rubber and plastic trims surrounding the glass to protect them from staining.

-Another tip I learned from fellow forum member fordomatic is to lay a towel across the windscreen cowl to catch the dust and compound splatter, saving time on the clean up afterwards.

-Keep it moving! Try not to hammer down on one spot for too long, heat is the enemy here and the last thing you want is cracked glass. You don’t really need to be as methodical with your movements with glass either.

-If you don’t have a micro or nano polisher, you may need to cut in around the edges by hand so that you get an even, consistent finish.

If your glass is not heavily water spotted or is in otherwise decent shape, you can use a medium grade compound like Scholl S20 Black, Sonax Perfect Finish, Sonax Cutmax or the above-mentioned P&S Clarity Creme on a foam or wool cutting pad. Think Shine Mate yellow or green foam, Lake Country SDO Blue foam or Rupes Fine yellow wool. Using these combo’s will easily deep clean glass, removing minor water spotting and improve clarity.



The next level of glass polishing is to use a cerium oxide based product like Carpro CeriGlass, which is able to remove heavy water spotting, heavy contamination and heavier marks. These are best used on a Rayon glass pad which are thinner and help limit heat build-up.









From experience, CeriGlass is definitely a product that can be tricky to use. You need to mindful of supplemental water applications to keep the pad and glass cool, it dusts and splatters a lot and can be a pain to remove from the glass once you are done. The work is worth it though, CeriGlass will deliver the most improvement to neglected glass.



A couple of CeriGlass tips –

-Have a spray bottle with water handy to mist the glass before starting and after your passes. This helps with heat management and the removal process.

-CeriGlass can be used on a rotary or DA machine, or by hand using the Carpro polishing block supplied in the kit.



-To get the corners, edges or hard to reach areas done, you may need to do this by hand or with a micro/nano polisher.



-Masking is not optional with CeriGlass, the product is messy and will damage rubber trims if not protected by masking. Do your best to avoid getting it onto the surrounding paint.



-When removing the residue, I used a damp dowel and water to wipe off the bulk, followed by a second wipe over with Carpro Eraser or glass cleaner.

Having used CeriGlass a few times now, I can say that It’s a pain to use. Think of it as a sledgehammer, useful to have when nothing else will get the job done. For most, a regular polishing compound or P&S Clarity Cream will be sufficient to get glass looking great.

Now that you have the glass polished and deep cleaned, you are now ready to apply some sort of sealant or coating.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have played around with Zaino as well and like the products. At one point they were a leading brand at Waxit, however they have pivoted towards other brands now. I you enjoy using them, then keep doing so.

I'm assuming you are thinking the Opticoat has started to lose its effect?

Yeah, going back through my show and shine thread, I've confirmed that the opticoat was applied in late 2015. That means it's now over seven years old. It hasn't had any opticoat maintenance since the original application. Therefore, it's understandable that it's starting to wear. So, that's the medium answer. There is a slightly longer answer, but I'll leave that for another time, once I find time to do something about it

[DFB FGXR6]

Just spent the last two days completely immersed in my passion, and while I'm tired after all the work, I'm also fully energized by it too. I also learned something new in the process, applying a ceramic coating.

A big project like this means using the full gamut of detailing tools and products, something I find so enjoyable.





























Two days of work, or play, I can't decide?











And the good news? I get to this all over again next week on another car!

[Top_Ghia]

Stunning. I didn’t think you liked putting ceramic coatings on your own vehicles?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

Stunning. I didn’t think you liked putting ceramic coatings on your own vehicles?

I typically don't, and I still don't know how I feel about it. I'm certainly not anti-ceramic coating, just it doesn't really suit my style of detailing. However, I wanted to push myself and try something new, the Jag was next in line for a big detail, so it became the guinea pig.

[prydey]

I definitely couldn't detail cars for a living. Nowhere near the patience required. Hats off to you DFB.

I guess it would be similar to how cycling is (or was) for me. Some people wouldn't want to even look at their bike after a long ride but I generally get off and look forward to the next ride.

Everyone has their 'thing'. If you don't have a 'thing' I highly recommend finding one.

[CyberWasp]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

And the good news? I get to this all over again next week on another car!

Yes I look forward to you doing this to my Mustang when I drop it off next week. It will look awesome when done. The Platinum White will pop. Thanks heaps.......

