Mowing ..

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Thanks for everyone's feedback.

Wrt my preference to not use glyphosate, I don't have enough knowledge to make my own judgement on it, but the company I work for (a large national company with many operational sites) has banned the use of it across all of its sites. That's enough for me to not want to use unless I'm left with no other practical options.

Just to put my request into context, I took a few pics yesterday to help explain what I'm after.

This is my outdoor area that I want to control weeds in. I want everything gone, so an indiscriminate weed killer works perfectly. The larger weeds I can remove by hand, but some of them are very labour intensive and I also want to get any young weeds before they get big enough to remove by hand.



A close up showing some of the weed types. I've got no idea what they are, just that I don't want them and they come back on strength when I use the seasol. The ones in the lower left of the pic are a pain. When you try to pull them out, they have multiple stems growing from the root and the root is pretty deep. Trying to pull these out by hand just removes the stems and rarely gets the root out. Hence, they grow back very quickly.



I did this area by hand yesterday, but I have a feeling that I'm not getting the roots out as the weeds return in about two weeks. Again, I'd like to spray to try and kill the roots and prevent them coming back for a bit longer than two weeks.



And, along the border between the rocked area and the lawn, I get sprouts of what I think is kikuya. I try pulling these back to the runners as best I can, but there are some spots where the runners are buried and I can't pull them back to the lawn. Again, a spray that kills the roots would be good. Selective application of glyphosate would be appropriate in this instance.



Hope that helps explain my situation a bit better.

[kevino]

Boiling water and salt will knock those off

[Citroënbender]

I can understand a company blanket-banning glyphosate as they’re not going to be able to enforce any guidelines for safe application. Add idiots to that, and you’ve got more than enough reasons.

In your own situation, if you avoid misting and skin contact you’ve basically insured yourself against risk. A dropper or small spray bottle set to a jet, with 360g/l glyphosate diluted per recommendations, will fix your weeds.

Best application time IMO is a still air morning leading to a (forecast) warm day, after a night with minimal dew. Effects can take a month to fully show; some yellowing will be observed within seven days but full extent of success takes longer to observe.

You can also physically burn some weeds (the roots, once loosened in the soil) with a blowtorch. It’s a bit bogan but works well. Onion weed is a good candidate for this method, as is asparagus fern.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks for everyone's feedback.

Wrt my preference to not use glyphosate, I don't have enough knowledge to make my own judgement on it, but the company I work for (a large national company with many operational sites) has banned the use of it across all of its sites. That's enough for me to not want to use unless I'm left with no other practical options.

Just to put my request into context, I took a few pics yesterday to help explain what I'm after.

This is my outdoor area that I want to control weeds in. I want everything gone, so an indiscriminate weed killer works perfectly. The larger weeds I can remove by hand, but some of them are very labour intensive and I also want to get any young weeds before they get big enough to remove by hand.

image

A close up showing some of the weed types. I've got no idea what they are, just that I don't want them and they come back on strength when I use the seasol. The ones in the lower left of the pic are a pain. When you try to pull them out, they have multiple stems growing from the root and the root is pretty deep. Trying to pull these out by hand just removes the stems and rarely gets the root out. Hence, they grow back very quickly.

image

I did this area by hand yesterday, but I have a feeling that I'm not getting the roots out as the weeds return in about two weeks. Again, I'd like to spray to try and kill the roots and prevent them coming back for a bit longer than two weeks.

image

And, along the border between the rocked area and the lawn, I get sprouts of what I think is kikuya. I try pulling these back to the runners as best I can, but there are some spots where the runners are buried and I can't pull them back to the lawn. Again, a spray that kills the roots would be good. Selective application of glyphosate would be appropriate in this instance.

image

Hope that helps explain my situation a bit better.

All of the weeds present in your pics warrant the use of glyphosate, especially the kikuyu! Using knockdown type weed killers here means you need to apply a chemical more often, in theory exposing you to a chemical more often as well. This compares to safe, semi-regular applications of glyphosate.

A couple of things to consider when using glyphosate -

- Wear rubber gloves when mixing AND applying the product.
- Always mix as directed
- Wear long sleeve clothing
- Wear a respirator if you feel the need
- Wind out the spray adjuster to apply a heavier droplet, this reduces the fine vapor that can be carried with a breeze
- Apply when the weeds are dry
- Apply on a still, ideally sunny day

If you want to avoid spraying the product, then invest in a weed wand. These allow you to "paint" the weeds rather than spraying them, avoiding the risk of spray mist.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-ze...brush_p3019880





If you follow those directions, the product is safe. As others have mentioned, when you start moving away from those recommendations, that's when you expose yourself to the chemical.

