New to cycling

[geckoGT]

Hey Rob, you have a KOM on Strava.
https://www.strava.com/segments/11190105

I need to fix that

[prydey]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Hey Rob, you have a KOM on Strava.
https://www.strava.com/segments/11190105

I need to fix that

You will smash it without even trying. i didn't even know that segment existed and i'm in a class of 1. i don't remember seeing it when i uploaded the ride, as i was looking for the long segments and thought the longest one was about 26km.

well, there you go. hardly a KOM when you're the only person on the list

i thought you were talking about this one
https://www.strava.com/segments/8670037

[NTF6]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

I wonder what pressure he runs. Lower pressures make the tyre more prone to punctures both from pinch flats and also sharp objects. Pinch flats for obvious reasons and most people know this. The sharp objects is because an items rarely punctures on the first time it contacts the tyre. The puncture normally occurs on the second or third time around as the contact with the ground drives it further through the casing. The harder the tyre the less likely it is to get stuck into the tyre in the first place. The softer the tyre the easier it is for items to embed into the tyre.



One of the reasons I religiously check my tyre pressures with a good track pump before every ride.

I would tend to disagree, it's like having hard tyres on a 4x4 when you go bush. If irresistible force meets immovable object then you're bound to get a flat. Running lower pressures allows the tyre to be flexible when encountering objects that would normally puncture the tyre. I run a tubeless downhill front tyre and it never goes over 18 psi. My rear sits at 23 psi and I ride some of the most puncture prone areas available and I don't get any flats ever on 30k rides.

[mik]

Originally Posted by NTF6

I would tend to disagree, it's like having hard tyres on a 4x4 when you go bush. If irresistible force meets immovable object then you're bound to get a flat. Running lower pressures allows the tyre to be flexible when encountering objects that would normally puncture the tyre. I run a tubeless downhill front tyre and it never goes over 18 psi. My rear sits at 23 psi and I ride some of the most puncture prone areas available and I don't get any flats ever on 30k rides.

do you run the anti puncture goop ?

[NTF6]

Yep, Stans

[Captain Stubing]

Originally Posted by prydey

i thought you were talking about this one
https://www.strava.com/segments/8670037

What a small world, I know the No.3 on that segment, and one of the No.4's!

[Whitey-AMG]

March gran fondo yesterday and couldnt resist a snap under the bridge just as you get off the kew boulevard down the steps....

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by NTF6

Yep, Stans

And that is why you don't get punctures.

To really get the full picture I would have to know what type of punctures he is getting. If they a pinch flats then pressure is definitely the problem, if they are foreign bodies then pressure may contribute.

Tyre pressure

Checking tyre pressure should be part of your pre-ride routine using a track pump with an accurate pressure gauge. Tyres will have a recommended inflation range printed on the sidewalls but don’t just pump them up to the maximum. Correct pressure is dependent on rider weight and road or trail conditions. You will need to experiment and seek advice to find what pressure works best for you.

As most of your weight goes over your rear wheel, it is normal to run it at a higher pressure than the front. An under-inflated tyre will be far more prone to pinch flats and thorn punctures but an over-inflated tyre is more likely to be damaged by sharp flints as it won’t deform around them. Mountain bikers and cyclocross racers are often forced to run very low pressures to maintain traction and, because of this, using tubular or tubeless tyres will negate the risk of pinch flats as there is no inner tube.

Isn't DJM83 referring to a road bike?

[NTF6]

Stans won't repair a 6mm hole, it comes down to the impact force. Tyres inflated over 35psi don't allow enough give on an impact. Stans is brilliant at repairing prickle punctures. Rock strike punctures are determined by your pressure. I'm talking tubeless only and not referring to pinch flats on tubes. As a crude example, blow a balloon up really hard a see how easy it is to burst via any method. Blow a balloon up with 1/3 the previous volume and see how difficult it is to puncture/rupture even with something sharp.

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by NTF6

Stans won't repair a 6mm hole, it comes down to the impact force. Tyres inflated over 35psi don't allow enough give on an impact. Stans is brilliant at repairing prickle punctures. Rock strike punctures are determined by your pressure. I'm talking tubeless only and not referring to pinch flats on tubes. As a crude example, blow a balloon up really hard a see how easy it is to burst via any method. Blow a balloon up with 1/3 the previous volume and see how difficult it is to puncture/rupture even with something sharp.