I think there is a line forming behind me.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Yes I look forward to you doing this to my Mustang when I drop it off next week. It will look awesome when done. The Platinum White will pop. Thanks heaps.......

I think there is a line forming behind me.

Why wait till next week, come around tomorrow and I'll sort it out for you.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

I definitely couldn't detail cars for a living. Nowhere near the patience required. Hats off to you DFB.

I guess it would be similar to how cycling is (or was) for me. Some people wouldn't want to even look at their bike after a long ride but I generally get off and look forward to the next ride.

Everyone has their 'thing'. If you don't have a 'thing' I highly recommend finding one.

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

[DFB FGXR6]

Waxit have added 4 new Carpro products to their store with Release, Darkside, ImmoGel and Fabric 2.0 going live earlier this week. Reload v2 still on the way.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...pro-range?_kx=



I have ordered Release and Darkside, interested to see how Darkside turns out.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Just spent the last two days completely immersed in my passion, and while I'm tired after all the work, I'm also fully energized by it too. I also learned something new in the process, applying a ceramic coating.

A big project like this means using the full gamut of detailing tools and products, something I find so enjoyable.

Good stuff mate, awesome results.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Good stuff mate, awesome results.

Thanks, much appreciated!

[CyberWasp]

Do you ever think Carpro will find a way to improve on Hydro2 / HydroLite?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Do you ever think Carpro will find a way to improve on Hydro2 / HydroLite?

In what way? Durability?

[Top_Ghia]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

Living in a rural area I think the hard part would be finding the clientele willing to pay for the level of work you are doing. For the work you put into the Jag you would need to charge $2000+. I just don’t see that happening on the scale needed to work full time.
Then you would be left with the half day detail that I feel would get pretty boring.

But it is a service many are willing to pay for. I live in an area similar to yourself and a new detailer opened up a couple of years ago. They are booming and now have a manager and 4 or 5 full time detailers. They do car yard work, trade cleans(for fleet cars) and plenty of retail work.
So the market is out there.
But would turning your passion into your career ruin detailing for you?

[DJM83]

Torn with this.
Replace the entire lot as boot is getting on.
If im going to pull the lot out, im going to replace it (bloody pricey)
Wouldnt mind touching up the silver ring around the top. I have another gel dome to go on the top if i have to replace (factory shift pattern display was cooked)

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Torn with this.
Replace the entire lot as boot is getting on.
If im going to pull the lot out, im going to replace it (bloody pricey)
Wouldnt mind touching up the silver ring around the top. I have another gel dome to go on the top if i have to replace (factory shift pattern display was cooked)
image

I'm fairly sure you can get reproduction gel tops for those.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324720618828

[CyberWasp]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In what way? Durability?

In any way, gloss, durability, ability to repel dirt ect.

I was just asking as many of theirs and other products are v2 so you never know what they are tinkering on. They also never jumped into the graphene scene either.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

Living in a rural area I think the hard part would be finding the clientele willing to pay for the level of work you are doing. For the work you put into the Jag you would need to charge $2000+. I just don’t see that happening on the scale needed to work full time.
Then you would be left with the half day detail that I feel would get pretty boring.

But it is a service many are willing to pay for. I live in an area similar to yourself and a new detailer opened up a couple of years ago. They are booming and now have a manager and 4 or 5 full time detailers. They do car yard work, trade cleans(for fleet cars) and plenty of retail work.
So the market is out there.
But would turning your passion into your career ruin detailing for you?

Word of mouth will be the best form getting and retaining customers in this field, so I'm sure I could make it work eventually.

But.................my gardening hobby is something I then perused as a career in horticulture. Gardening is now simply a job and I have little to no interest in doing after hours. I love detailing so much that I don't want it to become "just a job".

[CyberWasp]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

You could also look at buying cheap neglected filthy cars. Work your magic on them and flip them for a few k profit.
That would still be a hobby to do at your own pace, but you would earn money for the time.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

In any way, gloss, durability, ability to repel dirt ect.

I was just asking as many of theirs and other products are v2 so you never know what they are tinkering on. They also never jumped into the graphene scene either.

Gotcha.