[Tonz]

hire some gardener in to do the job.
Iam uneducated but that pic of Kykuyu (thats how I spell it.) kikuya is a spreading root system and that concrete edging will do nothing to stop them sprading. Metal/plast edging about 200mm wide pushed in around the edge would stop the spread.

[Interceptor]

In your situation of the weeds & grassy rubbish in the gravel area, I've used a product called arsenal to great effect, catch is that its expensive and difficult to find in small quantities.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by Interceptor

In your situation of the weeds & grassy rubbish in the gravel area, I've used a product called arsenal to great effect, catch is that its expensive and difficult to find in small quantities.

And it lasts for 6 months, probably not what you want to use if you are worrying about (non residual) glyphosate.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I relented yesterday and went and bought some Zero concentrate. Not the organic based stuff (triple strike https://www.yates.com.au/yates-1l-ze...r-concentrate/) but the glyphosate based stuff. Considered the triple strike but it was essentially the same price for the same size container but the mix ratio was much higher. Given my run of not having much success with the organic based stuff, and even though the triple strike claims to kill the roots, I decided the glyphosate was the way to go.

I also purchased some P2 masks at the same time. The tips in here on usage and PPE were great, so thanks again for that info.

Originally Posted by Tonz

hire some gardener in to do the job.
Iam uneducated but that pic of Kykuyu (thats how I spell it.) kikuya is a spreading root system and that concrete edging will do nothing to stop them sprading. Metal/plast edging about 200mm wide pushed in around the edge would stop the spread.

Yep, soz, kikuyu. Spelling on my phone is a little hit and miss at times

The border between the lawn and stone area is just a timber edge, Tonz. Not ideal at all for kikuyu, but, to be honest, in the two years I've been in the property, it hasn't been too bad. In my previous place, I replaced the timber edging with paved edges and that was much better. But, I think the difference here was in the previous place, the lawn bordered mulched garden beds and the kikuyu loved that environment. The rock area doesn't seem to be a favoured place for the kikuyu so I only get little tufts of it near the edging as opposed to runners through the rocks.

If I was going to stay in the place for a while longer, I'd replace the edges with pavers and also do up the rocked area as the rocks are far more maintenance intensive than I had expected. But, I'm not sure what I'll be doing in twelve months time at this stage, so the garden will remain as it is.

The place that I have trouble with the kikuyu is the boundary fence at the back of the fruit tree garden where the kikuyu comes in either through the fence or under the fence plinth and into the mulch. The runners will be up to six feet before they come up above the surface to be spotted and removed/sprayed.

[FTE217]

On ya Foxy, get the real stuff
Any of the this eco friendly stuff for me just isn't as effective for me and a waste of my time and effort.
For the amount of time I have to spend regards to the size of my yard and garden beds Round Up is my go to full stop period, I know them weeds are gonna die !

[Tonz]

was doing a cashie for a farmer few years ago. 20Litre Industrial Roundup was part payment.. die you suckers literally

[Citroënbender]

My Echo pole pruner from this thread in January, is finally doing some work. It cuts quite well; you notice the extra weight of a modular system tool versus a dedicated one but in smaller doses this isn’t a problem. Of my $300 purchase price, reckon I’ve had at least $75 of use already.

[danzvtil]

Masport president 1000 battery mower review time.
Was at mums helping tidy up for the family on Easter Monday. I was clipping the ficus and conifer topiaries, spreading the cuttings out and mowing them up. The battery mower went well over them, you could feel the load sensing increase revs when needed, and the catcher fully filled multiple times.
Small downside:only 2 blades, so not a huge amount of lift, some leaf residue was being left behind where a petrol machine would have sucked it up.
But on the positive, the old lady it was bought for loves it, light weight, and no yanking on a starter cord, she can do the whole 300sqm of whispy kik on one charge. The other positive is, being easy to use it’s getting cut more often. The old girl is 73 this means I’ve bought another 5 years of NOT having to do her lawn for her.

