Mowing ..

[FASTXR]

How much run time do you get out of the 2.5ah battery Gaso?

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by FASTXR

How much run time do you get out of the 2.5ah battery Gaso?

Only a 1.5ah (Was a freebie with the mower ) Not sure on the runtime. It takes me about 1hr to do the front and back coz I'm slow, but I think there's usually 2 to 3 bars left on the battery.

I just checked the video in the link posted on here, mine isn't that modern

[DFB FGXR6]

In terms of weight -

5.0Ah - 2.25 kg
2.5Ah - 1.3 kg

The 5.0Ah battery is certainly the heaviest part of my LB765 blower but still very manageable.

Another way you could go would be this kit -

https://www.totaltools.com.au/174368...-kit-st1521e-b

This would keep the weight down with the smaller batteries, but having two of them should keep you running and be handy if you add extra tools down the track. The only downside is the Standard Charger, which is slower to recharge the Rapid Charger.

Rapid Charger -
2.5 Ah Battery: 30-minutes
5.0 Ah Battery: 30-minutes

Standard Charger -
2.5 Ah Battery: 50-minutes
5.0 Ah Battery: 100-minutes

[GasoLane]

Apologies all round here. I just made a dash to the shed in the dark and it is a 2.5ah battery.


Senility is rapidly catching me up.

[Citroënbender]

Say three jigsaws and a Lego, go forth and sin no more.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In terms of weight -

5.0Ah - 2.25 kg
2.5Ah - 1.3 kg

The 5.0Ah battery is certainly the heaviest part of my LB765 blower but still very manageable.

Another way you could go would be this kit -

https://www.totaltools.com.au/174368...-kit-st1521e-b

This would keep the weight down with the smaller batteries, but having two of them should keep you running and be handy if you add extra tools down the track. The only downside is the Standard Charger, which is slower to recharge the Rapid Charger.

Rapid Charger -
2.5 Ah Battery: 30-minutes
5.0 Ah Battery: 30-minutes

Standard Charger -
2.5 Ah Battery: 50-minutes
5.0 Ah Battery: 100-minutes

So battery weight is negligable. As in 1kg total is still not a deal breaker if its a lighter tool then the 2 stroke counterpart. So a 5ah battery should technically give twice the run time of a 2.5ah battery. It wont as heat is a factor, but it will run significantly longer.
So the way battery ratings work is pretty much. A 2.5ah battery on a constant load of 1A should last 2.5 hours. Same test at 1A, the 5ah should last 5 hours. Does that mean much towards actual use. Sort of but not really. Your battery equipment draws more then 1 amp. So in this case, a 2.5ah battery will deliver the same performance as a 5ah as they are the same voltage. The 5ah will provide longer run time.
Yes i know im just stating the obvious for people who already know, but for people who do not know, the amp hour rating of batteries is like a fuel tank for electric stuff. Yes bigger is heavier, but gets you longer use.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

So battery weight is negligable. As in 1kg total is still not a deal breaker if its a lighter tool then the 2 stroke counterpart. So a 5ah battery should technically give twice the run time of a 2.5ah battery. It wont as heat is a factor, but it will run significantly longer.
So the way battery ratings work is pretty much. A 2.5ah battery on a constant load of 1A should last 2.5 hours. Same test at 1A, the 5ah should last 5 hours. Does that mean much towards actual use. Sort of but not really. Your battery equipment draws more then 1 amp. So in this case, a 2.5ah battery will deliver the same performance as a 5ah as they are the same voltage. The 5ah will provide longer run time.
Yes i know im just stating the obvious for people who already know, but for people who do not know, the amp hour rating of batteries is like a fuel tank for electric stuff. Yes bigger is heavier, but gets you longer use.

The weight between comparable petrol and battery tools is not all that different. The actual tools themselves are feather light but add the battery and the battery gear will be the similar if not more than petrol powered machine with a full tank of fuel.