Yeah, it's probably up for an update by now. The only updates they have made recently is making smaller bottle sizes of the premix version, 50ml and 500ml in particular.

I have been using pre-mixed Gyeon Wet Coat lately, especially if it's going on paint.

The one thing I would like Carpro to improve on with Hydr02 is the occasional spotting that it leaves behind. Now, I have only ever used the dilutable version, so I don't know if this observation is related to dilution issues or if Hydr02 Lite premix is the same too.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm fairly sure you can get reproduction gel tops for those.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324720618828

Sorry mate i wasnt clear, i meant the metal ring under/around the gel dome. The dome on it is a repro. I have another spare one also.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Sorry mate i wasnt clear, i meant the metal ring under/around the gel dome. The dome on it is a repro. I have another spare one also.

Helps if I read the original post properly.

I wonder if the silver/chrome ring can be polished or refinished? The leather boot I would almost consider having retrimmed in real leather instead of vinyl.

[DFB FGXR6]

The Rag Company Ultra Black Sponge (UBS)

I never thought I would use a sponge to clean a car ever again, I can't even remember the last time I used one to honest. Having said that, this is not your average sponge!

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ff17de27&_ss=r
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...efed5225&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...-black-sponge/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/trc...k&_ss=e&_v=1.0



The Ultra Black Sponge (UBS) was designed with rinse-less washing in mind but can also be used with more traditional bucket and soap washing too. The sponge has laser cut grooves on both sides, creating a multitude of square "fingers". The theory being that contaminants are emulsified and forced into the grooves, which are then released into your bucket when rinsed. The actual sponge material is unlike any regular sponge available for a couple of dollars at a chain store, being extremely smooth dense.

Backtracking, I typically use the multiple towel method when rinse-less washing, also known as the Garry Dean Method.











The concept here is that by using multiple folded towels, once each section is used, they never re-enter the bucket. This means that the rinse-less solution never gets dirty or contaminated. From where I sit, this seems like the safest method of rinse-less washing.

However, the UBS is used like any other wash mitt or pad, you dunk the sponge into the bucket rinse-less solution, wring it out until just dripping and then make your passes across the paint. You then rinse out the sponge in the bucket, against the grit guard if required, and then start the next section. You could also turn this into a two-bucket method, using another water filled bucket to rinse the sponge out before dipping back into the rinse-less solution. For both methods, using a pre-spray of your chosen rinse-less product before starting is advised, which helps soften up contamination.








Once finished, rinse the sponge out under running water and leave to air dry somewhere clean.

Like rinse-less washing in general, I would probably pick my mark with the UBS. Overall, I actually liked using the UBS, certainly departure for me in terms of both soap washing and rinse-less washing. It also removes a lot of hassle in regard to towel management.

While we are on rinse-less washing, here are some pointers in regard to my favorite rinse-less product, P&S Absolute.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...90877d66&_ss=r
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...2b8a34af&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/ps-...inseless-wash/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...l&_ss=e&_v=1.0



What I love about Absolute is the scent and slickness it leaves behind. For the companies first foray into rinse-less washing, P&S nailed the user experience with this product. The one drawback of Absolute is its tendency to clump in the bucket. I found the following to mitigate this normal characteristic of Absolute -

- Shake the bottle vigorously before measuring it out.

- Use warm water in your bucket.

- Pour the concentrate into the warm water and stir vigorously with your hand.

- Add your towels or sponge to the bucket, swirling the mix each time you grab a new towel or re-dunking with the sponge.





When drying the car after the wash, I absolutely (sorry) love using a few sprays of Bead Maker to ramp up the gloss and slickness. The result is a clean, slick and glossy vehicle.

[DFB FGXR6]

My latest Waxit order arrived today, including two new Carpro Products, Darkside and Release.



I love Carpro's bottle and label design, so satisfying having these lined up next to each other.

Starting with Darkside, this is Carpro's take on a longer-term tyre dressing, or more the point, tyre "sealant". Where Perl is a water based "dressing" with a short longevity cycle, Darkside is considered a tyre "sealant", offering "up to 3 months protection". It also claims to offer superior water and dirt repellency and can also be used on other rubber surfaces. Darkside actually sits in the middle of Carpro's tyre products, with Blackout ceramic tyre coating sitting above it. A quick sniff of the bottle reveals a pleasing, sweetly scented aroma.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387593207897



Release was designed to offer short term protection for freshly applied ceramic coatings. Ceramic coatings typically require 12 - 24 hours curing before being exposed to moisture, applying Release helps protect the coating from rain, moisture, bird and bug deposits during those critical hours. This saves having the car stored in the workshop or garage, not always a practical situation, especially if you don't have a covered garage or carport, or detailer who needs the space once he is done. Release can also be used as a standalone quick detailer or drying aid.

