Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[willo56]

Originally Posted by stannoplan

I have a love hate relationship with rubbers and plastic.

Firstly give it a good clean, IPA or APC.

For the interior plastic I like 303 Aerospace or Perl, both great products. For interior rubbers both will work, if they are a bit old I have been using the Gummi Pflege (look it up, amazing ****).

For the outside plastics that are faded I have success with Solution Finish or Cerakote Trim wipes for the plastics and maybe the 303 as a topper. The Cerakote is amazing for black plastic, they quote 200 washes, it looks great.

For the exterior rubbers i have struggled for years to get anything to keep them nice for more than a month. I use Solution finish if really bad then a sealant (Scholl W6 Black or last week I used some leftover Turtle Wax Flex Wax, Lustre or Bead Machine has worked before) came up great.

I think I am a little overboard and these products are not cheap, 303 Interior Exterior would be great for everything.

After trying many different products , 303 Protectant was the only stuff I found that kept the Ute tonneau looking nice n shiny for more than a few days but its a bit steep at 30 bucks for a 473ml bottle

Fwiw Bunnings sells some no name brand protectant that does roughly the same result for a lot less - 13 bucks or so for a litre and works on interior and exterior rubbers and plastics
https://www.bunnings.com.au/mechanix...ctant_p4470447

[CyberWasp]

The tonneau is the hardest item to get a product for.
I am all for finding cheaper products that do the job for an area like that.
So my question about the Mechanix is does it leach off residue onto the paint work on the sides of the car if it gets wet in the days after applying?
Not sure if you have used it in that application, but apart from durability that is the biggest problem in finding a product for that job.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

The tonneau is the hardest item to get a product for.
I am all for finding cheaper products that do the job for an area like that.
So my question about the Mechanix is does it leach off residue onto the paint work on the sides of the car if it gets wet in the days after applying?
Not sure if you have used it in that application, but apart from durability that is the biggest problem in finding a product for that job.

Can almost guarantee that it will.

On the subject of the discoloration on Ranger and Everest rubber window trims, a trim dressing will not improve the situation, even temporarily. I have tried a number of options, including 303 Protectant, Carpro Perl, various Si02 spray sealants and even Carpro DLUX. Nothing made an improvement like all of these products would on other rubber/plastic surfaces. I have not tried Solution Finish, but maybe I should.

The only real solution would be to replace them with brand new parts, but the same thing will happen. Seems to take about 3 years to show up.

[willo56]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

The tonneau is the hardest item to get a product for.
I am all for finding cheaper products that do the job for an area like that.
So my question about the Mechanix is does it leach off residue onto the paint work on the sides of the car if it gets wet in the days after applying?
Not sure if you have used it in that application, but apart from durability that is the biggest problem in finding a product for that job.

I've not noticed it affecting the paint in any way yet but when i wash the car and run the hose over the tonneau it produces a milky wash where when its been treated with 303 it beads instead - not sure it means anything but ill keep an eye out from now on

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Can almost guarantee that it will.

On the subject of the discoloration on Ranger and Everest rubber window trims, a trim dressing will not improve the situation, even temporarily. I have tried a number of options, including 303 Protectant, Carpro Perl, various Si02 spray sealants and even Carpro DLUX. Nothing made an improvement like all of these products would on other rubber/plastic surfaces. I have not tried Solution Finish, but maybe I should.

The only real solution would be to replace them with brand new parts, but the same thing will happen. Seems to take about 3 years to show up.

yep this is my experience - nothing works long term that I've tried so far on faded trim - only repainting or new parts

On another note, what's the consensus on products like Chemical Guys White light or Maguire's White Wax for white paint...anyone tried it or similar products?
https://www.chemicalguys.com/white-l...ght-glaze.html
https://www.amazon.com.au/Meguiars-G.../dp/B009OBW23O

I worked over the ute today with Maguire's ultimate liquid wax that I used to polish my nitro blue falcon with but it doesn't seem to really pop the same with white paint..(and im not sure its worth 85-90 bucks a bottle either lol)

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by willo56

On another note, what's the consensus on products like Chemical Guys White light or Maguire's White Wax for white paint...anyone tried it or similar products?
https://www.chemicalguys.com/white-l...ght-glaze.html
https://www.amazon.com.au/Meguiars-G.../dp/B009OBW23O

I worked over the ute today with Maguire's ultimate liquid wax that I used to polish my nitro blue falcon with but it doesn't seem to really pop the same with white paint..(and im not sure its worth 85-90 bucks a bottle either lol)

Firstly, no, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is not worth $90! You could nearly buy a ceramic coating for that money, and it would last longer too.

