Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 78

**GasoLane** · 03-02-2023, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

It's very hard to be critical of any of your posts, DFB, as, even if I don't agree with (very few of) them in their entirety, they're usually very informative, well thought out, and well presented.

BUT, can you please use 'tyre' and not 'tire'? We're not a minor island of the States. Yet!

Seppo spell checker?

**DFB FGXR6** · 03-02-2023, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

It's very hard to be critical of any of your posts, DFB, as, even if I don't agree with (very few of) them in their entirety, they're usually very informative, well thought out, and well presented.

BUT, can you please use 'tyre' and not 'tire'? We're not a minor island of the States. Yet!

Yeah, sorry about that, it's something that frustrates me too, converting words and measurements depending on my audience location.

I typically type my posts and then copy/paste them into the various threads and forums I contribute to. Sometimes, the original copy is typed on an American forum, which of course then transfers regional specific spelling to the Aussie ones and vice versa. Usually, I correct this before submitting the post, on this occasion I was feeling lazy.

**FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0** · 03-02-2023, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Yeah, sorry about that, it's something that frustrates me too, converting words and measurements depending on my audience location.

I typically type my posts and then copy/paste them into the various threads and forums I contribute to. Sometimes, the original copy is typed on an American forum, which of course then transfers regional specific spelling to the Aussie ones and vice versa. Usually, I correct this before submitting the post, on this occasion I was feeling lazy.

Nah, all good, mate, just thought you were turning Seppo on us

Like I said, if that's all I can find to critique you on with all the posts you do here, you're doing pretty well. Hope you didn't take my comments seriously, coz that's not the way it was intended.

Keep up the great work.

**DFB FGXR6** · 03-02-2023, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Nah, all good, mate, just thought you were turning Seppo on us

Like I said, if that's all I can find to critique you on with all the posts you do here, you're doing pretty well. Hope you didn't take my comments seriously, coz that's not the way it was intended.

Keep up the great work.

Not at all, although I'm very analytical so tend to overexplain myself.

**DJM83** · 04-02-2023, 03:48 PM

So stupid me, i ran out of the Poorboys wheel cleaner i have. Worked very well on my Ute, on the missus car it needed a bit more agitation as it gets driven more.
We are going away in a few days and i have an OCD thing where the car needs to be spotless before we go.
Thought after the success of the Gyeon wet coat i thought id give this a go

Now bearing in mind, my ute has done about 80kms since the Wet coat went on so they it wasnt the best test subject
In this case they required no agitation at all.

Let it sit for a minute or 2
Hose off.

So tommorrow ill be cleaning the better halfs car and attacking these with it.
They dont look like this at the moment

I think the next thing will be a decent small wheel brush.

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-02-2023, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

So stupid me, i ran out of the Poorboys wheel cleaner i have. Worked very well on my Ute, on the missus car it needed a bit more agitation as it gets driven more.
We are going away in a few days and i have an OCD thing where the car needs to be spotless before we go.
Thought after the success of the Gyeon wet coat i thought id give this a go
image

Now bearing in mind, my ute has done about 80kms since the Wet coat went on so they it wasnt the best test subject
In this case they required no agitation at all.
image
Let it sit for a minute or 2
Hose off.
image
So tommorrow ill be cleaning the better halfs car and attacking these with it.
They dont look like this at the moment

image
I think the next thing will be a decent small wheel brush.

Do Gyeon try and hide the stench of that wheel cleaner with a scent like NV Purge or Carpro IronX?

For wheel brushes, you want a boars hair brush for the wheel face and lugs. Do not buy a wooden handle brush for this job, they do not like being wet so often.

(You want the long handle version)
https://autobuff.com.au/products/det...32065516929137
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ium-boars-hair

The Bowden's brush set is ok, not great but gets the job done.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...=bowdens%20own

To gain access to the barrels of those Hyundai wheels, you will be needing a bristled brush like these EZ-Detail brushes.

(You want the larger one)
https://autobuff.com.au/products/ez-...04c307a3&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-of-all-wheels

**DJM83** · 04-02-2023, 04:57 PM

Thanks for the advice mate.
Nah that Gyeon stinks like all get out, i left it in the kitchen at home and went out for a bit. Could smell it when i got home

Will suss out some of those brushes, i think some more wet coat will be needed on the wheels on the Tucson. Car was coated already.