[danzvtil]

I have 2 stihl BG86 blowers, the newest one only 12months old, just went in for warranty repair, came back running like ****e. In its defence it’s done countless hours screaming away. In a fit of rage I bought a husqvarna 525BX. Just like most current model blowers it seemed to not rev as hard as I like, so I fanagled the high end rev screw and it gained some top end so happy days. The only feed back I have over the stihl, is it’s slower to rev up, but once it gets there, has plenty of power.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

I have 2 stihl BG86 blowers, the newest one only 12months old, just went in for warranty repair, came back running like ****e. In its defence it’s done countless hours screaming away. In a fit of rage I bought a husqvarna 525BX. Just like most current model blowers it seemed to not rev as hard as I like, so I fanagled the high end rev screw and it gained some top end so happy days. The only feed back I have over the stihl, is it’s slower to rev up, but once it gets there, has plenty of power.

Funny, I've been running my 525BX a bit now the weather has cooled. I did the same thing and opened up the high-speed jet. I also note the slower throttle response in reaching full speed.

I wonder why these companies are choking down leaf blowers?

I recently used the older BG85, which were an all-new model back in about 2002. That thing positively screamed. The BG86 that came a few years later added anti-vibration and the easy-2-start feature. These earlier 86's maintained the performance of the 85, although at some stage in the last couple of years, they have choked them down.

I'm guessing it's to meet noise pollution in addition to emissions. And the hot start issues that plague both Stilh and Husqvarna's seem to be from sealing up the fuel system more, making them run like crap and have hot start problems. Frustrating.

[Citroënbender]

Plant ID help would be appreciated, please. I think it’s a Ficus of some variety, intended for training or topiary. White sap runs freely from cut limbs:

(Another gem from the decade-of-neglect garden with grass filled planter beds and a free-ranging Viburnum hedge.)

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Plant ID help would be appreciated, please. I think it’s a Ficus of some variety, intended for training or topiary. White sap runs freely from cut limbs:

image

(Another gem from the decade-of-neglect garden with grass filled planter beds and a free-ranging Viburnum hedge.)

Most likely Ficus Emerald Green or similar. The white spotting/flecks on the older stems give it away. Wear gloves and eye protection when pruning, the sap is highly toxic/irritable.

It's also got a nice does of sooty mold, the byproduct of an aphid infestation. White oil or Trifend should sort that out.

[Citroënbender]

Thanks - I found out the hard way, about the sap when I got some on my wrist.

[roKWiz]

Worked on the little L110. New filters, carby kit installed, readjust the governor and gave the green machine a good detail, installed the new JD seat.





DFB favourite engine, not.









Even managed to find a covered place for him out of the weather.



Don't like wasting stuff so the old seat is recycled doing duty as a little work seat.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Worked on the little L110. New filters, carby kit installed, readjust the governor and gave the green machine a good detail, installed the new JD seat.

image

image

DFB favourite engine, not.

image

image

image

image

Even managed to find a covered place for him out of the weather.

image

Don't like wasting stuff so the old seat is recycled doing duty as a little work seat.

image

Nice and tidy, but it needs one of these....................................

https://tarylfixesall.bigcartel.com/...ohler-stickers

[Citroënbender]

The “RokWiz bucket seat” looks like an emergency toilet!

[Interceptor]

While we're on the topic of JD ride-ons, has anyone had problems in the past with the briggs motors being miserable things to start?

IIRC its a L100 with a 17hp briggs single cylinder motor

Friend has one that will run all day like a champ once you can start it, standard battery is hopeless, tot he point where we use a N200 batter and jumper leads straight onto the starter to get it to crank over!

Are the starter motors a known weak point?

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by Interceptor

While we're on the topic of JD ride-ons, has anyone had problems in the past with the briggs motors being miserable things to start?

IIRC its a L100 with a 17hp briggs single cylinder motor

Friend has one that will run all day like a champ once you can start it, standard battery is hopeless, tot he point where we use a N200 batter and jumper leads straight onto the starter to get it to crank over!

Are the starter motors a known weak point?

Might give him some answers...

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Interceptor

While we're on the topic of JD ride-ons, has anyone had problems in the past with the briggs motors being miserable things to start?

IIRC its a L100 with a 17hp briggs single cylinder motor

Friend has one that will run all day like a champ once you can start it, standard battery is hopeless, tot he point where we use a N200 batter and jumper leads straight onto the starter to get it to crank over!

Are the starter motors a known weak point?

From what I have learned, it's probably a broken decompressor on the camshaft or valves out of alignment.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

From what I have learned, it's probably a broken decompressor on the camshaft or valves out of alignment.

He discusses that in the video.

[Citroënbender]

Because it often becomes something of a “outdoor power equipment” thread generally, looking for thoughts on the Makita EK8100 demo saw, which would be bought new.