Very crude example as it does nothing to demonstrate differences in construction between tubeless and non tubeless tyres etc. Also very relevant to MTB but of little relevance to road. Was he on a road or MTB, I can not remember?

[NTF6]

It was MTB if I remember correctly.

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by NTF6

It was MTB if I remember correctly.

If that is the case then I am inclined to agree with you as MTB tyre construction is different to road and the hazards vary as well with a lot higher incidence of sharp rocks and other larger sharp items. I can see the relevance of tubeless tyres on a MTB, increased grip and tyre conforming to the ground better with no risk of pinch flats.

Road bikes encounter smaller sharp hazards that will tend to snap or crush against a hard tyre rather than partially embed in a softer tyre ready to work their way through on subsequent tyre rotations.

[Batmobile]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Damn good looking bike.

Agree . The standard in my opinion "if it looks fast standing still , it must be"

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Batmobile

Agree . The standard in my opinion "if it looks fast standing still , it must be"

Certainly makes mine look old and slow.

[Batmobile]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Certainly makes mine look old and slow.

Bite your tongue. How could you say that about your Eddy Merkx.?

[MAGPIE]

Cool training partner...

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=93a_1457216659

[prydey]

that's awesome, although i probably wouldn't be thinking that if i was one of the front two guys. hard to say whether it was 'chasing' or not.

[mik]

Impressive bird, imagine if he had his own bike .

[SumoDog68]

Originally Posted by GTpilot

Sorry dude - I have seen them in the flesh and ridden one. I have to disagree.
as for "brand names" being better, male bovine poo.

My daughter has a 24" specialized mountain bike. The more I look at it, the more garbage components I find, including the frame quality. The brakes I threw in the bin, didn't work properly. They would not compress or return evenly no amount of work on them could make it happen, by the shop ( a reputable name in Melbourne) or me, they were replaced under warranty, same issue. I've rebuilt both wheel hubs, and replaced the bottom bracket. I'm forever re-trueing the wheels and retentioning the spokes.
Her sisters Mongoose which was $100 cheaper (RRP) is far better quality, I've had to do nothing, only basic service work.
My Giant TCR Advanced, I've had several issues, both design and quailty wise. my cheap Chinese Azzurri Forza, good as gold.
Never judge a book by its cover.
You would be hard pressed to find anything with FULL 5800 series 105 groupset for under a grand. (Delivered, In your hands)
As for resale, I'm not sure about you but I would NEVER buy a second hand carbon bike. Not without a full frame ultrasound first, even if I know who owns it.

Reid is generic Chinese Alu frame kitted out with full shimano group set . Made by non cyclists for non cyclists. It is cheap for a reason . I haven't ridden this particular model but have seen their workmanship on their other product . Something like used CAAD would be a much better choice .
As for Specialized ( I don't own one ) - have a look at some of their more advanced offerings . They make some great bikes , unlike Reid.

[GTpilot]

Originally Posted by SumoDog68

Reid is generic Chinese Alu frame kitted out with full shimano group set . Made by non cyclists for non cyclists. It is cheap for a reason . I haven't ridden this particular model but have seen their workmanship on their other product . Something like used CAAD would be a much better choice .
As for Specialized ( I don't own one ) - have a look at some of their more advanced offerings . They make some great bikes , unlike Reid.

You are 100% correct about REID.
Actually chances are it's from Taiwan. Probably the same factory as my 9 yr olds MTB. But who's keeping track. For $900 with FULL 5800 series groupo, I challenge you to find anything better...brand new that is not made in china/Taiwan. Where 100% of the worlds aluminium bike frames are made.
This is not a conversation about 2nd hand bikes.
As for top end specialised or s-works yeah, news flash, they are made in Taiwan too.
You missed my point dude. We are talking sub 1k NEW bikes here.

[kazawaki]

You want to look at design and technology check out Treks new Madone,there is nothing like this on the market.Ried bikes are from china and are complete cheap bad handling bikes

[Boosted8]

A lot of stuff made in Taiwan is of excellent quality.

[GTpilot]

Originally Posted by kazawaki

You want to look at design and technology check out Treks new Madone,there is nothing like this on the market.Ried bikes are from china and are complete cheap bad handling bikes

: Oh - FFS! welcome to this thread!
may I suggest you go back a few pages and read the question that prompted my response.