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-02-2023, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

Thanks for the advice mate.
Nah that Gyeon stinks like all get out, i left it in the kitchen at home and went out for a bit. Could smell it when i got home

Will suss out some of those brushes, i think some more wet coat will be needed on the wheels on the Tucson. Car was coated already.

I thought so. I have Gyeon Iron and it's not scented either.

I hate using iron removers, the smell lingers with me for days.

**anobserver** · 05-02-2023, 07:51 AM

Chemical guys featured during the Bathurst 12hr coverage. Shown with a bunch of cars on display.

**DFB FGXR6** · 05-02-2023, 10:09 PM

Dish Washing Detergent as a Strip Wash -

Using dishwashing detergent to "strip" or remove wax has been a pet hate of mine for a long time. Those that do use it, usually do so along the lines of "I don't need to buy some fancy soap to strip wax when I can just use some cheap dish washing detergent".

This video explains why using dish wash as a stripping agent is flawed -

(From 6.25min)

So, instead of removing the wax, the detergent is actually coating it with something else, disguising the wax or sealant still remaining underneath.

This becomes an issue if you intend to apply a fresh coat of wax directly after the wash, as it will prevent the product from bonding properly with the paint. If you go on to polish the paint before reapplication, that detergent residue has the ability to impede the effectiveness of the polish compound and pad.

On the flipside, if you use a clay bar after the wash, that may remove some of the residue, likewise an IPA wipe down prior to polishing/waxing will knock some of the residue back too.

But the whole use of dish washing liquid really is counter intuitive. The whole point of the exercise is to strip or remove paint contamination and waxes. Except, you end up doing the complete opposite as dish wash by nature is designed to leave something behind. So, you end up wasting your time.

Effective Strip Washing -

Most detailing brands offer specific products for this role. Typically, these are high pH alkaline soaps, although some are on the acidic side like Carpro Descale. The concept is the same though, using a higher or lower pH increases the cleaning ability, cutting through old waxes and sealants in the process. The acidic ones can also help remove or diminish water spots.

Alkaline Soaps -

Carpro Lift -
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...32379093680217

NV Snow+ -
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv...nt=17821163396

Obsessed Garage Decontamination Soap -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ba722a53&_ss=r

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ash-touch-less

Adam’s Strip Wash -
https://adamspolishes.com.au/collect...rip-wash-16-oz

Bowden's Mega Snow Job (mild alkaline) -
https://www.bowdensown.com.au/mega-snow-job

Alkaline Soaps can also be created by boosting your regular pH neutral soap with an All-Purpose-Cleaner, in fact Koch Chemie recommend this method by adding Green Star to GSF. The only drawback here is that you create some variability in your mixture.

Acidic Soaps -

Carpro Descale -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40057466191961

Gyeon Restart -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-restart-reset

**DFB FGXR6** · 08-02-2023, 08:48 PM

Two interesting Waxit sales at the moment.

First, they are offering 20% off the entire NV range, code 'NV20' at checkout.
The sale runs until Sunday 12th of Feb.

Secondly, they have Wolfgang on clearance. If you like the brand, then perhaps consider stocking up to save having to import them.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...OZgU%3D.MeSg3g

I have only ever used one Wolfgang product, Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=641815269

The gloss and slickness of freshly applied DGPS is magical. The product does have its quirks though. After applying a thin coat to the entire car, you need to leave the product for 45 minutes before starting the buff off. It then needs to cure for 12 hours without exposure to moisture or rain, like a ceramic coating. But the results speak for themselves...............

**DFB FGXR6** · 13-02-2023, 04:28 PM

A heads up for those who have been looking forward to trying Carpro's new Reload 2.0, Waxit now have it in stock.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40406212182105

Reload 2.0 is said to offer improved gloss and water repellency, increased self-cleaning ability while also offering extended durability, up to 3-months on a daily driver. It can be used across all vehicle surfaces, including wheels and rubber trim. Reload can be a standalone sealant or a maintenance topper for a ceramic coating.

**fordomatic** · 13-02-2023, 04:59 PM

Was a fan of reload for about 6 months, then after forking out the $ for Jet and Lustre, i'll never go back. The longevity of Reload was terrible for a car out in the weather. My old S3 XR8 I coated with CQ UK3 (which I also disliked) I used Reload as the recommended topper but it'd last 3 washes max.

Can't speak highly enough of the longevity of Lustre. I've had it last 8 months on my Sportsman that isn't garaged.