From memory, a Stihl BG86 blower is about the same weight as an EGO LB765 battery powered blower with the 5.0Ah battery.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

The weight between comparable petrol and battery tools is not all that different. The actual tools themselves are feather light but add the battery and the battery gear will be the similar if not more than petrol powered machine with a full tank of fuel.

From memory, a Stihl BG86 blower is about the same weight as an EGO LB765 battery powered blower with the 5.0Ah battery.

I was more getting at how battery ratings work. People often get confused on amp hours thinking more is more powerful. Its not, its just run time. Amp hours = run time. Then theres the whole, a 2 amp hour battery is faster to charge then a 5 amp hour battery. Depends on your charger and how anal you are. So im a big rc car guy. Im very anal about charging lipo batteries at 1:1. So my 3s batteries that are 4500mah i charge at 4.5 amps, my 4s 6000mah batteries i charge at 6 amps, my 6s 4500mah batteries i charge at 4.5 amps and my 6s 6000mah batteries i charge at 6 amps. They all take the same time to charge. Smart chargers do the maths for you with most power tool batteries. Rc car stuff is a tad different, but its nerd stuff.

[FASTXR]

Thanks DFB, I'd looked at and considered that other kit as well.

Maybe its w@nk factor but I really like the idea of the Line IQ on the more expensive model where there is no bump feeding required - it automatically feeds line out as you use it to maintain the correct length and from what I've seen it works pretty well.

[FASTXR]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

I was more getting at how battery ratings work. People often get confused on amp hours thinking more is more powerful. Its not, its just run time. Amp hours = run time.

Yep, I have a dual battery setup in my 4WD so all over amp hours. I'm one of those people who may never use all 4 or 5 amp hours with one of these machines but I like the thought that I have them regardless

[Interceptor]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Don't mess about, get a Stihl FS38 or FS45 (bent shaft) or the FS 55 (straight shaft). The FS38 should be all you need for about $220. Don't bother with the FS45 C-E, this is the assisted spring starter that is just something to go wrong, ask me how I know this, and most guys are strong enough to start a small 2-stroke without the spring assistance.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-38.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...584/FS-45.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-55-RC-E.aspx

Fwiw, the FS45 from everything I've been able to determine is a FS38 with a less restrictive exhaust outlet..... every FS38 that comes across my bench gets the exhaust insert drilled out to 8mm....

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I totally understand not wanting to deal with petrol/2-stroke machines, they can be extremely frustrating. Most of that comes down to improper storage over the cool season, the fuel gumming up in the fuel lines and carby from lack of use. This is easy to deal with, simply drain and run the engine till it dies to remove the fuel from the lines. You machine will then start correctly in the spring.

I resurrect a steady stream of Stihl FS38/45 trimmers I pick up from my local recycling centre, by far the majority of them have been dumped because of fuel/carby issues, so I give them a new carb, fuel lines & filter, air filter, spark plug and a fresh fill of line & fuel and send them back out the door for a small profit. Its a shame they are dumped because of neglect.

About 1 in 6 comes in with bigger problems in the form of a failed coil, usually backfiring through the carby.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FASTXR

Thanks DFB, I'd looked at and considered that other kit as well.

Maybe its w@nk factor but I really like the idea of the Line IQ on the more expensive model where there is no bump feeding required - it automatically feeds line out as you use it to maintain the correct length and from what I've seen it works pretty well.

I have used auto-feed heads on Stihl's before and absolutely hated the thing. That was mainly because of the lack of consistency, sometimes it would keep up, sometimes it would leave the engine screaming for line. I do like the line nice and long though, so not being able to manually advance the line is more critical to me.

Both models feature the speed feed head though.

[FASTXR]

Yep my now-deceased Ryobi had a standard bump feed head and I despised it with a passion. It was a pain to load (admittedly the 'wind on' loading systems seem to have taken over now) but what was worse was the number of times the line would bind and I'd have to pull the head apart to fix it.