Being wax based, Release will be removed during the wash process with Reset, revealing the true properties of the coating it was protecting. Scent wise, it has a strong citrus aroma, very similar to Gyeon Q2 Wax.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387621322841

[CyberWasp]

I just tried the application method of SiO2 as per the video on the top of the Page.

Let me say that there is a lot of merit in that technique. It does a very good job.

I misted a highly diluted Hyrdolite into the water spray from a crappy garden hose nozzle. The ones where you can rotate around the different spray patterns. I used a triangle pattern this time and found it worked really well. I didn't use a pressure washer.

It will be interesting if others have a crack and advise techniques as this opens up many different ways.

Just make sure you use a diluted down product as it is harder to manage from the point of I didn't seem to see the micro bubbles as you do when you apply to the panel 1st.

I think this way spreads the product in the best way from what I have seen so far, so will try on another car when time permits.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I just tried the application method of SiO2 as per the video on the top of the Page.

Let me say that there is a lot of merit in that technique. It does a very good job.

I misted a highly diluted Hyrdolite into the water spray from a crappy garden hose nozzle. The ones where you can rotate around the different spray patterns. I used a triangle pattern this time and found it worked really well. I didn't use a pressure washer.

It will be interesting if others have a crack and advise techniques as this opens up many different ways.

Just make sure you use a diluted down product as it is harder to manage from the point of I didn't seem to see the micro bubbles as you do when you apply to the panel 1st.

I think this way spreads the product in the best way from what I have seen so far, so will try on another car when time permits.

I actually tried this method for the first time last week, in my case using a pressure washer. Certainly an effective and efficient way of applying a product like Hydr02.

[DFB FGXR6]

Shedding Light on Carpro DarkSide -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387593207897



Carpro DarkSide was launched late last year, and as usual, it took a fair while for this and other new Carpro products to become available to Australian customers.



DarkSide is one of three products that Carpro sell for enhancing the appearance of tires -

Perl - a water based Si02 enhanced dressing for a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces depending on dilution. Perl's versatility sets it apart, suitable for use on interior plastics, leather, exterior trim and yes, tires. It's water-based formula does limit its longevity, especially on exterior surfaces, including tires. This has been a staple for many over a number of years now for its ease of use and the appearance it achieves.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397

Black-Out - a tire and rubber polysiloxane ceramic coating that was added to the Carpro range a couple of years ago. This product has a 6-month claimed durability, ideal for those who want to apply something and not have to bother reapplying as regularly as Perl. Carpro also make reference to self-cleaning abilities along with high salt and chemical resistance. I have heard mixed results with this product, some like it, others don't see the point.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...39390256136281

DarkSide - This is the latest in the trio, a product that sits in the middle of Perl and Black-out in terms of longevity, with up to 3 months of durability. In a technical sense, this makes DarkSide more of a sealant than a dressing. Key features include self-cleaning abilities, hydrophobic properties, UV protection and chemical resistance. The finish is described as a "satin black shine" and the liquid consistency of DarkSide is runnier when compared to the cream like consistency of (undiluted) Perl.

Application and Usage Notes -




- The success or otherwise of a tire dressing is in the prep. Slapping the dressing on quickly and thickly will increase the likelihood of the product failing or washing off earlier than anticipated. Spending some time scrubbing the tires with an appropriate cleaner will remove the buildup of dirt, oils and previously applied dressings or sealants.

- Use a stiff bristle brush with a tire and rubber cleaner to scrub the tires until clean. Look into P&S Undressed or Brake Buster, Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Shine Supply Wise Guy, Carpro ReTyre or even simply a strong dilution of APC. If the tires have not been cleaned recently, if ever, then continue to scrub and rinse until the product stops turning brown.







- While water-based dressings can be applied to wet tires, a product like this is best applied to dry tires.