**DFB FGXR6** · 13-02-2023, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Was a fan of reload for about 6 months, then after forking out the $ for Jet and Lustre, i'll never go back. The longevity of Reload was terrible for a car out in the weather. My old S3 XR8 I coated with CQ UK3 (which I also disliked) I used Reload as the recommended topper but it'd last 3 washes max.

Can't speak highly enough of the longevity of Lustre. I've had it last 8 months on my Sportsman that isn't garaged.

Similar experience for me, using Reload for a while and then jumped into Lustre & Jet. In my case, I then went right back to waxes and sealants for a while, now I'm into coatings.

A key improvement they were aiming for in Reload 2.0 was increased longevity, so hopefully that plays out. I always liked the way Reload looked and felt, but yes, longevity on a daily was limited.

**DFB FGXR6** · 16-02-2023, 05:53 PM

Incoming: Waxit Order number 495,329................................

CyberWasp · 16-02-2023, 07:55 PM

Will Reload work with the HyrO2?
Which way around would it have to be applied?

**DFB FGXR6** · 16-02-2023, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Will Reload work with the HyrO2?
Which way around would it have to be applied?

Ideally, you would Reload first and then maintain with Hydr02. Both are silica based so it probably doesn't matter.

Mr Brooksy · 21-02-2023, 12:02 PM

I hope you guys don't mind me asking here, I've read a bunch of the pages (not all, there's just too many) and you all have amazing knowledge and skills. I've only really been learning how to polish over the past few years on my own cars with decent success, but nothing like the beautiful work I've seen here like DFBs amazing cars.

Anyway the reason I'm posting is that I've been given a black 2011 Lancer with VERY low kms to clean up and sell for an old lady from church. She bought it new and has barely used it and it's in really good condition. However it has a few really bad water blemishes scattered around the place on a relatively markless paint job... And a disastrous rear wing, clear coat looks like the surface of the moon, which if I'm in honest is pretty unsalvageable in my opinion.

What products can I get my hands on fairly easily that will remove unsightly water marks?

Background: I've already done a clay bar all over the car, used auto Glym magma, a paint cleaner run over the entire car, and used a very light cutting compound on the bad blemishes only... And the water marks have not shifted at all! Everything else looks great, but I do NOT want to go really abrasive and damage the paint or worse.

I'm at a loss, and any help would be appreciated.

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-02-2023, 04:22 PM

Carpro Reload 2.0

Today was my first try of a product that I have been keen to try since it was announced late in 2022, Carpro Reload 2.0.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40406212149337

Carpro Reload was one of the original spray ceramic sealants and offered ceramic coating-like gloss, slickness and water behavior. Reload was designed as a protective layer for freshly applied coatings and as a maintenance product to extend the life of an existing coating. Over the years, despite a few minor updates, it's application and durability did come into question as newer and improved rivals emerged.

I used Reload as a stand-alone coating for a number of years, enjoying it's qualities and easy application. Keep in mind, my use of LSP's to that point had centered around paste or liquid waxes and sealants that really needed a certain degree of effort to apply. Durability was never an issue for me, mainly because of how my cars are used and stored, but also how simply reapplication was.

But, as the competition exploded, Carpro needed to update Reload to keep it relevant..............Reload 2.0 is the result, which was released in Australia mid February.

The main improvements centered around improving the application process and durability. Quoted longevity is up to 3-months on a daily driver, expect much longer on cars that are regularly topped with a drying aid. It can be applied to dry or damp surfaces, on paint, glass, un-painted plastic, rubber trim and wheels. Versatility is a big selling point then. I especially like the appearance Reload imparts on unpainted black plastic trims, subtle and rich.

Application of Reload 2.0 is simple; using two towels, prime the first towel with product and then apply a small amount directly to the paint, working section by section. Wipe with the damp towel, wait 30 seconds and then buff with the dry second towel. (I will note that I gave the car a wipe down with Eraser beforehand.)

From what I observed applying Reload 2.0 to my white Ranger, the newer version seemed to lack the somewhat streaky nature of the original and required far less buffing to perfect. The "glassy" gloss and slickness are Reloads hallmarks, as is the strong, although not unpleasant, chemical aroma.

Although this is not a final verdict on Reload 2.0, I still need to try it on a less forgiving colour, but I think the new version is sufficiently improved to warrant a second look. With two ceramic coated vehicles in circulation now, for me it's use will be greater than in the past couple of years.