Flat white can be very hard to make pop. Because of the strong metallic in Nitro, it will offer more pop with less effort.

Both the Chemical Guys and Megs "white" products are "cleaner wax's", meaning they mostly fill and hide imperfections. As a quick one step product, they would be worth a try, just don't expect great longevity. I do think you could do better, and for less money.

I use Collinite 845 on my flat white Ranger, a product that will offer more durability and a extremely glossy appearance. A bottle of this will last you a decade!

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=641817185







For something a little easier to apply, Carpro Reload 2.0 offers a stark, glossy appearance and exceptional slickness. It won't last forever, about 2 to 3 months, but reapplication is very simple.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40406212149337
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476132999257

[anobserver]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Just a quick one on leather cleaning. This is from a seat that by all accounts is "clean" I knew it wasn't but just want to show on here how filth leather can be, even though it looks clean. This is only on the bolster, the centre sections were even worse. I didn't have strong leather cleaner on hand so did two passes with the mild.

Before
image

I generally use Colourlock leather cleaner with a brush
image

image

That is all the filth from just that bolster with one clean
image

You can see the difference in how the bolster is now a nice matt finish compared to the filthy centre section
image

Hey deb,

Would these products be ok for the simulated leather now appearing in some cars?

Thanks,

[GO FURTHER]

Originally Posted by willo56

On another note, what's the consensus on products like Chemical Guys White light or Maguire's White Wax for white paint...anyone tried it or similar products?
https://www.chemicalguys.com/white-l...ght-glaze.html
https://www.amazon.com.au/Meguiars-G.../dp/B009OBW23O

I worked over the ute today with Maguire's ultimate liquid wax that I used to polish my nitro blue falcon with but it doesn't seem to really pop the same with white paint..(and im not sure its worth 85-90 bucks a bottle either lol)

Having owned a white Mustang and now a white Outlander, the key to making a white car "pop", is to ensure that everything else on the exterior of the car is detailed and looking its best.

That includes all the black trim, wheels and tyres.

The blacker you make the black plastic parts and tyres... The higher the perceived visual contrast difference there is to the white paint... And that along with waxing or sealing the paintwork will give you that magical "pop".

For the paintwork on my white Outlander, I made it really pop by coating it with Gyeon Can Coat, topping it up with Gyeon Wetcoat (an incredible product for adding gloss to ceramic coatings) and washing it regularly with Gyeon Bathe.

I no longer use any waxes on my cars... It is such 1960's technology in comparison to modern sealants and ceramic coatings, and although waxes give you that renowned "warm glow"... They simply do not last that long.

Using waxes in 2023 is like using a Nokia 5110 from 1998 versus an iPhone 14 using modern sealants.

If you take a look at the photo DFB FGXR6 posted earlier on his Ranger, in your reply to you, you will notice how well the white paint "pops" because all his black trim, wheels and tyres are fully detailed as well.

Now, picture that same Ranger without the trim detailing, and it would not "pop" as much as it does.

[anobserver]

Originally Posted by GO FURTHER

Having owned a white Mustang and now a white Outlander, the key to making a white car "pop", is to ensure that everything else on the exterior of the car is detailed and looking its best.

That includes all the black trim, wheels and tyres.

The blacker you make the black plastic parts and tyres... The higher the perceived visual contrast difference there is to the white paint... And that along with waxing or sealing the paintwork will give you that magical "pop"....

....If you take a look at the photo DFB FGXR6 posted earlier on his Ranger, in your reply to you, you will notice how well the white paint "pops" because all his black trim, wheels and tyres are fully detailed as well.

Now, picture that same Ranger without the trim detailing, and it would not "pop" as much as it does.

Funny you should mention that. Cleaned the dust off the tyres this morning, blackened them with some meguries endurance, then wiped the rims down (they weren't that dirty) with some Boss Gloss.

(And yes, I might have run over the rest of the car with the same detail spray as well...).

Much better.

Sorry dbf, no pics.

[GO FURTHER]

Originally Posted by anobserver

Funny you should mention that. Cleaned the dust off the tyres this morning, blackened them with some meguries endurance, then wiped the rims down (they weren't that dirty) with some Boss Gloss.