I ended up getting one of the Littl Juey heads - https://littljuey.com.au/collections/line-trimmer-heads - which uses pre-cut lengths of line rather than spooled line and this was much better for my sanity.

To be honest, a proper, free-working head is probably top of my list of must-haves with a line trimmer.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FASTXR

Yep my now-deceased Ryobi had a standard bump feed head and I despised it with a passion. It was a pain to load (admittedly the 'wind on' loading systems seem to have taken over now) but what was worse was the number of times the line would bind and I'd have to pull the head apart to fix it.

I ended up getting one of the Littl Juey heads - https://littljuey.com.au/collections/line-trimmer-heads - which uses pre-cut lengths of line rather than spooled line and this was much better for my sanity.

To be honest, a proper, free-working head is probably top of my list of must-haves with a line trimmer.

I have to say, a line trimmer is my least favorite gardening power tool! And considering how much I use one, it's a case of choosing the least worst one.

That mainly stems from the line system, either loading or fixing a bound up head. And of course, it always runs out of line when you are in a hurry, just before finishing a job or when you are furthest away from the ute. Likewise when the head won't release line.

At the moment, I have swapped the standard fit Husqvarna T35X head and fitted a Speed Feed Head -

https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/...ump-feed-multi



And definitely don't get sucked into these sorts of heads that get advertised on daytime TV.................

[Citroënbender]

Not looked back since being guided here on a new easy-loading head. Zero regrets.

I’m guilty of flogging mine a bit hard (the trimmer, I mean!) and too often snapping off one line just at or inside the eyelet. But I’ve recently been doing literally hours of trimmer work on overgrown places, not holding an established edge. Places where the first tools should really be an edging spade, then a shovel.

Actually got some second-degree burns to my forearm from the motor heat after one job. Took over two weeks for the scabs to loosen up.

[.:4:.]

So my neighbor pays to get her grass done every fortnight. She doesnt pay for the premuim. So the bloke comes in, runs the snipper up and down the driveway, around the backyard fences, jumps on el toro to run over the driveway and yard then blows off the driveway. So no pickup or anything. So in and out in 20 minutes. But he doesnt do down the side or the pit which was where the semi above ground pool used to be. To be fair, i think thats all at extra cost.
So today my mate asks to borrow my whipper snipper to attack the pit of where the pool was. Thats fine, car hold was unlocked. My snipper has attachments and my mate knows how to change them. So that parts all good. So 5 minutes later the question was how to rotate the edger to act like a slasher? Short answer is you dont its an edger. But i do have a slasher blade. Just swap the attachment to the spool and swap the spool for the blade. So thats easy. I did point out theres a tonne of rubble under the overgrowth and blades will flick rocks. So my suggestion was just use the spool even if it goes through a bit of line. Well, my mate used the blade around the edge of the pit and after less then 5 went into the pit but the moment it flung a rock he shut the thing off and stuck his head over the fence. His statement was the slasher works awesome, then asked to swap back to line. No dramas there. So i have 2 quick feed spools, they take about 5m of 3mm line. Even though they only take 30 seconds to re spool when your hands arent sweaty, i have 2 because it takes no time flat to swap the empty spool over with a fresh one with sweaty hands. So my mate did nothing wrong in operating, but just rubble and thick weeds went through about 10m of line.
I dont care about that part. But what a night and day difference in my neighbors yard. She is like a second mum to me so i dont care about lending equipment to my mate and wearing the minor cost of disposables.
Im going to be devo'd when that ozito pmt-004 has a failure greater then a spark plug, fuel lines or primer bulb. For the $170 i paid (a tad extra for decent spools and the edger) it snips, slashes, hedges, pole saws and edges. Has the extention pole for the saw and hedger too. Shame other then basics its disposable.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

I've put this in here because, whilst it's not strictly mowing more so gardening, this thread gets good traffic and I didn't think this topic was worth starting a new thread for.

Following on from the discussion earlier, I'm in need of a good weed killer. I've moved on from using glyphosate-based products; they work very, very well, but I'm concerned about the potential side effects.