Personally I would not buy one for me, but perhaps you may like to consider those people looking for a sub 1k (Brand new road) bike really don't know the difference in how a bike handles, and at this price point, they don't even care. They just want to get out and ride a few k's for fun. No HRM, no power meter, WTF is NP? They might say (can you explain NP.....without Googling it?) They really don't know what cadence is either ...and don't care!

It's a bit like someone asking for a decent car to drive to the train station and back each day, and suggesting they get a GT.

The original question was about a sub 1k road bike, thus, I mentioned the REID.
If you can suggest something better UNDER 1k. Go ahead. So far none has been able to.
A Trek Madone is not under 1k.
BTW, where is a Madone made?

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by GTpilot

: Oh - FFS! welcome to this thread!
may I suggest you go back a few pages and read the question that prompted my response.

Personally I would not buy one for me, but perhaps you may like to consider those people looking for a sub 1k (Brand new road) bike really don't know the difference in how a bike handles, and at this price point, they don't even care. They just want to get out and ride a few k's for fun. No HRM, no power meter, WTF is NP? They might say (can you explain NP.....without Googling it?) They really don't know what cadence is either ...and don't care!

It's a bit like someone asking for a decent car to drive to the train station and back each day, and suggesting they get a GT.

The original question was about a sub 1k road bike, thus, I mentioned the REID.
If you can suggest something better UNDER 1k. Go ahead. So far none has been able to.
A Trek Madone is not under 1k.
BTW, where is a Madone made?

These days any frame under $4k is definitely made in Taiwan and a large percentage of the $4-6k bracket is too.

I am also very cautious about suggesting anyone new to the sport by anything second hand. A complete novice picking a used bike with no warranty is a recipe for disaster. Bikes like the Reid are a good intro bike as long as you accept that you will want better if the cycling bug bites hard within the next couple of years.

The way I look at it is a novice buys a new bike for $1k and upgrades in 12 months, they sell the starter bike for $400 so their expense is $600. If they went out a bought a better bike with more longevity, for arguments sake a $3k bike. That bike will lose more than $600 in value in the first 12 months anyway. With that in perspective the $1k starter bike is not a bad idea.

[Batmobile]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

These days any frame under $4k is definitely made in Taiwan and a large percentage of the $4-6k bracket is too.

I am also very cautious about suggesting anyone new to the sport by anything second hand. A complete novice picking a used bike with no warranty is a recipe for disaster. Bikes like the Reid are a good intro bike as long as you accept that you will want better if the cycling bug bites hard within the next couple of years.

The way I look at it is a novice buys a new bike for $1k and upgrades in 12 months, they sell the starter bike for $400 so their expense is $600. If they went out a bought a better bike with more longevity, for arguments sake a $3k bike. That bike will lose more than $600 in value in the first 12 months anyway. With that in perspective the $1k starter bike is not a bad idea.

Agree . However , as it often the case with the lower entry level bikes you will find (often) the purchaser is sold a very poor fitted bike . So, although they are savings should the purchaser move on to a better fitting and yes more expensive bike , what i have found is if the purchaser buys wrong , very often it leads to lack of use and is then robbed of the opportunties and joy that comes from riding
I often say , do your research , talk to those that have travelled the journey and discuss with friends what they have done and what experiences they would not duplicate again given the opportunity
Too often first time purchasers are driven by the $ fail to under cycling is something you do on a inert item

[Whitey-AMG]

Originally Posted by Boosted8

A lot of stuff made in Taiwan is of excellent quality.

Yes it is.
For a while now there has been a quantum shift in the supply of high end bikes.
USA and Europe were offloading to Taiwan for the entry level stuff but keeping the high end manufacturing.
This is changing with Taiwan cementing itself as a centre of excellence for high end manufacturing in many industries.....and bespoke bikes is one of them.
An old article but a good one that explains some of the conundrums going on.


http://cyclingiq.com/2011/11/28/taiw...es-from-china/

Fwiw, my giant OCR composite was made in Taiwan and has been a loyal and faultless piece of engineering for many many years. I would actually seek out a bike made in Taiwan these days......