(And yes, I might have run over the rest of the car with the same detail spray as well...).

Much better.

Sorry dbf, no pics.

To me... A car is not clean and detailed until the whole car is detailed... And that includes the tyres.

It's like jumping in the shower and washing your body but not your feet, being the third dirtiest part of your body... Never understood the laziness of many humans (excused if you are an old fart and have a bad back and can't bend down).

[willo56]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Firstly, no, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is not worth $90! You could nearly buy a ceramic coating for that money, and it would last longer too.

Flat white can be very hard to make pop. Because of the strong metallic in Nitro, it will offer more pop with less effort.

Both the Chemical Guys and Megs "white" products are "cleaner wax's", meaning they mostly fill and hide imperfections. As a quick one step product, they would be worth a try, just don't expect great longevity. I do think you could do better, and for less money.

I use Collinite 845 on my flat white Ranger, a product that will offer more durability and a extremely glossy appearance. A bottle of this will last you a decade!

For something a little easier to apply, Carpro Reload 2.0 offers a stark, glossy appearance and exceptional slickness. It won't last forever, about 2 to 3 months, but reapplication is very simple.

Thanks for the reply- will experiment with the Collinite product

Interesting about cleaner wax as i didn't know that was thing

Originally Posted by GO FURTHER

Having owned a white Mustang and now a white Outlander, the key to making a white car "pop", is to ensure that everything else on the exterior of the car is detailed and looking its best.

That includes all the black trim, wheels and tyres.

The blacker you make the black plastic parts and tyres... The higher the perceived visual contrast difference there is to the white paint... And that along with waxing or sealing the paintwork will give you that magical "pop".

For the paintwork on my white Outlander, I made it really pop by coating it with Gyeon Can Coat, topping it up with Gyeon Wetcoat (an incredible product for adding gloss to ceramic coatings) and washing it regularly with Gyeon Bathe.

I no longer use any waxes on my cars... It is such 1960's technology in comparison to modern sealants and ceramic coatings, and although waxes give you that renowned "warm glow"... They simply do not last that long.

Using waxes in 2023 is like using a Nokia 5110 from 1998 versus an iPhone 14 using modern sealants.

If you take a look at the photo DFB FGXR6 posted earlier on his Ranger, in your reply to you, you will notice how well the white paint "pops" because all his black trim, wheels and tyres are fully detailed as well.

Now, picture that same Ranger without the trim detailing, and it would not "pop" as much as it does.

hey i miss my old nokia 5110

Yes i think you are right that its all about contrasts with light coloured cars - white with black wheels and trim being the most common and in my case a black tonneau also - whereas with the blue falcon it as all about getting that mirror wet look

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by GO FURTHER

To me... A car is not clean and detailed until the whole car is detailed... And that includes the tyres.

It's like jumping in the shower and washing your body but not your feet, being the third dirtiest part of your body... Never understood the laziness of many humans (excused if you are an old fart and have a bad back and can't bend down).

I have that same sentiment towards exhaust tips.

Think of it this way, you went to all the effort to clean everything else but decided or forgot to clean the exhaust tips, which is such a shame as it really drags an otherwise clean car down.

[FTE217]

I have OCD if I forgot cleaning the zorst tips.

OK those dam waxit email special reminders always get me lol......

More PERL, you can never run out of it.
Bought cheap Finesse Spritz for the heck, use it on the wifes and the kids can use for their bombs lol....
Purify got a big job on the sons black hilux getting it back to the nick when it was my daily.
Nv ceramic coating for my babies.
Carpro Detailing brush set, always need more brushs.
Free delivery.

Now to make the time but looking forward to giving the TLC to the fleet.

[stannoplan]

Originally Posted by FTE217

I have OCD if I forgot cleaning the zorst tips.

OK those dam waxit email special reminders always get me lol......

More PERL, you can never run out of it.
Bought cheap Finesse Spritz for the heck, use it on the wifes and the kids can use for their bombs lol....
Purify got a big job on the sons black hilux getting it back to the nick when it was my daily.
Nv ceramic coating for my babies.
Carpro Detailing brush set, always need more brushs.
Free delivery.

Now to make the time but looking forward to giving the TLC to the fleet.

The click frenzy emails this last week got me so tempted. The only thing I really want to try is Darkside, does anyone have any real world feedback? I am using Mirch Obsidian which I am really liking.