- For application, use a foam or microfiber pad. I prefer foam for some reason.



- The supplied pump action dispenser has trouble lifting the product, in which case I recommend fitting a pop-top lid to the bottle to improve application.



- Darkside is a product that you have to work for, it doesn't have the silky-smooth application that products like Perl and NV Onyx exhibit. Darkside really needs to be worked into the rubber. That doesn't mean it's a bad product, just a different application feel. Work the product into the rubber using firm pressure, making sure to get even coverage.





- Depending on how heavily you applied the product, you may want to follow up with a towel after 15 minutes to level it down and prevent sling.

The final result from Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich satin finish. Additional gloss would be possible with a second coat, however I stopped at one.

Typically, longevity is not my main consideration when I select a tire dressing or sealant, mainly because I tend to chop and change products at each wash. However, I do see why the extended durability of DarkSide would be enticing, so it will be interesting to see how Darkside holds up.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Shedding Light on Carpro DarkSide -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387593207897

image

Carpro DarkSide was launched late last year, and as usual, it took a fair while for this and other new Carpro products to become available to Australian customers.

image

DarkSide is one of three products that Carpro sell for enhancing the appearance of tires -

Perl - a water based Si02 enhanced dressing for a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces depending on dilution. Perl's versatility sets it apart, suitable for use on interior plastics, leather, exterior trim and yes, tires. It's water-based formula does limit its longevity, especially on exterior surfaces, including tires. This has been a staple for many over a number of years now for its ease of use and the appearance it achieves.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397

Black-Out - a tire and rubber polysiloxane ceramic coating that was added to the Carpro range a couple of years ago. This product has a 6-month claimed durability, ideal for those who want to apply something and not have to bother reapplying as regularly as Perl. Carpro also make reference to self-cleaning abilities along with high salt and chemical resistance. I have heard mixed results with this product, some like it, others don't see the point.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...39390256136281

DarkSide - This is the latest in the trio, a product that sits in the middle of Perl and Black-out in terms of longevity, with up to 3 months of durability. In a technical sense, this makes DarkSide more of a sealant than a dressing. Key features include self-cleaning abilities, hydrophobic properties, UV protection and chemical resistance. The finish is described as a "satin black shine" and the liquid consistency of DarkSide is runnier when compared to the cream like consistency of (undiluted) Perl.

Application and Usage Notes -


image

- The success or otherwise of a tire dressing is in the prep. Slapping the dressing on quickly and thickly will increase the likelihood of the product failing or washing off earlier than anticipated. Spending some time scrubbing the tires with an appropriate cleaner will remove the buildup of dirt, oils and previously applied dressings or sealants.

- Use a stiff bristle brush with a tire and rubber cleaner to scrub the tires until clean. Look into P&S Undressed or Brake Buster, Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Shine Supply Wise Guy, Carpro ReTyre or even simply a strong dilution of APC. If the tires have not been cleaned recently, if ever, then continue to scrub and rinse until the product stops turning brown.

image

image

image

- While water-based dressings can be applied to wet tires, a product like this is best applied to dry tires.

image

- For application, use a foam or microfiber pad. I prefer foam for some reason.

image

- The supplied pump action dispenser has trouble lifting the product, in which case I recommend fitting a pop-top lid to the bottle to improve application.

image

- Darkside is a product that you have to work for, it doesn't have the silky-smooth application that products like Perl and NV Onyx exhibit. Darkside really needs to be worked into the rubber. That doesn't mean it's a bad product, just a different application feel. Work the product into the rubber using firm pressure, making sure to get even coverage.

image

image

- Depending on how heavily you applied the product, you may want to follow up with a towel after 15 minutes to level it down and prevent sling.

The final result from Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich satin finish. Additional gloss would be possible with a second coat, however I stopped at one.

Typically, longevity is not my main consideration when I select a tire dressing or sealant, mainly because I tend to chop and change products at each wash. However, I do see why the extended durability of DarkSide would be enticing, so it will be interesting to see how Darkside holds up.

It's very hard to be critical of any of your posts, DFB, as, even if I don't agree with (very few of) them in their entirety, they're usually very informative, well thought out, and well presented.

BUT, can you please use 'tyre' and not 'tire'? We're not a minor island of the States. Yet!