I have been using Seasol Earthcare organic weedkiller, and, whilst it is very quick acting, it clearly doesn't kill the roots and the weeds are back with a vengeance in no time.

I'm after a consumer level product that actually kills the weed/plant, roots and all.

I notice the local council uses a product that is a red/pinky kind of colour and seems to be very effective. I know that's not a lot to go on, but would anyone happen to know what that may be and if it is available at the consumer level?

Appreciate any suggestions.

[winkle]

The council would be putting a dye or marker into their spray so the numpties doing it can see where they've been. I have no issue using glyphosate - I think the dangers have been way overstated. There's plenty of research and articles on both sides of the argument. As long as you're semi careful, you should be right. I know plenty of farmers who have used it since it first became available (I'm the son of one) and they're all OK, seeing as none of them would have used any protection at all. I personally always wear long sleeve shirt and jeans and boots etc, but don't worry about a mask unless using my 3 metre tow behind boom spray. I usually use glyphosate in the hand held sprayer (I've got one of those Ryobi battery powered 7.5 litre jobs) and MCPA in the boom spray. I live on 1.5 acres which is mostly lawn (actually tame grass) and 3 applications of MCPA has cleaned up a pretty severe broadleaf problem in less that 12 months. It won't work on the likes of blackberry, but for lawn it's pretty good.

[Interceptor]

The problems with glyphosate come more from people using it contrary to directions than anything. If you think glyphosate is dangerous, google "How toxic is paraquat"

Any herbicide thats going to do a proper job is not going to be the friendliest of things to inhale or ingest, but with proper PPE and application control, you should be OK.

As for the pink/purple spray, its simply a dye.
https://www.mitre10.com.au/dy-mark-spray-marker-dye

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

I've put this in here because, whilst it's not strictly mowing more so gardening, this thread gets good traffic and I didn't think this topic was worth starting a new thread for.

Following on from the discussion earlier, I'm in need of a good weed killer. I've moved on from using glyphosate-based products; they work very, very well, but I'm concerned about the potential side effects.

I have been using Seasol Earthcare organic weedkiller, and, whilst it is very quick acting, it clearly doesn't kill the roots and the weeds are back with a vengeance in no time.

I'm after a consumer level product that actually kills the weed/plant, roots and all.

I notice the local council uses a product that is a red/pinky kind of colour and seems to be very effective. I know that's not a lot to go on, but would anyone happen to know what that may be and if it is available at the consumer level?

Appreciate any suggestions.

The active ingredient for Seasol Earthcare Organic Weedkiller is Nonanoic acid / Pelargonic acid, which is plant oil based. I have been using a similar product called Slasher a bit lately.



These weed killers do not require sunlight or heat to work, meaning they burn anything they touch almost instantly. The drawback to that is the foliage then doesn't transport the poison to the root system, leaving some weeds to reshoot. Annual weeds will often be killed by these products, however, perennial weeds will generally reshoot after a week or two.

In my case, I tend to pick the chemical for the weeds I want to kill. If I know I'm dealing with something like Couch or Kikuyu grass, its glyphosate. If its young, annual weeds, I hit them with Slasher.

I would say that if you are concerned about using Glyphosate, then wear long sleeved clothing and a respirator. Most of the issues with this chemical are from the vapors and not the residuals.

[Tonz]

when on the slasher, be sure to have your heavy metal gear on and headphones no one else wants to hear that.

[Rallye Sport]

I'd say try a pre emergent and stop them before they start but they're going to be on the same if not a higher schedule than gylph so if you're trying to stay away from the chems FGX, its not going to be for you.
Try an IPM approach with a few different techniques, choosing your battles. Soft and larger weeds can be manually pulled, turned in with a hoe or whipper snipped. Tougher ones will need a product but at a greatly reduced gross amount and risk. Timing is key hitting in maximum growth and getting to things before they can seed. Physical barriers can also help with grass and creeping weed invasion.