I would have bitten to the emails but I just placed an order the day before at Detailing Shed for some Rag Company wash pads and a Gauntlet, plus going to try some P+S Bead Maker after DFB's praise and photos of it.

[FTE217]

haha, yer I'm sure I'm not alone.
Gawd knows how much DFB invests lol, I do enough and in some case's like he you get disappointed never to use X again and keep buying more.
My shelves are pretty full, he needs a warehouse the way he's going.

Darkside being CarPro I expect its good,wouldn't PERL work as well ? one thing I've learnt from my use is NV and CarPro I seem to get satisfied by the results.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by stannoplan

The click frenzy emails this last week got me so tempted. The only thing I really want to try is Darkside, does anyone have any real world feedback? I am using Mirch Obsidian which I am really liking.

I would have bitten to the emails but I just placed an order the day before at Detailing Shed for some Rag Company wash pads and a Gauntlet, plus going to try some P+S Bead Maker after DFB's praise and photos of it.

For Darkside, it's considered a tyre "sealant" and not a "dressing", as such it's supposed to last longer. Carpro suggest "up to 3 months". Ignore that!

I have found that it will still be noticeably present after a month, but understandably not at its best. At which point, give the tyres a light clean and reapply. Also be mindful of it being more solvent based and can therefore sling if overapplied.

Application is not as silky smooth as Perl or Onyx, its oilier nature means you need to work it into the tyre more aggressively. You would ideally wipe the tyre down after 15-20min to level it down. It does, however, produce one of the "darkest" finishes going.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

haha, yer I'm sure I'm not alone.
Gawd knows how much DFB invests lol, I do enough and in some case's like he you get disappointed never to use X again and keep buying more.
My shelves are pretty full, he needs a warehouse the way he's going.

Darkside being CarPro I expect its good,wouldn't PERL work as well ? one thing I've learnt from my use is NV and CarPro I seem to get satisfied by the results.

Are you suggesting that I sleep around with regard to detailing products?

Darkside is solvent based and is considered a "sealant".

Perl is water based and is considered a "dressing".

Both are great products and have earned their continued place in my garage. Perl is easier to apply, and adjustable to taste. Darkside is longer lasting and delivers a deeper, darker finish. I favor Perl due to the fact I dress tyres after each wash and prefer the application feel.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

For Darkside, it's considered a tyre "sealant" and not a "dressing", as such it's supposed to last longer. Carpro suggest "up to 3 months". Ignore that!

I have found that it will still be noticeably present after a month, but understandably not at its best. At which point, give the tyres a light clean and reapply. Also be mindful of it being more solvent based and can therefore sling if overapplied.

Wonder if that would be suitable for truck tyres, being solvent based. The water base stuff tends to disappear after a couple of days.

Once I was quite happy to use Kitten tyre black but that's just a watered down mess now not worthy of my tyres.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Wonder if that would be suitable for truck tyres, being solvent based. The water base stuff tends to disappear after a couple of days.

It should be. They make plenty of noise about it being hydrophobic, so it doesn't just wash off in the rain.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

It should be. They make plenty of noise about it being hydrophobic, so it doesn't just wash off in the rain.

Not sticky ?? Some are so sticky every bit of dust will stick to the sidewall giving you brown tyres coming off the mildest dirt road.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Not sticky ?? Some are so sticky every bit of dust will stick to the sidewall giving you brown tyres coming off the mildest dirt road.

Yeah, its a bit sticky when its going on, but does dry pretty well. Not the horribleness of something like Meguiar's Endurance (sorry) though.

[FTE217]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Are you suggesting that I sleep around with regard to detailing products?

Darkside is solvent based and is considered a "sealant".

Perl is water based and is considered a "dressing".

Both are great products and have earned their continued place in my garage. Perl is easier to apply, and adjustable to taste. Darkside is longer lasting and delivers a deeper, darker finish. I favor Perl due to the fact I dress tyres after each wash and prefer the application feel.

hehe, a tart ? lol your mind astrays makes me wonder haha

Interesting your mention of both products sealant to dressing.
I was going to try Solution Finish Restorer ( for my grills/plastics etc) and talking with them online I asked how long will it last if caught in rain for eg, they said the perl would be best with that up to 3mths.
I did find that curious being as you say - I get perl because it can be used on alot as you knw and good product.
Anyway I'll be doing the all the FGX grills with Perl applying with a brush.
It hardly ever gets out and definately no rain so it will last a couple of washs I hope lol....