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-02-2023, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Brooksy

I hope you guys don't mind me asking here, I've read a bunch of the pages (not all, there's just too many) and you all have amazing knowledge and skills. I've only really been learning how to polish over the past few years on my own cars with decent success, but nothing like the beautiful work I've seen here like DFBs amazing cars.

Anyway the reason I'm posting is that I've been given a black 2011 Lancer with VERY low kms to clean up and sell for an old lady from church. She bought it new and has barely used it and it's in really good condition. However it has a few really bad water blemishes scattered around the place on a relatively markless paint job... And a disastrous rear wing, clear coat looks like the surface of the moon, which if I'm in honest is pretty unsalvageable in my opinion.

What products can I get my hands on fairly easily that will remove unsightly water marks?

Background: I've already done a clay bar all over the car, used auto Glym magma, a paint cleaner run over the entire car, and used a very light cutting compound on the bad blemishes only... And the water marks have not shifted at all! Everything else looks great, but I do NOT want to go really abrasive and damage the paint or worse.

I'm at a loss, and any help would be appreciated.

Water spots are a pain to deal with, mainly because they are so variable depending on the minerals that caused the damage, ambient temps when they occurred and the overall time they have been there.

Typically, polishing them out is the last resort and even then, they can still remain, especially if they have been there for an extended period.

In your case, I would go back a few steps in an attempt to remove the minerals that have caused the damage in the first place. There are a number of water spot removers on the market, most of which are sold via specialty detailing retailers. However, and I can't believe I'm going to recommend this, but Supercheap offer a Chemical Guys product that would be readily available. Otherwise, order some Carpro Spotless 2.0 or Gyeon Water Spot Remover.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...ml/648977.html
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...1f841583&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702345949

These products are acidic to counter the effects of minerals that have etched into the clear coat. An alternative to these products is to use white vinegar, starting with a 50/50 blend with water and progress to 100% if needed. Again, it's the acid in the vinegar that does the job.

After removing the embedded minerals from the paint, this is where polishing will be needed to refine the finish. Can I ask what light polishing compound you used? You may need to step up your aggression on the areas affected with a heavier compound.

Depending on what you used, you could try Scholl S20 Black or Sonax Perfect Finish one-step compounds on a cutting pad. (Both of these can be increased and decreased depending on pad used.) Stepping up even further would be Sonax Cutmax or Rupes DA Coarse.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sc...40136429043801
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...2b0249e0&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...c4574ca0&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...32113755291737

For readily available options look at the following -

Rupes DA Coarse -
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/r...shing-compound

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (very hard to work with, I would favor the Rupes above) -
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...ars%20compound

Bowden's have a good write up on this subject here -
https://www.bowdensown.com.au/blog/w...what-can-i-do/

prydey · 21-02-2023, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Carpro Reload 2.0

Today was my first try of a product that I have been keen to try since it was announced late in 2022, Carpro Reload 2.0.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40406212149337

image

Carpro Reload was one of the original spray ceramic sealants and offered ceramic coating-like gloss, slickness and water behavior. Reload was designed as a protective layer for freshly applied coatings and as a maintenance product to extend the life of an existing coating. Over the years, despite a few minor updates, it's application and durability did come into question as newer and improved rivals emerged.

I used Reload as a stand-alone coating for a number of years, enjoying it's qualities and easy application. Keep in mind, my use of LSP's to that point had centered around paste or liquid waxes and sealants that really needed a certain degree of effort to apply. Durability was never an issue for me, mainly because of how my cars are used and stored, but also how simply reapplication was.

But, as the competition exploded, Carpro needed to update Reload to keep it relevant..............Reload 2.0 is the result, which was released in Australia mid February.

The main improvements centered around improving the application process and durability. Quoted longevity is up to 3-months on a daily driver, expect much longer on cars that are regularly topped with a drying aid. It can be applied to dry or damp surfaces, on paint, glass, un-painted plastic, rubber trim and wheels. Versatility is a big selling point then. I especially like the appearance Reload imparts on unpainted black plastic trims, subtle and rich.

Application of Reload 2.0 is simple; using two towels, prime the first towel with product and then apply a small amount directly to the paint, working section by section. Wipe with the damp towel, wait 30 seconds and then buff with the dry second towel. (I will note that I gave the car a wipe down with Eraser beforehand.)

image

From what I observed applying Reload 2.0 to my white Ranger, the newer version seemed to lack the somewhat streaky nature of the original and required far less buffing to perfect. The "glassy" gloss and slickness are Reloads hallmarks, as is the strong, although not unpleasant, chemical aroma.