I know it’s seen as underpowered compared to Husky or Stihl, but is that a reasonable perspective or just an enthusiasm for larger displacement saws? My first project is cutting up a “concrete” pool, which may in fact be that cement/sand paste the Americans call gunite.

[Citroënbender]

How has your chemical warfare panned out?

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I relented yesterday and went and bought some Zero concentrate. Not the organic based stuff (triple strike https://www.yates.com.au/yates-1l-ze...r-concentrate/) but the glyphosate based stuff. Considered the triple strike but it was essentially the same price for the same size container but the mix ratio was much higher. Given my run of not having much success with the organic based stuff, and even though the triple strike claims to kill the roots, I decided the glyphosate was the way to go.

I also purchased some P2 masks at the same time. The tips in here on usage and PPE were great, so thanks again for that info.



Yep, soz, kikuyu. Spelling on my phone is a little hit and miss at times

The border between the lawn and stone area is just a timber edge, Tonz. Not ideal at all for kikuyu, but, to be honest, in the two years I've been in the property, it hasn't been too bad. In my previous place, I replaced the timber edging with paved edges and that was much better. But, I think the difference here was in the previous place, the lawn bordered mulched garden beds and the kikuyu loved that environment. The rock area doesn't seem to be a favoured place for the kikuyu so I only get little tufts of it near the edging as opposed to runners through the rocks.

If I was going to stay in the place for a while longer, I'd replace the edges with pavers and also do up the rocked area as the rocks are far more maintenance intensive than I had expected. But, I'm not sure what I'll be doing in twelve months time at this stage, so the garden will remain as it is.

The place that I have trouble with the kikuyu is the boundary fence at the back of the fruit tree garden where the kikuyu comes in either through the fence or under the fence plinth and into the mulch. The runners will be up to six feet before they come up above the surface to be spotted and removed/sprayed.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

How has your chemical warfare panned out?

Bit of an each way bet on this one.

Planned to mow my lawns last Saturday and realised late that I MAY just have time to get some 'weed management' product distributed and time for it to take effect before the predicted rain came. Product said it needed 6 hours before rain. I distributed at about 1030 and rain was predicted at about 6pm so figured I had enough time. Rain came at about 3 to 4 pm. A little earlier than I was hoping for. But, the initial rain wasn't very heavy for the first few hours, only accumulating a mm or so in the first couple of hours.

I am starting to see the effects of it on the unwanted flora but it's hard to tell how effective it's been just yet as we're only 5 days in.

On the other hand, I had a complete fail from an OH&S perspective. Me being me, once I realised that I had time, if I was quick about it, I jumped straight in to getting the flora control done. Silly me forgot to take any precautions and I soon found myself pouring the product into my 20ml measuring cup and then pouring that into the pressure sprayer. Naturally, the product came out rather quickly in a large glob, soon flooding the measuring cup and pouring all over my hand. That was the point that I remembered about the PPE requirements So, I washed up, donned all of my PPE and resumed the task. So much for me being concerned about being exposed to the stuff! Or leading by example as a Health and Safety Rep

[Citroënbender]

If the air was dry, your poison had probably set to the foliage enough to not have rain issues. Bugger about the skin contact.

[Interceptor]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

On the other hand, I had a complete fail from an OH&S perspective. Me being me, once I realised that I had time, if I was quick about it, I jumped straight in to getting the flora control done. Silly me forgot to take any precautions and I soon found myself pouring the product into my 20ml measuring cup and then pouring that into the pressure sprayer. Naturally, the product came out rather quickly in a large glob, soon flooding the measuring cup and pouring all over my hand. That was the point that I remembered about the PPE requirements So, I washed up, donned all of my PPE and resumed the task. So much for me being concerned about being exposed to the stuff! Or leading by example as a Health and Safety Rep

Not having a shot at you here, but this is what I was talking about how all the problems with these chemicals come about..... all it takes is one break in the chain and bang...... theres a problem

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Planned to mow my lawns last Saturday and realised late that I MAY just have time to get some 'weed management' product distributed and time for it to take effect before the predicted rain came. Product said it needed 6 hours before rain. I distributed at about 1030 and rain was predicted at about 6pm so figured I had enough time. Rain came at about 3 to 4 pm. A little earlier than I was hoping for. But, the initial rain wasn't very heavy for the first few hours, only accumulating a mm or so in the first couple of hours.

I am starting to see the effects of it on the unwanted flora but it's hard to tell how effective it's been just yet as we're only 5 days in.

I think you will be fine with that.

Depending on the g/L strength of the glyphosate, it can take longer for a visible effect to show when the days get colder and less sunny.