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

hehe, a tart ? lol your mind astrays makes me wonder haha

Interesting your mention of both products sealant to dressing.
I was going to try Solution Finish Restorer ( for my grills/plastics etc) and talking with them online I asked how long will it last if caught in rain for eg, they said the perl would be best with that up to 3mths.
I did find that curious being as you say - I get perl because it can be used on alot as you knw and good product.
Anyway I'll be doing the all the FGX grills with Perl applying with a brush.
It hardly ever gets out and definately no rain so it will last a couple of washs I hope lol....

That's really odd recommendations.

Perl is a surface dressing only. In your case, it will probably last the three months.

Solution Finish is said to last 12+ months, and in your case, probably two years. It penetrates and then bonds to the plastic its applied to. You can then dress it with trim dressings if you want, in fact Solution Finish also sell a product that does just that, Over the Top.

To be honest, I would just use Perl or 303 on the Sprint grills. Easy to use and probably a good in terms of preservation for the car going further.

[FTE217]

agreed - I was surprised.
As said you can never have enough Perl hence grabbing it but I did want to try SFR but now how you describe it glad I swayed.
So SFR (saves typing much) has a similar principle as dLux I guess, bonds on for longer time.
I screwed up applying dlux, too much on didn't rub down excess I guess and maybe wasn't dried enough by the time the wife used her car next day, haha glad its her car she doesn't notice anything but I do.
It looks woeful lol.....

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

It should be. They make plenty of noise about it being hydrophobic, so it doesn't just wash off in the rain.

Any good for protecting a raw finish XF bumpers. Sorry forgot to ask.

[FTE217]

sorry to bring this up but I'll blame roKKKKKK
Good ol Kitten Tyre Black, oh the simple days - get paint brush slop it on !
Back in the days of real thick paint on our Falcons, acrylic's etc haha
Good ol Kitten cut and polish no2 - garanteed to rub out 5 layers a time lol......
Your polishing cloth's were the colour of your car lol - you'd go how good does this look hehe

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

agreed - I was surprised.
As said you can never have enough Perl hence grabbing it but I did want to try SFR but now how you describe it glad I swayed.
So SFR (saves typing much) has a similar principle as dLux I guess, bonds on for longer time.
I screwed up applying dlux, too much on didn't rub down excess I guess and maybe wasn't dried enough by the time the wife used her car next day, haha glad its her car she doesn't notice anything but I do.
It looks woeful lol.....

It's a very different chemical formulation and is not a ceramic. But yes, it does last much longer. Reapplication of the Solution Finish is easier too.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Any good for protecting a raw finish XF bumpers. Sorry forgot to ask.

In this case, you would use Perl over Darkside. However, Solution Finish would be much better suited for this as it will restore the finish rather than just disguising the damage. It also won't leach onto the paint when it gets wet or washed.

If the trim is already in good condition, then I would maintain them with Perl on a semi-regular basis.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/solution-finish

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In this case, you would use Perl over Darkside. However, Solution Finish would be much better suited for this as it will restore the finish rather than just disguising the damage. It also won't leach onto the paint when it gets wet or washed.

If the trim is already in good condition, then I would maintain them with Perl on a semi-regular basis.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/solution-finish

Thanks I just want to protect it for now, thought about painting it body colour but....meh, I think it looks better original.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Thanks I just want to protect it for now, thought about painting it body colour but....meh, I think it looks better original.

image

I like them unpainted.

If you did go with Solution Finish, you would use the Fusion Grey version.

Otherwise, I would use Carpro Perl or 303 Protectant (which is available at Repco/Supercheap ect), or even Koch Chemie PSS (which is probably the longer lasting of these three).

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397
https://www.repco.com.au/brands/303/...3?kwSearch=303
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ddea2c64&_ss=r

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I like them unpainted.

If you did go with Solution Finish, you would use the Fusion Grey version.

Otherwise, I would use Carpro Perl or 303 Protectant (which is available at Repco/Supercheap ect), or even Koch Chemie PSS (which is probably the longer lasting of these three).

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397
https://www.repco.com.au/brands/303/...3?kwSearch=303
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ddea2c64&_ss=r

Thanks so much, just don't want it to look to shiny, tyres I don't mind.