Although this is not a final verdict on Reload 2.0, I still need to try it on a less forgiving colour, but I think the new version is sufficiently improved to warrant a second look. With two ceramic coated vehicles in circulation now, for me it's use will be greater than in the past couple of years.

On the last wash of the Escape I used Boostv2 as a drying aid, but applied it in the method mentioned earlier. Spray the towel, and then spray each panel with car still wet and wipe down. A super quick way to apply. Really happy with how it turned out.

How would Reload 2.0 compare? Is it something that can be used in the same manner?

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-02-2023, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

On the last wash of the Escape I used Boostv2 as a drying aid, but applied it in the method mentioned earlier. Spray the towel, and then spray each panel with car still wet and wipe down. A super quick way to apply. Really happy with how it turned out.

How would Reload 2.0 compare? Is it something that can be used in the same manner?

This is a really good question. Short answer, yes it can. To answer properly, first you need to consider the product progression.

Carpro's progression from weakest to strongest plays out like this -

ECH20 - This is a Si02/wax (yes, wax) blended product designed for use as a quick detailer or waterless wash. It offers the least amount of protection, meaning it can be used as often as needed for cleaning or as a drying aid.

EliXir - This product is a blend of both Reload (V1) and ECH20, creating a quick detailer that offers more protection and gloss than ECH20 on it's own. Longevity is weeks, not days. As such, it can be used as a maintenance product, quick detailer, drying aid and short term base layer.

Reload - This Si02 product offers months rather than weeks protection, offering more gloss, slickness and water repellency. It is a strong as you will get before going to a traditional/full on ceramic coating.

Cquartz Ceramic Coatings - These offer anywhere from 6 to 12 to 36 months protection and have a higher pH and chemical tolerances.

So, having explained that, using Reload too often would become a bit too much. Hence why it's described as a 6-month maintenance product for coatings, or a 3 month coating in it's own right.

Similar story to the NV range -

Boost v1 - This offers short term gloss and protection until the next wash, where soap removes it. Use as often as you like. (I'm pretty sure they will phase this product out at some stage.)

Boost v2 - This offers more gloss, more protection for longer; longevity for up to 3 - 6 months. Use often as a drying aid or quick detailer.

Lustre/Jet - These would be similar in concept to Reload. Use at longer intervals.

Nova EVO - This is the full-strength ceramic coating with 3-year durability.

What I am getting at here is to pick your mark and use the product level suited to what the car needs. As in, dont apply Reload or Jet at each weekly wash.

Oh, and I learnt something typing this reply, NV Nova EVO is actually a graphene infused coating...............

"Nova EVO is a Sio2 and graphene infused coating. This professional grade hybrid coating was created in the quest for a paint protective solution that incurred no compromise. The revolutionary coating boasts extreme levels of elemental protection & chemical resistance. Nova EVO can help mitigate light swirling & scratching through its unique friction eliminating surface structure. While Nova EVO creates a hardened sacrificial layer, this is not the underlying factor that helps mitigate swirls which a lot of companies misconstrue. With the addition of diamond powder the coating has a much stronger bond to the surface, also allowing it to last up to 3 years!"

prydey · 21-02-2023, 08:31 PM

Lustre /Jet combo has pretty good longevity. I can't recall exactly when I applied it to the territory (I posted pics on here but can't be bothered looking back through) but it would be getting toward the 6 month mark I reckon, and it still looks great and the water repellent properties are still very good. Water still beads nicely in the rain or when I wash it. It's a daily driver too.

Getting back to the topic of drying aids and using products that are also a protective coating in their own right, are you saying not to use them every wash or just use less? So like I mentioned, last wash of the escape I basically applied boostv2 to the car before drying and then dried it off. So next wash, just dry with a plain towel or just apply a small amount to the towel only?

Sorry, hard to keep up with so many different products doing similar jobs.

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-02-2023, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Lustre /Jet combo has pretty good longevity. I can't recall exactly when I applied it to the territory (I posted pics on here but can't be bothered looking back through) but it would be getting toward the 6 month mark I reckon, and it still looks great and the water repellent properties are still very good. Water still beads nicely in the rain or when I wash it. It's a daily driver too.

Getting back to the topic of drying aids and using products that are also a protective coating in their own right, are you saying not to use them every wash or just use less? So like I mentioned, last wash of the escape I basically applied boostv2 to the car before drying and then dried it off. So next wash, just dry with a plain towel or just apply a small amount to the towel only?