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Batmobile

Agree . However , as it often the case with the lower entry level bikes you will find (often) the purchaser is sold a very poor fitted bike . So, although they are savings should the purchaser move on to a better fitting and yes more expensive bike , what i have found is if the purchaser buys wrong , very often it leads to lack of use and is then robbed of the opportunties and joy that comes from riding
I often say , do your research , talk to those that have travelled the journey and discuss with friends what they have done and what experiences they would not duplicate again given the opportunity
Too often first time purchasers are driven by the $ fail to under cycling is something you do on a inert item

Agreed but a novice going to buy a $2k or $3k machine can end up in the same boat. It is not until you start to consider very serious machines that the effort is more widespread in fit out. In fact a person who is a complete novice looking for a second hand back is even more exposed to being sold a poorly fitting bike.

With a bit of research and help from knowledgeable friends (one that actually know what they are talking bout) a novice could buy that Reid and have a good starting out point. A stem and seat change later if required is not a big cost if some fine tuning is needed.

I have a machine with a retail worth over $10k and I have over 30 years of competitive cycling and triathlon experience and some would say there are fit issues with my bike.

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Bluey-GT

Yes it is.
For a while now there has been a quantum shift in the supply of high end bikes.
USA and Europe were offloading to Taiwan for the entry level stuff but keeping the high end manufacturing.
This is changing with Taiwan cementing itself as a centre of excellence for high end manufacturing in many industries.....and bespoke bikes is one of them.
An old article but a good one that explains some of the conundrums going on.


http://cyclingiq.com/2011/11/28/taiw...es-from-china/

Fwiw, my giant OCR composite was made in Taiwan and has been a loyal and faultless piece of engineering for many many years. I would actually seek out a bike made in Taiwan these days......

Well said. Some of the high end stuff that is still made in Europe is not without its problems. A good example is my Merckx. It is a 2008 1XM which is not top of the lineup but it is made entirely in Italy. I had a creaking bottom bracket which was found to to be the aluminium sleeve in the carbon bottom bracket shell had broken the bonding material and was moving. It was quite an expensive repair to fix that one.

[Batmobile]

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Agreed but a novice going to buy a $2k or $3k machine can end up in the same boat. It is not until you start to consider very serious machines that the effort is more widespread in fit out. In fact a person who is a complete novice looking for a second hand back is even more exposed to being sold a poorly fitting bike.

With a bit of research and help from knowledgeable friends (one that actually know what they are talking bout) a novice could buy that Reid and have a good starting out point. A stem and seat change later if required is not a big cost if some fine tuning is needed.

I have a machine with a retail worth over $10k and I have over 30 years of competitive cycling and triathlon experience and some would say there are fit issues with my bike.

Excellent point - all of which I agree . I guess in summary we are both saying 'research' and talk to the one's you can trust whom have travelled the often winding road of proper fit , before you buy . New , second hand , entry level or pro , above the price point the correct fitting and type of bike to suit your application should be paramount

[kazawaki]

Originally Posted by GTpilot

: Oh - FFS! welcome to this thread!
may I suggest you go back a few pages and read the question that prompted my response.

Personally I would not buy one for me, but perhaps you may like to consider those people looking for a sub 1k (Brand new road) bike really don't know the difference in how a bike handles, and at this price point, they don't even care. They just want to get out and ride a few k's for fun. No HRM, no power meter, WTF is NP? They might say (can you explain NP.....without Googling it?) They really don't know what cadence is either ...and don't care!

It's a bit like someone asking for a decent car to drive to the train station and back each day, and suggesting they get a GT.

The original question was about a sub 1k road bike, thus, I mentioned the REID.
If you can suggest something better UNDER 1k. Go ahead. So far none has been able to.
A Trek Madone is not under 1k.
BTW, where is a Madone made?

Ok I have a 58 cm Trek 1.2 in stock at $995.00.
Madone models are made in china , Taiwan and the USA Depending on the level of the carbon used,just for your info Trek have 5 levels of carbon frames .Yes I didn't read all the thread So my bad.If some people on this thread want some real life advise I have 39 years in the trade in all sections,bike specification, Mechanics,Wholesale and running a succesfull import company for 20 of those years as well as a fair stint in retail,you talk to anyone in the industry and they will know me but if you just want to sat FFS well good luck to you.