Originally Posted by Interceptor

The problems with glyphosate come more from people using it contrary to directions than anything.

Very true How often do you hear people saying "Yeah I double dosed it, soaked the **** out of them" All you've down is shocked the plant into shutdown and wasted time, product and money. Not to mention that if you do get caught out the EPA will not buy you dinner or use vaseline before, or during the reaming you'll cop.
What they should be doing is reading up on the use of additives like penetrants or surfactants for a better kill.
We've got very alkaline water here which can render glyph almost useless, we always use a pH buffer and the results are remarkable, less product used, faster knockdown and more effective on a wider variety of stubborn species.

[Rallye Sport]

Originally Posted by Tonz

when on the slasher, be sure to have your heavy metal gear on and headphones no one else wants to hear that.

That'd be Slayer, dude

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

when on the slasher, be sure to have your heavy metal gear on and headphones no one else wants to hear that.

Originally Posted by Rallye Sport

That'd be Slayer, dude

I have no idea who or what you are both talking about, so I will have to take your word for it.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have no idea who or what you are both talking about, so I will have to take your word for it.

So I guess that Twisted Sister means nothing as well?

[Rallye Sport]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have no idea who or what you are both talking about, so I will have to take your word for it.

Slasher kills weeds.
Slayer kills ears.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Rallye Sport

Slasher kills weeds.
Slayer kills ears.

No further comment!

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

I've put this in here because, whilst it's not strictly mowing more so gardening, this thread gets good traffic and I didn't think this topic was worth starting a new thread for.

Following on from the discussion earlier, I'm in need of a good weed killer. I've moved on from using glyphosate-based products; they work very, very well, but I'm concerned about the potential side effects.

I have been using Seasol Earthcare organic weedkiller, and, whilst it is very quick acting, it clearly doesn't kill the roots and the weeds are back with a vengeance in no time.

I'm after a consumer level product that actually kills the weed/plant, roots and all.

I notice the local council uses a product that is a red/pinky kind of colour and seems to be very effective. I know that's not a lot to go on, but would anyone happen to know what that may be and if it is available at the consumer level?

Appreciate any suggestions.

Any of the modern organic alternatives (pelargonic/nonanoic acid/pine oil etc)do basically the same thing. They are an oil or acid that busts open the leaf cell causing it to dry out. None of these are killing the roots in any way. Depending on the type of plant, a milk thistle which is soft with a tap root will die, but couch or kikuyu will die off above ground and reshoot a week later from the existing roots. This is the price you pay for “organic”.
The council will be using glyphosate with a dye and probably a wetting agent so it bites into the leaves, I suspect some of the more expensive glypho concentrates contain wetters/surfactants (confirmed by the reps who sell them) but their presence isn’t listed on the label as an ingredient.
When used as directed glyphosate is highly effective when you are only using 10ml per lt for 360gl strength, but the nonanoic products need 70ml/lt.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Any of the modern organic alternatives (pelargonic/nonanoic acid/pine oil etc)do basically the same thing. They are an oil or acid that busts open the leaf cell causing it to dry out. None of these are killing the roots in any way. Depending on the type of plant, a milk thistle which is soft with a tap root will die, but couch or kikuyu will die off above ground and reshoot a week later from the existing roots. This is the price you pay for “organic”.
The council will be using glyphosate with a dye and probably a wetting agent so it bites into the leaves, I suspect some of the more expensive glypho concentrates contain wetters/surfactants (confirmed by the reps who sell them) but their presence isn’t listed on the label as an ingredient.
When used as directed glyphosate is highly effective when you are only using 10ml per lt for 360gl strength, but the nonanoic products need 70ml/lt.

And stink to high heaven!

[Citroënbender]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

No further comment!

It’s funny, my mind went the other way and now I have “Ace of Spades” as an earworm.

I’m a minimalist with glyphosate, as discussed here before I use a very direct, gentle spray applied carefully to the topic area so there’s no mist to scatter.