Sorry, hard to keep up with so many different products doing similar jobs.

Most people use a "protective" drying aid at each wash, and that is mostly fine. There is some suggestion that continuous or heavy use of these products can lead to streaking and difficult applications.

In theory, it could be beneficial to alternate with, say Boost v2 and Bowden's Boss Gloss. But...................I have never had issues with regular use of say, Bead Maker or OG Drying Aid. I guess my point earlier was about overusing the stronger products like Reload and Jet.

The key thing is, if you like what you are using and getting the results you want, they just keep at it.

prydey · 21-02-2023, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

The key thing is, if you like what you are using and getting the results you want, they just keep at it.

Yeah, good idea, except someone on here keeps doing new product reviews and then I get tempted

Mr Brooksy · 22-02-2023, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Can I ask what light polishing compound you used?

Mother's 83432

**DFB FGXR6** · 22-02-2023, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Brooksy

Mother's 83432

In that case, if the water spot removers or vinegar don't work, then spot treating areas with the heavier cutting compound may be required.

**DFB FGXR6** · 22-02-2023, 08:00 PM

Always fun to arrive home after a long day to find a package had arrived............

This order is from Autobuff, a company I don't buy from much but really enjoy the user-friendly webstore. There was only one item I was really wanting, more on that in a second.

First, a new favorite of mine, these hex-grip style tyre dressing applicators. While they cost more than the red or yellow backed slim-line applicators, these offer a more ergonomic grip and a firmer foam texture for durability. These come in flat or "wave" variations, the wave version pictured gets the nod because it looks better.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/aut...d0362dde&_ss=r

Continuing my P&S lovefest, I decided to try their Bug-Off insect remover and the mint scented Epic Waterless Wash.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...ac6e7a65&_ss=r
https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...fd81fb66&_ss=r

I have only used one Gtechniq product to date, so continuing my tyre dressing fetish, T2 has been added to my collection.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/gte...c8f5a0b8&_ss=r

And finally, to the main event. Like most of my purchases, there is a story behind it.

The PP1 wheels on my Mustang drove me to the brink of insanity trying to find the right tools to make cleaning them easy and efficient. Ultimately, I gave up and bought new wheels, but old habits die hard!

While I had brushes for the barrels, finding the right wash mitt for the wheel face and spokes was a more difficult task.

First, I used a microfiber noodle brick and a TRC Eagle Applicator sponge, but they didn't cut it....................

I tried this hideous green monstrosity, but I found it cumbersome to put on and take off.................

These Gyeon microfiber applicator finger mitts sounded promising, but ultimately too small to effective...............

All of this was going on while I knew what I wanted existed, but it was not freely available in Australia. I eventually imported these lambs wool finger mitts from Obsessed Garage, and as I expected, these were exactly what I wanted in terms of size, ergonomics and effectiveness. They are very use-case specific, but absolutely brilliant.

But, as you would expect, these were very expensive by the time you factor in shipping. A cheaper alternative would be great, and I was excited to see Maxshine launched a microfiber version of their own, easily accessible from Australian suppliers.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/max...sh-mitt-2-pack

These are more durable than the lambs wool Flexipad mitts, but...........well..........they are just not as good. They have a habit of trapping and holding contaminants, which is obviously not ideal.

With all that explained, we arrive at The Rag Company filling a hole in their range; a small finger mitt designed with wheels in mind, the Cyclone Ultra Wheel Mitt.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/trc...t&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.detailstore.com.au/colle...el-mitt-2-pack
https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...ra-wheel-mitt/

Like all TRC microfiber, these mitts are butter soft and, if other TRC items are the gauge, should be very durable as well. These mitts are larger than the Flexipad wool items, so it will be interesting to see how that translates into use. And at half the price including shipping, they are great value too.

Finally, an odd freebie inclusion, a pair of Gtechniq branded sunglasses.

**GasoLane** · 22-02-2023, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Finally, an odd freebie inclusion, a pair of Gtechniq branded sunglasses.

image

Throw them in the bin, they won't do your eyes any favours.

Mr Brooksy · 23-02-2023, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In that case, if the water spot removers or vinegar don't work, then spot treating areas with the heavier cutting compound may be required.

Vingar/water 1:1, 2:1 and straight made no difference. I will see if I can get the water spot remover and give it a go.

Thanks again.